C10CJ: A Pro-touring '71 Stepside on a No Limit Pro-C10 Chassis

[stenbrin]

Cool build! #gottalovesteppers

[1971_c10]

Originally Posted by stenbrin

Cool build! #gottalovesteppers

Thanks boss! and you know it!

[1971_c10]

ok, a little behind my plan, but not much. Still have a shot at getting the cab on tonight. I didn't get paint done Friday night due to weather and me not being where I wanted to be due to well, work. Work pays the bills so getting keep those priorities straight! Anyhow, I'm calling the cab paint work DONE!

The scratches are gone! My only thing to fight is orange peel because I went ahead and sprayed a 3rd coat of clear and that 3rd coat was with a faster activator (that's all the paint shop had in stock, doh! It's summer!) and it was toasty, so I figured I'd get some orange peel. And I did. No big deal. I'll color sand that out. Hopefully the clear is hard enough by dinner tonight so I can at least color sand and polish the concave section of the firewall. The rest I ran do after it's on the chassis.

Firewall baking in the sun. Some left over clear in the PPS liner sitting on the dolly as a hardness check.


Side shot with the door. The color is very close. In this pic, I'd say it's hard to see a difference, but I know a handful will.


The back where this was more of a repair on the cab corner and the addition of the notch.


Close up of the heater area. Some orange peel to contend with, but nothing major.


And for those wondering, how did I handle the clear on the back? The problem with a C10 cab, is with a catalyzed clear, you aren't supposed to break in the middle of a panel and always break on an edge, so with our C10 cabs there are no panel breaks that are continuous to another break. So in following the break on an edge guide, you'd have to re-clear the whole cab. Uh, I'm not doing that. No way. So I chose to put a break in 2 spots that weren't along an edge. Just to the right of the notch and right on the corner where that bottom edge that comes from the door disappears over to the other edge below the panel insets. I may pay for that down the road. Oh well. To be clear, I DID NOT paint the entire area show in this pic. I only painted the cab corner and the bottom area over to the cab notch. All that was sanded with 600 wet. The rest of the area was scuffed with ultra fine scrotchbrite. Of course it was all cleaned, then cleaned again, and again.

[1971_c10]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Looks good from here!

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Agreed. Maybe it's not a Ridler contender.... but it doesn't need to be when the smiles per gallon accumulate.

Originally Posted by crakarjax

I like the color, but now that you mention the wrinkles I might plan on doing a matte or satin black on the firewall to conceal some of those imperfections.

Thanks guys! I hear ya SCOTI ... I know it looks good in the photos and it does look good in person until you get close enough. So I tend to judge paint by distance. Essentially the distance where the paint job turns from looks good to uh oh. So not when I see the first defect but the overall appearance. You guys have probably done/heard the same ... "looks good from 10 ft away" - That's what I call a 10' paint job. A Ridler would be a <1" paint job (which if I can convince one of my buddies on an idea I've got for a Ridler car ...). My firewall was a 2'-4' on the spots with the scratches. The rest of my truck is about a 1' paint job, maybe a little better on the bulk of the exterior body, so I want to at least get close to that. I thinking mainly about the guys that lean in to get a closer look at stuff. Well, actually, more about myself. I just couldn't see myself not fixing it at some point, so planning to fix it now.

Crakarjax - on the wrinkles, I actually never noticed them until I did the paint work. On a fully assembled truck, I'm not sure you'll really see them since the hood will shade that area of the firewall. Guess I'll be able to tell for sure in a few weeks. I hope to get the paint work wrapped up by this weekend and get the cab back on. And also, the metallic does not help that situation. A solid color probably wouldn't show as much even in a gloss.

For the firewall re-work, I probably made it sound worse than it really is. I just took the DA and only touched areas I could hit with the DA and some 320. I avoided too much hand sanding since that is time consuming. Here's some shots with the scuffed clear, pretty much down to the color. I don't need to go any farther as the clear I did spray filled the scratches, so it's really just making a new surface for the new color. Don't need new primer/sealer since I didn't expose any body putty/glaze and it's the same color underneath so it won't bleed. I then plan to hit the scuffed areas with 400 on the DA then do another 600 wet on the whole firewall. This will get rid of the tiny amount of orange peel (that I would have cut and buffed anyway) and put a new surface for the new shot of base color. Then I'll re-clear. So not too bad. I also plan to paint the 2 spots on the back of the cab when I redo the firewall paint so that will finish up this round of bodywork/paint. Left over on the cab is the fuel neck hole. But I've got 2 pinstripes right next to that hole so that will be a separate project maybe this winter after I've played around with pinstripe colors. Just need to temporarily plug the hole. More on that later.

