"Elwood" the 77_remix

[N2TRUX]

I have been trying to map out the cleanest routing of the A/C lines on my RestoMod Air install. I spoke with Gary this week and he gave me some insight that will help with a cleaner install. I'll get back on that this evening.

[N2TRUX]

Last week I got the replacement radiator from Summit. This time it came through unscathed so I set it in place. I bought the Spectra Premium CU730 which is the replacement for the OEM big block equipped trucks. Its a full factory 4 row core thats much bigger than the shorter small block unit it replaced. My research shows that it cools as good as, if not better than the copper care units. I'm skeptical, but the guys that do this for a living swear by them.

This radiator requires changes be made to the radiator filler panel. You will need a GM Spectre Performance Radiator Support Panel #4366 as well as the correct support bushings. I used Prothane Radiator Support Bushings 7-1712-BL

[N2TRUX]

This is where you will need to make some decisions. I did not want to run electric fans. There are many pros and cons that can be debated on this topic. My personal preference on THIS application was to maintain a clutch fan.

To do that and keep the factory small block fan shroud, I would need a to make a filler panel to take up the space above the fan shroud. After a bit of debating on my options I determimined that anything I added to the factory style panel would not meet my expectations. I decided to design something more to my liking instead.

I called Mike Losh at Slosh Tubz and discussed my ideas. He said "make a template and i will build it". So I set about designing a filler piece that functional and fashionable at the same time.

[83GMCK2500]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

This is where you will need to make some decisions. I did not want to run electric fans. There are many pros and cons that can be debated on this topic. My personal preference on THIS application was to maintain a clutch fan.

To do that and keep the factory small block fan shroud, I would need a to make a filler panel to take up the space above the fan shroud. After a bit of debating on my options I determimined that anything I added to the factory style panel would not meet my expectations. I decided to design something more to my liking instead.

I called Mike Losh at Slosh Tubz and discussed my ideas. He said "make a template and i will build it". So I set about designing a filler piece that functional and fashionable at the same time.

Loving the updates, that engine is looking mighty fine. Nice to hear positive things for Spectre radiators, I need one in my '96 and I've been searching high-&-low for a GM/AC Delco one that isn't $700.

With the move to the flat upper radiator support for the taller radiator, why not the fan shroud for the taller opening?

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by rustytruck50

I'm thinking that was a great course of action...gives some time to calm down & explore the possibilities

Yes, I needed to walk away for a bit. I'm not looking forward to getting back there, but I'll get it done soon enough.

Originally Posted by 83GMCK2500

Loving the updates, that engine is looking mighty fine. Nice to hear positive things for Spectre radiators, I need one in my '96 and I've been searching high-&-low for a GM/AC Delco one that isn't $700.
With the move to the flat upper radiator support for the taller radiator, why not the fan shroud for the taller opening?

I considered using the big block/diesel shroud. I looked at pics of them and didnt care for the height. I felt it would over power the motor that I'm trying to show off. Combine that with the knowledge of the more you change, the more you have to change.

I was astounded at the cost to recore a copper tank. I can buy three new ones for the same price. I want a big fan of the plastic and aluminum radiators, but thats all they are using in new cars and trucks for the last decade (or more) so I my as well get in this new millennium before its over.

[83GMCK2500]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Yes, I needed to walk away for a bit. I'm not looking forward to getting back there, but I'll get it done soon enough.

I considered using the big block/diesel shroud. I looked at pics of them and didnt care for the height. I felt it would over power the motor that I'm trying to show off. Combine that with the knowledge of the more you change, the more you have to change.

I was astounded at the cost to recore a copper tank. I can buy three new ones for the same price. I want a big fan of the plastic and aluminum radiators, but thats all they are using in new cars and trucks for the last decade (or more) so I my as well get in this new millennium before its over.

Thankfully the radiator in my '83 was re-cored about 12 yrs ago when it was still affordable and I've kept the coolant clean/fresh. The modern aluminum/plastic ones seem to be holding up better than when they first came out, but I totally understand the frustration in sending a brass tank with Harrison stamped in it to the recycler.

Caution, the diesel shroud is different, it's another 5" wider or so...a fairly asymmetrical beast of a shroud. Ever notice the other set of bolt holes on the top driver side of the core support past the ones that your (new) flat radiator support bolts to? Those are for the driver's side radiator hold down, it has separate metal hold downs with a plastic filler that spans them, the shroud bolts to the plastic filler on top.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by 83GMCK2500

......Caution, the diesel shroud is different, it's another 5" wider or so...a fairly asymmetrical beast of a shroud.....

Honestly I have almost zero knowledge of the diesels. I "thought" it shared the same shroud as the BBC. It seems I have now learned more than little about them.

