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Old 08-29-2017, 11:37 PM   #1
gringoloco
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

...and the new parts laid out for inventory. Reminds me of building plastic models as a kid. I love this shade of powder called evo grey from prismatic--it flops from near black to silver depending on light. Ready to start bolting this stuff on. Or just break out the xacto blade and testors glue...
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Old 08-31-2017, 01:54 PM   #2
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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...Or just break out the xacto blade and testors glue...
They are just really big models, right? Looks like some nice parts!
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Old 08-31-2017, 03:13 PM   #3
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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They are just really big models, right? Looks like some nice parts!
They sure are. Much heavier & expensive though.....
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Old 08-30-2017, 08:28 PM   #4
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

That's a sweet looking bunch of parts!!!!
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Old 08-30-2017, 11:51 PM   #5
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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That's a sweet looking bunch of parts!!!!
Thanks buddy! Trying to turn it into a sweet looking (and driving) truck sometime soon. This is at least the third dropmember I've purchased for this truck--I intend on making it happen this time!
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Old 09-01-2017, 07:37 AM   #6
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Looks great Chris!
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Old 09-01-2017, 09:29 AM   #7
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

I like it!

Since you have the tape measure out, what is the measurement from the top of the notch to the top of the original frame rail?
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Old 09-01-2017, 07:40 PM   #8
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Uhmm..... Fun.
Oh, yeah, that!
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Looks great Chris!
Thanks buddy!
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I like it!

Since you have the tape measure out, what is the measurement from the top of the notch to the top of the original frame rail?
Should be about 6", I'll verify
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Old 09-01-2017, 07:52 PM   #9
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Yup, about 6 3/16" right now, which should be closer to 6" once it's all snugged down. This is the 'touring' notch; the 'extreme' is a few inches taller, but I'm not sure by how much.
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Old 09-01-2017, 11:15 PM   #10
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

That would be about perfect for my other truck since I've already raised the bed floor 6.5".

The frame under it turned out not like I wanted it to, so I really want to start over on that one once the Blazer is finished.
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Old 09-02-2017, 10:33 AM   #11
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Originally Posted by smbrouss70 View Post
That would be about perfect for my other truck since I've already raised the bed floor 6.5".

The frame under it turned out not like I wanted it to, so I really want to start over on that one once the Blazer is finished.
Would even leave you a little room for air fittings How's that Blazer coming along?
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Old 09-02-2017, 12:53 PM   #12
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Would even leave you a little room for air fittings How's that Blazer coming along?
There won't be air fittings on the truck when I am done with it. Hell, it may not even have a solid rear axle.

The Blazer is fighting me every step of the way. Of course, I'm trying to make sure everything is PERFECT, like you do, so some things I've had to do multiple times before I was happy with it. I have conceded to the fact that I will get the air ride and Accuair done before Cruisin' the Coast, but will have to hold off on getting the rear axle narrowed until this winter. That means no 20" gassers until then. It'll still look good with the 17" slots for now though.

On another note, I have a Kore3 brake setup F/R for a 2nd gen Camaro (GM TS 14" hybrid front and 10/12 bolt 13" Z51 rear) that is just laying around. You used a GM TS setup from Kore3 and bolted it up directly to a C10 LD spindle correct? If so, I may replace my drop spindles and the Blazer get bigger brakes when the 20's go on this winter.
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Old 09-02-2017, 09:18 PM   #13
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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There won't be air fittings on the truck when I am done with it. Hell, it may not even have a solid rear axle.
Intrigued! Where is the build thread?
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...I'm trying to make sure everything is PERFECT, like you do, so some things I've had to do multiple times before I was happy with it...
No perfection here, just creative photography I used to strive for perfection, but it's too stressful of a pursuit. I also don't share many of my failures or how long some of these things actually take...
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Originally Posted by smbrouss70
On another note, I have a Kore3 brake setup F/R for a 2nd gen Camaro (GM TS 14" hybrid front and 10/12 bolt 13" Z51 rear) that is just laying around. You used a GM TS setup from Kore3 and bolted it up directly to a C10 LD spindle correct? If so, I may replace my drop spindles and the Blazer get bigger brakes when the 20's go on this winter.
I did use a tall spindle kit, but made for an impala to get the 5x5 pattern. I used LD Belltech 73-87 spindles. Yours sounds like it should work well, but I'd shoot Tobin a quick email to confirm. You'll likely need new brackets for the truck axle out back, but otherwise, I think, good to go.
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Old 09-02-2017, 09:29 PM   #14
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Speaking of things that take longer than intended, I got the framerails trimmed for final notch fit, then primed/painted the bare metal and proceeded to drill a BOATLOAD of 7/16" holes to attach the radius notches and bridge. I used an old trick of dropping a 1/4" nut in the holes to center my pilot--worked out great!

