What have I bought? A 72 Blazer!

[rwhite692]

Thanks 1tuff71 I will let you know on the front and rear trusses. If I decide not to use them I will let you know. Ol Blue K20, same goes for the brush guard...

I should know in a couple weeks what I intend to do with all of this stuff...

[BLAZERMAN]

Looks like a fun project!! I would be interested in the folding steps if you decide to sell.

[madkmart]

Nice find and great start

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by rwhite692

Thanks 1tuff71 I will let you know on the front and rear trusses. If I decide not to use them I will let you know. Ol Blue K20, same goes for the brush guard...

I should know in a couple weeks what I intend to do with all of this stuff...

Sounds good to me.....

[rwhite692]

Found a pair of Utility Bucket Seats! Thanks to Brandon (Sacramento70) now they are off to the upholstery shop.

[Chulisohombre]

Looks like a good start. Already getting after it pretty good. If I still
Lived in Cali I'd come help ya break it in.

[rwhite692]

Got a couple of things done last weekend and over a couple late nights after putting the kids to bed... Didn't stop to take a whole lot of pics...Free time has been in short supply.

Headlight switch was fried, and high/low beam foot switch and wiring were all corroded to dust. Replaced the headlight switch, foot switch wiring pigtail, and foot switch, and shazam!, I now have headlights!

Rebuilt the rear brakes, made new hardlines, replaced wheel cylinders, pads, drums.

Since the old radiator was leaking and was banged up pretty bad, I decided to throw a cheap ebay aluminum radiator in. For $210 shipped, with the electric fans included, these are pretty hard to beat. The workmanship is not bad. I wouldn't go trying to cool 600HP with one, but for my mostly stock 400 SBC, it will be just fine.




I used a DERALE thermostatic electric fan controller, (On at 180/off at 165) which for $23 is a good deal.




Since the whole brake system is essentially new at this point, I decided to do the one-ton dual diaphragm brake booster and master cyl upgrade.

My truck had a (completely wrong) passenger car booster and bracket on it, installed by someone in the past in an effort to have power brakes.

After sourcing the one-ton booster and master as one unit (Cardone model 50-1007), I needed the correct firewall bracket.

Because I wanted to get going on this, I broke down and ordered the Tuff Stuff 4653B bracket from Summit for $76. I am very glad I did, this bracket and pushrod / clevises / adjuster is a high quality piece and is much more stout and less sloppy than the GM factory bracket, which can be hard to find, since a lot of folks selling used boosters don't want to separate it. The GM ones go for 50 bucks and up on ebay anyway.




After removing the old booster and master, I scrubbed off the black paint and gunk from that area of the firewall. I'll clean the remaining areas of the firewall at some later date. But it was nice seeing that burst of original orange.



Made up new hardlines for the master to prop valve connections (as the one-ton master's ports are the opposite of the half-ton)



Now that all of that is done, I just have to remove the master, bench bleed it, re-mount it, then can bleed the brakes.

Having brakes should make moving this truck around a bit less exciting!

That's about all for now.

[Chulisohombre]

You're doing a great job. Putting it together with quality parts.

[rwhite692]

Well since it is almost time to start driving this thing around, I needed to put tires on it. I decided to also replace the Western Bullet wheels since they are too wide (12").

I decided to run BFG KM2s in 35/12.5/15.

Since I intend to air down on trails, I decided to build up a set of beadlock wheels.

I bought 5 Summit "Soft-8" steelies in 15x8 and a set of weld-on beadlocks from Chassis Unlimited. (With the additional width because of the beadlock, it is like running about a 9" wide rim).

Since they are local to me, I was able to stop by Chassis Unlimited during my lunch hour and watch them cut my parts on their laser table:



First I had to prep the wheels by removing paint/powdercoat from the rim lip with a flap disc where the inner beadlock rings are to be welded:



Also stripped paint from the opposite side of the lip, since the paint/powdercoat smokes and stinks to high heaven when it burns



Then the inner ring is ready to weld in:





I welded in stages, about 5" of bead at a time, alternating to different sections of the wheel to keep things from getting too hot



Quick pass with the flap disc to remove any high spots or sharp points




Then welded on the anti-coning rings (these prevent the force of the bolts from bending the outer clamping ring into an inverted "cone" when they are torqued down) - followed by a little paint





Then muscled the inside bead of the wheel into the tire with the help of a pry bar and a little soapy water (easy) Then flipped it over and put in my dynamic balancing media (AKA 200g of competition grade airsoft pellets). Also added a little bit of 3M 5200 sealant in the bead clamping area for good measure (probably unnecessary)







