Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

well naturally now we needed longer carb studs, so we tried the 2" tall ones and not even they were tall enough

so we hit Oh'Reallys and picked up the 2 1/2" ones and they did the trick

[Gregski]

by then it got too dark to take a final pic, but we got everything assembled and after tightening that silly hex stud in the chrome dual hard line inlet we stopped the gushing gasoline fountain

we squirted some gasoline into the float bowls via their vent towers and the truck fired right up

I adjusted the float bowls so that the gas is half way full in the sight glasses both front and rear float bowls

the truck warmed up in the garage and then we took it around the block for a test drive, it ran good

I kept the same carb configuration I had before:

69 primary jets / 73 secondary jets (I think best I could see)
35 accelerator pump squirter
10.5 power valve (cause I'm pulling silly strong 20 inch vacuum at idle)
yellow vacuum secondary spring
no idea what color accelerator pump cam, will check in the morning (what ever stock one it came with)

[LT7A]

Originally Posted by Gregski

by then it got too dark to take a final pic, but we got everything assembled and after tightening that silly hex stud in the chrome dual hard line inlet we stopped the gushing gasoline fountain

Just checking, if you loosen that set screw would it allow you to adjust the length of the hard lines in relation to the fitting on the end? I wondered what it was there for when I saw it in the picture, and I wondered if it let you make adjustments.

Glad to get the updates and see the progress. Looks like you are settled in to your place so congratulations on that.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by LT7A

Just checking, if you loosen that set screw would it allow you to adjust the length of the hard lines in relation to the fitting on the end? I wondered what it was there for when I saw it in the picture, and I wondered if it let you make adjustments.

Glad to get the updates and see the progress. Looks like you are settled in to your place so congratulations on that.

Hmmm that's a great point, this is why I love this forum, full of good ideas. Honesty I have no idea what it's for, ha ha. I wonder if one could cut the lines shorter and move the end piece closer to the carb avoiding the inlet on the intake manifold, maybe one day I'll get motivated to find out

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Hmmm that's a great point, this is why I love this forum, full of good ideas. Honesty I have no idea what it's for, ha ha. I wonder if one could cut the lines shorter and move the end piece closer to the carb avoiding the inlet on the intake manifold, maybe one day I'll get motivated to find out

That is not a set screw. That is a 1/8" pipe plug. The port is typically used for a fuel pressure gauge.

[LT7A]

Originally Posted by Titomars

That is not a set screw. That is a 1/8" pipe plug. The port is typically used for a fuel pressure gauge.

Well, there we go. Mystery solved. Apparently adjustments are meant to be made by judicious bending after all. And now I know what the first custom aftermarket part I ought to invent is.

[rusty76]

I have had a truck since I was 19. I don't like borrowing a truck. If you own a house you really need a truck. Be it big or small a truck will save you in the long run. I have a small truck. It's plenty for what I need. I get my 76 on the road and I'll have two. Glad to see you back Greg.

[RDrancher]

Good on fixing the hard line clearance. I had the same problem installing the one for my Summit carb. Funny...a gazillion carbs using basically the same setup on a gazillion SBCs, and it doesn't quite fit.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by RDrancher

Good on fixing the hard line clearance. I had the same problem installing the one for my Summit carb. Funny...a gazillion carbs using basically the same setup on a gazillion SBCs, and it doesn't quite fit.

Great point, I guess retooling is not cost effective for the manufacturers so they let the consumer figure it out

question for you alls do we need to put some sort of gasket, oring, washer inside the hard line fittings to mate it to the carb, I put mine metal on metal and I am wondering if it will start leaking, so far so good, but metal don't like to mate with metal really well if you know what I mean?

[RDrancher]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Great point, I guess retooling is not cost effective for the manufacturers so they let the consumer figure it out

question for you alls do we need to put some sort of gasket, oring, washer inside the hard line fittings to mate it to the carb, I put mine metal on metal and I am wondering if it will start leaking, so far so good, but metal don't like to mate with metal really well if you know what I mean?

No gaskets or teflon tape on mine and no leaks yet. The carb install instructions (yes, I actually read them) specifically state not to use sealant tape. The flare is supposed to do all of the sealing.

