LFD's low buck truck build!

[Rokcrln]

I found that my steering rag joint was bad so instead of spending $50 or so for a new joint I just bought a rebuild kit for mine and it only cost $7.69 and took about 20min to rebuild. Just grind off the head of the two rivits and pundh them out (very easy) then you will need to put it in a vise so you can get the lock washer and nut on. Then just put it back in. The kit had a standard size post and a larger one that I can only think helps take out some of the slop in the coupler. It fit fine and works great.

Kevin
LFD Inc

[FarmTruk]

Kevin, I love reading this thread, and have gotten many good tips, and seen how to do things I never would have thought of. Members like you, and many others here, are the reason I spend so much time reading these posts.

BYW...great work on the house remodel. Looks like a million bucks.

[Dadsredwagon]

great threead!!!! quick question, were you able to track down the rust form the kick panel area? my 65 has the same area but bigger problem, was curiuos if you traked down the leak if any?

thx

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by Dadsredwagon

great threead!!!! quick question, were you able to track down the rust form the kick panel area? my 65 has the same area but bigger problem, was curiuos if you traked down the leak if any?

thx

I have not even looked yet, this thing is in too good of shape to start digging and find out what the real truck looks like

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Rokcrln]

Well I washed the truck today (with alot of water) and I did not find a single water leak So I am thinking the rust in the kick panels is from leaves being built up in the air boxes.

I also pulled the cluster out so I could put in a new cluster that came with the truck. It also came with a new lense and bezel. The only thing is this cluster has the air gauge and the lense has the Vac label but for the price I can not complain and I will be using it for the rear load bags. Before I put in the cluster I need to replace the vent ducting and run a few more speaker wires. I am also trying out some Bituthene on the floor just in a small spot to see if it gives off any smell when it heats up. If not then the entire inside will get covered under the carpet. It is about 25% the cost of Dyna mat and has 90% of the same qualitys. Plus I have a 50' roll left over from my roof that I would like to use if it works. Also when I pulled the front tire for the box change yesterday I noticed how light the wheel was then noticed it is a US Indy Mag. I remember the name but can not place it. Does anyone remember what the deal is with them? They are 8 1/2's

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[68C15]

around here they call that a "circle track belt".


carefull on the budget anouncement. if the little lady finds out how cheap it really can be it may come back to haunt ya later. LOL

[Rokcrln]

Well today was one of those expensive one's but it will do alot for the build. I called up ECE and spoke with Jerry (very helpfull). I told him about this build and that we are trying to do it for alot less then the average build. He spent alot of time going over parts and prices for me so I could order what I fent was the best bang for the buck. I will post prices when the parts show up with my invoice. First parts were the 2.5" drop spindles and 2" drop springs. Next is a new cargo light switch and new screws for the cargo mounting. I ordered a new set of vent tubes for the heater and A/C vents. Mine are all falling apart so I will replace them and let you know what I find out in the process. Then I will be rebuilding both doors, window felts, window regulators, window scrappers and vent window rebuild kits. I asked about just replacement vents and I was told that they will not sell them because they do not fit very well. I will try and do a full HOW-TO on the vents for others to follow and put it in the FAQ section. Also Jerry told me mmost people will just replace the window regulater because they are $39 new or $18 for just the three rollers needed for one door. But hey for $21 per door I fent it was worth a try and should work out great as long as the wear does not extend beyond the rollers. I also got new door panel mounting screws because half of mine are stripped and will not come out so I will show a few different ways to get this done. Last would be the sway bar bushings so I can get this thing to handle better than a barn door on a windy day All in all it should be about $750 or so but I will list prices and part numbers as we go along. As for the frame and bed chop and shortening this will be done after Project Lemon drop is painted and before "Project Trazer" comes back for its solid chopped roof.

Stay tuned.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[extd56]

Kevin,

I need the radiator support mounts off the frame for my crew cab truck. Let me know if you still have them and not spoken for. Also if you need some 2 part paint for your floor let me know

[agronomya]

Can't wait for you to start your doors. I need to get that done and once I get the old tax refund I'll order up some parts. Good luck with the rest of it and I'm lovin the build.

