72 K20 been parked for 31 years!!

[special-K]

I use Brakleen to cut that greasy crust off the drivetrain. It melts it right off. With the stuck cylinders,sounds like some great remedies. At least you don't have to worry about ruining the pistons since you definitely need to overbore.

[Vintage Windmills]

Pistons are out! I was able to unbolt most and tap a few mm's to get the bond broken but some wouldn't slide very far until I got it to spin due to clearance issues. All except 2 unbolted before it would spin, that was a nice feeling to see the crank turn. I think the fire method definitely helped since they seemed to slide right away when tapping on them unbolted. Course I had a steel rod and a 3lb hammer to do some coaxing. made me nervous tapping near the crank journals but I didn't touch it once with rod or hammer.

Speaking of the crank, there is some staining (rust) on there, but not enough to feel with fingernail. I'm assuming it would need to be reground? If so, that may make the stroker a more attractive option since I can't just use crank as is. Maybe steel wool (ultra fine) it if I have nothing to loose? Also, the bores look better than I thought they would, may not have to bore too much. Actually, it looks like bore amount may be dictated by the lines in the walls (see horizontal lines in 3rd pic). I think those are from the rings when I smacked with the hammer and wood block? I was surprised to see that! thought the walls would be more resilient than that.

[One Chevy Scotty]

Well, ya got it apart now... might as well do it right the first time.


...that project looks like a whole lotta fun....I am still wondering where you got squirrels small enough to get acorns in the exhaust ports

[DeadheadNM]

I don't know anything helpful as relates the motor but this is turning into a motivational build thread for me. I've got a K20 motor w 54k miles caked in a hard shell of west Texas greasy dirt. Keep going!

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

I don't know anything helpful as relates the motor but this is turning into a motivational build thread for me. I've got a K20 motor w 54k miles caked in a hard shell of west Texas greasy dirt. Keep going!

Thanks! This is the first chevy engine I'v rebuilt so I'm definitely having to take it slow and ask questions

[SS Tim]

Gear Vendors O/D, now that is a good idea.

[DeadheadNM]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

Gear Vendors O/D, now that is a good idea.

I'm not familiar with these and am trying to decide whether or not to keep the non-original TH350 in my K20 OR go with a built 700R4. Any benefit to going with the Gear Vendors O/D other than preserving an original type tranny and not relocating motor mounts?

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

I'm not familiar with these and am trying to decide whether or not to keep the non-original TH350 in my K20 OR go with a built 700R4. Any benefit to going with the Gear Vendors O/D other than preserving an original type tranny and not relocating motor mounts?

Absolutely there are benefits. It splits gears, meaning your Th350 truck becomes a 6 speed (with overdrive). this means you accelerate faster and keep your engine in peak torque range all the time. On a 4x4 their stock their kit only works in 2wd. I see they make a race version that goes between tcase and tranny though you have to remount your tcase. For more info see http://www.gearvendors.com/index.html

[DeadheadNM]

Great to know! These look pricey but attractive. I bookmarked their website.

So, if I go with a 700R4 AND the OD that gives me an 8 speed and I'll be turning low 2k's at 200 mph with the 411s in my HO52 while towing a flat bed trailer Sweet.

[SS Tim]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Great to know! These look pricey but attractive. I bookmarked their website.

So, if I go with a 700R4 AND the OD that gives me an 8 speed and I'll be turning low 2k's at 200 mph with the 411s in my HO52 while towing a flat bed trailer Sweet.

Might not be the best idea, but it is doable. High drag or heavy vehicles have trouble with double overdrive gears. You did the numbers and saw a big RPM drop. But with that comes a drop in HP and TQ. Add in the fact that the vehicle needs more power to go fast and the increased driveline friction, well available power much less economy disappear fast. My '99 Camaro SS w/T56 has two O/D gears in a slippery chassis, but roll on isn't really too good in 6th. However it cruises nice at 70 @1700 getting 22+MPG. 5th gear gets used a lot in traffic and on the long hills. If you are running hard 5-6 is about 110.
Spending the money for an O/D is good in only few ways. The biggest is reduced RPM and a likely MPG increase when properly geared. Also splitting gears to reduce RPM drop is great when pulling a load and even better on a grade. You get better performance and sometimes better overall MPG numbers as a result.
Last thing to consider is driveline speed. The faster the shafts and gears rotate the more vibration and wear can be expected. Truck drivelines don't like spinning 6K.