Looks like not a lot of progress, but it's all final installed and torqued, and fits like butta. It's time now to remove the offending sections of framerail getting in the way of super-static lowness
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Old 09-02-2017, 09:46 PM   #15
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Those notches look great in there, I love watching your builds come together. You seem way more organized than me.

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Intrigued! Where is the build thread?
No build thread, I haven't touched it since I got the Blazer, except to move it around the shop. I'm seriously contemplating using a C6 manual trans-axle with one of Dobbertin Performance's cradles when I get back on the truck.

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No perfection here, just creative photography I used to strive for perfection, but it's too stressful of a pursuit. I also don't share many of my failures or how long some of these things actually take...
It's amazing how long a simple task takes when you can only spend a couple of hours a night working on it... Oh yeah, my photography skills suck, that's why I haven't been posting on my thread, plus nobody wants to see pictures of me cussing at things that don't fit right or bolts/nuts that strip out!

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I did use a tall spindle kit, but made for an impala to get the 5x5 pattern. I used LD Belltech 73-87 spindles. Yours sounds like it should work well, but I'd shoot Tobin a quick email to confirm. You'll likely need new brackets for the truck axle, but otherwise, I think, good to go.
I already have the 5 x 4.75 BC on the Blazer, and I might as well narrow the 8.5" 10-bolt that is in the other truck since it already has a brand new 3.73 Posi setup in it.
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Old 09-04-2017, 10:29 PM   #16
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Looks good!

I like the fact that you still have the hitch bolted up!
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Old 09-04-2017, 10:39 PM   #17
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Looks good!

I like the fact that you still have the hitch bolted up!
Thanks, I needed a rear crossmember; the PB tubular is $100--this one is already paid for . Probably too low to actually tow anything--maybe it will help protect the tank
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Old 09-05-2017, 10:58 AM   #18
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

just turn the drop hitch upside down, then it would be a raised hitch... Looks good though!
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Old 09-05-2017, 11:38 AM   #19
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Looks awesome Chris, can't wait to see the ride height when's it's back on the ground.
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Old 09-05-2017, 11:40 AM   #20
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

looking AWESOME!!!!!!!
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Old 09-05-2017, 01:41 PM   #21
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Wow, that was quick!
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Old 09-05-2017, 04:14 PM   #22
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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just turn the drop hitch upside down, then it would be a raised hitch... Looks good though!
I was already doing that before. Now I guess I'd need another 4" of drop hitch (or a lowered trailer). Good thing the Jeep has a tow package...
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Looks awesome Chris, can't wait to see the ride height when's it's back on the ground.
Me too, I took a few quick measurements and I think it's gonna sit nice and low
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looking AWESOME!!!!!!!
Thanks! Pretty stoked here, too
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Wow, that was quick!
That's what a 4-day weekend gets ya when your wife is taking 3 graduate classes. Lotsa time to entertain myself, haha
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Old 09-09-2017, 12:54 AM   #23
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Little more progress and she is back on her feet and very near terra firma! In these shots, the coilovers are as low as they will go and still not in the sweet spot at mid-stroke. It will come down another 3/4 to full inch once it's all back together
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Old 09-10-2017, 01:51 PM   #24
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

It's a little hard to tell but judging by the back of the cab it looks like you'll be around a 6" ride height? That sounds about perfect to me.
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'57 VW beetle - Oct. 2006 Hot VW's pg. 87 - 350hp intercooled, turbocharged, EFI 2.3liter and 5spd in the works
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Old 09-10-2017, 06:07 PM   #25
gringoloco
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Quote:
Originally Posted by babyblueoval View Post
It's a little hard to tell but judging by the back of the cab it looks like you'll be around a 6" ride height? That sounds about perfect to me.
I'm thinking 6.5" or so, but that remains to be seen. My goal is to be around "bagged on stock suspension" dumped height
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