So hopefully color again Friday night. Cut and buff Sat night. Install cab Sunday night. That's the goal. I've got some bodywork to finish up on the cab notch I did and so I plan to get that done tomorrow and shot with primer. The cab corner just needs a round of 400 / 600 wet sanding and it's ready for paint.

[gringoloco]

Looking good!

[1971_c10]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Looking good!

Thanks man!

[1971_c10]

BIG day for the C10 today ... the cab is ON!

There was some re-work I had to do, nothing too major. I then decided to cut and buff the front and the entire rear before I put it on the truck.

I must say, it does look good. Now time to get things put back together. I didn't do much to the interior so most of that will go back the way it was. That was by design, and by that I really mean budget. No budget for anything major in the interior.

IT'S ABOUT TIME!








Gotta love when you can see your suspension in the shine. I still remembered how to cut and buff (haven't done it in many years).

[knomadd]

The firewall looks really good! Heck, it all looks good! Nice work on everything so far.

[gringoloco]

Very nice!

[Advanced Design]

The shine is impressive! Truck is coming along nicely.

[1971_c10]

Originally Posted by knomadd

The firewall looks really good! Heck, it all looks good! Nice work on everything so far.

Thanks Duane!

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Very nice!

Thanks Chris!

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

The shine is impressive! Truck is coming along nicely.

Thanks Doug!

Now the fun begins! Working on a center console (nothing fancy) so I can get the shifter re-mounted and cable run so I can move the truck around since I have no brakes yet and I use the park detent in the trans to keep it from rolling down the driveway when I push it out of the shop. Also working on the brakes in parallel. Thought I had gotten the master cylinder push-rod setup done when I mocked in the new master cylinder, but alas I didn't. doh! So need to get that figured out.

Also need to get some door seals and the seals around the steering column. Anyone use the stuff from GMC Paul on the boards here? I've heard good things so will probably give him a call sometime this week.

Oh it's going to be really busy the next few weeks. Trying to get this thing driving in 3 weeks. Wish me luck!

[smbrouss70]

Looks great!

All of the seals on my Blazer are from GMC Paul's. I found it to be good quality seals, if I remember correctly, most of it was Precision brand.

[slowcpe]

Very nice progress!

[1971_c10]

Originally Posted by smbrouss70

Looks great!

All of the seals on my Blazer are from GMC Paul's. I found it to be good quality seals, if I remember correctly, most of it was Precision brand.

Originally Posted by slowcpe

Very nice progress!

Thanks guys! Man I've been busy. Pushing the boulder from all sides.

I've been working on a ton of stuff ... brakes, steering, interior, odds and ends

Here's a few shots of some of that:

Built a steam line for the LS using these slick fittings from Earl's that adapt the steam line to a -4 AN. Then I just made some -4 lines from some PTFE braided SS I had in the shop. Then tied it in to the heater port on my radiator.


Got the brake lines all made. Lot's of "fun" here. But they are done. Time to bench bleed the master, flush the lines, and bleed the brakes. Oh, and all that ugly stuff on the steering column will be made pretty. I finalized the u-joints fitment today and dimpled/drilled the shafts (yep, I still hate drilling hardened steel) so they are ready for paint and that bracket will soak a few hours in rust remover tomorrow after a date with the wire brush tonight.Then paint all that stuff and put in together "for reals".


And decided last minute, meaning last Monday, to install some Dynamat. Ordered Monday night, arrived Thursday, installed yesterday and today. Also have some Dynaliner to install in select spots on the firewall and floor. Should help quiet the cab down as long trips in this thing before weren't the most enjoyable to say the least.


And a little "SSS" - Side shot Sunday (we'll, the photo was taken on Saturday). Sitting on the springs. The front is a tad low, but I don't have any pre-load in the coils on any corner, but starts to give you an idea of the final stance. The front only gets about 50-100 lb pre-load so the front is pretty close to final.

[halfstep]

Not enough superlatives for your project so I'll just thank you for the example you are providing in patience and attention to detail as well as clarification on build elements that are often glossed over...btw rear rubber looks pretty serious in that last shot!

[builtbyKane]

So much cool in this project. Absolutely love the chassis. I bet the excitement is building as you are killing the to do list.

Looking back at it all would you do another roller chassis again? And from the same company?

[1971_c10]

Originally Posted by builtbyKane

So much cool in this project. Absolutely love the chassis. I bet the excitement is building as you are killing the to do list.

