Help a NOOB - A continuing saga

[ncpetersc]

Okay, running into some brick walls:

Wall 1: The shop. I Finally got a hold of them this morning and that went like most of you probably would guess. They insist the carb was rebuilt and that it's the junk in the fuel supply that is causing it flood. They claim to have replaced the filter, that I again replaced (and found crud in) a week later. So I can't doubt that I guess. But I mentioned some of your opinions on the general appearance that it wasn't cleaned/dipped/rebuilt and he insists that it absolutely was. He also said the carb was "destroyed" inside from junk and rust, I think he probably should have told me that when I picked up the truck! He offered to refund $100 bucks 'for my trouble', I guess for all the other sloppy things I found (spark plug disconnected, plug wires melting on exhaust, distributor loose, unplugged ports, vac pulloff not even plugged in). We'll see if that happens, better than nothing I suppose. But anyway, at least I know one place NOT to go now. Would be nice to find a trustworthy place, but I am motivated to try to do more on my own now I guess.

Wall 2: A rebuilt carb. http://www.guaranteedcarburetors.com...0-chevy-truck/ really looked like what I needed, but my exact number 7042210 was not listed so I called them up. They do not have that exact carb available. So I want to ask opinions of another vendor UnitedCarb.com as they appear to have the exact one. But a question as well, just how important is it to match this # exactly? The one from GuaranteedCarb sure looks like a match. Would it work?

I want to have a quality rebuilt carb available, but maybe still take a peek in the top of mine at least to look for the potential assembly issues like the float clip. And the shop owner is probably right anyway, I agree that I need to evaluate and address any potential fuel tank issues. So I need to come up with a plan for that.

But, main question, any experiences with UnitedCarb?

Thanks.

[ncpetersc]

Also found one on e-bay, rebuilt by Lonestar Carburetor's in San Antonio. Any opinions on them?

Thanks.

[AussieinNC]

IMO, while it would be nice to exactly match the version numbers from current carb to the replacement carb...there is really no need to exactly match...

So long as the linkages and fittings are all there and the carb is "suitably jetted for your application", you should be good.

Besides, how do you know the current carb is actually the original factory carb for the truck?..

Given your issue with dirt etc in the fuel system, I would be installing an in line metal case fuel filter after the fuel pump...

I would also be considering replacing the fuel tank...LMC have them for around $150 plus shipping...

There are also treatments you can put into the tank to contain the rust etc...but a new tank may be the best way to go.

Maybe even go the whole hog and replace the fuel lines and fuel pump as well...

Rust is the biggest enemy of fuel systems...as you are finding out...

Stay cool mate...

[ncpetersc]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

IMO, while it would be nice to exactly match the version numbers from current carb to the replacement carb...there is really no need to exactly match...

So long as the linkages and fittings are all there and the carb is "suitably jetted for your application", you should be good.

Besides, how do you know the current carb is actually the original factory carb for the truck?..

Given your issue with dirt etc in the fuel system, I would be installing an in line metal case fuel filter after the fuel pump...

I would also be considering replacing the fuel tank...LMC have them for around $150 plus shipping...

There are also treatments you can put into the tank to contain the rust etc...but a new tank may be the best way to go.

Maybe even go the whole hog and replace the fuel lines and fuel pump as well...

Rust is the biggest enemy of fuel systems...as you are finding out...

Stay cool mate...

Thanks AussieinNC, I want to try to make a decision on the carb today, might throw a dart to decide which one to get. But you've got me leaning towards the guaranteed carb I think. It looks identical, and mentions the correct model year etc.

I totally understand the fuel situation needs addressing. My puzzle is a little more complicated by the fact that I have aftermarket saddle tanks with a three way valve installed. Never dared switch to anything but the main tank, but considering tank replacement I need to consider what to do with those old things. I'll need to figure out how to drain and disconnect those maybe. Oh and it turns out there is an extra fuel filter in the system, it's mounted at the output of the valve; a metal canister type like you mentioned.

[AussieinNC]

To simplify the fuel system issues I would not be using the saddle tanks at all until I know for sure they are not full of crud.

I would be installing a new in cab tank with new fuel sender seals and body seal, and routing a new fuel line from new tank to fuel pump.

Bypass all the other tanks for the time being.

Change the fuel pump...buy an AC Delco one if you can find one...had lots of issues reported on Chinese built pumps from Autozone and others...actually look on the pump for country of origin labels...

Add a metal cased inline fuel filter after the pump...and enjoy driving your truck for a while...

When you are ready, you can then check out the saddle tanks etc...if you dont intend to do long haul runs in this truck, I would be removing the saddle tanks totally...

Standard tank holds 20 gallons...plenty of gas for normal runs and cruises.

