65Custom Build Thread

[scotts62]

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

Scott your always behind

Yeah i know....

[Old School Kid]

Subscribed! Awesome work! I look forward to seeing it at Po Boys one day Ever need a hand or an eye out for something, just let me know..

Howdy from Marietta!

[65Custom]

Originally Posted by Old School Kid

Subscribed! Awesome work! I look forward to seeing it at Po Boys one day Ever need a hand or an eye out for something, just let me know..

Howdy from Marietta!

Hey Old School nice to meet ya! Thanks I'm trying to do it right. Another hand! Thanks. I'm sure that I will need some help coming up sometime in the near future. I'll give ya ping when that time comes.

I hope to make to some shows around if I can ever get it finished.

[65sublime]

Wow, what an effort so far! I wouldn't have thought to replace the entire floor, probably would have gone in the direction of replacing the cab. Great persistance and metal working skills.
In your initial comments you talked of going with one piece glass in the doors. Have you given that any more thought? I'm getting close to starting that on my '65 sub doors and am looking for any helpful ideas. The door stop looks like it may be an issue but I think later model hinges have a built-in door stop link. If the complete hinge is not a bolt-in swap maybe the link can be incorporated into the '65 hinge. I've already purchased power units that have a GM style motor attached to the vertical track. I'd like to make the mounting brackets bolt to the door edge or bottom because I'm not sure if I will use the stock interior panel or a full door upholstered panel. I've got one door that needs to be reskinned so getting access to plan things out should not be a problem. Sorry to hijack your thread but I wondered if you had looked into this yet?

[65Custom]

Originally Posted by 65sublime

Wow, what an effort so far! I wouldn't have thought to replace the entire floor, probably would have gone in the direction of replacing the cab. Great persistance and metal working skills.
In your initial comments you talked of going with one piece glass in the doors. Have you given that any more thought? I'm getting close to starting that on my '65 sub doors and am looking for any helpful ideas. The door stop looks like it may be an issue but I think later model hinges have a built-in door stop link. If the complete hinge is not a bolt-in swap maybe the link can be incorporated into the '65 hinge. I've already purchased power units that have a GM style motor attached to the vertical track. I'd like to make the mounting brackets bolt to the door edge or bottom because I'm not sure if I will use the stock interior panel or a full door upholstered panel. I've got one door that needs to be reskinned so getting access to plan things out should not be a problem. Sorry to hijack your thread but I wondered if you had looked into this yet?

I have looked around and found a site that says they offer a kit for one piece glass for both door a little pricey I guess but not too bad they say it includes everything needed to do it and even comes in tinted glass.

I'm still a little torn between the original with the vent windows and then one piece glass. I have yet to decide, basically this thing seems to be morphing into something that I had not planned on so far it has stayed true to the whole vision, but as I move along through the process things are changing some either because it has to change due to some just not being able to do it based on the idea or things are just not made they way I would like them and I have to change it to make it work.

I have got a way to go before I get to the doors and Ill post pics as I go along.

Here is a one piece install on our years
http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/04...ows/index.html may be helpful

Here is the one piece Glass kit
http://nolimit.net/prodinfo.asp?number=GLS-6466

[65Custom]

Stumbled across this if anyone has not see it

A fiberglass Cab, beds, door and hoods for our years

http://www.easyrestoration.com/Fiber...s/60-Chevy.htm

[Captainfab]

I would research that one piece window kit before pulling the trigger on it. I've heard some not so good reviews on their kit. I believe one of them was over on the '55-'59 forum

Originally Posted by 65Custom

I
Here is a one piece install on our years
http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/04...ows/index.html may be helpful

Here is the one piece Glass kit
http://nolimit.net/prodinfo.asp?number=GLS-6466

That is US Body Source.....they don't have a good reputation......

Originally Posted by 65Custom

Stumbled across this if anyone has not see it

A fiberglass Cab, beds, door and hoods for our years

http://www.easyrestoration.com/Fiber...s/60-Chevy.htm

[65Custom]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I would research that one piece window kit before pulling the trigger on it. I've heard some not so good reviews on their kit. I believe one of them was over on the '55-'59 forum

That is US Body Source.....they don't have a good reputation......

I don't know anything about them but I just put it out there for anyone.


On the one piece window kit, they don't give much information about what is included in the kit, but Custom trucks did the install with that kit and from the article they didn't have too much bad to say about it

It does require a lot of custom work and a bit of hacking up the doors and I'm not sure that I want to hack that much metal out of my doors

I'm still undecided but I really like the idea

[ruffrida2005]

I've heard from a lot of people on this forum that have done the one peice say that the window has to either be all the way up or all the way down when you drive. or the window will rattle since the top wont be held by anything if it's out of the door seal at top.

