Kabwe's aka Bam's build

[duallyjams]

No such thing as over kill , that's just normal in a car guys world.

[made2drag]

that's looking good man!

[El Campo]

Nice nice!

[VDOG]

Alright Bam, your being quiet, whats up, hows the truck coming along?

[Kabwe]

Originally Posted by El Campo

Nice nice!

Thanks man

Originally Posted by VDOG

Alright Bam, your being quiet, whats up, hows the truck coming along?

None of your biz, tell me how is your truck coming first, nosey dang.lol

Not much to report.

I bought some drilled and slotted rotors to match the ones I bought for the rear a long time back. I had a heck of a time finding them for a decent price for my IFS. Ebay sellers are tricky. The would post a decent price only to charge you 60 or 70 bucks to ship.lol They were making their money with the shipping.

Anyway not much to show but I got the suspension parts painted and the rotors installed.




Oh yeah let me share a pic of the 45 Chevy truck that I can't seem to stop helping out with.lol

[Jesse49chevy]

Hello Bam, congrats on all of your projects. It seems that there is nothing you can't tackle and make it look easy. Hope you don't mind, but I have a question. I'm working on my 48, a while back you gave me your opinion on the subframe I bought (73 camaro). You said that for your likings, it ran a bit wide. Well being that i was excited to finally get going, I bought it not thinking ahead or listening to your words of wisdom. Now that I cutoff the chassis and mocked up the clip, I realize what you meant. My desire is to have it nice and low, and it is obvious that I will have fender clearance and turning issues. Someone said I could run skinnies in the front (dang!!! Another question). I see some guys using S10 chassis. So here is my question(s). If I use the 73 camaro ifs, what are my limits or challenges in dropping it, what size tires should /could I use to get the results I desire. Also, I was brainstorming and was wondering, has anyone used the ifs off a S10, Blazer? Could I go that route instead and avoid having to use skinny tires? I appreciate any advise you can throw my way.... Below is some pics of what m working with...thanks
By the way, that's my right hand man in the pic....my best buddy measuring to make sure we hit that 116" on the dot....
Posted via Mobile Device
Posted via Mobile Device

[Kabwe]

Jesse49chevy,

I'm going to pm you my number and we can talk about options in detail. It you want to know about S10 stuff xpickup is a good person to ask because I've never done a frame swap it you are thinking of going that route.

So checkout your PM and give me a call.

[oldman3]

Bam, good to hear from you again, I was just thinking we hadn't hear from you in awhile...Jim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Bam,
Are you using automotive grade paint for those suspension parts? Or is it rattle can stuff? Whatever it is, it looks goood!

[Kabwe]

Originally Posted by oldman3

Bam, good to hear from you again, I was just thinking we hadn't hear from you in awhile...Jim

Thanks buddy its knowing really to report on the truck because xmas is here and no money will be sent on the truck until after the holidays. I have to give my kids great xmas's for their memories. You know how that is.lol But I have so much work to do that will not cost anything but time. But I have a shortage of that lately also.

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Bam,
Are you using automotive grade paint for those suspension parts? Or is it rattle can stuff? Whatever it is, it looks goood!

Dan,

The suspension parts were painted with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator thinned 20% with lacquer thinner and shot through a spray gun. I did not shot over rust I simply don't believe in doing that I just cleaned the parts up really nice sanded with 180 grit and shot them. Here is a pic of what they looked like in bare metal.

Why the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator? No reason other than I had some laying around not getting used and I wanted to see what it looked like. I like the flat black finish. It seems quite durable after it's cured and its easy to touch up. How durable? I don't know but its only control arms time will tell. I shot the frame with single stage satin black and that is very durable.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Kabwe

Dan,

The suspension parts were painted with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator....and... I like the flat black finish.

Uh....huh......Okaaay....but they're SILVER!

So you went over them w/an automotive paint or a single stage (cheaper)finish like Rustoleum w/ a hardner?

