1958 Apache Big Window Loooooong Bed "Lucky"

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

Whose blue truck is that Dan? I've see it numerous times, in photos, and it's really nice.

No idea. I found it on a Google image search and was so impressed by it that I saved it. There is also a dark red or burgundy long bed that is very impressive as well. Somehow I’ve managed to lose that one. I THINK this blue is 60’s Chevrolet Marina blue, but of course there’s no real way to know.

[joedoh]

great work on the patch!

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by joedoh

great work on the patch!

Thanks! I will definitely need to body work the panel, but thats okay with me, plenty of learning opportunity. This corner of the fender seems to curve inward, and I haven't really figured out how to resolve that yet..

[BIGglaSS]

Heck , yeah. That's how I started, you're on the right track.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by BIGglaSS

Heck , yeah. That's how I started, you're on the right track.

Sometimes just getting your hands dirty and getting those first few mistakes over with can go a long way!

[daveshilling]

rewelding the panel helped, but grinding is hard for me to do well on these panels... I cant tell when I've ground the weld level, too far, not far enough.. and getting too agressive is leaving some marks, both with the grinder and hammer.

I can see why guys would just coat the whole damn thing with filler, this is a skill acquired through hours and hours of practice.

[dsraven]

you may try the flap discs for the grinding down part.
sometimes a piece of plywood or mdf cut to the correct contour for the panel is good to have for this type of thing when starting out. that way you can double check as you go to ensure it isn't too bent or not bent enough etc. sheet metal pattern would also work I suppose, whatever you have lots of.
I recommend to cut the hole, then cut the patch to fit big and bent it to shape, then slip it in behind the original spot and mark it fit the shape of the hole. then cut it so there is a bit of a gap between the parts, then tack it in place, checking the contour with your pattern as you go. walk away to allow the whole panel to cool off. come back and spot a few welds between the original ones, like midway. walk away again. each time you come back check to ensure the panel is room temp again. that way it minimizes the warpage. when done use a flap disc to level out the weld, they work on a flatter surface than the usual grinding disc that is made to work on it's edge. again, slowly so things don't heat up and warp. a quick dusting of primer will show you the high spots when you touch it with the disc.
it's always good to have a few other small projects going on when doing this so you are not tempted to go back and "burn it in". less time cussing later when doing the sheet metal prep and bodywork.
what you have there looks pretty good though. some hammer and dolly work and you will be done. if you have a little "innie" dent that has minimal room behind it for a dolly, try to make it an "outie" dent so it is out where you can work it. then use some heat on the high spots (some guys even use a laundry iron because it only touches the high spots) and a wet rag to cool it right after. just enough heat to make the wet area steam, not like cherry red or turning blue or anything like that.
there is a few videos from wray schelin that show using a shrinking disc. same theory, different method. heat the high spot then cool with a damp rag.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by dsraven

you may try the flap discs for the grinding down part.
sometimes a piece of plywood or mdf cut to the correct contour for the panel is good to have for this type of thing when starting out. that way you can double check as you go to ensure it isn't too bent or not bent enough etc. sheet metal pattern would also work I suppose, whatever you have lots of.
I recommend to cut the hole, then cut the patch to fit big and bent it to shape, then slip it in behind the original spot and mark it fit the shape of the hole. then cut it so there is a bit of a gap between the parts, then tack it in place, checking the contour with your pattern as you go. walk away to allow the whole panel to cool off. come back and spot a few welds between the original ones, like midway. walk away again. each time you come back check to ensure the panel is room temp again. that way it minimizes the warpage. when done use a flap disc to level out the weld, they work on a flatter surface than the usual grinding disc that is made to work on it's edge. again, slowly so things don't heat up and warp. a quick dusting of primer will show you the high spots when you touch it with the disc.
it's always good to have a few other small projects going on when doing this so you are not tempted to go back and "burn it in". less time cussing later when doing the sheet metal prep and bodywork.
what you have there looks pretty good though. some hammer and dolly work and you will be done. if you have a little "innie" dent that has minimal room behind it for a dolly, try to make it an "outie" dent so it is out where you can work it. then use some heat on the high spots (some guys even use a laundry iron because it only touches the high spots) and a wet rag to cool it right after. just enough heat to make the wet area steam, not like cherry red or turning blue or anything like that.
there is a few videos from wray schelin that show using a shrinking disc. same theory, different method. heat the high spot then cool with a damp rag.