You could also go crazy and install an aftermarket tank behind the rear axle and get rid of in cab tank totally...LMC has some suggestions in their parts manuals...usually something like a Blazer tank...choices abound...but I do like the KISS approach...Keep It Stupid Simple

[dmjlambert]

When I ordered my remanufactured Quadrajet from National Carburetors, I just selected the model year and engine size of my truck. Then I followed up with a phone call to tell them I wanted one with an electric choke. They built one for me with the throttle linkage for my year truck, but the rest was 1985-86 truck's carburetor body with an electric choke. Their sales staff is very knowledgeable and I was happy with the experience. So, I don't have the same model Quadrajet. Rochester made a huge number of slightly different Quadrajets and even if you got one stamped with the same number as yours on that middle body piece, it does not mean that all the other parts on it are from the same original carburetor or even same decade.

I think any filter you add belongs on the low pressure side of the fuel pump, and on the low pressure side is the only place where there are rubber hoses on the truck. If you have any doubts about the fuel pump or think it has huge amounts of crud in it, the fuel pump is cheap and fairly easy to replace.

The fuel tank is also fairly easy to replace. If you want to investigate, you can pull it out, turn the collar that holds the fuel sender and remove the fuel sender and have a good look at it, empty the fuel out and have a look inside and drain any crud out of it through the neck and through the fuel sender hole. There was a sock filter on the end of the fuel pickup line at the bottom of the tank, and that is replaceable. Some people have put vinegar and a steel chain or a bunch of nuts and bolts or gravel in there, and swished it around to clean theirs up.

[geezer#99]

Here’s some reference material.
Just a short read.
Your carb number is in the list. Yours is likely original.
You can use the info to cross check your carbs specs with other ones you find.
https://www.digitalcorvettes.com/for...ad.php?t=88376

[fourspeedwagon]

Very good stuff here. First thing- get over to that shop and retrieve the $100 they offered to refund you. I’d say that’s more than most of us expected they would do. Take it and run.
Next, the tank- if you wanted to move it anyway, now is the time. No need to spend 150 on a new tank you will change shortly anyway. You can pull all those old tanks out (sell the selector valve) and get a blazer tank and run new fuel line. Please do this before mounting your freshly rebuilt Qjet or or will likely suffer the same fate.

If you can’t wait (to save up) and insist on using the old tank- I have been successful with the set that Eastwood sells. One of my cars, reproduction tanks aren’t made for so I pulled mine out and fed in a decent size length of chain and tumbled it around to knock loose the scale. The kit has an “etch” cleaning product to really give a good surface and then a special paint/liner that you pour in and roll the tank to fully coat. I have 24 years use since I did mine and it’s holding up well. Kit costs about $50. Again, this would be 2nd choice but not an awful option.
Also, as stated above- don’t worry about the exact carb stamping numbers. As long as they know what the engine is, they will sell you a proper carb and you’ll be good to go.

[bill3rail]

Clean out that gas tank or replace it. If the rust keeps coming you may never stop replacing fuel filters!

You can pick up a complete rebuilt carburetor for about $300.00. I would be tempted to buy one that was rebuilt and drop it in place.

If funds are tight, start selling off some of the unneeded junk that we all have stashed away.

[ncpetersc]

Originally Posted by bill3rail

Clean out that gas tank or replace it. If the rust keeps coming you may never stop replacing fuel filters!

You can pick up a complete rebuilt carburetor for about $300.00. I would be tempted to buy one that was rebuilt and drop it in place.

If funds are tight, start selling off some of the unneeded junk that we all have stashed away.

Carb is ordered! Paying a little extra to keep the one I have, and try a rookie rebuild someday maybe.

I may even have to see what can be improved with the current one to see if I can get it to run better while I figure out where to begin with my fuel/tank issues.

Got some scheduled R&R (hopefully) starting tomorrow, so will be on hold for a week or two.

Thanks!

[bill3rail]

Originally Posted by ncpetersc

Carb is ordered! Paying a little extra to keep the one I have, and try a rookie rebuild someday maybe.

I may even have to see what can be improved with the current one to see if I can get it to run better while I figure out where to begin with my fuel/tank issues.

Got some scheduled R&R (hopefully) starting tomorrow, so will be on hold for a week or two.

Thanks!

Good to hear! A little extra to keep what appears to be the original carburetor is worth it.

Check youtube for Q-Jet rebuild videos. Watch s many videos as you can and find one that makes sense to you before you open it, then watch that a few more times.

Make sure you change that oil ASAP so it is not watered down with excess fuel.

Fix that rusty tank! Or add an glass fuel filter so you can see if it needs to be cleaned.

