Replacing the flex plate

[1tonchevy]

I have to shave over 1/8th of the starter housing. So that it brings it closer so it actually meshes.
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[rs72z]

[QUOTE=1tonchevy;6034172]I have to shave over 1/8th of the starter housing. So that it brings it closer so it actually meshes.
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Put a thin washer between the housing and the block on the outside bolt only and then check it.

Before someone says that won't work i have to do this on my 15-1 alky injected 434 to keep it from eating up flywheels.

[88Jimmy4x4]

What brand starter is this and new or rebuilt?
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[1tonchevy]

It's a reman. I bought it from the local alt/starter guy.
I shaved the 1/8th off then reinstalled. Started great for 10/15 times then let it warm up and I **** it off. Went to start it again and GRIND gah!

Monday when im home ill try the thin washer on the out side bolt before i try anything else
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[Sabaka454]

Look here: http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/sm...c,20263.0.html

[Sabaka454]

Oh and btw make sure you have the correct starter and ring gear. How many teeth are on the flexplate?

[LynnJr]

We always took the solenoid off and pulled on the bendix to check the actual clearance on the motor.Once you have it set it won't require more attention.

[1tonchevy]

Originally Posted by Sabaka454

Oh and btw make sure you have the correct starter and ring gear. How many teeth are on the flexplate?

Flex plate is a 168 tooth
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[Billy81]

Originally Posted by LynnJr

We always took the solenoid off and pulled on the bendix to check the actual clearance on the motor.Once you have it set it won't require more attention.

I have always done it that way too.

[1tonchevy]

Originally Posted by Billy81

I have always done it that way too.

Not sure i follow?
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[rs72z]

They are talking about checking mesh between flywheel and drive gear. Removing bendix makes it easier to check.

On a different note....how much intial timing are you running? Also check and make sure your mechanical advance isn't froze up advanced causing it to kick back on the starter.

[LynnJr]

1TonDually

If you take the two screws off the solenoid and twist it it will poop off.This leaves the lever sticking out that gets drawn back when the solenoid is activated and acts like a electromagnet.

You can install your starter and pull the lever to see if the clearance is correct and that the starter is on straight.

They often times need to be shimmed but just as common is that they are often on crooked.

The starters nose will actually hit the block at the cutout not allowing the gears to mesh straight but on a angle.A die grinder with a cut-off wheel attachment works great for getting into the corner were a carbide burr wouldn't work.If your stater makes noise when cranking it isn't positioned right.

When I set up a engine and it is still on the stand I fit the starter as this is the best/easiest place/time to do it.

Flexplates are easier than flywheels because most engine stands will need to be shimmed to get a flywheel on them without hitting the four attachment arms.

In your case with the engine not firing right up means the starter is running longer than it normally would and its getting extremely hot.The heat is contributing in the killing of your starters.

Your battery is running at 13 volts and the starter is pulling around 350 amps so if you multiply 13V X 350A you get 4550 watts which is a lot of heat.
If you feel the battery cables,battery clamps or the starter you will feel all this heat.

When the starters teeth are not meshing straight they bind making it harder to turn over and creating even more heat.If they bind too much and the bendix gear doesn't release fully when the engine fires up the flexplate will now be spinning at 800 rpm and the bendix will be spinning much to fast.The extra rpm will blow up the internal workings of the starter and this kills alot of starters on new builds when everything is tight.

In your situation I would fit up a new starter then tune-up the truck.If you have a starter shop in your town you can have them build you a starter with Cadillac internals.If you don't have a shop nearby always use a big block starter on your motors,They are the ones with the shorter solenoid and the long bushing.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by LynnJr

1TonDually

If you take the two screws off the solenoid and twist it it will poop off.This leaves the lever sticking out that gets drawn back when the solenoid is activated and acts like a electromagnet.

You can install your starter and pull the lever to see if the clearance is correct and that the starter is on straight.

They often times need to be shimmed but just as common is that they are often on crooked.

The starters nose will actually hit the block at the cutout not allowing the gears to mesh straight but on a angle.A die grinder with a cut-off wheel attachment works great for getting into the corner were a carbide burr wouldn't work.If your stater makes noise when cranking it isn't positioned right.

