No Limit Pro-C10 chassis/truck build

[SierraMtns]

Any more updates?

[robnolimit]

we decided to upgrede from the OE master to a 1 1/16" bore 'vette type master and use 2 lb. check valves in each line. The valving isn't totally necessary, as the master is firewall mounted, but it does quicken up the pedal response. New lines were formed to connect to the #3 A.N. bulkheads on the chassis, and then the brakes were bled.

[robnolimit]

with the front drive and brakes done, we are just about ready to set the front clip back on. Next we will finish the fuel lines, and the shifter link needs to be re-fitted, then we'll be moving forward

[robnolimit]

For the air control system, we will be using a RideTech 4700 series controller. The control valve assembly will be mounted under the bed, behind the driver. The compressors will be under the bed, behind the passenger, and the air tank will be behind the seat. The chassis are ported so that all of the air lines are protected and run inside the frame.

[robnolimit]

To fit some wider rubber, we need to stretch the tubs. We decided to go with some glass tubbs from Munssey Speed. They are pretty nice, and will save a ton of time. To make the tubbs look natural in the bed, there is a bit of metal work to be done. The cut ribs need to be flattened down like the OE ribs for the tubbs. Also, with a 4" wider tubb, the tubb will sit on the top of the next rib, so we are cutting that rib out and putting in a flat piece.

[R.S.S.]

Incredible build. Really like the tips!

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by R.S.S.

Incredible build. Really like the tips!

Thanks, and no problem. Glad to do it and help out.

[robnolimit]

We try to prep all we can as we move along. With the fuel lines 100%, we can power up the pump and check for leaks. Way easier to solve now if there is a problem. No leaks, so we're good to go. The sheet metal prep work on the bed is done, with the tubb cut outs done and the new mounting holes drilled. Also, we dropped a ring area for the cool-cap fuel cap. The bed was coated with Line-X, and it will be touched up later.

** TIP: If you have to remove this stuff, get an old wood chisel, 1" to 1 1/2" wide, sharpen it up and hold it with vise grips. Heat the chisel blade with a butane torch until its orange, then slide it under the coating. You can get 8 or 10 square inches off before you have to heat it up again. **

[robnolimit]

Finally we set the bed on. Everything fit perfect and all of the bed bolts dropped right in. On our Pro-C10 chassis we move the bed forward 3/4" to close up the gap from the bed/cab. The OE gap was there to protect the bed/cab from paint and body damage due to chassis flex. With the new chassis and greatly reduced flex we can run this a little closer and clean up the look a bit. For the pict in the bed the wheel tubbs are just sitting there, as is the fuel cap. But it gives you an idea of what the finish bed will look like.

[Advanced Design]

I've noticed you connect the front stabilizer bar to the upper control arm. Is that to keep the link away from the tie rods?

Great chassis, and a very nice build.

I stumbled across a ton of your product info on the No Limit website. Double clicking tech center did the trick. Maybe that is an I pad thing. Anyway, wow, you have a tremendous amount of ingenious ideas. Great products.

[Goats86]

Hello Rob,

Being a glutton for punishment, I am considering building a new chassis for my 86 c10. I assume you are building this frame about 34" wide based on the location of frame horns in relation to the frame rails and the appearance of the frame not curving in towards the motor just in front of the cab. If I am correct in this guess, does your wideride IFS come in a "generic" version that is trimmed to fit width wise?

Thanks, Brian

[robnolimit]

Yes, we do have a standard 34" version of the Wide Ride IFS

[smbrouss70]

Any more progress? I can't wait to see this thing sitting on it's wheels.

[robnolimit]

Finally. We had some issues with the tire/wheel combo that stalled the project for a while. But, those are now solved. I never thought mounting a set of tires could be such an ordeal. Now, on the wheel/tire combo. these are Schott 22 x 9 fronts and 22 x 12 rears. the tires are Pirelli 265/30/22 front, and 325/25/22 rear. Both front and rear are 28" overall diameter. So far, test drives are showing a much better ride than I even expected. (thanks to the RideTech Shockwaves no doubt) Brakes are equal to the J.T. (and it has a more aggressive pad) and the road feel ans feedback is fantastic. Monday we will do a full nut/bolt check after the weekend of driving, and then we will get some video for you.
BTW, the Black Widow mufflers sound sweet. smooth at idle, no drone when cruising, and a healthy bark and growl when you lean on it.

[Bennett68C10]

Beautiful truck. If you don't mind me asking, what was the problem with mounting up the tires? I suspect I may be dealing with a similar issue!