Bill

[slikside]

Another thing to keep in mind regarding q-jets, is that they were being updated and improved every couple years until they stopped using them and went fuel injected on everything (late 80's?). So if you're not dead set on original numbers etc., the later the date stamp, the better the carb...you'll read about that in Cliff's book that you bought. I used his book for a rebuild for what I thought was an original '72 carb, and it turned out the Julian date on it was December of '76...an improved version (don't remember exactly what they were though). Anyhow, you will find that book to be a great help when you do a rebuild. Digital camaras are your best friend at each disassembly step. When you go to reassemble it, you have a complete photo library to refer to.

Yeah, at the very least, pull and clean the main tank before pumping any fuel to that new carb you're getting.

You're doing a great job. Just be patient with yourself, and continue to seek the advice as you've been doing, and befor long, you will have a dependable, reliable classic truck to run around in, and the additional satisfaction of having made it so yourself!

[ncpetersc]

Hello again, well I got back from vacation this week and had a box from National Carburetors waiting for me. While that's exciting, I am not making much progress on my first priority, clean fuel. So I haven't even opened up the new carb to check it out.

Looking at the saddle tanks I figured I'd go ahead and try to get those out of the picture. Well the only way that's going to happen is by cutting the bolts apparently. It's mounted hung from the bed with long carriage bolts through little brackets on the bottom of the tank. So turning the nut just turns the bolt. I have soaked, and tried, and tried and soaked. No luck loosening them.

So for now, I am using a few things to justify ignoring them for now. I can't open the caps (wedged against bed, probably shifted at some point in time), but tapping on the tanks I think they are empty or at least close to it. Then there is the 4-way valve, that is clearly set on the main tank. I understand the valve itself could be suspect, but I think other things seem like more likely sources of crud.

Looking at main tanks, that is going to push $200 with shipping charges. So I would really like to make sure I need to replace mine.

Was thinking of small steps forward I could make, and thought I'd try to get the cannsiter type filter (mounted just after output of fuel selector valve). I started at the engine. Removing the fuel line from the carb (I wanted to take a look at the filter again anyway). Then I thought I would remove the supply line to the fuel pump.

After draining probably four or five mason jars worth of gas it is still flowing. I guess I have a good siphon going? Incidentally looking at what I drained, I am not seeing any contaminants.

Anyway, I thought the next step might be to remove the line from the sending unit to break the siphon. If I can fold the seat forward I should be able to do this without taking my seat out. But I have questions about it.

Stuck my phone back behind the seat to snap a pic. Which of these is the supply line? My guess is the larger of the two. And by disconnecting here, I should break the siphon I would think. Agree?

[geezer#99]

Don’t keep running it!
If it keeps flooding it’ll be fuel washing the piston bores.
You could scuff a piston or wall.
Check your oil.
See if it smells like gas.

[ncpetersc]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Don’t keep running it!
If it keeps flooding it’ll be fuel washing the piston bores.
You could scuff a piston or wall.
Check your oil.
See if it smells like gas.

Okay, thanks! I did sniff it a few days ago, and I think it did smell like fuel some. Thanks for the heads up, and hopefully saving me a huge mistake.

thinking.
1. Got to solve fuel/tank issues
2. Change oil
3. Replace carb

I just need a plan for #1. When I get back will get the seat out and look inside the one in the cab for starters, see how things look.

[dmjlambert]

On mine, I had disconnected the rubber hose from the hard line under the truck, so the hard line slid through the hole in the floor most of the way and got out of the way. In 1969 there was just one fuel line and the sender wire that that's all.

[ncpetersc]

Okay thanks. I'll look into it.

[AussieinNC]

Those hard lines will be as corroded inside as the tank is...trust me...

Various online suppliers carry them and the prices are minimal...compared to leaving them and continuing to have residue issues for ever....there is also a small length of rubber hose under the cab that you should replace..

Just drain the tank thru the sender unit hole with a flex hose...spray the back of the lower tank bolts with PB Blaster to make them easier to remove...

Then gently pull the lines out of the way as you and a friend lift out the tank...

Clean out the junk and dirt, paint the back wall of the cab in bed liner black...after checking the corners for rust...and yes there will be rust...

Replace the body seal for the filler tube,,,use liquid soap to slip the filler tube in easily when re-assembling...

Have fun young man

[ncpetersc]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

Those hard lines will be as corroded inside as the tank is...trust me...

Various online suppliers carry them and the prices are minimal...compared to leaving them and continuing to have residue issues for ever....there is also a small length of rubber hose under the cab that you should replace..

Just drain the tank thru the sender unit hole with a flex hose...spray the back of the lower tank bolts with PB Blaster to make them easier to remove...

Then gently pull the lines out of the way as you and a friend lift out the tank...

