What can be said about the 4-speed New Process NV833 overdrive manual transmission?

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by hatzie

He re-uses the roll pins. I would never do that. They're usually fairly cheap and they loose some tension when you drive them through. You don't want em walking through when you're driving.

I concur, same rule of thumb as cotter pins.

Originally Posted by hatzie

GM Hurst etc used Nylok nuts for a reason. Loctite may work OK but I've had fasteners with Loctite come loose where Nyloks will stay in place.

From what I saw he reused the single Nylok nut.

Originally Posted by hatzie

I wouldn't recommend hardened relay rod bushings. The main reason to have soft plastic relay rod bushings is they wear instead of the rod ends, shifter paddles or, the transmission levers. The Pit Pack with nylon bushings is pretty cheap.

Yeah, I thought that too, those plastic bushings are the sacrificial part, if you replace them with a part that is tougher than the other parts, then your other parts will wear out instead of the part that is meant to wear out.

But than again, he builds race transmissions and not your grocery getters, so there may be a reason, probably tighter fittings, more sturdyability, and race cars are driven less than daylies so the parts can last just fine. Honestly I don't know. ha ha

[walkerb]

Gregski, I'm guessing this is the bolt. It's the bolt in the middle at the back of the cover. Inline with the two shifting forks, again towards the rear of the cover

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by walkerb

Gregski, I'm guessing this is the bolt. It's the bolt in the middle at the back of the cover. Inline with the two shifting forks, again towards the rear of the cover

thank you so much, for some reason mine would not fit through the hole in the lid in that spot, but the case did have a deeper hole in that spot, thanks again I will clean the hole in the lid and it should go back in

[walkerb]

It's been awhile since I've had a side cover off so I can remember if my Saginaw fork looked like this.
Is this wear acceptable?

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by walkerb

It's been awhile since I've had a side cover off so I can remember if my Saginaw fork looked like this.
Is this wear acceptable?

Not sure bud, but could you take a picture of the way you have the guts aligned before you put the cover back on, in particular where is the reverse gear thing supposed to be. I am only able to shift 3rd and Overdrive gears I can not shift 1st and 2nd nor reverse, and this is by hand without using the Hurst shifter, so I know its not the shifter, and I know they are supposed to shift with an adjustable wrench or by just pulling and pushing on the rods by hand.

[Gregski]

can anybody help me figure out how to keep this Reverse Interlock Link from falling out, more specifically the pin that it pivots on, which sits in a hole in the side cover.

the design of it is completely illogical to me, its like hammering a nail into an existing hole, there is no anchor for it if you will, is something supposed to go into the notch in the bottom of the pin?

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by Gregski

can anybody help me figure out how to keep this Reverse Interlock Link from falling out, more specifically the pin that it pivots on, which sits in a hole in the side cover.

the design of it is completely illogical to me, its like hammering a nail into an existing hole, there is no anchor for it if you will, is something supposed to go into the notch in the bottom of the pin?

Is it held in place during operation by some other feature on the case?

Could you hold it in place with blue or red Loctite during assembly?

K

[Dazzoman]

Originally Posted by Gregski

can anybody help me figure out how to keep this Reverse Interlock Link from falling out, more specifically the pin that it pivots on, which sits in a hole in the side cover.

the design of it is completely illogical to me, its like hammering a nail into an existing hole, there is no anchor for it if you will, is something supposed to go into the notch in the bottom of the pin?

So reverse wont easy shift (without Hurst but with pliers) because I removed the side cover to put in an gasket ( oh what an mistake that is).
No matter how good I install it , reverse shifting is way dragging and almost grinding as I move it .
Any clues ?

[Dazzoman]

Originally Posted by Dazzoman

So reverse wont easy shift (without Hurst but with pliers) because I removed the side cover to put in an gasket ( oh what an mistake that is).
No matter how good I install it , reverse shifting is way dragging and almost grinding as I move it .
Any clues ?

