Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10

[kingsolver72]

Brian, you’re doing good! Glad you got the engine fired up.

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by kingsolver72

Brian, you’re doing good! Glad you got the engine fired up.

I appreciate that Scott. I'm still hunting for 3 more correct wheels so I can proudly display those sweet P03's! (thanks to YOU!)

[kingsolver72]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

I appreciate that Scott. I'm still hunting for 3 more correct wheels so I can proudly display those sweet P03's! (thanks to YOU!)

Sometimes it takes a while but, those wheels will show up just like Candid Camera, when you least expect it.
You sure have been keeping yourself busy... that’s a good thing.. I hope.

[Kronald_70GMC]

Congrats on ignition! That must feel great!

[MDPotter]

Awesome, glad to hear you got it running!

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by kingsolver72

Sometimes it takes a while but, those wheels will show up just like Candid Camera, when you least expect it.
You sure have been keeping yourself busy... that’s a good thing.. I hope.

That was my favorite show as a young kid! When I read your comment I heard the shows jingle play through in my head. I had a flashback of me sitting on the floor while my mom ironed my dads shirts and watched Candid Camera. That was 45 years ago.... Wow... time passes exponentially faster every day. It's my goal to redeem my time left on better things and causes than I used to... Lord knows I spent lots of my younger days in the wrong mindset.

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

Glad you got it figured out!

Thanks TA_C10, Your hard work has certainly been an inspiration to stay at it. I always look forward to your posts.

Originally Posted by Kronald_70GMC

Congrats on ignition! That must feel great!

It does Kyle!

Originally Posted by MDPotter

Awesome, glad to hear you got it running!

Thanks Potter, I only ran it for a total of maybe 20 seconds since there is no coolant in it yet. Today I hope to get it up to temp. and see if I can plug in my Dakota gauges to get some readings. I don't know what all is involved other than plugging the gauges into the OBDII port. I'll need to read up on it first.

[TA_C10]

Glad you got it figured out!

[TA_C10]

My PCM had the gear indicator configured from factory. It was actually from a 6.0 engine but minor differences from 5.3. The 4l60e neutral safety switch is attached to the gear drive so it reads what gear the vehicle is in therefore translating that data to the PCM. If you install that neutral safety switch on your trans(even if you use the neutral safety on your column instead, this is what sends the gear indicator signal. I can't imagine a PCM not being setup to read gear indicator in your setup as mine is an older GEN III

[sprint_9]

Glad to see you got it going, and an easy fix is always nice to have.

[cornerstone]

Thank you Sprint.

Driveshaft: I need one. I've contacted a local company here in Ft Worth called American Driveshaft & Gear Specialists and plan on them making it for me. I need to choose a slip yoke for the 6L80e. Any opinions on which one? Are the 4L80e yokes the same as the 6L80e? As far as the back U joint that would be a 1310, correct? My plans for this truck are to be a daily driver, so are there any opinions on the material of driveshaft? I don't expect I'll ever want more than 450 hp.... or should I say I'll never be able to afford more than 450 hp. Aluminum is cool of course, but I won't be staring at it while I'm driving, so unless y'all know a reason I need that I'll probably go with steel.

My original 2 piece driveshaft is in great condition, any chance that could be shortened and used, either with or without the carrier bearing?

Any help will be appreciated!

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

Thank you Sprint.

Driveshaft: I need one. I've contacted a local company here in Ft Worth called American Driveshaft & Gear Specialists and plan on them making it for me. I need to choose a slip yoke for the 6L80e. Any opinions on which one? Are the 4L80e yokes the same as the 6L80e? As far as the back U joint that would be a 1310, correct? My plans for this truck are to be a daily driver, so are there any opinions on the material of driveshaft? I don't expect I'll ever want more than 450 hp.... or should I say I'll never be able to afford more than 450 hp. Aluminum is cool of course, but I won't be staring at it while I'm driving, so unless y'all know a reason I need that I'll probably go with steel.

My original 2 piece driveshaft is in great condition, any chance that could be shortened and used, either with or without the carrier bearing?

Any help will be appreciated!

You heard of LSX Unlimited in Ft. Worth? Those guys are LS guru's. And they do lot's of other things like race cars and etc. I always ask them advice on where they send their work out to. They sent me to automotive driveline supply in Hurst. They did a great job. Fast work. Knowledgeable. Not to say the company your going with isn't but it's another option just in case.

Anyway, they were the ones that told me out the slip yoke issue I ran into. Best advice is to remove the tailshaft housing on your trans and double check what's installed. I bought my own yoke off the interwebs and didn't know what I was doing and got one with a weep hole. Well im sure you saw my post on that. All fixed now. But it would have been nice to do it right the first time.

I'm no expert, but I would verify your setup on your trans before you order a yoke. And the driveline place should be able to get you the yoke rather than purchasing one outside source.

If you already know all this, then ignore my .02

.

[MDPotter]

Do you not already have a yoke? Regardless, any reputable driveline shop should be able to help you with the driveshaft, slip yoke, pinion yoke, and u-joints.

Also, if you don't already have one, you should get a new pinion yoke and seal.

I had a local driveline shop make my 1-piece steel driveshaft.