Clean out the junk and dirt, paint the back wall of the cab in bed liner black...after checking the corners for rust...and yes there will be rust...

Replace the body seal for the filler tube,,,use liquid soap to slip the filler tube in easily when re-assembling...

Have fun young man

Fun? Well I sort of am, but I'm quickly getting in over my head I think.

I'll look around online for a set of lines. My hoses underneath are going to be different due to the addition of saddle tanks, but I guess I can buy that by the foot and replace.

Do I need to look at hard lines from pump to carb too?

Cleaning up I can do, but if I find rust then what? I am by no means a body guy, and this is getting expensive/out of hand quickly for me and my budget.

Thanks again for the continued advice. I have the filler tube grommet on order, do I need to try to get the grommets in the floor for the hard lines. Thanks for the heads up on the PB blaster for tank bolts.

I wish you were closer, I'd pay you for some expert help in a heartbeat.

[ncpetersc]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

Those hard lines will be as corroded inside as the tank is...trust me...

Various online suppliers carry them and the prices are minimal...compared to leaving them and continuing to have residue issues for ever....there is also a small length of rubber hose under the cab that you should replace..

Just drain the tank thru the sender unit hole with a flex hose...spray the back of the lower tank bolts with PB Blaster to make them easier to remove...

Then gently pull the lines out of the way as you and a friend lift out the tank...

Clean out the junk and dirt, paint the back wall of the cab in bed liner black...after checking the corners for rust...and yes there will be rust...

Replace the body seal for the filler tube,,,use liquid soap to slip the filler tube in easily when re-assembling...

Have fun young man

Aussie what do you think about all this. And PLEASE don't think for a second that I am doubting your advice at all. But I think I get what dmjlambert is saying as well.

Would it be a huge mistake to leave the old lines for now? I'd have a new sending unit (new filter sock), an inline canister filter, and the filter in the carb.

I want it right, and really don't want to put a new carb on without a clean fuel system. Just wondering if you had any further thoughts. Or if anyone does for that matter. I am all ears, and want to do the right thing.

[AussieinNC]

I would not at this stage worry too much about rust in the cab corners,,,that can be tackled much later...

The old fuel pipes are a ready source of trouble and lots of mechanics have been bitten by rust flaking off and clogging the fuel system up.

The lines are not that expensive in the long run...just one suggestion ...please dont run rubber hose all the way from tank to pump as the heat from the exhaust system can cause lots of issues.
LMC has new pipes, as do many other suppliers...a new tank is the way to go if you intend to keep the truck...there are treatment processes you can perform on the old tank but they almost run the same as a new tank.

As for you paying me if I was closer...even if I lived right next door, I would never take your money my young friend,,,I have been working on cars, trucks, tractors and power equipment for over 55 years..its my pleasure to help you out...just keep us all up to date and let us know how you are doing...

There are many many highly knowledgeable people on this forum and its a pleasure to help out if possible.



.

[dmjlambert]

It is possible to replace every single thing on the truck that has any amount of rust at all. I evaluated the overall condition of my hard lines based on what I see from the outside, which of course is not possible. Boy am I full of boloney. :-) In the end, I decided if they were not leaking and flushing them out resulted in clear gas arriving at the other end, that would be good enough. Good enough may not be compatible with your personality, and that's OK. I did end up bending my own replacement fuel pump to carburetor fuel line because the previous owner had cut the line and added rubber hose and I didn't want any rubber hose on the pressure side of the fuel pump. A pre-bent fuel line is not available for my truck, which has the 1969 insanity air conditioner bracket. The other hard lines are original. I had a metal canister type of inline filter in the short rubber hose section right where it goes into the fuel pump, but a few months ago I removed it. I've now driven the truck for a couple years and the lines are still going strong and the built-in carburetor filter is working fine. When I pulled the old filter after going over a year, other than looking wet and being just slightly darker than the new filter I was putting in, and also not finding particles, I decided those hard lines must be just fine. I'm not saying it is overboard to replace the hard lines, there just had to be a limit to the budget for me (both dollar and time budgets). I believe driving the truck often, going through at least a tank of gas a month, is beneficial to the fuel system. If you plan to drive yours somewhat rarely, then all new fuel system components and completely rust free system is what I would suggest. That's my 2 cents.

[dmjlambert]

That's progress. Bug shield looks like something I would need here in the Houston area. Interesting.

[AussieinNC]

I thought most Tx trucks came standard with cow horns across the top of the hood!!!!

I used to live in Houston,,,would need a bigger deflector for some of those Tx sized bugs...

hahaha...

[ncpetersc]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

I thought most Tx trucks came standard with cow horns across the top of the hood!!!!

I used to live in Houston,,,would need a bigger deflector for some of those Tx sized bugs...

hahaha...