Here is the latest on my 1966 GMC trans conversion of an NP440 and saving my old bell housing . SO FAR SO GOOD !
BUT .. the shifter as you can see is too far to the left ( sounds political doesnt it ?)
The knuckle is way into the floor hump(pic) and into my foot right over the gas pedal .
YA I could chop it but living with that knuckle is a bit much
DOES ANYONE HAVE AN SHIFter for sale ?

[Blue666(2)]

Your shifter backwards from mine. My reverse is on the left & forward.

did you start by placing each shift lever in the midpoints & put a screwdriver thru the shifter to center all the parts? After you get all the mid points set, install your rods.

Attach a picture & show where the problem occurs, maybe we can figure it out.

Thanks

[Dazzoman]

Originally Posted by Blue666(2)

Your shifter backwards from mine. My reverse is on the left & forward.

did you start by placing each shift lever in the midpoints & put a screwdriver thru the shifter to center all the parts? After you get all the mid points set, install your rods.

Attach a picture & show where the problem occurs, maybe we can figure it out.

Thanks

Huh ?
My shifter works but its location isnt going to work with the 1966 GMC in the pic I put up here .

[walkerb]

That where im at also. Gotta be a way to move/position the forks so that something, anything!, holds it. I wonder if we can use a dap of heavy grease to hold it till its installed?

I'm ordering my cover gasket today so that i can get this swap moving!

[Keith Seymore]

I can't say for certain but I wonder if that pivot is supposed to be "peened" over.

K

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

I can't say for certain but I wonder if that pivot is supposed to be "peened" over.

K

Hi Keith thank you for commenting, could you elaborate on what you mean by "peened" over please, I am not sure I am familiar with the term / process.

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Hi Keith thank you for commenting, could you elaborate on what you mean by "peened" over please, I am not sure I am familiar with the term / process.

Yes - basically it's a fancy word for "smashed all to Heck".

As in "ball peen" hammer - you use the rounded side of the hammer to fold enough material over the side of the post/stem such that it holds the other part in place.

Almost like taking that post and smashing a head onto it, turning it into a sort of free form rivet.

You can disregard all this, though: it didn't realize the head was already formed and that your were pressing the stem into an existing hole.

K

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by walkerb

That where im at also. Gotta be a way to move/position the forks so that something, anything!, holds it. I wonder if we can use a dap of heavy grease to hold it till its installed?

I'm ordering my cover gasket today so that i can get this swap moving!

strength in numbers bro, thank you for replying, say where are you getting your gasket from? as I am realizing this trans aint the most popular in the world

[walkerb]

Originally Posted by Gregski

strength in numbers bro, thank you for replying, say where are you getting your gasket from? as I am realizing this trans aint the most popular in the world

Well now im not getting the gasket anywhere! Every place ive inquired says to just use gasket sealer RTV. DOH

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by walkerb

Well now im not getting the gasket anywhere! Every place ive inquired says to just use gasket sealer RTV. DOH

Brewers... http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.asp?cat=268

[walkerb]

Originally Posted by hatzie

Brewers... http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.asp?cat=268

Hatzie, you the man! Thank you

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by hatzie

Brewers... http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.asp?cat=268

dang playa, thanks

[Gregski]

finally pulled my SM465 Muncie out to compare it to the New Process (or is it New Venture) 833

Clearly the 833 is longer than the Muncie, though the mounting brackets appear to be fairly close

[Gregski]

trying to offer up some better ways to get the measurements to be more meaningful

The Muncie seems to be 18 inches from where the bell housing would butt up to the front and to the center of the universal joint

The 833 is 21 1/4 inches from where the bell housing would butt up to the front and to the tail end. It uses a slide in yoke and not a fixed one like the Muncie

[Gregski]

and lets take a look at the bell housings, in my case both the 833 transmission and its bell housing have a dual bolt pattern, so I can use my old bell housing if I like because the 833 has a bolt pattern that will already match it, NOT all 833 transmission are this way (I think)

[MalibuSSwagon]

My C10 with SM465 actually has the duel pattern bell installed factory.

[Gregski]

so decided to cut out the stick out of my shifter bottom end assembly for two reasons

1. the threads for the ball were broken off on it anyways

2. I did not like the hockey welded in install, even if it was factory