As for "not painting over rust" - I couldn't agree more BUT I have a question:

My doors have some rust-through (of course). I'm gonna cut it out and weld in patches. But that will not TOTALLY do away with all the rust.

So I'm thinking I either have to R&R the lower 4-6" of door skin, sand the rust off and replace the skin - a lot of work for a lousy welder, but I'm willing IF I can do it properly. Of course I'd use a weld-thru primer inside.

OR, I can cut out the rust-through and use that opening and the interior openings for my little Craftsman sandblaster and CAREFULLY blast the lower inside of the door before applying the KBS I have. I suppose I could just splash the interior of the door with Ospho for a day or two and THEN put the KBS on(?) What's your advice - given my limited abilities, NOT your very strong abilities?

[Kabwe]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Uh....huh......Okaaay....but they're SILVER!

So you went over them w/an automotive paint or a single stage (cheaper)finish like Rustoleum w/ a hardner?

As for "not painting over rust" - I couldn't agree more BUT I have a question:

My doors have some rust-through (of course). I'm gonna cut it out and weld in patches. But that will not TOTALLY do away with all the rust.

So I'm thinking I either have to R&R the lower 4-6" of door skin, sand the rust off and replace the skin - a lot of work for a lousy welder, but I'm willing IF I can do it properly. Of course I'd use a weld-thru primer inside.

OR, I can cut out the rust-through and use that opening and the interior openings for my little Craftsman sandblaster and CAREFULLY blast the lower inside of the door before applying the KBS I have. I suppose I could just splash the interior of the door with Ospho for a day or two and THEN put the KBS on(?) What's your advice - given my limited abilities, NOT your very strong abilities?

I don't believe in that limited abilities stuff. If you put your mind to it and ask questions you can do a fine job. You have the info now you just need the confidence. Take your time and do it right. Cut out the rust (not surface rust) that eat up stuff and weld in the new piece. You are correct that when I did my doors. I cut the bottoms out sanded all the surface rust off that I could reach, tape off where I would be welding, coated the interior of the door with some epoxy primer, removed the tape, welded together, then shot some zero rust down in the door as far as I could. Now my belief is you can't get too nutty about rust because there will always be areas you can't reach. It took over 50 years for my truck to rust the way it did and I doubt serious if I will be here another 50.lol If I am I will not be able to drive anyway.lol

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Kabwe

I don't believe in that limited abilities stuff. If you put your mind to it and ask questions you can do a fine job. You have the info now you just need the confidence.

I AGREE with you. I've always been able to do what I set my mind to. Perhaps not to someone else's standards, but I figure only MY standards count as I'm the one who spent the cash and has to live with the results! I just know that I want the things I do to come out perfect the first time. I'm impatient.

Originally Posted by Kabwe

.... my belief is you can't get too nutty about rust because there will always be areas you can't reach. It took over 50 years for my truck to rust the way it did and I seriously doubt if I will be here another 50.lol

Unfortunately, I won't be here either. I'm glad you wrote what you wrote. I'm gonna TRY to get everything I can so after it's done I'm proud of it and it doesn't gnaw at me knowing there's rust in there eating my baby! Thanks again, Bam!

[Daze57]

Dan in Pasadenea

'' I AGREE with you. I've always been able to do what I set my mind to. Perhaps not to someone else's standards, but I figure only MY standards count as I'm the one who spent the cash and has to live with the results! I just know that I want the things I do to come out perfect the first time. I'm impatient ''



Dan remember -''Patience is a virture until people make it a science ''

[Daze57]

+ Dan - it;ll all come out fine

[butchp]

Hey I went thru the build again and the only pictures of the fuel tank are where you painted it. could you take a picture of the rear view with bumper installed. Or can you tell me if you can see the tank below the bumper. It is time to get the tank. Thanks in advance.

