My Dusty 71 GMCe Electruck

[Gregski]

let me know if you know what these are and if there is a difference?

[Mike Bradbury]

Originally Posted by Gregski

let me know if you know what these are and if there is a difference?

Removing tie rods and ball joints

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Mike Bradbury

Removing tie rods and ball joints

yes sir, and up until today I didn't know there was two different kind, no wonder my ball joint puller was slippin' off the tie rod ends, so I went to Oh' Reallys and rented the proper one

[Gregski]

so I finally liberated the steering linkage, I believe the disc brake conversion calls for different tie rod ends

[Gregski]

time to go after that crossmember

[Gregski]

and let me tell ya, she put up a fight

[Gregski]

there was no way gently tapping the upper control arm spindle knuckle was gonna brake her loose

[Gregski]

not even a 4' cheater bar and a vice would press her out

[Gregski]

driver side lower control arm

[Gregski]

so see them alignment shims, I swear every time I work on the control arms I loose these, or mix them up, or loose track of them somehow

[Gregski]

but today I was ready for these little rascals to go flying right into my pre labeled zippie zip baggies

[Gregski]

and what did they do after I loosened them bolts? did they drop straight to the floor or some black abyss

No, nope, they just stayed there, laffin' at me!!!

[Gregski]

document (although four per side they are of different thickneseses)

[Gregski]

well between cleaning the garage a bit, and the 7 trips to the parts house to rent the proper pullers I only got one side removed

[Gregski]

so how long did that took?

one bottle of red

[Gregski]

learned something new today, the steering knuckle comes off the spindle! who knew? I've only always seen 'em as one piece

[Mike Bradbury]

I have seen the steering arms both ways, removable and cast as one piece in the spindle. I wish mine were removable, my Mustang rack and pinion has terrible radius because the C20 arm is way too long for the rack.

Did you try applying heat to the spindle to expand it from the ball joint?

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Mike Bradbury

I have seen the steering arms both ways, removable and cast as one piece in the spindle. I wish mine were removable, my Mustang rack and pinion has terrible radius because the C20 arm is way too long for the rack.

Did you try applying heat to the spindle to expand it from the ball joint?

thanks Mike, and no not yet, here's a facetious question for you, how does the heat know which metal piece to expand, that has always bugged me, I mean we are applying heat to the spindle and the ball joint, so my simple mind thinks both grow in size, but then again I was never any good in Physics Education, could barely do 5 push 'em ups

[Mike Bradbury]

It is a simple fact of thermal conductance. The simple answer is, they do both expand but the more complex answer is that the rate of that expansion is different for the different material and the distance from the heat source and the ability of the heat to thermally conduct across the separation of the two metals.

So if you have ever tried to cut a piece of metal with an acetylene torch it cuts relatively easily because the pre heat cones in the torch tip are preheating the metal ahead of the oxygen cutting jet. If you try to put several plates next to each other in a line like a train and try to cut them, typically the torch will stop cutting at the end of each plate because the heat cannot thermally transfer between the two plates as effectively as it does through solid material. You have to lay off of the cutting jet and reheat the new plate before continuing the cut.

Heating the outside of the upper spindle housing will in fact heat the tapered shaft but it is further away from the flame and the heat will not move across the gap between the bore and the shaft as easily as it does through solid metal. Even though they are tight against each other it will not conduct as well, which is just the effect we need to loosen stuck things. This process has to be done quickly, metal expands only so much and if the heating process takes too long then the tapered shaft will soak up the heat and expand as much as the spindle bore. It is a high heat directed quickly to an area, then force applied to the "cooler" member. Heat too long and you'll have to let the whole thing cool down to try again.

Being careful to apply heat in a very specific area will yield the best results. Haphazardly waving the torch all over the area will typically heat the bottom portion of the tapered shaft with a direct heat source causing expansion and ineffective results. Not using a rose bud that washes heat all over but using a larger welding tip that can focus the heat more is typically better as it directs the heat in a determined spot. Understand that the welding tip is designed to melt the metal and constant moving is essential. Pause too long and you will start to melt a portion of the spindle.

Keep in mind that the grease and rubber cup will be consumed in the fire long before the expansion trick will work. Removing the rubber cup and as much grease as you can is better for your lungs and the ceiling of your garage. keep a fan blowing to exhaust all of the fumes. I have used brake cleaner to emulsify all of the grease beyond what is visible so it is just a raw steel ball. Let the joint sit for about 15 minutes so that the solvent can evaporate before heating. You can never get all of it out and it will be quite smoky but it does work if done correctly.

[8man]

Mike, that was a well thought out and well written explanation of how it works.

Now Greg, it is magic. Accept it and move on.

Nice work. I hate pulling that stuff apart. Also, the YouTube channel is fun.

[Gregski]

managed to get the other side off today, this time I tried heat on the upper control arm ball joint, but no dice, also had to cut it

[Gregski]

Victory victory

[Gregski]

seems like all this guy does is just weigh stuff

and it weighs 2.3 Priuses

[Gregski]

cross membrane ready for dirt, rust, and grime transfer... to my face!

[Gregski]

a couple before shots, as in before I transfer all the dirt, rust and grime to my face