47-55.1 AD wiring

[dsraven]

gigamax, have you tried LED bulbs? they may lite up better, dunno. they do draw less and may not allow the signal flasher to blink or it may blink really slow. a transistorized flasher unit may work if that is the case. the stock signal stat relies on the amp draw to heat up a bimetallic spring until it bends away from a set of contacts inside the flasher, then when the spring cools it bends back and reconnects the contacts and starts all over again. the transistorized ones have a set number of flashes per minute regardless of the draw (up to a point, some will have those specs, like for a semi truck that has many trailers behind it). some amber bulbs also have a deeper colour tone to them.

did you get the answer for how the stop/turn/tail lights are wired?
it uses a dual element bulb
tail lights are one element in the bulb and are seperate from the front marker light circuit usually
stop and turn share the other element in the bulb and the turn signal switch figures that out for you. that is why the stop light switch is inline with the turn signal switch

[Matt_50]

Thanks for the info, I did keep the junction box from donor. Looks exact same. I think I'll print the chart too.

I'll measure and plan the routing then touch back on here to make sure I'm right with my choices. I got a couple small things I'm gonna try and finish and hopefully wiring can start after spring break.

[dsraven]

what have you got for engine? (stock starter, generator/alternator, voltage-6 or 12V, fuel injected or not, electric fuel pump or not, stock gauges and steering column or not, stock heater or not, a/c or not, air bags with compressor or not, power seats and windows/locks or not?)
what do you plan for your truck, stock rebuild, daily driver, custom?

[Matt_50]

Dsraven let me know if I'm missing anything.

Engine: Crate engine I had in 84 c10. Low miles. 6 years old. Not a hot rod engine.
12v
Mechanical fuel pump.
Electric choke Holley carburetor.
Alternator.
HEI distributor.
Kept starter on it.

May need to use electric fan. Radiator is ordered, will check clearances.
I think I'm going with 5 inch quad Dolphin gauges, not 100% sure yet. I think I would need to add turn signal and headlight light notification lights. Mechanical Speedo.

I will buy one of the heater kits from the catalogs.
Will want to add a/c. Maybe wait and get an all in one kit. Heater/ a/c... they have those right?
Column is from a 70 c10. So ignition not in column, key wanted, no push start. Has hazards switch.
Manual locks and windows.
Radio, no subwoofers and stuff though.
Probably electric wipers.
Would like a charging outlet for phone.
No air bags or compressor.
Manual seats.

Daily driver. To and from work. I drove donor/the c10. Wife has the new car, when we are both home all our other driving is in new car. So no highways or long trips in the truck.

[Matt_50]

I'm trying to get my wish list sorted out.

I'm looking at the universal ignition switches again and was wondering how many positions I needed.

Same question on the headlight switch. I'm assuming a 3 position means on, off and high.. right? Some do not tell me how many positions they have but does say it has a park position?? What's this exactly?

Just to double check, I think you guys were saying I needed 30 amp switches.. correct?

Here's what I have found as far as universal, the headlamp is a 3 position and the ignition is a 4.

As far as relays are concerned... I'm looking at some kits, not sure if it's better to go a kit route or cobble stuff up myself.

[joedoh]

a three position headlight switch will be off-park-headlights. to have low/high beam you need a low/high beam switch, either a floor stomp or a turn stalk clicker.

the minimum you need for a ignition switch is off-ign-start. some have off-acc-ign-start or acc-off-ign-start. an ignition switch is a high current switch but you will wantto use it to turn on different circuits in the fusebox, because if you wire everything to the switch and your wipers get a short, everything and I mean everything shuts off

[Matt_50]

So I need a switch that specifically says low/high?

[Matt_50]

What amperage am I looking for in my switches?

How about this?

[Matt_50]

So here's a real AD dummy question.

Can someone give me a quick run down on the front lights on a 1950 truck?

So, there's the headlights in the fenders... duel filament right? Original dimmer switch activated high beams?

Lights inside the grille.. are these the factory turn signals? Why do some trucks have extra lights mounted on top of fenders?

Am I missing anything? Im asking because I was wondering what my switch would do on this truck.

[MIKESAD50]

Matt, you are correct on the headlights. the lights in the grille are running lights, turn signals were not factory equipped in the 50's. not sure year they became factory equipped.
I used aftermarket LED front marker/turn signal lights. you can also get them that use a dual filament bulb and wire marker light and turn signals.

[jweb]

I just finished wiring my '51 with an EZ wiring harness. There are a few things to think about when you do your lights.

Steering column - If you are using a newer GM or Ididit column it's easy to do. The EZ kit includes a flat plug that will attach to the columns stock wiring. I don't know what's involved with a different style column.

Dimmer Switch - Usually a floor mount switch like this to control your brights. This wil also plug right in to the EZ harness.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...itch,2370.html

Headlights/ Relay - I highly recommend the Cibie headlights and using a relay.
https://www.amazon.com/Cibie-082440-.../dp/B008DQV88Q

I used a relay kind of like this, don't remember the exact one: https://www.amazon.com/2-Headlight-H...70_&dpSrc=srch

Front park lights/ turn signals - If get LED,you will need no load flashers. Or stock style like these:
https://www.classicparts.com/1947-53...ctinfo/47-012/

Headlight switch - It looks like you have this figured out. I just used a stock '68 Chevy truck switch.

[Matt_50]

I've got a 1970 column. And if I don't go the dimmer switch route, then I need a high/low headlight switch.

