power steering conversion kit

[61hawk]

[quote=jibs;9142517]

Originally Posted by 61hawk

Why fab up something when a better solution is already available? I have a new P/S box (OEM not rebuilt) and I can tuck the pump away where it's not seen.

I like this idea, any pictures of the electric pump mounted?

Hopefully soon. I don't have any sheet metal on the front of my truck yet so I don't know exactly where I will be mounting it. I've seen Miata's tuck it behind the headlights, Mustangs install it in the trunk and engine compartment, the Studebaker page shows it in front driver's side wheel well. I'd think you'd want it close to the pump and battery so you don't have a mile of hose or cable. I'm hoping I can mount it up near the steering box... worst case scenario is I mount it on the frame behind the cab... there's all kinds of space there.

I got mine from Pull-A-Part for $35 for the pump and bracket (you want to grab that because it already has the rubber isolators and is basically a cradle for the pump.

[jibs]

[quote=61hawk;9142564]

Originally Posted by jibs

Hopefully soon. I don't have any sheet metal on the front of my truck yet so I don't know exactly where I will be mounting it. I've seen Miata's tuck it behind the headlights, Mustangs install it in the trunk and engine compartment, the Studebaker page shows it in front driver's side wheel well. I'd think you'd want it close to the pump and battery so you don't have a mile of hose or cable. I'm hoping I can mount it up near the steering box... worst case scenario is I mount it on the frame behind the cab... there's all kinds of space there.

I got mine from Pull-A-Part for $35 for the pump and bracket (you want to grab that because it already has the rubber isolators and is basically a cradle for the pump.

I think that would be the way I'm going too. I'll probably have to but the electric pump from ebay, no pull a parts close to me. I think the pump might fit between the grille & rad support, that is where I will try it first.

[jibs]

Anyone have one of these Volvo pumps that you can get the dimensions for me? Thanks

[61hawk]

Originally Posted by jibs

Anyone have one of these Volvo pumps that you can get the dimensions for me? Thanks

The factory mounting bracket is 8.5"x8.5".11". The actual pump is 11" tall. Mine has the remote fill tube, so you can make that as long as you need. The actual pump is 11" tall.

[bigmoe]

Not to preach but I don't generally buy "kits". Those who sell kits have usually just gathered up the separate components, marked it up and called it a kit. If you can figure what individual parts you need you'll be farther ahead to do it that way. Fortunately, with the internet and forums like this, others have already figured it out for you.

[Arne]

Other thoughts on "kits" - sometimes the kit may be discounted over the parts when purchased separately, rather than being marked up. But one should never assume that the kit is a better buy, always do the math and compare.

Another issue is that you need to be careful to make sure that the kit is actually suited to what you need. Case in point - the Unisteer full rack & pinion kit linked on the last page appears to have everything needed. But after checking with them, this kit as packaged only works for short water pump applications. Won't fit trucks like mine with later engine swaps. But the description on the web page does NOT mention that fact. So due diligence is still required.

[Arne]

FWIW - I've started to install the Performance Online rack & pinion kit on my '64 C10. There are a couple of caveats that people should know before buying it. While the rack and its bracket fits very well to the frame, the lower steering shaft U-joint won't clear standard Saginaw steering pumps. So something other than the normal choice is necessary. (I think I will be going with the Volvo electric pump in mine.)

Also, while I think the web description mentions steering column mods may be needed, it doesn't give any details. And neither do the instructions that come with the kit, as they seem to be a copy/paste of the 67-72 instructions. The original column needs to be cut off near the firewall, and the ¾" round shaft must be modified (ground flat on 2 sides) to convert it to a ¾" DD so that the U-joint can be fitted.

It's still a pretty good package, but it would have been nice to know the above up front.

[Arne]

Originally Posted by 61hawk

I got mine from Pull-A-Part for $35 for the pump and bracket (you want to grab that because it already has the rubber isolators and is basically a cradle for the pump.

I sure wish my local salvage yards were as reasonable as that. The only local units I can find are $200 and probably don't include the wiring pigtail. I'll probably need to go to eBay...

[Cris]

I went with the No Limit Engineering rack and pinion. Not exactly a no muss, no fuss install. Instructions are mediocre, but they are great at answering their phones to cover any questions. I have driven approximately 500 miles with no issues. I used Davis Speed Equipment for the power steering pump bracket.

[Arne]

Originally Posted by Cris

I went with the No Limit Engineering rack and pinion. Not exactly a no muss, no fuss install. Instructions are mediocre, but they are great at answering their phones to cover any questions. I have driven approximately 500 miles with no issues. I used Davis Speed Equipment for the power steering pump bracket.

The picture on No Limit's site looks like they use a different rack to build on. Maybe a Fox-body Ford rack. The POL part starts life as a Dodge Dakota rack, with a couple custom mods.

At this point, I'd say that the POL kit really is a fairly no-fuss kit, as long as you aren't trying to mount an old-style Saginaw pump in the stock location. That won't work. Using a later Type-2 pump will work with some fussing. Or using a remote mounted electric pump is relatively straightforward.

Besides the pump issue, the only thing that keeps the POL kit from being a true bolt-on is the mods required for the steering column shaft. And that is pretty much required for any kind of steering swap.

I'll be going with an electric Volvo pump mounted in the left fender well.

[Cris]

Arne:

The No Limit rack uses a 2009-2013 Silverado rack.