[mcbassin]

Looks like someone needs to go ahead and start a build thread
Very nice piece of history! That was a beast in it's time. Can't wait to see you get it back on the road. BTW, I have a home for those slots if you get tired of them......

[doubleb's69]

If you are going to build a stroker I wouldn't use the "stock" heads that were on the engine you pulled from the truck. They are most likely 882 heads so they are 1.94/1.50 valves and 76 cc chambers. That engine needs to breathe better than that. If you're worried about your stock crank you could ask a local machine shop if it would polish out with out having to grind it. Just my 2 cents. Killer truck and looking forward to seeing it come together.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by doubleb's69

If you are going to build a stroker I wouldn't use the "stock" heads that were on the engine you pulled from the truck. They are most likely 882 heads so they are 1.94/1.50 valves and 76 cc chambers. That engine needs to breathe better than that. If you're worried about your stock crank you could ask a local machine shop if it would polish out with out having to grind it. Just my 2 cents. Killer truck and looking forward to seeing it come together.

I have another stock crank now. These heads are 339X and are indeed 76cc. I did some more research and concluded that they will limit performance even in 2000-3000rpm range so I'm looking at a set of Vortech "Performance Improved" heads that allow perimeter valve cover mounting. Supposedly can get 330ft lbs with these, mild flat tappet cam so I'm thinking on doing this and not going 383. I will save money for gearvendors unit by using stock crank and not rollerizing valve train. Buying ZDDP oil isn't that big of a deal but having OD and gearsplitting would be

[Vintage Windmills]

Been rounding up parts, here are some nice original door panels I scored off ebay a few weeks ago: Now if i could find the matching armrests I'd be in better shape.

[Vintage Windmills]

Do you guys think I should turn this into a build thread and move to projects section or just start a new thread? I've got updates!

[bmfm64]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

Do you guys think I should turn this into a build thread and move to projects section or just start a new thread? I've got updates!

Convert this one for sure so we don't miss the update!

[Palf70Step]

I can move it to the projects area if you want to just keep adding on to this one.

Your choice.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

I can move it to the projects area if you want to just keep adding on to this one.

Your choice.

Sounds good, please do

[bmfm64]

come on your killin us, UPDATE! lol!

[Palf70Step]

You are now a "Project" sir.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

You are now a "Project" sir.

Thanks!

I found a rebuild kit for the waterpump and rebuilt it yesterday. Its a good feeling to have a component done, although its a small one. I figure if I break it up into components, the build will keep me motivated since I'll see more things 'finished' along the way. I am leaving the chassis together until all powertrain/driveline stuff is done. That way, I can drop the driveline in or just tear it down for a frameoff and still know the driveline is all set to go, fully rebuilt.

Engine is still at the machine shop, its been a couple weeks, think I'll call and see when it will be magnafluxed. Parts for tcase are on order at Napa so I can get it rebuilt this weekend. Next thing is that front driveshaft, thing looks a little complicated with that internal ball socket CV joint.

Pics coming soon...

[Dieselwrencher]

Great to hear you're making progress!

[Vintage Windmills]

Pics of the waterpump overhaul!

Also trans after I used my pressure washer sandblasting attachment I got from Northern tool. Sure worked well to get that baked grease/clay/tar trifecta off but sand was everywhere! Its amazing what 3200psi driven sand will do.

[Palf70Step]

Been a very long time since I have heard of someone rebuilding a water-pump. I kinda forgot you could do that.

Tranny looks Clean!!

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

Been a very long time since I have heard of someone rebuilding a water-pump. I kinda forgot you could do that.

Tranny looks Clean!!

Its pretty quick if you have access to a press and puller. Mainly just wanted to make sure I had the proper pump going back on and not "equivalent" I think rebuilding stuff is where the fun is, going to rebuild vs. replace as much as I can on this truck