Then started the fun part - installing the outer clamping ring and 32 bolts/washers/nylock nuts. Luckily for me, I was able to enlist a couple of handy helpers:





Then torqued and re-torqued all of the bolts to the recommended 18 ft.lbs





Then came the moment of truth - Airing up the tires and seating the inner side bead. Having never done this before, I was not sure what to expect. Turned out to be a no-drama exercise. After soaping up the inner bead of the tire and rim lip, I connected a ball air chuck with retainer clip to the valve stem, and while airing up, flipped the tire over and with just a little foot pressure on the rim center, the tire bead sealed to the rim, and began to inflate. After about 60 seconds, the inner bead seated with *POP* and that was that. It only takes about 8-10 psi in the tire to get the bead seated.

Aired up to 35 PSI and no leaks after a week, so I'm happy. These wheels are bomb-proof.

The truck is sitting low in front in these pics, due to the sagging front springs:













Next Project is a DIY4x4.com Shackle flip for the rear to get rid of the lift blocks, and installing new springs up front, along with a little fender trimming.

My seats are at a local upholstery shop getting a low-buck makeover, should have them back next week.

[rwhite692]

Local upholstery shop did a great job with the Utility Buckets, and the rear seat. He also upholstered the armrests for the rear seat and filled in the ashtray locations. I just need to paint the rear seat arms, and the metal seat backs for the front seats, clean up and paint the seat tracks...then bolt them in (after I get done fixing my rusty floor, LOL)...It will be nice to finally have seats, since I bought this truck with no seats in it!

[BLAZERMAN]

She's coming along nice! Tires and wheels made a big improvement and the seats sure don't look "low buck" to me, he did a Great job on them. Keep up the good work!!

And if you ever decide your going to use a different rear bumper I would be Real interested in buying that one from you.

[rwhite692]

Originally Posted by BLAZERMAN

She's coming along nice! Tires and wheels made a big improvement and the seats sure don't look "low buck" to me, he did a Great job on them. Keep up the good work!!

And if you ever decide your going to use a different rear bumper I would be Real interested in buying that one from you.

Hi Blazerman, Thanks for the kind words.

I will let you know, I do plan to build a new bumper at some point (need to incorporate a spare tire carrier)

[AHowe88]

Love this build. Awesome job on the wheels, and the seats came out great as well.

Really interested in seeing your rear suspension set up. I also have blocks that I need to get rid of.

Keep us updated and keep up the great work.

[Sacramento70]

Glad those seats went to a good home. The buckets look killer

[rwhite692]

Originally Posted by AHowe88

Love this build. Awesome job on the wheels, and the seats came out great as well.

Really interested in seeing your rear suspension set up. I also have blocks that I need to get rid of.

Keep us updated and keep up the great work.

Thanks!....for the rear, I got a shackle flip kit from DIY 4x4. These are some really well built pieces:

http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?rout...product_id=112

They will go on at the same time that my 14-bolt FF rearend swap happens, which is probably at least a few months out. I have the 14-bolt, and am collecting parts for it now (6-lug hub conversion from Solid Axle Industries, Discs, TMR Shave Kit, etc.)

This weekend I hope to get the front springs swapped out (I went with a pair of HD EZ-Rides from Tuff Country).

Not a whole lot of other stuff to report this week, I have been fixing a bunch of electrical issues which are mostly just fixing/undoing previous owner(s) hack jobs. At this point I have nearly everything working.

Next "big" thing to do is take the hardtop off and set it aside, so that I can take the roll bar/cage out... so I can fix the front floorpans and replace the rockers.

I scored a Bestop soft top off of craigslist, still new in the box, for $200, so that will go on after I get done with the floor repair work.

[orangek5]

Originally Posted by 1tuff71

Yea I know some guys do collect the old school stuff, funny thing is you don't see any trucks restored with this stuff on their trucks, so what's use in saving it. Sell it off and make a couple $$. I used to live in El Dorado Hills outside Sacto right down the road from the Rubicon. still have family there so coming to pick up the parts is no problem if you'd like to sell. My truck is a original Cal truck that I have been working on since 06' and I dig the tall old school look . BTW the truss is from GO RHINO. Thanks and good luck with your build and don't beat that classic too much on the rocks.

I got a set of go rhino for my axel trusses from a member for my rebuild I tried to get them chromed but our local chrome shop didn't want to do them (don't now why) so I had them powder coated and installed them on my truck.