I wanted to use the stock steering wheel and column on my conversion, so there was indeed some cutting and modification. Not crazy difficult, but you won't install it in a weekend.....

I chose the No Limit route because they had a good reputation for quality and had the best, most available tech help. You call and you are talking with someone that has hands on experience installing and driving one.

[Arne]

Originally Posted by Cris

The No Limit rack uses a 2009-2013 Silverado rack.

Nice. Using a truck rack as the base is a better idea than using some light-duty car part.

Originally Posted by Cris

I wanted to use the stock steering wheel and column on my conversion, so there was indeed some cutting and modification. Not crazy difficult, but you won't install it in a weekend.....

Exactly. I'm doing the same. I will probably start on the column work on mine in a couple of days.

Originally Posted by Cris

I chose the No Limit route because they had a good reputation for quality and had the best, most available tech help. You call and you are talking with someone that has hands on experience installing and driving one.

That's a good reason to select a vendor. POL support has been helpful, but maybe not quite as knowledgeable as what you describe.

I'll touch back after I get the electric pump installed and have it all working.

[Cris]

Here’s what mine looks like.

[Arne]

Interesting. Does the steering shaft actually go through a hole in the top of the frame rail? That's a bit different.

[Cris]

Arne:

Yes, you bore a hole (really a slot) in the top flange of the frame rail (as you see in the photo) to pass the steering shaft through. Underneath that slot sits a bearing to support the shaft.

There are five holes that get drilled in the cross member to mount the rack, and that's about the extent of hacking on the frame.

I cut the stock steering tube as close to the fire wall as I could to keep the steering shaft angles to a minimum. I relocated the lower steering column bearing further up on the shortened column. The rest of the column stayed stock.

[Arne]

Nice. I like the shallow shaft angles.

Now that I have my POL kit mounted, I'm pretty certain I've got it all sussed out. The kit bolts up to the frame with no drilling at all, the bracket mounts to the existing frame holes for the idler arm and steering box.

But clearance at the lower shaft u-joint does not allow use of a normal Saginaw-style pump. You either need to use a later Type-2 pump with remote reservoir or go with an electric pump. (I'm going electric.) And I will need to make a small relief cut in the top of the frame rail for shaft clearance, and maybe trim the inner fender a bit.

[Arne]

The mechanical part of my conversion is now complete. Just waiting on the electric pump now.

[Cris]

Arne:

Let us know how it drives and how the electric pump works out. Good for the archives!

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by Arne

The mechanical part of my conversion is now complete. Just waiting on the electric pump now.

Sure looks great so far. Make sure you post pics of the u-joints installed with the reliefs. One of the reasons I didnt go R+P was the hole in the frame where my VIN was.

[Arne]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

Sure looks great so far. Make sure you post pics of the u-joints installed with the reliefs. One of the reasons I didnt go R+P was the hole in the frame where my VIN was.

The reliefs are both done in the last picture. The one in the top of the rail is almost invisible, a small half moon about 5/16" deep. That is the only frame mod the POL kit requires, and it might not need that on all trucks—with a really short aftermarket column the shaft would probably clear the frame. It was a near thing on mine with the stock column.

Frankly, POL's claim of "no chassis/frame mods" was one of the reasons I selected this kit.

Here's some closeups of the two reliefs.

[The Rocknrod]

Yep that's a s good as I've seen on these units. Well done.

[Arne]

Originally Posted by Arne

The mechanical part of my conversion is now complete. Just waiting on the electric pump now.

Something happened to the picture I attached above. Trying again.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by Arne

Something happened to the picture I attached above. Trying again.

Attachment 2255253

Arne, Great job! I went and looked at mine and you are correct. I can do just as you did to get it to work and just may do that. Less issue with the header if removal is needed.
I am working to get my 1940 coupe going for shows this year, but after that i am back at the truck. Great job though!! Thanks for input too!!!

[Arne]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

Arne, Great job! I went and looked at mine and you are correct. I can do just as you did to get it to work and just may do that. Less issue with the header if removal is needed.
I am working to get my 1940 coupe going for shows this year, but after that i am back at the truck. Great job though!! Thanks for input too!!!

Well, bear in mind that I believe that the possible need for a third U-joint on my truck was a very near thing. And depending on steering column choices, and variations and tolerances in cab mounts, what worked for me might not be good enough for all trucks.

[Arne]

Another update - After slicing and dicing the original Volvo brackets to suit my preferred location, the electric pump is mounted. One new 5/16" hole in the frame rail was required. Plenty of room, no clearance issues at all. The pump sits on its 3 original rubber mounts, and the brackets and the mount cradle are solid.

I will start figuring out the plumbing tomorrow. I'd like to use the hoses I got from POL if I can. The return line should be no problem, but the pressure line may be a little too long. I need to get a M16x1.5 banjo fitting to adapt to the female -6 AN end of the pressure hose, will be looking to get one of those locally if possible.

Once the hoses have been figured out, I will fill the reservoir, and then wire the pump. Three wires, very simple.

Last, after spinning it lock-to-lock many times during the test fitting, I've come to the conclusion that I probably do need a third u-joint and a support bearing for the steering shaft. There is just a touch of rhythmic binding when spinning the wheel back and forth. I suspect the upper u-joint angle is a touch too acute. So I either need an additional u-joint, or a different joint with greater range of motion. I'll be looking into this soon.