[65Custom]

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

I've heard from a lot of people on this forum that have done the one peice say that the window has to either be all the way up or all the way down when you drive. or the window will rattle since the top wont be held by anything if it's out of the door seal at top.

It makes sense that it could do that, since changing it over to a single piece of glass when it was not designed that way in the first place.
I suppose it really depends on how well it is designed and how it all gets installed as I understand it should have a guide at the front of the glass that is made from the original vent channel as a stabiliser for the glass to prevent that similar to the later models.

[65Custom]

Ok so I have talked to friend who is very knowledgeable about old cars he currently works for a resto shop in the area anyway he mentioned three things that could be causing the one piece glass to have issues when partially rolled up or down.

1. The thickness of the glass, the new tempered glass is thinner than back in the day when our trucks was built, So if the glass is newer then this can attribute to one issue

2. The weather striping, if the weather striping used is based on the thicker glass then the dampening affect that the weather striping provides may not be adequate. A different weather striping may be required

3. Using the original window mechanisms these become worn with age and are not tight as the day they were built and one solution would be that if you are going to put in a one piece Glass door that you may want to use a power window system. New mechanisms are not a loose and if you mount them properly they should work as intended.

4. Oh this is one that he mentioned that is a good little trick, some of the earlier cars like the camaro and Chevelle, & Cutlass etc had felt adjusters in the doors that guided the windows in the door to stop them from flopping around in the door.

Just thought that I would share some of his wisdom for what it is worth.

[LILRED66]

The primary reason for the instability of the one-piece glass is the mechanism. It operates in a single track, therefore it can fulcrum in the middle, where the glass is seated into the bottom channel. If the single piece glass was made to be longer at the bottom, allowing it to go deeper into the door shell at the bottom, the glass could be supported at the bottom edge and up each side a few inches, to eliminate the fulcrum effect, thus allowing the glass to be stable in the opening. After stripping over 100 doors to shells, it is easy to see, but if you haven't taken many apart, it may be difficult to understand and equally difficult for me to explain it.

[65Custom]

Originally Posted by LILRED66

The primary reason for the instability of the one-piece glass is the mechanism. It operates in a single track, therefore it can fulcrum in the middle, where the glass is seated into the bottom channel. If the single piece glass was made to be longer at the bottom, allowing it to go deeper into the door shell at the bottom, the glass could be supported at the bottom edge and up each side a few inches, to eliminate the fulcrum effect, thus allowing the glass to be stable in the opening. After stripping over 100 doors to shells, it is easy to see, but if you haven't taken many apart, it may be difficult to understand and equally difficult for me to explain it.

I think you also have another piece to the solution. I agree as this make a lots sense giving the glass more meat in the channel would help the stabalize the glass when partially up or down.

[Eagletucky]

I really like what you did with the floors. You have given me the inspiration i needed for my suburban. The floors are gone, along with the mounts and bracing. I have a fairly rust free truck cab that will give up its firewall and floors to live again in the burb. It may be a few months before I tackle this, but I wanted to let you know this thread was quite helpfull!

Thanks!

[65Custom]

Originally Posted by Eagletucky

I really like what you did with the floors. You have given me the inspiration i needed for my suburban. The floors are gone, along with the mounts and bracing. I have a fairly rust free truck cab that will give up its firewall and floors to live again in the burb. It may be a few months before I tackle this, but I wanted to let you know this thread was quite helpfull!

Thanks!

Thanks and if I can answer any question please let me know, I also love the burbs and would love to see a build thread for it.

[CSoliz]

65custom, WOW. The work you have done is outstanding. I have a few questions for you. About how many rivets were drilled out when you removed the airboxes? I have a lot of cancer up there as well. And, could you PM me where you got the cab corners.

Thanks and keep up the great work!

[gostranger]

awesome job nice work cant wait to see the progress thanks for giving the pictures

[65Custom]

Originally Posted by CSoliz

65custom, WOW. The work you have done is outstanding. I have a few questions for you. About how many rivets were drilled out when you removed the airboxes? I have a lot of cancer up there as well. And, could you PM me where you got the cab corners.

Thanks and keep up the great work!

Thanks I need all the support I can get, but there are many more on this site that deserve it more than I do.

For the spot welds there are about 50 or so spot welds per air box and then about 100 for the panel between the air boxes. Also remember that these were spot welded by hand and not computers so some times you may or may not find welds where they should be located

There are several ways to locate where the spot welds are located, none of them are better than the other it is just what works for you and your cab.

feel for the dimples, lightly sand or grind the pinch weld area and locate the low spots those are the spot welds, also visual inspection and and you will start to recognize where they are located. I also found that where you can placing you finger on the back side can also help locate the welds.