[jweb]

I just noticed the headlight switch you showed above is 4 position, the 4th being brights. I've never seen that before. You wouldn't need a dimmer switch but you will need to figure out the difference in the wiring which shouldn't be too difficult. There are only 3 wires that go to the dimmer switch.

[Matt_50]

I'm not making a harness from scratch, I just don't know enough yet to tackle that. But by using a premade harness, I just need to worry about what stuff I buy to plug into it.

What size relays and what's amps and stuff I need for switches.

[Matt_50]

Do I need to crimp AND solder AND heatshrink EVERYTHING?

[jweb]

Originally Posted by Matt_50

Do I need to crimp AND solder AND heatshrink EVERYTHING?

You will get a lot of different opinions on this one. I will never solder again, I use non-insulated connectors and a ratcheting crimp tool. Then quality shrink tubing. Here's a good article on wiring: http://www.speedhunters.com/2015/09/...htmare-part-1/

[dsraven]

I am in the jweb camp.

-use non insulated connectors. that way you can see the quality of the crimp plus the harness isn't affected as badly by the bulk of the extra material. I have seen the insulated crimps fail and when cut apart the "tube" of the connector was mis-shaped or crimped right on the end of the tube etc. it is impossible to see the quality of the crimp with the plastic cover over the barrel
-sometimes it is a good idea to have a quality stripper that is JUST a stripper but does a very good, clean cut of the insulation without cutting the wire. make sure to know the gage of the wire you are stripping and then use the right size stripping tool
-use the proper crimping tool. some crimpers will just use 2 flat spots to crimp the barrel of the connector. I have not had good luck with this style. personally I like the style of crimper that has a 1/2 round style receiver on one side and a pokey part on the other side that will indent the barrel of the connector. just don't over crimp with this style
-if crimping in tight quarters think about the tool and where the crimping part will end up when using the tool. I have several types, some with the crimp part on the nose, for hard to reach areas, and some with the crimp part between the handles, for better leverage when tight quarters is not an issue. most ratchet types have the crimp parts on the nose. if tight quarters is an issue then you also don't really want a pair of pliers on the end of the crimper, that would waste space. practice a few crimps before going to work on the final copy.
-use proper crimping tool, something that won't allow an overcrimp
-strip the wire to the correct length
-ensure all the wire strands end up inside the connector tube
-don't twist the stripped wire to get it inside the connector, if possible, because wherever the wires run across each other and get crimped down becomes a spot where they can possibly break under tension. think about it, the strand becomes quite a bit thinner due to the stacked wire in the crimp
-use double wall shrink tube and ensure there is ample length. double wall is like hot glue on the inside so it helps seal the joint. it also comes in different colors to match wire and will be available in long lengths for better pricing
-use a heat gun to shrink the tube, instead of a lighter or flame source, because the heat gun shouldn't overheat the tubing. too much heat will cause the plastic tubing to bubble and will probably end up stiff afterwards
-if doing a few wires in a harness, close together, try to stagger the joints so the wiring harness doesn't get too thick in one spot. also the loom will be able to handle the extra diameter

[Matt_50]

Ok, so...

Use non insulated connectors. Are some better than others?

Double wall shrink tubing. Radioshack?

Use good wire strippers and crimpers. I got some awesome wire strippers but I need a good recommendation on a good crimper.

Do not twist strands.. hadn't thought of this one before..


Is there anywhere where I would solder with a brand new harness?

[jweb]

Originally Posted by Matt_50

Ok, so...

Use non insulated connectors. Are some better than others?

Double wall shrink tubing. Radioshack?

Use good wire strippers and crimpers. I got some awesome wire strippers but I need a good recommendation on a good crimper.

Do not twist strands.. hadn't thought of this one before..


Is there anywhere where I would solder with a brand new harness?

Crimper- I bought a different one locally but I really like to use a ratcheting crimper, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076ZGVGRM...=9550230520101


Non insulated connectors - https://www.amazon.com/Hestya-Non-In...70_&dpSrc=srch


Heat shrink tubing - https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-270Pcs...k+tubing&psc=1

[Matt_50]

Thanks Jweb.

Next up, connecting to connectors. Is it better to remove the, are they called pins?, and run my wires straight to the connectors where ever possible?

[dsraven]

if you know what style of connectors you have then try online (amazon or whatever) for the proper ends to fit the connectors. a connection from wire to the connector, with no splices in between, is always the best option. these places will usually sell a bunch of different electrical stuff so you could do one stop shopping and get everything you need at one time.
there is also a cheap tool for removing the pins from the connectors. you gotta know what connector style first though.

[Matt_50]

I'll check my EZ wire box and see what came with it. For example I'm pretty sure I have the gm style column connector and headlight connectors.

Ignition and headlight switches have the wires go straight to them right?

[69l46vert]

I've used the same ratcheting crimper that jweb shows. It works great for almost everything but its not for weatherpack style connectors. For the weatherpacks, this one works pretty good for the money.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Matt_50]

Ok, I got a crimper and a heat gun coming.

So I got the headlight switch figured out. I need a 4 position.

I'm not sure what is best for me for the ignition switch.

[Matt_50]

Ok so I'm still not clear on my needed amp ratings for my switches. Relays would make the switches need less right?

So far I found through Haywire, a 4 position headlight switch 25 amps. And a 4 position ignition switch 60 amps.

Thoughts?