1966 suburban slammed fuel injected 6.2L

[c.brown]

Originally Posted by Nobby

NICE JOB! Are you gonna put the rain gutter back on?

thanks,dont plan on putting the rain gutter back on

Originally Posted by pdxhall

The burb is looking killer. It's going to be a sweet ride. I am in the process of doing the rust repair on the vent area like you did except mine was not rusted on the inner panel except at the top of the firewall. Could you give me a little more info on what you did there? Are you still going to use a gasket in the channel? From the pics it kinda looks like you built up the channel. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

thanks,i cut down the lip some unuf so when i folded it over it met up and created a small gap and welded it together then ground it smooth if that makes sense if i can help let me know ill try

[youngrodder]

The looks sweet. Could b lower though...Kidding of course.
Keep up the good work.

Marc

[c.brown]

Originally Posted by youngrodder

The looks sweet. Could b lower though...Kidding of course.
Keep up the good work.

Marc

thanks i would have to body drop it to go lower trust me thought about it but i think im satisfied by the way nice truck

[pdxhall]

Makes perfect sense. I was wondering how to get in that channel to repair the rust and that looks like a great way to go. Thanks.

[gostranger]

Great to see the progress looks awesome!!!!
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[allaboutchevelles]

Maybe I missed it, but are yall talking about the rain channel in the front of the vent window. Is that what you removed? Mine is rusted also and I want to remove them but Im not sure how to fix the door gap. Any pics of yours up close and how you fixed yours?

[c.brown]

Originally Posted by allaboutchevelles

WOW!!!! Thats sweeeeeett, perfect stance!!!

thanks

Originally Posted by allaboutchevelles

Maybe I missed it, but are yall talking about the rain channel in the front of the vent window. Is that what you removed? Mine is rusted also and I want to remove them but Im not sure how to fix the door gap. Any pics of yours up close and how you fixed yours?

i removed the rain channel in front of the door and the one on the firewall i didnt really notice a big gap ill have to look at it more

[c.brown]

Originally Posted by gostranger

Great to see the progress looks awesome!!!!
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thanks hows yours coming along

[Dinos63]

duude nice work kat!!!

[c.brown]

Originally Posted by Dinos63

duude nice work kat!!!

thanks man

[Alan's Classic]

Nice work and progress!!

[VeronikA]

Love your project! Very impressive work buddy! Keep up the hard work! It already looks awesome! And you picked very cool wheels too! Love them! V

[c.brown]

Originally Posted by shortbed70

Thanks man now I want one to tow my 65 around with.... Seriously awesome build!
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Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Nice work and progress!!

Originally Posted by VeronikA

Love your project! Very impressive work buddy! Keep up the hard work! It already looks awesome! And you picked very cool wheels too! Love them! V

thanks, its going to be a little warmer this week hope to make some more progress

[c.brown]

finally back at it heres some more progress had some clearence issues with dropmember and back spacing in front not much room for turning if you want to ride real low mocked the front clip hood is just sitting on there for pics

[awbrown]

Wow , you are making progress!!! looking good , think you will have it mobile by Power Tour time???

[youngrodder]

Looks great. You can't beat this MI weather to get a jump on truck projects.
Keep it up.

Marc

[gostranger]

the suburban looks great!!!! i am having the same type of backspacing problems with my front i also have the dropmember it looks like i will have alot of work to move the wheels in to get some steering to be able to drive!!!! it only looks like you have an inch or so for steering!

[creep]

Killer

[tincan1966]

Great build!

[gostranger]

Is the picture of the wheel and the gap between the fender aired up or all the way aired out?
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[c.brown]

Originally Posted by awbrown

Wow , you are making progress!!! looking good , think you will have it mobile by Power Tour time???

Originally Posted by youngrodder

Looks great. You can't beat this MI weather to get a jump on truck projects.
Keep it up.

Marc

Originally Posted by creep

Killer

Originally Posted by tincan1966

Great build!

thanks guys ,the weather has been great, hope to get some issues cleared up and keep moving foward on this build fell way behind with a bum shoulder last summer

[c.brown]

Originally Posted by gostranger

the suburban looks great!!!! i am having the same type of backspacing problems with my front i also have the dropmember it looks like i will have alot of work to move the wheels in to get some steering to be able to drive!!!! it only looks like you have an inch or so for steering!

