1974 C20 Soon to become a project...

[Super_Dave]

Working on small stuff while I finalize what all needs to be done.

Replaced both door strikers... huge difference! Next up is the drivers door top hinge.

My body shop buddy came over on Friday and said he will do the job at his home shop in one afternoon. Get it done and in primer. When the weather warms up, the 20 will get a base coat clear coat.

I think I have the wife's Exploder sold... Yeah, I know, but she bought it before we ever met.

If that deal goes down, the motor swap will take place post-haste and then most likely off to storage for the two Internationals. I say most likely, because a guy in Colorado contacted me about buying both Internationals and all the spare parts... I have ridden in that rodeo before.

I had to work out a deal with my daughter, that if I sold "her truck" I had to negotiate a "first right of refusal" if Mr. Colorado ever sold the truck... PLUS I have buy a '56 Bel Air before she reaches her senior year in high school, ... She then proceeded to light up my e-mail with potential candidates... What have I created?

[patrickth]

First of all Howdy. I just went through the decision to go C-10 (almost all overpriced locally compared to work needed) or buying a really nice c-20 for reasonable Money. Found a local unit with 40K miles that needs a new tailgate, same door problem and a bit of rust. $500. As soon as I could figure out best way to mount a good hitch, drove it to Lake Havasu with a very full trailer with only needing a thermostat and had to bypass heater core. Your build makes perfect sense to me. With gas prices so low at the moment, just might keep it a c-20 Subscribed.

[Super_Dave]

patrickth,

Yeah, "quality" C10's are getting real expensive and they need a lot more work than the 20 I got. I can put a set of ECE 2.5" drop spindles and up to a 2" drop spring and lower the front 4.5" for about $450. I have a $100 12B rear, coupled with a new brake job and flip kit and can drop the rear 6" or so for about $300.

Then it's all cosmetic work, which will not be bad at all because of the overall condition of the 20. I have a slight bow in the tailgate, but have access to several at the U-Pull It. All the sheet metal is the same between the 10 and 20 (as far as I have determined), so for all intents and purposes, I will have a 10 with a little 20 running gear up front.

[slotard]

Originally Posted by Super_Dave

patrickth,

Yeah, "quality" C10's are getting real expensive and they need a lot more work than the 20 I got. I can put a set of ECE 2.5" drop spindles and up to a 2" drop spring and lower the front 4.5" for about $450. I have a $100 12B rear, coupled with a new brake job and flip kit and can drop the rear 6" or so for about $300.

Then it's all cosmetic work, which will not be bad at all because of the overall condition of the 20. I have a slight bow in the tailgate, but have access to several at the U-Pull It. All the sheet metal is the same between the 10 and 20 (as far as I have determined), so for all intents and purposes, I will have a 10 with a little 20 running gear up front.

Yep, and the 20 has a slightly thicker frame so it's less likely to have cracking problems at the steering box (if treated the same).

[patrickth]

I am due for a road trip. Going to look for a gold front passenger fender to put on while I fix my original. I bought a welder, but don't know how to use it yet. Need to practice filling some rust break throughs.

Forum won't let me post pics.

[Super_Dave]

What happens when you try to post a photo?

[patrickth]

It says security cert error, contact admin. Going to look deeper into it in a bit. Got to drill a hole in trailer tongue to readjust a chain.

[Super_Dave]

I believe your computer is looking at the websites Security Certificate or the website might be looking for yours (which would be really odd), which may have expired, and so it's limiting access. Might just be some settings you need to adjust on your end, like lowering your Security Setting from High to Medium?... just a guess.

[slotard]

Originally Posted by patrickth

It says security cert error, contact admin. Going to look deeper into it in a bit. Got to drill a hole in trailer tongue to readjust a chain.

I would suggest using imgur.com to host images, once you've uploaded them you can copy the BBCode link they have, paste it here, and have images show up.

[patrickth]

Trying again. Never had a problem before. Fender needed, and color of truck with option code.

[Super_Dave]

Yea for me... the 1998 Exploder has found a new home! An Oregon Duck fan bought it and my wife has all her Oregon State Beavers decals plastered on the back window.

I'm sure she will appreciate the irony... although her take will be that the Duck deserved all the problems he just bought. He is a mechanic for a Ford Dealer and had no issues with all the problems.

Now to focus on the engine swap... and getting the Internationals sold or into storage.