AA

[Rokcrln]

I love seeing packages when I get home! I took the rest of what was left from the parts truck to the scrap yard today and made $34 Then I get home and MR. Brown had stopped by and left me a few gifts. I did not know that ECE had their own spindles made just for them. It was all packed very well and came in three boxes with out damage. Their was also a note letting me know that I had two parts that were back ordered (thanks Jerry). I will be starting on the dash vents first then head onto the doors when I get some free time. I will do the front suspention when I finish up Lemon Drop. So for now they get to keep all my parts in the corner company! I noticed that part of the vent window kit included a blind rivit kit that I will be able to use for part of Lemon Drop's build .

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[kbs71]

kevin,
Glad you got the radiator fixed. The only time i take mine to the shop anymore is if its areplacement job (tank or fins) or if I think it needs a good cleaning. Actually I've cleaned them out before with dulited muratic acid and it worked fine. I forgot you in CA where they don't let you buy anything that might be considerd haz. mat. The solder job should last a long time.

[68GMC454]

this is my kinda build..low buck,,but got it running and on the road...for me that is my goal for my truck....but im not shorting the bed,,on this one..lol...nice job on the house to..

[basketcase]

I had some Indy mags on my new 442 in 1967. They were an open spoke deep dish wheel that was real popular in Indianapolis at the time. I'm not sure if it was the same company or not.

Tom

[msgross]

nice clusters....those going in the trash!!! didn't figure...

I've been looking for the vac gauge and tin

[gringoloco]

Even your shade-tree work looks good!

[Hart_Rod]

How are you going to run the wires to the speakers in the doors??

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

How are you going to run the wires to the speakers in the doors??

I just pulled new wires thru the holes that were their. I did up th esize of the wires for two good reasons~
1) the bigger wire has thincker coating on it for protection from the edge of the hole.
2) right now I am only running off deck power but may add more down the road so I wanted to only do this once!

With the wire comming out at different heights it make for less wear on the wires because they just slightly twist from open to shut. If you came out of the cab and went into the door at the same point you would have the wires trying to slide in and out of the door or bending in half every time you open and shut. This is still not the best way but it is CHEAP and that is the name of this game!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[jimmydean]

Nice work, Kevin. I hope to start on my doors this weekend and that's some good info right there. Is the door relay tight? My passenger side is great, but my driver is shot.

I am building my door panels so I don't have to cut the door bottoms. I'm cutting the hell out of my dash though

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by jimmydean

Is the door relay tight? My passenger side is great, but my driver is shot.

door relay

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[ERASER5]

never mind

[Bob Moore]

I think he is talking about the inside door handle mechanism - sometimes called a remote or relay. The hardened post wears out the softer housing as you use the handle to open the door. As a lot of these trucks were used as work trucks (often only the driver) the drivers side got a lot more use than the passenger side. If you can find a 4door car from the 60's often the rear door will have an interchangable relay. For you 72 door guys the newer vans have relays with the longer shaft to clear the plastic door panels.

[Rokcrln]

Well today I got tilted! If you want to add a van tilt column to your truck than read this thread first http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=147927 because that is what I did last night before starting mine today. I also read this one http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=191143 and followed it for shortening the column at the same time. It is so nice haveing a few inches more (yea go ahead and say it!) with a stock bench seat. After reading these two threads you will be able to follow my build today.

The main thing I did different with mine was I keeped the truck P/N safty switch so I did not have to re-wire anything plus I think it is much easier and cleaner then trying to cut a small slot down inside a tube with out the right tools. So what I did was bent a small piece of sheet metal (after trying to cut a slot with out the right tools) that will act like the stock truck column to operate the P/N safty switch. I also only moved my P/N switch about 4" since I pushed the column forward a few inches. But other than those mod's I followed the above threads and it all worked out great.

I included a few pics so you can see the differents in length of a van tilt (black) and a stock truck column (tan). Also you will see the different mounting slots and the different P/N switches.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[jimmydean]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

door relay

Kevin
LFD Inc.

That's the part GMC Paul's website (and others I've seen) refer to the part that your door handle is connected to.

[IvelDesigns]

Cutting a "L" from a chevy tailgate, a "F" from a ford, and a "D" from a dodge and grafting them together would be more unique.

looks like some good progress man. Wish my truck was here so i could keep working on it whenever i had time.

[Crank]

The only thing I can think of for LFD on a tailgate would be find a Chevrolet tailgate and use the 'C' and have to do a little creative editing and make it a 'D' if you turn it backwards, use the stock 'L' off the same gate, as well as use one of the 'E's to make a to make a 'F' if you also do a little modifying to the gate. I'd say thats about your only option because if you go trying to fit different letters off different gates, the fonts or sizes arent going to match up.
Brandon