[cornerstone]

I stopped in to order a driveshaft and got sent back home to count the splines on the tail shaft. Having a wife that’s an art teacher has its perks every now and then. She had some clay that made that job much easier...

While I was out I picked up one of those gravity feed pneumatic media blasters from Harbor Freight. I need to get several small parts cleaned up for painting and thought I’d give it a try. I say 2 thumbs up! 20 bucks won’t get you much these days but this little sucker earns its keep. I filled the blasters hopper half way with fine grit coal slag and shot a hood hinge. Waaaay easier than hand sanding!

[TA_C10]

ouch on being sent home... and i won't lie, I bought new hinges "almost" for that reason.


.

[cornerstone]

I bought a transmission dipstick that was a bit too short for my preference. Since I hate returning things, and probably couldn’t anyway since they sent me exactly what I ordered, I’ll learn to love it. Where do you think would be better? Any other ideas out there? I suppose I can fill the AC and heater holes, but that’s a project I’d like to avoid... for those of you who have the Vintage Air setup, how much clearance is needed around the holes in the firewall?

[cornerstone]

Semi gloss black laid down pretty good.

[cornerstone]

This is the radiator that was last in use when I was running the original 350. It was a direct replacement for the small block. For the life of me I don’t remember what this thing I circled was for....

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

This is the radiator that was last in use when I was running the original 350. It was a direct replacement for the small block. For the life of me I don’t remember what it was for....

Is that trans cooler return line?

.

[TA_C10]

Hinges look good man. Wish I had a sandblaster. I'm re-using my hinge springs, I painted them same gloss black as well. The PO destroyed one hinge so i just bought 2 new ones...

And I like your trans dipstick

No really, mine is stock style, and it's functional, but looks terrible. You can hide yours and/or blend it in so it's not in your face like stock. And really, how often do you ever need access to it so I think your going to like your decision more once you get it finished. I like it to the right of the hoses, but I just finished watching a b!tch!n rides episode, season 4 episode 2 i think, and I noticed they used the same dipstick and mounted it to the engine block. You could probably attach it to the back of the engine head and still have enough access to fill maybe? That would be ideal to hide it. Depends on what you want I guess.

So here are a few pics I took today for you to see space available on my vintage setup. I still have my VA heater hose valve detached. If you mount it close to the firewall, you won't have as much room as I do. I mounted mine down on the inner wheel well so I could attach it to the inner fender well. But I have seen others mount it right up on the firewall. Or you could get crafty, and mount it inside the cab. I have seen others do that, and I would have done this had I thought about it.

Anyways, let me know if this link doesn't work. I didn't want to blast all these on your thread without asking

https://photos.app.goo.gl/cBEcfEfn5gQXdRE89

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

Hinges look good man. Wish I had a sandblaster. I'm re-using my hinge springs, I painted them same gloss black as well. The PO destroyed one hinge so i just bought 2 new ones...

And I like your trans dipstick

No really, mine is stock style, and it's functional, but looks terrible. You can hide yours and/or blend it in so it's not in your face like stock. And really, how often do you ever need access to it so I think your going to like your decision more once you get it finished. I like it to the right of the hoses, but I just finished watching a b!tch!n rides episode, season 4 episode 2 i think, and I noticed they used the same dipstick and mounted it to the engine block. You could probably attach it to the back of the engine head and still have enough access to fill maybe? That would be ideal to hide it. Depends on what you want I guess.

So here are a few pics I took today for you to see space available on my vintage setup. I still have my VA heater hose valve detached. If you mount it close to the firewall, you won't have as much room as I do. I mounted mine down on the inner wheel well so I could attach it to the inner fender well. But I have seen others mount it right up on the firewall. Or you could get crafty, and mount it inside the cab. I have seen others do that, and I would have done this had I thought about it.

Anyways, let me know if this link doesn't work. I didn't want to blast all these on your thread without asking

https://photos.app.goo.gl/cBEcfEfn5gQXdRE89

Wow!! Johnny on the spot with the pics! Very cool... Thanks! I think I like it to the right of the hoses also.

You raise a good point that I am guilty of... posting pictures on someone else’s thread. The way I see it the more the merrier, so post away directly on my thread. I figure if I’m putting it out for everyone to see, it no longer belongs to me. I think you’re right though, I should ask if it’s cool with the threads “owner”... still learning forum etiquette...

[May70]

Man I love seeing these project threads! A lot of modifications you are doing. Ill probably just end up going with a 350 and maybe ls years down the road when I have partially forgotten how much money I have in my truck. lol

[TA_C10]

I used the Kilmat product. 80mil 36sqft = $57 on Amazon. It was comparable to dynamat that the PO already had on the floor. That little box was enough for me to do back of cab, replace missing pieces I cut out of floor, all the way up the firewall, and I still have enough to do my doors. Sounds like the perfect amount for you as well since we both had floors done.

So whatever product you choose, 36sqft will be the right amount.

.

[cornerstone]

Thanks guys.

[notsolo]

I used Rattle trap, 50sqft....and 2 layers of close cell foam all under the dash and up the back....100sq ft...Looks like EZ cool is the closest to what I have.