When I set up a engine and it is still on the stand I fit the starter as this is the best/easiest place/time to do it.

Flexplates are easier than flywheels because most engine stands will need to be shimmed to get a flywheel on them without hitting the four attachment arms.

In your case with the engine not firing right up means the starter is running longer than it normally would and its getting extremely hot.The heat is contributing in the killing of your starters.

Your battery is running at 13 volts and the starter is pulling around 350 amps so if you multiply 13V X 350A you get 4550 watts which is a lot of heat.
If you feel the battery cables,battery clamps or the starter you will feel all this heat.

When the starters teeth are not meshing straight they bind making it harder to turn over and creating even more heat.If they bind too much and the bendix gear doesn't release fully when the engine fires up the flexplate will now be spinning at 800 rpm and the bendix will be spinning much to fast.The extra rpm will blow up the internal workings of the starter and this kills alot of starters on new builds when everything is tight.

In your situation I would fit up a new starter then tune-up the truck.If you have a starter shop in your town you can have them build you a starter with Cadillac internals.If you don't have a shop nearby always use a big block starter on your motors,They are the ones with the shorter solenoid and the long bushing.

Plus 100 bonus points for using Ohms Law in your answer. Great post !
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[brakenit]

Originally Posted by rs72z

They are talking about checking mesh between flywheel and drive gear. Removing bendix makes it easier to check.

On a different note....how much intial timing are you running? Also check and make sure your mechanical advance isn't froze up advanced causing it to kick back on the starter.

+1

I had a '79 C20 with a 454/TH400 a long time ago that I bought for cheap because the flywheel needed changed due to a few missing teeth. I replaced it and a month or two later it ate the teeth off of another flywheel. I was confused but replaced it again, a month or two later it did it again and I finally discovered that the timing was too far advanced and when it was hot it would kick back and shear 2-3 teeth off of the flywheel. The first time it happened to me it did it so fast I couldn't even tell what had happened. At least by the 3rd time I replaced it I was down to under 2 hours from start to finish.

[1tonchevy]

The trucks got brand new plugs and wires. Ill be putting a fuel filter in next time i work on it. So how do I go about setting the timing? Do I set it when the engin is cold or hot? Can it be done with out a timing light?
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[rs72z]

First thing you need to do is pull the cap off and turn the rotor....it should turn free and then spring back when you let go of the rotor. If it is hard to turn, doesn't spring back or doesn't turn at all then the advance is froze up. If this is the case the dist. will need to come out and be took apart to free it up.
You really need a light to set the timing. I can usually get one close by sound, but if have been at it a long time.....(read old).

[LynnJr]

A light works best but no matter how you do it you need to be 2 degrees below any pinging.
If it calls for 10 degrees before top dead center(BTDC) and it pings you have to drop it to 6 degrees BTDC and so on.
If you don't have a light loosen the clamp while it is running and twist it slightly in each direction.You will hear the motor pick up RPM and drop RPM as you twist it.
You want the highest RPM you can get at idle without any pinging going down the road under a load.
If it starts hard you have gone too far advanced and need to back it down or lower in RPM.
The reason a light works best is you can see small changes very easily.

[1tonchevy]

Looks like Monday I have lots of things to try and do. This is by far the most interesting starter instal i have ever done in my life of turning wrenches.
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[1tonchevy]

Originally Posted by rs72z

First thing you need to do is pull the cap off and turn the rotor....it should turn free and then spring back when you let go of the rotor. If it is hard to turn, doesn't spring back or doesn't turn at all then the advance is froze up. If this is the case the dist. will need to come out and be took apart to free it up.
You really need a light to set the timing. I can usually get one close by sound, but if have been at it a long time.....(read old).

Popped the cap off and rotor moves and springs back freely . How much movement should it have?
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[motornut]

also check for oblonging or ovaling out the holes too
as much as I tried to clean/adjust the 78s it would act up
but when I realized it was ovaled out too, cleaned and degreased it too many times,I got another one
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[1tonchevy]

My trucks running rich. How do you lean it out a bit? Im new to the carb sene
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