Excellent tips, thank you sir!

Originally Posted by mikebte

Not to bad, I wouldn't kick it. I may take on your design as I start repairing rust on my own ride.

Feel free! I dont think I'm doing anything worth copying quite yet, but definitely just start getting after it and make some mistakes, its fun!

Originally Posted by 58 pache

Great build so far. I also live in roseville.
Been debating on the c4 or full IFS lately myself. not alot of vette parts in the norcal area.

I have a 84-87 setup for sale since I had to switch to the later year due to a mixup with the crossmember that was shipped to me... You're welcome to stop by the house and check it out and get the forum member price 916-304-2145

[mikebte]

Not to bad, I wouldn't kick it. I may take on your design as I start repairing rust on my own ride.

[58 pache]

Great build so far. I also live in roseville.
Been debating on the c4 or full IFS lately myself. not alot of vette parts in the norcal area.

[daveshilling]

Got the IFS parts cleaned up and mocked up one more time with the fender to make sure it looked good, then I went ahead and burned in the crossmember.




Now I'm on the hunt for a CTS V or F-Body oil pan setup... if anyone has one they'd like to sell, I'm interested! Hoping to buy used and save a few bucks since a used oil pan should perform as well as a new one. If I cant find one in decent time, I'll just order a takeoff from eBay.



I ordered some universal mounts From LSX Innovations HERE after seeing an artice where they were able to get the mount onto the crossmember using a slotted plate. I could have probable made these, but the water cut pieces are clean, precise, and already done.

[Roadkill58]

Looking good! Once you get the steering column in place it will become clear what you need to do.

It looks like you won't have any problems.

.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by Roadkill58

Looking good! Once you get the steering column in place it will become clear what you need to do.

It looks like you won't have any problems.

.

So I've been looking for a keyless 70's GM tilt automatic steering column with no luck.

I dont mind keeping the factory column for Lucky the Trucky if I can get it to shift the 4L60e smoothly...can anybody who has acheived this chime in with some advice/tips? The Jackalope used the factory column and frankly it shifts like crap.

[FleetsideBill]

Question did you move you cross member back from flat out directions?
27 1/2 didn't work for me

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by FleetsideBill

Question did you move you cross member back from flat out directions?
27 1/2 didn't work for me

Yes, I did, to 28.75" I believe, since it appears that FlatOut based their directions on a 55.2-57 which has a shorter front.

[Nut Case]

Looking grand, strong work. How did you establish ride height for the C-4 front and rear suspension? I'll be using the C-4 suspension as soon as I can get my 57 GMC build off perma-hold.

Thanks in advance

NC

[58 pache]

Making some good progress. Nice work on the tbss manifolds.
I was gonna hit you up on the C4. But the wife got let go from her job. It's so weird that 5 yrs ago i sold my 67 cutlass and that money was going into the 58 and she lost her job the next day. It's a conspiracy I tell ya!

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by 58 pache

Making some good progress. Nice work on the tbss manifolds.
I was gonna hit you up on the C4. But the wife got let go from her job. It's so weird that 5 yrs ago i sold my 67 cutlass and that money was going into the 58 and she lost her job the next day. It's a conspiracy I tell ya!

It happens! Yes these manifolds are awesome, and certainly going to simplify the steering setup.

[daveshilling]

Well it's been a bit over a year and I'm definitely nowhere near as far along as I'd hoped. Not even close, actually.

Over the holiday I finally decided on some mounts and ordered Randy Ellis's tubular mount setup. For $50 + shipping it was not too much more than buying the materials myself. I got the frame portion welded in and then cleaned up and primered all the bare steel since it was starting to get a bit of surface rust.





Not bad for a guy who has never built a truck before and has maybe 5 feet of welding under his belt, I think. Progress seems to come in spurts... nothing happens for a month, then one weekend I spend 12 hours in the garage.