[rustytruck50]

Lookin' good Ken!!! Did you get the broken bolt situation rectified?

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by rustytruck50

Lookin' good Ken!!! Did you get the broken bolt situation rectified?

Unfortunately I have not. I was determined not to let that hold up a good day of progress, so I skipped over the one remaining side for the moment. Once I'm done mocking up and do the final tear down, I will have to address the issue.

[rustytruck50]

I'm thinking that was a great course of action...gives some time to calm down & explore the possibilities

[N2TRUX]

Chris and I have been diligently working inside the cab, but heres where I'm at under the hood. I received my cover panel from Slosh Tubz last week. mike was extreemly quick at turning my idea in to a reality and shipping the part back to me.

He revised my bead roll design and included a place to add a Slosh Tubz billet badge.

[N2TRUX]

The panel Mike made fit the look I was after perfectly. I could not bring myself to install the factory panel with all of the ribs pressed in. This piece will blend in nicely when painted, and the bead roll matches the pulleys and my wheels.

[rustytruck50]

Wow...major difference!!!

[Advanced Design]

The panel came out very nice. Provides a clean look to the area.

[Jaysonb]

The radiator panel looks nice! Are you going to incorporate the top support cushions somhow?

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by rustytruck50

Wow...major difference!!!

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

The panel came out very nice. Provides a clean look to the area.

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Very nice progress Ken! Looks great!

Thanks guys.

Originally Posted by Jaysonb

The radiator panel looks nice! Are you going to incorporate the top support cushions somehow?

The cushions are there. Currently they are just sitting in place. I plan to add a way to secure them in position.

[mcbassin]

Very nice progress Ken! Looks great!

[N2TRUX]

I dropped the radiator panel off to be painted, so I moved inside the cab. I wanted to get the interior wrapped up so I could focus my attention under the hood when my parts are painted.

I received a huge shipment from Brothers Truck Parts last week. It included a new dash pad, and a complete set of vents assemblies.

[N2TRUX]

Chris and I mocked up the dash pad to ensure everything fit before we dyed it. Once we added the clips from the old pad, it fit in to place nicely. We had to do some minor trimming inside the opening around the bezel area and make screw holes for the center section. This allowed us to fit the pad precisely to my dash.

[N2TRUX]

Once we were comfortable with the fit, the new pad was thoroughly cleaned to remove the release agent and prepped for dye. After confirming the pad was completely clean, I sprayed a couple of light coats of Bulldog adhesion promoter. This was followed by several light coats of SEM dye that was custom mixed to match my seat vinyl. I redyed some of the plastic trim that had become scratched up from the in and out process of removing the old and new pad several times.

[cruizin01]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

I sprayed a couple of light coats of Bulldog adhesion promoter. This was followed by several light coats of SEM dye that was custom mixed to match my seat vinyl. I redyed some of the plastic trim that had become scratched up from the in and out process of removing the old and new pad several times.

Any reason you didn't use the SEM vinyl prep on the dash? I found the coating adheres VERY well with it when used on the dash, sunvisors etc.

I did use the adhesion promotor on the other PP plastic trims but found the coating wasn't nearly as robust compared to the vinyl. I think its just the nature of the type of plastics and the way the dye adheres. The coating adhered better to plastics that could utilize the Sand Free prep that was designed for ABS plastics, etc. Just my experience.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by cruizin01

Any reason you didn't use the SEM vinyl prep on the dash? I found the coating adheres VERY well with it when used on the dash, sunvisors etc....

I have always used the Bulldog brand adhesion promoter. I believe it was n2billet that first told me about it, and I have used it every since. I know it offers great adhesion on pliable vinyl. There are times when its the bond with hard plastics isnt a secure as i would like though.

The lest can of Bulldog I bought had gone up significantly in price, so I may explore the SEM brand promoters.

[N2TRUX]

While inside the cab, I decided something should be done with the seat belts. The 77 belts were unique by having a second retractor mounted behind the seat. This conflicted with my plans to have a speaker box behind the seat. That combined with the original seat belts were faded set me searching for an alternative.

I located a set of 76 belts that had good buckles, but bad webbing. The retractors needed some attention but they fit with only one hole drilled. We mocked them up to determine viability then tore them down for restoration.

[N2TRUX]

I picked the best buckles from two different sets. I soaked them in a buckets of water with cleaner to remove old lubricant and dirt from the retractors. Once cleaned and dried, I lubricated the retractors to get them working smoothly.

I cleaned and prepped the buckles, and retractor covers, then sprayed them to match the rest of the interior.

[N2TRUX]

Once I had the dye work done, I took the seat belts to Jaime at Cypress Auto Interiors to have the webbing replaced. The colors of webbing available are limited, but he anaged to find one that ties in with the rest of the interior.