Originally Posted by gostranger

Is the picture of the wheel and the gap between the fender aired up or all the way aired out?
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the pic is aired up to ride hieght ,im trying to get some answers from nate i let you know if i find anything out

[gostranger]

i found this thread on the dropmember that might answer some questions. i didnt notice a 1.5 inch narrower track and i cant drive low without the wheels hitting the lip of the fender and i trimmed the fender back a bunch i am still trying to figure this out myself.

I figured I would go ahead and include some more technical information in regards to the suspension/steering geometry of the Porterbuilt Dropmember and some background as to "why".

When I first designed the Dropmember back in 2004-2005 I spent a lot of time tweaking the geometry in order to make it accomplish exactly what I wanted. This system was never designed to be an "ultimate performance" suspension system... but I wanted to develop a system that was an improvement from the factory design, could be driven at an extremely low height, and plant the rails on the ground with a big wheel... without the need to "Z" the frame.

First on the list was the necessary ground clearance. The Dropmember moves the suspension up in the chassis so that the lowest part of the front suspension is actually 1.25" off the ground when the frame is resting flat (the lowest point is the lower control arm outer bushing sleeve). This allows the truck to be driven extremely low without hangin up on all the imperfections on the road.

Second was to narrow up the trac-width. The Dropmember narrows the track width right at 1.5" per side (from stock) allowing more tire clearance while riding and turning when extremely low.

Third, we wanted to move the wheel center-line forward to center the wheels in the wheel wells... mission accomplished. You can run a 22" wheel and not even worry about cutting into the firewall for tire clearance.

And while striving to accomplish these key points we also wanted to make some "improvements" to the C10 geometry.... as in it's factory design there is a lot to be desired. As many have been learning, thanks to Rob from No Limit and his "make it handle" thread, one of the key points to making these trucks handle better is to add caster. The Dropmember has 6.97 degrees of caster in its design.

Another key point we implememted was to design the camber curve to where it didn't gain a lot of camber through compression. We didn't want the truck to have extreme camber when aired out and have that "broken" look. Some might argue that camber gain is essential to a performance suspension... and it is... but that was not the overall goal of the Dropmember. The Dropmember only gains 1 degree of negative camber through 6 inches of compression. Doesn't make it stick in the corners like a porsche, but looks good at the show.

We also wanted to adapt a rack and pinion steering gear to the design, not just because we had to in order to get the trac-width narrowed, but it also decreased the sprung weight considerably. We mounted the rack high on the crossmember in order to accomplish all we wanted (with it being a factory replacement rack we didn't have the liberty to put it anywhere else). The downfall to this was the necessity to notch the frame for the rack's tie-rod clearance. Not too big of a deal for most guys looking for this type of product, as they would expect a little cutting and welding. The big upside is the angle for the steering linkage. On most motors and header combos its a straight shot. It was important to keep the bumpsteer in check as well, and we were able to hold to the standard of .1 degree of bumpsteer per inch of wheel travel.

If anybody has any more technical questions they can feel free to ask, as I will be more than happy to answer any questions.

On a side note... keep your eyes peeled for our performance version of the Dropmember as it is just around the corner.
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Phone or Text: 480-297-2621

E-mail: porterbuiltdirect@gmail.com

Specializing in Chassis and Suspension Components for your Classic Chevrolet Truck.

[PBFAB.COM]

The Dropmember does narrow the trac width right at 1.5 inches per side. We also offer narrowed control arms for a bit more room, and CPP makes a spindle that will also bring it in a little more. These are a couple more options to bring it in some more.

Nate
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[gostranger]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

The Dropmember does narrow the trac width right at 1.5 inches per side. We also offer narrowed control arms for a bit more room, and CPP makes a spindle that will also bring it in a little more. These are a couple more options to bring it in some more.

Nate
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Nate providing that someone was to use everything you say also with the right backpacking does the gap between the tire and the fender look right or normal here on cbrowns suburban? I have a little less gap on mine using a twenty inch wheel can you tell me how much turning I could expect to have and how much you would normally have to cut on the fender and maybe hood to get a reasonable amount of steering keeping in mind it is a custom thanks!!!

CBrown sorry to hijack your thread!!!!!
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