While keeping busy since I'm not sure what the next step is without having more parts, I decided to clean up the dash area and get it ready for wiring and PCM mount. I learned this cool detail that the factory ignition has a little light bulb that shoots light through the hole where the key goes. Very cool.



Anyone know how to remove these ignitions, and can I get a key made?

[G&R's57GMC]

If I remember there is a pin hole in the key side of the switch that you would insert a paper clip wren in the lock position and then turn the key counter clockwise to release the lock cylinder. But you need the key to do this !

Then the bezel can be unscrewed and the switch can be removed.

Your option is to call a mobile locksmith and have a key made on site .
Be sure to tell them you need a key blank for the 50’s GM ignition . BTW if your lucky it will match the door lock

[daveshilling]

Thats a good idea, I think I'll get a key made. I like the original ignition!

[daveshilling]

Checking in with some progress...


The suspension is pretty much complete but with space being so tight I have to resist mounting everything, so it's still down to the frame in front.

I've been working on the hydroboost setup, and the Ogre setup with a mustang hydro mounted on the frame is what I'm going with.

I found an awesome pedal mount that attaches to the factory MC mount and two additional spots and holds the pedal so you don't need to use a cut-off MC to hold the pedal... $40 on ebay and its a solid piece.



Unfortunately I already removed the MC bracket before I knew this existed... at least I get to clean behind it now and prime/paint. I'm still going to use the lower section of the factory MC mount, just with bolts instead of rivets.
I made a simple bracket to hold the booster to the frame.





I'm working on a clevis and pin setup to connect to the mustang booster rod. I machined an aluminum pin and roughed out some pieces, and I need to order the heim joint and rod to connect to the pedal and then stare at it some more.



I also started in on cleaning up the wiring harness, removing everything I won't be needing and re-taping/covering the wires. I relocated some of the grounds to make them easier to hide and repurposed some wires for a dual fan.




..and since I'll now have corvette power steering, I can downsize the steering wheel a bit and make ingress and egress even easier.. Not sure what this center cap is, but its a 60's chevelle wheel, red and worn, just like the truck.

[58 pache]

Some good progress dave. I would love to come check out your truck sometime since we both live in roseville.

[daveshilling]

Well it seems like I have a 2 month cadence to updating the thread.

In the last couple months I've worked on shortening the motorhome column I picked up from the classified section. It was definitely an interesting process, and cutting/welding the inner tube was quite a challenge. We'll see if it breaks and kills me I guess!

Here is a pic before I adjusted the shaft and converted it to 3/4 DD instead of splined:





I tried to make a new mounting plate for the cab based on the factory mount. It began with good intentions but didn't end up working out. I've started a new one but haven't moved past the base plate portion. I need to figure out how to get the angle of the column right and supported correctly. I need to order a drop mount for the dash that lowers the column an inch first.






Most recently, I decided (with the overwhelming support from the forum) to shorten the bed instead of finding one. Either way, the longbed frame needed to be cut down. Using the awesome post on shortening a longbed TF from this forum, I jumped in and started cutting.

My frame was covered in dirt and surface rust so cutting it down also let me pull the back half out to be pressure washed and wire wheeled down to something manageable.



This little piece of angle iron was used as a guide for the plasma cutter and it definitely helps make a nice straight cut!






After adding the reinforcing plates and smoothing the welds out, I need to get the rear kit from Flatout to mount my c4 suspension, get a tank back there, move the rear crossmember, and cut the end of the frame back to fit a short bed.

I'll probably end up raising the Flatout kit as high as I can and adding a small notch to the frame, like another forum member did to get rid of the rake and tuck the suspension higher up.

Not bad for a couple months, but I do need to work faster. Once we're rolling then it's off to a shop to run the brake and fuel lines, get the LS going, get a driveshaft, sort out the exhaust, and probably some other miscellaneous.

[dsraven]

on that master cyl spring pin, take that thing and use it for something else. use a cotter pin that fits the hole nicely and have it backed up with a washer behind it. trust me, when that spring pin falls out you will be thinking the same thing. happened to me long time ago. no brakes because of that. went off the road and into a gulley that had just been logged off. rolled several times and came to rest right side up with the front end up a tall stump and the back end sitting on a short stump. no injuries for the humans, not such a good ride for the equipment.
looking good man!