my 48 s10 swap

[Lrall]

Hey guys, sorry for the slow update. Just recently picked up a hobart 140 welder. Pretty trick little machine, 110v, 20 amp. Hopefully before the new year i get the drivers fender in primer and get the brakes done and maybe the steering.

[55dude]

glad to see you around happy holidays!

[Lrall]

Working on the steering and brake setup as its too cold to do bodywork. Does anyone here have experience with braided hoses(steel)? I think we might end up buying some fittings from anplumbing and making our own.

[OrrieG]

For the brakes I used Russell lines from the calipers to hard line, got my own hard line from NAPA and cut, flared and bent my own. Bleed them out without any leaks. Flaring and bending is not that hard with the right (not cheapest) tools. Cheap benders will kink the lines. Use coat hangers to make templates for the bends. And remember to put the fittings on before flaring or you get more practice like I did! Mine are standard 45 degree double flares not AN lines.

[Lrall]

i have to make the power steering lines....im using a modified stock setup for the brakes i think!
lr

[Lrall]

for sure let me know!! I went through the s10 and suburban lines already, they dont fit....its so frustrating because the pump is in a really poor spot and well its no fun

[55dude]

take the line down to the local napa store or tractor supply. they can i.d. them and make you up the one you need or supply you with adaptors to make yours work.

[Lrall]

I talked to the napa guys and he said it would be 125-150 for a pair of hoses, now i only need one really but i cant remember what he quoted me, we will see where it takes us

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by Lrall

I talked to the napa guys and he said it would be 125-150 for a pair of hoses, now i only need one really but i cant remember what he quoted me, we will see where it takes us

I made both of my hoses from parts from Summit racing. I got the idea from the following link.
[URL="http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=264312

They are braided steel lines, and with the fittings I have less then $100 into them.

Good luck
Marc

[Lrall]

[quote=youngrodder;3081496]I made both of my hoses from parts from Summit racing. I got the idea from the following link.
[URL="http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=264312

They are braided steel lines, and with the fittings I have less then $100 into them.

Good luck
Marc[/quote]

Yea ive found those too but dang $100 is still alot for some stupid lines. I am thinking more and more i dont have a choice on what i want

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by Lrall

Yea ive found those too but dang $100 is still alot for some stupid lines. I am thinking more and more i dont have a choice on what i want

I know that you mean. Atleast I was able to put the lines together myself and did not have to find someone to crimp the ends on.

My runs were also very short so I was able to buy (1) 3ft section of hose and cut if in half for both of the hoses that I needed. Most of the money was in the fittings. I do like how it turned out thought.

Marc

[Lrall]

ok so im gonna focus on the motor and driving stuff now!! haha imagine that right. Gonna start getting the wiring ran and hooked up, along with the radiator and stuff. Anyone have idead of where to put my A/C and heat unit? im thinking in the middle of the dash because the glovebox on the pass side, gauges on driver side but the vent is in the middle....soo i have to figure out what to do about no room haha

[Lrall]

Hey all, just a little update. Ill try and get some pics up sometime this weekend. I have most of the wiring harness installed. Just finishing looming the wires and getting them organized and all pretty. I have a 3 post GM starter and am kinda confused. Does anyone know what specifically hooks to each one? The big post is positive battery and ? off the alternator and the 'r' and 's' posts. I have the TBI harness hooked up to the big post and 's' post which is correct says painless performance.
I need to solder or crimp connectors on the VSS and ground it, finish the fuel pump/wire it.
Brake switch and park/neutral switch to wire up. The mount everything. So the wiring harness is mainly done save a few things that are down the road.

[Lrall]

Within a week or 2 i hope to have the trans pan dehumped and shifter mounted. First will be the dash holes i need to fix, then brake bracket, brake lines(brakes will be done done done!!) Then mount the steering column and figure out the 'holder'. Cut the DD shaft and steering is done!! Then i will have to finish the PS lines. And finally finish the gas tank debacle. Its getting exciting with getting motor wiring finished(or close) and doing the real mechanical stuff!!

[Lrall]

Another update, ill take pics this week and post them up. I got the dash holes all welded up, figured out the mount for the steering column, and got the brake bracket bolted up. I added a piece of steel for reinforcement and have since pulled it all apart to paint it. Next time im down at the garage ill bolt it all back up(and leave it that way!) I have a question for all you guys, how much does an typical v8 torque over when its revved up? im wondering for the steering.

[andrewt2]

just read through this build looks very nice. subscribing.

[Lrall]

slow updates, busy busy with lots of stuff going on and working in freezing weather is no fun.

[sgtusmc]

Yeah man, your making some good progress. Everything looks great so far. Keep plug'n away.

[Lrall]

ugh, need to get pics up. I got the gas tank painted up all black and purdy like. Also finished the sending unit/pump assembly. A kind of exciting detail, i got the gauges in after much cutting and grinding on the old parts. I will explain with pics. So basically, gauges in, gas tank painted/ready for install, sending unit finished. I also worked on grinding off the remnants of the old seat frame and am about half done with that.

[Lrall]

also, you cant put trans fluid in a tranny w/o a yoke in correct? or it will all drain out the back? If so what would you guys suggest for that, i think if i lower it in the rear more it will throw off the driveshaft length but i want to start it before i get the bed on(bed has to be on to know how much to lower it). Any help?

[2manyprojects]

Originally Posted by Lrall

also, you cant put trans fluid in a tranny w/o a yoke in correct? or it will all drain out the back? If so what would you guys suggest for that, i think if i lower it in the rear more it will throw off the driveshaft length but i want to start it before i get the bed on(bed has to be on to know how much to lower it). Any help?

Some fluid will drain out, if you leave it open. I would just put the yoke in and leave it in park you can run the engine that way.They also make plastic plugs for blocking off the hole. Your right, get it completely together sitting on the ground at ride height, before measuring for the driveshaft.

[Alan's Classic]

I just stumbled on this thread. Nice work.

[Lrall]

[QUOTE=Alan's Classic;3215551]I just stumbled on this thread. Nice work.[/QUOTE
Thanks!!
hopefully progress will pick up this next month, im working on the other wiring harness and it should be in soonly!!

[jess66chevy]

Doin a damn good job on this truck man!

[Lrall]

few teaser pics!!