Looking back at it all would you do another roller chassis again? And from the same company?

Thanks man! Yes, the excitement is killing me and I have just a handful of things left to get to wrap up this phase. For a refresher, the bed floor is a winter project and won't be done initially.

On the chassis, yeah, I'd probably go a roller again. If you've got the budget it's hard to not go that route. Same company, that's a tough one, only because I'm all about trying out different stuff. But if I was to build one to flip, I'd probably just go with the stock chassis beefed up a bit and No Limit wide ride up front and trailing arm kit in the back. I've also thought about taking my old frame and installing Hotchkis stuff on that and then finding a body to finish it off and either give it to my dad or sell it. I'd also love to do a chassis with a Detroit Speed front sub and custom back half. But I don't quite have the shop to be doing frame work the right way (and keeping it straight). That's one of the drivers behind going with an aftermarket frame. I could box in the factory frame and not worry much, but chopping the front off then welding on a new one requires a bit more on the jig side.

[1971_c10]

Originally Posted by halfstep

Not enough superlatives for your project so I'll just thank you for the example you are providing in patience and attention to detail as well as clarification on build elements that are often glossed over...btw rear rubber looks pretty serious in that last shot!

Thank you for the kind words sir!

I didn't notice it when I took the pic, but yeah, that angle really makes the rear meats look meaty.

[1971_c10]

Oh, and I'm off to Kool Deadwood Nights tomorrow in Deadwood, SD. If any of you guys happen to be there too let me know!

[gringoloco]

Dang, dude. Lotsa work happening here. So close!

[crakarjax]

Looks awesome! Some questions...

- Where did you get your sway bars, and how did you choose the size/rates?
- Is your frame powdercoated? Looks really nice.
- Are those residual valves that I see on the brake lines? Those are only needed if your MC is lower than the calipers afaik -- any reason to include them?

[1971_c10]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Dang, dude. Lotsa work happening here. So close!

Originally Posted by crakarjax

Looks awesome! Some questions...

- Where did you get your sway bars, and how did you choose the size/rates?
- Is your frame powdercoated? Looks really nice.
- Are those residual valves that I see on the brake lines? Those are only needed if your MC is lower than the calipers afaik -- any reason to include them?

Thanks man.

The sway bars were spec'd out by No Limit with the chassis, but they look like units from Speedway Engineering (not to be confused with Speedway Motors). I can't remember the spline count, you think I'd have written it down. lol I'll grab the specs when I get back. At some point I do plan to back calculate the bar stiffness, but that's a bit down the road when I'm no longer building. I've got an old dated background in suspension design (it's been over 12 years since I did any though) so I just need to dig out a few formulas and take some measurements on the truck. Or find some software for me. I know No Limit uses suspension design software to aid them in their choices, but Rob has also got the years of experience behind his stuff.

Thanks on the frame! And yes, the frame is powder coated. The color is Black Magic from Tiger Drylac.

Yep, 2lb residual valves inline. You are right, only "required" when the MC is below the calipers (or drums), but I'm told they firm up pedal response in regular systems, so I'm giving them a try. If I don't like them, they are easily removed. I can already tell even w/o driving they do make the pedal firmer and the pads are held closer to the rotor on full pedal retract. The proof is on the driving though. I've never driven a car with them, so I've got that feeling in my head. I'll see how different it acts hopefully soon.

[88Stanger]

one of the best builds i have seen!!! great job!!

[1971_c10]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

one of the best builds i have seen!!! great job!!

Thanks man! I really appreciate the kind words!

[1971_c10]

Sunday night updates ...

To start off, I got my shifter combo bracket painted and installed (yeah, I changed my plans from above slightly). It's quite a good feeling to take a sketch on a white board and turn it in to a real product that works the way you want. Ok, I do that in my normal job too, but I don't get to do the fabricating there, whereas here I do!

The bracket with the white board sketches in the background


Close up of the funky thing I came up with for the ECU mounting just to show you guys it's not just a hole. The ECU has a vibration grommet installed so instead of swapping those out, I went ahead and used them. The ECU just slides right in (well, it's not quite that easy).


The finished assembly ready to install


Got some holes drilled in the tunnel. A 7/8" hole for the shifter cable and a 1 7/8" hole for the ECU engine harness (holy crap that's a big hole!). The grommet for the ECU wiring is filling the giant hole. Why such a big hole? Well, the largest ECU connector wants a 1 5/8" hole to fit through, and the grommet was a 1 7/8" so it all worked out.


The finished product. Install order matters and the carpet is included in that order. So it ain't coming out easy if someone tries.