Tools that I recommend are a spot weld cutter and a steck tool

The spot weld cutter will be your best friend . It is double sided and has an adjustable center point for tension. To use it adjust the tension on the center point, then using a center punch, punch the approximate center of the spot weld and then place the center of the cutter in the punch mark. Then start using the cutter very slowly, this keeps you from cutting too deep and also dulling the cutter too quickly, cut for a few seconds and the remove the cutter to view the progress after some time you will get the feel of it and can do several pretty quickly it goes faster than you think it will.

one thing to note that sometimes when cutting through the first layer of metal you will notice a small puff of rust colored dust that is an indication that you have gone through the top layer of metal and it is time to stop cutting. Again go slow and take your time

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95343

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/stec...5-p-11711.aspx

one more thing to note sometimes what appears to be the center of a spot weld may not be where the metal is actually welded together, I found that sometimes the metal was actually welded off of the center of the dimple (I think this has to do with how a spot welder works) so this you won't know till you start trying to get the parts off don't worry just take your time and they will come off.

Originally Posted by gostranger

awesome job nice work cant wait to see the progress thanks for giving the pictures

Thanks

[CSoliz]

Originally Posted by 65Custom

Thanks I need all the support I can get, but there are many more on this site that deserve it more than I do.

For the spot welds there are about 50 or so spot welds per air box and then about 100 for the panel between the air boxes. Also remember that these were spot welded by hand and not computers so some times you may or may not find welds where they should be located

There are several ways to locate where the spot welds are located, none of them are better than the other it is just what works for you and your cab.

feel for the dimples, lightly sand or grind the pinch weld area and locate the low spots those are the spot welds, also visual inspection and and you will start to recognize where they are located. I also found that where you can placing you finger on the back side can also help locate the welds.

Tools that I recommend are a spot weld cutter and a steck tool

The spot weld cutter will be your best friend . It is double sided and has an adjustable center point for tension. To use it adjust the tension on the center point, then using a center punch, punch the approximate center of the spot weld and then place the center of the cutter in the punch mark. Then start using the cutter very slowly, this keeps you from cutting too deep and also dulling the cutter too quickly, cut for a few seconds and the remove the cutter to view the progress after some time you will get the feel of it and can do several pretty quickly it goes faster than you think it will.

one thing to note that sometimes when cutting through the first layer of metal you will notice a small puff of rust colored dust that is an indication that you have gone through the top layer of metal and it is time to stop cutting. Again go slow and take your time

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95343

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/stec...5-p-11711.aspx

one more thing to note sometimes what appears to be the center of a spot weld may not be where the metal is actually welded together, I found that sometimes the metal was actually welded off of the center of the dimple (I think this has to do with how a spot welder works) so this you won't know till you start trying to get the parts off don't worry just take your time and they will come off.



Thanks

That's great. Thank you for taking the time.

[65Custom]

I found this on CL today some guy looking for a vintage Air unit and he put this pic up of how he is running his lines. It took me a moment to get it because of how the pic was taken

I think that this is an interesting idea but I'm not sure about running the lines where the tires could interfere with the lines or even get damaged in a blow out.

I am planning on hiding everything as much as possible but I know there is a limit to what you can do, especially if your running a later model engine with all the electronics.

Anyway here is an idea if anyone is interested.

[70 Suburban]

i like it i may try somthin like that

[65Custom]

Originally Posted by 70 Suburban

i like it i may try somthin like that

I think it is a cool idea I'm just trying to figure out what would be the best way to runs the hoses to that point. I guess I will have check that out once I get there but I'm a long way from there.

[65Custom]

to

[65Custom]

Well it was a rather cloudy and overcast day here with prospects of rain later on so while it was half way decent I ran over to the parts truck and removed the front bumper brackets and bumper.

So I almost have everything I need related to hard parts but I'm still looking for a couple of items.

While I was there I took a couple of shots of some future projects my friend has stored, the 56 Buick's are sold but one of the Riviera's may become a Road Rally car he has some really cool ideas for it, I hope he builds it, lately with the economy being the way it he is a little down on his luck but he is surviving so this project may be on hold for awhile.

[65Custom]

I haven't been doing much lately. recently cleaned up the garage and moved things around space is at a premium and This time of year with the cold weather, work and tax filing season coming up I have been busy, but I have been getting a few goodies that I need to keep moving.

I got my wiring harness and the insulation, sound deader and spray gun, also got a new creeper.

The spray on sound deadening and insulation material I thought would be a better way of doing mine since the other forms of insulation and heat protection is done with a foil backed mat that is glued to the metal, I felt that would be a problem in the future if you have to do any work to remove that glued on mess would be pain. I already experienced something like that on mine already and it was not a fun task to remove it.

The PO patched the floors with sheet metal and sheet metal screws and a layer of some rubberized material that stuck to the floor I'm sure that it was water proof but not the right way to do a repair.

One more item I received is one of the custom touches that I am planning stay tuned to see what happens with this little item.