[Kabwe]

Originally Posted by butchp

Hey I went thru the build again and the only pictures of the fuel tank are where you painted it. could you take a picture of the rear view with bumper installed. Or can you tell me if you can see the tank below the bumper. It is time to get the tank. Thanks in advance.

Its virtually the same tank that Chuckdriver has, at least its the same company and dimensions. Here is a link to his build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=334552

[CAL 58 GMC]

Hey my friend, what's been going on with the 58? I haven't seen any updates lately. Hope all is well and have a great New Years!

[Kabwe]

Originally Posted by CAL 58 GMC

Hey my friend, what's been going on with the 58? I haven't seen any updates lately. Hope all is well and have a great New Years!

Hey man everything is going fine, no updates on the truck I been busy with my honey do's list. I wish you a great New Years also.

[Chevette]

Originally Posted by Kabwe

Hey man everything is going fine, no updates on the truck I been busy with my honey do's list. I wish you a great New Years also.

This is what I like to do with the "Honey Do" list.

[Kabwe]

Originally Posted by Chevette

This is what I like to do with the "Honey Do" list.

Yeah right, man I'm trying to stay married.lol

I did get the fuel lines done. I was going to go with all hard line until I tried to bend 3/8 stainless steel.lol I damn near got a hernia.lol So what I did was run braided stainless steel lines on all the bends and curves in the rear and then ran a 37 degree flared hardline to the front that is a straight shot. It came out pretty nice. I will post pics when I get a chance to get back in the garage.

I have a lot of stainless steel tubing left that I will use on other areas of the truck when I get a better tube bender.

[Chevette]

Originally Posted by Kabwe

Yeah right, man I'm trying to stay married.lol

I did get the fuel lines done. I was going to go with all hard line until I tried to bend 3/8 stainless steel.lol I damn near got a hernia.lol So what I did was run braided stainless steel lines on all the bends and curves in the rear and then ran a 37 degree flared hardline to the front that is a straight shot. It came out pretty nice. I will post pics when I get a chance to get back in the garage.

I have a lot of stainless steel tubing left that I will use on other areas of the truck when I get a better tube bender.

For the "frame to the caliper" I bought "Stop-Tech" braided stainless lines. I will use good quality nickel/alloy from the master to the braided. I figure with the limited amount that I will drive the truck, nickel lines will outlast me and after I'm dead and gone, I could give a rats behind what happens to my replacement.

[ZR2RICK]

Nice to see you back at it, say can you tell me what made you decide to use a parallel 4 link? I'm trying to decide on weather to just use blocks and air over leafs like "58 GMC" or a triangulated ,parallel, or wishbone type link set up, my chief concern is maintaining fender clearance ( i have 1/2" )through 5-6" of travel since I intend to bag the rear also, and I know the parallel set up allows some lateral movement but can't seem to find any info on how much?

[Kabwe]

Originally Posted by ZR2RICK

Nice to see you back at it, say can you tell me what made you decide to use a parallel 4 link? I'm trying to decide on weather to just use blocks and air over leafs like "58 GMC" or a triangulated ,parallel, or wishbone type link set up, my chief concern is maintaining fender clearance ( i have 1/2" )through 5-6" of travel since I intend to bag the rear also, and I know the parallel set up allows some lateral movement but can't seem to find any info on how much?

The number one reason I went to a four link was to avoid wheel hop. Now if I were doing it again I would have went with a triangular link system. I just like them better. With the parallel setup you have to use a panhard bar to avoid lateral movement.

Originally Posted by VDOG

Hey I have been looking for one of those flaring tool thing-a-mug-jigs to use when im flaring my mufflers and intake manifold. Can I borrow it?
LMAO!!!!!

You are to be ignored.lol Anybody that thinks they can flare a muffler with that tool needs to seek psychiatric help.lol

[VDOG]

Originally Posted by kabwe

you are to be ignored.lol anybody that thinks they can flare a muffler with that tool needs to seek psychiatric help.lol

lol!