[rgunlock]

Nice truck, and congrats on unloading the exploder. If you haven't already dealt with the door hinge, I just rebuilt all 4 of my hinges with parts from LMC. Replacing the S-spring would only take a few minutes, and replacing the hinge pins and bushings is also pretty easy and for a couple dollars in parts you might want to do it while the door is off anyway. Of course getting the door off, hinge off, back on, and realign door will likely take just a bit longer

[Super_Dave]

Well... here is the initial start on the build.

BABA YAGA GETS A NEW HEART!

I couldn't line up any help from local members over the past couple of months, but I was able to sell the 98 Exploder and two 74 Internationals to get enough cash to make the swap and do some minor mechanical repairs. The focus will be on mechanical first then body, paint and interior.

My brother has his one man shop in McMinnville and it keeps him really busy. I cajoled him into helping me as my L5 vertebra is dislocated and pinching nerves, and sometimes pressing my spinal cord, due to a condition called Spondylolisthesis and life is not too comfortable at the moment.

I will just toss up the photos for the time being, as I haven't figured out how to list them in the post and put specific comments on each one...

Two days worth of removing a built 350 from the defunct International build (live and learn...), removing the old OEM 350 from the '74 C20 and setting it aside for future use, then installing the new 350 in the C20.

My brother did the lion's share of the heavy lifting, You can see my brother Nate is three of the photos. He is a master of making things work, adapting on the fly and just constantly troubleshooting. It's amazing to watch him work. I am fortunate he had time to fit me into his schedule and was willing to work on his Saturday; a typical day off.

Looking forward to the 500 mile break-in period on the motor then getting some of the minor mechanical work done... New KYB shocks, full hinge repairs on both doors, cab/radiator support bushing replacements, etc.

[Super_Dave]

More eye candy...

[Super_Dave]

Well, we went to the pick-n-pull to acquire some additional parts for the build project.

Mt C20 had a good working tailgate with no cancer, but the inner panel was seriously bowed and the top rail had a few small but deep dents, making the bodywork effort more than what the tailgate was worth.

So, we cruised around some yards an scored a super nice tailgate complete with hinges. Not the same year, but I am not trying to restore it, just make it a really nice DD. I will most likely cut the small letter CHEVROLET portion out and center it in the tailgate when I do the body work, then fill on the void with some sheet metal.

Then we scrounged up a really nice set of BLUE shoulder harness seat belts. Zero wear but some grunge from being in the yard. Depending on the final color of the truck, I will most likely be dying them another color.

I also grabbed a full set of rubber door seals. They need some scrubbing but are in amazing shape. Jury is out if I will keep them for when my new ones wear out or if I will just clean them and sell them.

My mirror was starting to get that crazed look from the coating on the back wearing off, so I sent my 12 year old daughter, who had more fun than what is legally allowed, on a mirror search. It wasn't long before I had an armful to choose from. I took two home so I would have a spare.

My window washer canister had a leak at the seam, which could be repaired, but I found a nice one and grabbed it. I left another one behind for my next run of parts.

The last thing I snagged was a ZT-101 Wiper Delay module that was installed on one of the trucks. I cut the wires as far back into the harness as I could, in hopes of determining how the PO had it installed. Thought it might be worth a stab at trying to see if I can get it to work for basically no money. However, I am having a dickens of a time finding any literature online about it.

My next trip in a couple days, will be to retrieve a pristine chrome front bumper from another '74, since mine has a little wow on the top that will cost more to fix and re-chrome than buying this one. There is also a nice radiator core support I will grab as well.

There was a lot of excellent trim pieces, which are time consuming to remove... might just take the entire fender and save if for future use... never know if you will get hit one day and settling for import body parts when you can save some nice OEM parts just doesn't seem like the right thing to do.

Anyway... here is my $129 haul not counting a couple of rediculous fees that ran the total to $140.03. That includes a $4.99 CORE charge on the tailgate! Who charges a CORE charge for a tailgate!!? Then they tacked on a $10.13 ENVIRONMENTAL FEE... what's that for!!? It's not like I was taking a leak out there or dumping my old parts!

Anyway, all in all, Not bad for 90 minutes work. Things are starting to come together... living the dream!

[rusty76]

Good looking truck. Sorry late to the party. But man I love the color combo. Looks like the cousin to my 76.

[Super_Dave]

Well, the tailgate is on (had to go back to the bone yard and get the mating fender brackets and trunnions) The swap was uneventful. I now have a super straight tailgate for $55!

Next up are the new KYB shocks, Cab Mounts and (4) hinge pins and (2) S springs. Need my sons strong back for help on the doors.