[robnolimit]

The customer ordered the wheels from Schott, and the tires from Tire Rack. As it turned out, the wheel hoops were too big. Schott gets there hoops from a few sources, so it was hard to know where they were from. When we finally I.D.'d the problem, the wheels were sent back to Schott, where they had to cut the centers out and put them into new hoops. Schott re-polished the wheels and then mounted the tires and sent them back to us. I have to give them credit for standing behind their product. it took a while, but they made it right 100%

[Trackman101]

What is the weight of this chassis? How much more than stock?
Can a LS3 with a low mount a/c set up fit between the rails?

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by Trackman101

What is the weight of this chassis? How much more than stock?
Can a LS3 with a low mount a/c set up fit between the rails?

Our Pro-C10 chassis weigh in at appx 785 lbs. That includes the gear set, front 12" brakes, and rear 11.5" disk kit. This weight also includes a fuel tank. This is the weight from a chassis (complete roller) that we just weighed for shipping the other day. From notes, the complete O.E. chassis with suspension weighs in at appx 860 lbs. This may surprise some of you. Yes, our chassis (bare frame) is heavier than the O.E. frame by almost 80 lbs, but our suspension components are much lighter. So we have a stronger platform with less un-sprung weight.

The low A/C will mount in, it's very tight, but, the plumbing will not connect. There is an aftermarket mount that pulls the compressor in a little bit, and there are a few people (Doc's Blocks) working on a 90* mount adapter for the pump.

[1971_c10]

Hi all, hope Rob doesn't mind me posting a few shots of my project to give you guys some more ideas on the Pro-C10 chassis. I also have the Pro-C10 chassis, except I have coil-overs and the raised rear rail with drop spindles up front. These shots are mid-build so please excuse the lack of several body features and tape on the body.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 1971_c10

Hi all, hope Rob doesn't mind me posting a few shots of my project to give you guys some more ideas on the Pro-C10 chassis. I also have the Pro-C10 chassis, except I have coil-overs and the raised rear rail with drop spindles up front. These shots are mid-build so please excuse the lack of several body features and tape on the body.

Nice looking build. What are the wheel & tire sizes for reference?

[1971_c10]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Nice looking build. What are the wheel & tire sizes for reference?

Thanks SCOTI!

Here are my wheel specs:
Front - 275/40/18 on an 18x9 rim with 4.75" backspace
Rear - 295/40/18 on an 18x10 rim with 5.75" backspace

I am in the process of tubing the rear, but no major mods to the front. So far everything fits under the stock inner fenders up front (well, minus the need to cut out for the shock tower). I need to pull the springs and put the suspension at various heights and run the rack through its range, but visual look at ride height on the ground looks like plenty of clearance all around.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 1971_c10

Thanks SCOTI!

Here are my wheel specs:
Front - 275/40/18 on an 18x9 rim with 4.75" backspace
Rear - 295/40/18 on an 18x10 rim with 5.75" backspace

I am in the process of tubing the rear, but no major mods to the front. So far everything fits under the stock inner fenders up front (well, minus the need to cut out for the shock tower). I need to pull the springs and put the suspension at various heights and run the rack through its range, but visual look at ride height on the ground looks like plenty of clearance all around.

For others reference, that's approx. 26.6"/F & 27.3"/R tire height.
Good looking set-up. Do you have a build thread that I missed?

[1971_c10]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

For others reference, that's approx. 26.6"/F & 27.3"/R tire height.
Good looking set-up. Do you have a build thread that I missed?

No build thread on here just yet. But was just thinking I need to get one going. I've been using a Facebook page as a pseudo build thread since it is so easy to post updates straight from my phone and I don't need to resize photos to get them to show up right, but that only services a certain crowd. I'll see if I can get something going this week.

[Chumly223]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

I would do both, the upper and lower. The OE upper isn't a very smooth operating unit, kinda chunky. The steering will feel a lot cleaner with two.

good info will put this to use

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by 1971_c10

Hi all, hope Rob doesn't mind me posting a few shots of my project to give you guys some more ideas on the Pro-C10 chassis. I also have the Pro-C10 chassis, except I have coil-overs and the raised rear rail with drop spindles up front. These shots are mid-build so please excuse the lack of several body features and tape on the body.

Looks great. When it's done, get some picts the way we have been doing in the "stance guide" section of our web site, and the info, and we'll add your truck in. Bag full O' swag is the reward.