[rwhite692]

Wheels and Tires that came on the truck are for sale, PM offers, anything reasonable will be considered. The tires are Radial Sidewinder Mud Terrain type in 33x12.5x15 and they hold air just fine. They have virtually no miles on them, but are dry-rotted, and badly in spots. These would be perfect if you have a project going, and just need some temporary rollers.

The wheels are Western Bullets and are 15x12 (tough to measure with the tires on). I don't have the center caps. They have metal valve stems in them. Located in Tracy CA and must be picked up.

[rwhite692]

Ran into a bunch of mixed news this week.

1. In the driveway, driving in a straight line, forward and back about 15 feet, I was experiencing driveline bind (tires chirping) with the front hubs locked and the transfer case in 4WD (hi or lo). Was beginning to suspect that there was something wrong with the NP205....

2. After getting done with replacing the front leaf springs, decided to verify that the gear ratios match, for the front and rear axles. ....They HAVE to be the same, right?

3. NOPE! Someone along the line thought it would be a great idea to have a 3.73 in the front D44, and a 3.07 in the 12bolt rear!

4. This news means that I am going to have to accelerate my 14-bolt rearend swap project. My intention had been to live with the existing setup for a while and then do a gear change to 4.10s, anyway.

5. So I turned my attention to the mystery 14bolt FF that I had picked up recently. I was able to buy it on the cheap because the seller couldn't be bothered to check gear ratio, what carrier it had, or if it had a locker in it, or not.

6. Popped off the cover last night and was blessed with some good news, it has 4.10s...

...and a Detroit Locker!






Then, after swapping in the 14, I will re-gear the D44 to 4.10 and add a locker to it.

All of this means it is going to probably take me another couple of months to get this truck driving the way it should, but it will be done right, and with no more "unknowns" in the driveline.

Previous owners....they never cease to amaze....

[Lieferson]

score on the axle! Looks to be a mean blazer in the making.

[Jdubs71]

"Sunroof (Damn why did they have to go and do that!)"
I asked that same question when I bought mine and its not the first time i've seen them. I guess having the top off was too much wind and with the top on was not enough. I found a guy that does decent fiberglass work.

[rwhite692]

Hi JDubs, yeah, I think the first thing I'm going to do (once I finish with the rearend transplant) is to take the top off, and install the soft top (Bestop). I was fortunate to find one locally, new in the box for $200 on craigslist.

Later on when I can get some time, I will do the glass work on the fiberglass top and hatch, which is also in really rough shape.

[rwhite692]

Well, I managed to get a few more things done.

Prepped the 14 Bolt. Removed perches and shock mounts since I am installing new RuffStuff spring pads and shock mounts.



Shaved the case and turned down the ring gear. I used a RuffStuff specialties cover and a TMR shave kit, to close up the case. TIG welded with Ni rod.

The bottom of the 14 diff now has more ground clearance than the original 12-bolt did.










After setting my pinion angle, Welded up my Spring pads, and Disc Brake Brackets (also from RuffStuff):






Also installed a pinion / ujoint guard on the 14BFF while I was at it (also from RuffStuff - It is made of 3/8" thick CR plate)



I used 6-lug conversion hubs from Solid Axle Industries, so that I could keep my six lug wheels. Had to turn down the axle flanges to match the hubs (took about .100" off the dia).






Then it was time to turn my attention to the front end.

I swapped out the ring and pinion in the D44 up front to re-gear to match the new rear axle (4.10). (Didn't bother to take any pics of that, it was no fun).

I also installed a Spartan locker, while I was in there.

Did a High Steer / Crossover steering conversion, using kit from Chassis Unlimited. (this required installing a 2WD steering box and drop pitman arm). This was an easy project and I would do it on ANY first gen GM. The steering improvement is very evident, even just tooling around at low speeds.











Luckily, I had some help to get all this work done....








So that's where things are right now. Have to replace the leaking valve cover gaskets, and get going on floor pan / rocker replacement, so I can put my seats in and really drive this thing around to shake it down and find/resolve more issues...

-Rob

[Chulisohombre]

Great work. Pretty much the same thing I did to Mine. Except I left it 8 lug and converted the front end. I was having problems breaking wheel studs so I figured going 8x9/16 couldn't hurt over the 1/2 ton junk. Plus I got the bigger outer bearing on the later style hub for the front.

[Chulisohombre]

If you stay with 4.10, All depends on what tires you stick to and how much highway driving you do. Mine with the 4 speed and 35s with 4.10 it's perfect.tires any bigger than that and I'd want 4.56 or more if you go bigger than 37-38 eventually.

[SeventyOne]

Love your build! How much did the upholstery run you? Looks great and I'll need to do the same in the future with my seats. I'm just over the hill from you in Castro Valley.