[Super_Dave]

BABA YAGA! got some new KYB shocks installed today. They made quite a difference:

Increased HP: 47HP
Increased MPG: 3.7 MPG
Decreased ET 1/4 Mile: -2.35 sec.
Decreased 60-0 Stopping Distance: 58' 6"
Decreased W-W Turning Radius: .5 Turns
Doors close easier...
Door and Fender Gaps no longer need adjustment...
Front dropped 5" and back dropped 8"... so I don't have to remove any leaf's in the rear or buy any expensive drop kits...

Who woulda thunk $125 worth of KYB's woulda done all that!
Oh, and the ride is a bit firm but should mellow out after the KYB's get broken in...
Front: KG5409 $31.99 each
Rears: KG5415 $31.79 each
$40 rebate through April

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by Super_Dave

Next up are the new KYB shocks, Cab Mounts and (4) hinge pins and (2) S springs. Need my sons strong back for help on the doors.

I use a cherry picker (engine hoist) for the doors so no help needed taking them off or going back on.

[Super_Dave]

Well... missed my edit deadline... Here is BABA YAGA's! new derrière and ankle braces...

KYB furnished nice quality upper hardware but you have to use your old lower hardware until you can get replacements. Would be nice if the hardware were complete or they let you know that you will only be getting half of the hardware so you can have the lowers on hand.

On to the doors... hinge pins and springs, and new body mounts! Still keeping my eye out for radiator core support, inner fender (God only knows why that specific area manages to die an ugly death from the battery... gotta fix that issue once and for all) and a bed side that will be cheaper than fixing the dents on my beltline... those hard edges can eat a lot of body work time, making a bone yard find much more reasonable.

After that, it's time to get serious about the newly discovered cancer (minor though it is compared to most) in the inner rockers and kick panels.

Then start saving funds for body, paint and upholstery.

[Super_Dave]

While waiting for funds to multiply, I have been playing around on paint schemes and wheel combos for BABA YAGA!

[Super_Dave]

Today, #2 and I had to fix an exhaust leak at the header flange. I had ordered a set of Remflex gaskets, (anyone wanting trouble free gaskets for all performance levels... REMFLEX!). Pulled the bolts from the Heddman Ceramic Hedders and popped off the new gaskets that came with the headers. Take my advice: DO NOT USE THE GASKETS THAT HEDMAN SHIPS WITH THEIR HEADERS! And while we are at it: DO NOT USE THE HEADER BOLTS THAT COME FROM HEDMAN! THEY WILL RUST AND CORRODE IN A MATTER OF DAYS!!

Rant over. Looking at both Header gaskets showed multiple blowouts. In fact, the two center exhaust ports had a blowout 2" wide across the top and extending all the way down to the bottom of the ports. Not bad for 1,200 miles, huh?!

Talked to ARP and they recommended 3/4" header bolts... with the Hedman .25" flange and the .125" Remflex Gaskets and the .0625" star washers, it's not going to work. Go with the 1" bolts. My 3/4" are on the way back for replacement with 1".

Remflex says to crush the gaskets 50% when tightening the header bolts. The graphite based gasket material is pliable and will expand back out against the heads and headers. We did as advised and cranked BABA YAGA! up... Music to my ears! Runs a lot quieter under normal throttle, so all the leaks were adding to the noise factor. With multiple leaks, it was difficult to tell how much noise they were responsible for until the crappy Headman gaskets were replaced..

According to Remflex, you don't need to go back and re-torque the header bolts. Since I have to replace the crappy Headman bolts with 1" ARPs', it will be interesting to see if they backed off at all.

NICE BLOWOUT... HUH! Looked like this all over the both gaskets. I have serious questions about using anything from HEDMAN again.

[patrickth]

Just dropped in to say hello. My truck has been nickle and dime tricks to me lately. I haven't spent any time on it though, been busy with a 68 Pontiac Le Mans OHC-6 I am going to flip. Got to get a new power steering hose and still haven't done the window register.

[chvtrkman]

This looks like an interesting build... will try to follow along when I can. BTW: I don't know if you're taking a poll or not, but my vote on the paint scheme would be #9 or #11.

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by chvtrkman

This looks like an interesting build... will try to follow along when I can. BTW: I don't know if you're taking a poll or not, but my vote on the paint scheme would be #9 or #11.

Thanks for the input.

I started another thread about a 1974 BelAir Concept located here http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...93#post7209093 . I had this wild hare idea about using the fleet side to imitate a '56 Belair. Going to make the final design decision difficult.