[Gregski]

so not sure I shared this with you, but last October I tried yet another exhaust though it was short lived (ran it for a week or so) because I had that dreadful crank bearing problem

anywho I took it off thinking the noise was another exhaust header leak, turns out it wasn't, but I was running my exhaust manifolds with stockish turbo mufflers ever since, well until today

today we will put the Thrush Rattlers back on, or as I like to call it Exhaust 8.0

Hey what did you expect was going to happen when you leave me un supervised, LOL

[Gregski]

these are single chamber and they are not a pass through design, in other words you can't see through them, not the best for horse power and flow, but hey according to their website they are "Making Hot Rods Hotter"

[Gregski]

and so I got to build them, here they are being compared to what I had prior, a very loud straight pipe with only 9" resonators, did I say it was loud

these will have a more turn out style tip, dumping the dirty exhaust in front of the rear tires and right into the Prius stopped at the light next to us, two if we happen to be in the middle lane, win / win

[RDrancher]

Originally Posted by Gregski

and so I got to build them, here they are being compared to what I had prior, a very loud straight pipe with only a 9" resonators, did I say it was loud

these will have a more turn out style tip, dumping the dirty exhaust in front of the rear tires and right into the Prius stopped at the light next to us, two if we happen to be in the middle lane, win / win

BRAVO BRAV-O!!!

[Gregski]

tired of welding the resonators backwards in my last exhaust I decided to label the flow of the new Rattlers with some blue tape, so I weld them up right, as I believe unlike the Magmaflows these be directional

nothing to it but to do it

[Gregski]

so got the Thrush mufflers welded to the front pipes and then welded on the tail pipes, again I like to run my exhausts just to the rear axle so I don't have to do the surpentine looptie loop around it, that may be part of my drone proplems but hey that's how all the cool kids run their exhausts, hee hee

[Gregski]

a little mini update, so went back to the Remflex gaskets specifically designed for the L31 Vortec heads to ensure there are no exhaust leaks, also treated myself to some ARP header bolts, mostly for the much smaller bolt heads, should make turning them a bit easier in the very confined spaces that the headers provide

here's a little Top Tip on building your own DIY exhaust: if you design it with the parking brake on, ie the cable tension tight, when you release the parking brake for driving the truck, it might could hit the exhaust pipes, and ding like crazy, just sayin'

[LT7A]

Originally Posted by Gregski

here's a little Top Tip on building your own DIY exhaust: if you design it with the parking brake on, ie the cable tension tight, when you release the parking brake for driving the truck, it might could hit the exhaust pipes, and ding like crazy, just sayin'

Well, when you put on a muffler called the Rattler...

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by LT7A

Well, when you put on a muffler called the Rattler...

ha ha funny now that I think about it

[Gregski]

so the truck is pretty dialed in, the new exhaust is not quite what I was looking for (a nice deep rumble) but it's the best sounding so far, (louder than the Magnaflows, yet no drone like the Flowmasters) I may keep it for a couple [ahem] days, hee hee

here's a near perfect idle AFR (Air Fuel Ratio), I hope to get it Dyno Tuned by the end of this month, here's hoping... life has been beating up on us pretty good lately, wife had foot surgery and is to recover with a big cast for 6 weeks, so we are a (wo)man down.

[68post]

I always use an "H-pipe" when building exhaust. Flows better, less drone, nice rumble - but quieter. Summit has them in their brand and they are aluminized too, pretty inexpensive !

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 68post

I always use an "H-pipe" when building exhaust. Flows better, less drone, nice rumble - but quieter. Summit has them in their brand and they are aluminized too, pretty inexpensive !

thanks, I have tried the X pipe before and dreaded it, PIA to install and get all the clearance, plus I like a true separation in a dual exhaust system it allows me to quickly see which side of the engine is doing what and narrow things at least to one side, and part of me things the H pipe is a sham, lol

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Gregski

thanks, I have tried the X pipe before and dreaded it, PIA to install and get all the clearance, plus I like a true separation in a dual exhaust system it allows me to quickly see which side of the engine is doing what and narrow things at least to one side, and part of me things the H pipe is a sham, lol

Both X & H pipes are dyno proven to help HP in certain ranges. The voodoo behind how they work and why and how to properly set em up...
Dual pipes are easier to install. Do what you want.

[68post]

Originally Posted by Gregski

thanks, I have tried the X pipe before and dreaded it, PIA to install and get all the clearance, plus I like a true separation in a dual exhaust system it allows me to quickly see which side of the engine is doing what and narrow things at least to one side, and part of me things the H pipe is a sham, lol

H-pipe has a proven positive increase over a separate run of duals.

[Jay2Cor517]

Super Chevy magazine article: X-pipes and H-pipes Add Easy Horsepower, but Which is Best for Your Ride? X-pipes and H-pipes Add Easy Horsepower, but Which is Best for Your Ride? http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/exh...for-your-ride/