HP Tuners Tutorials

[Gregski]

HP Tuners Section F Disable the Catalyst System Codes

In this article we disable what we hope will be the last of the codes. It is common for LS Swappers to run exhaust systems less the catalytic converter so it makes sense to suppress any diagnostic codes which may surface do to it's absence. There will be an accompanying write up on how to actually turn off the catalyst PCM controls but for now we focus on just the codes.

On my 2001 Siera donor PCM there were two Catalyst System codes, your PCM may be a little bit different:

P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)

P0430 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)

[Just Sayin'] There has never been a more suitable code than a 420 for dealing with lighting up and smoking something, and they say GM egineers have no sense of humor [/Just Sayin']

Now let's look at the Black Magic that it takes to disable these codes, we have two controls:

• SES Enable
• Error Mode

If it was up to me I would break it up into a third control so it would look more like this:

• SES (Enable / Disable)
  
• MIL (MIL On First Error, MIL on Second Error, No MIL Light)
  
• Report Code (On / Off)

1. We fire up our laptop and launch the Editor. Open the file we saved in Section F. (Our last saved file is always our starting point).

2. Make changes in the Editor, this time we will make changes only to the Catalyst System codes under Engine Diag \ DTCs. Refer to the cheat sheet below and Disable the SES on these and set the MIL to No Error Reported, some may be disabled already by default:

P0420

P0430

3. Save the changes you made to a new file and call it something like "11 - Disabled Catalyst System Codes"

4. In your vehicle hook up your HP Tuner to the OBDII port and then your USB cable to your laptop, turn the key to the ON position, launch the Editor program, and simply write the new changes to the PCM.

Note: sometimes you have to write the entire tune file to the PCM, sometimes it is perfectly happy with only writing what's changed, more on this later.

More words with each pic:

[Gregski]

junkyards cut these out in California so I can only assume this is what they look like, ha ha

[Gregski]

we open up the VCM Editor because that's where we will be making our changes

[Gregski]

two catalytic converter codes get turned off, P0420 (hee hee) and P0430

[Gregski]

be descriptive when you name your file, a sentence here is better than an abbreviated word, six months from now you will thank me for nagging you to do so

[Gregski]

Write Calibration aka Flash your PCM

[MDPotter]

Gregski - as I said before, awesome writeup. You've broken down what appears to be rocket surgery and made it understandable. Just wanted to let you know that we do read this and appreciate the info very much. Keep it coming please!

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

Gregski - as I said before, awesome writeup. You've broken down what appears to be rocket surgery and made it understandable. Just wanted to let you know that we do read this and appreciate the info very much. Keep it coming please!

Oh Wow! Thank you so much for taking the time to say that, I really do appreciate it, this forum has been so helpful to me and I just want to give a little back.

Anyone else following along, please don't be a stranger, I don't mean to ever sound like a know it all, so just chime in correct me where appropriate, ask questions if something is not clear, and call my B.S. when you think I am pouring it on a bit too thick, ha ha.

[PGSigns]

I have an LS swap in my future and have been following along as you ad content. I like the format as it makes it easy to do for one but having it broken down into sections allows for an easier search if you have a specific topic you need to get figured out. Keep it coming!
Jimmy

[clay68c10]

Keep em coming! I’ll be doing the tuning on my LQ4 eventually, hopefully next spring or summer.

[Gregski]

For those of you following along in the LS Swap planning stages, you can download the HP Tuners software for free from their website, it is legit not pirated and you can start practicing and following along what I am doing, you can read the tune files, you can make changes to them, you just can't write them back to the PCM without buying the hardware / credits. Hope this helps.

https://www.hptuners.com/downloads/

[Captainfab]

That is good to know. I might give that try this winter.

[Wgesnerjr]

Originally Posted by Gregski

For those of you following along in the LS Swap planning stages, you can download the HP Tuners software for free from their website, it is legit not pirated and you can start practicing and following along what I am doing, you can read the tune files, you can make changes to them, you just can't write them to the PCM without buying the hardware / credits. Hope this helps.

Gregski,
Just so I`m getting this straight, I can go on the site, download the authentic software to my laptop. Then (without credits) I can practice on a test file from them or can I download a copy of my current tune and practice on it; just not writing it back to the pcm? Or do I need credits to copy my current program out to the laptop?

The reasons I ask: I have an old OBD II cable from my 95 Trans Am Gen II SBC. (95 was a change over year, OBD I PCM with OBD II plug) I used it with Tuner Cat software for that year. Very basic program and not user friendly compared to the HP Tuner; but got the job done. if the cable will work with HP Tuner, my buy in to start this had gone down considerably. No need to buy their Bluetooth hook up, just credits.

[Gregski]

Great questions, allow me to clerify.

Originally Posted by Wgesnerjr

...Just so I`m getting this straight, I can go on the site, download the authentic software to my laptop. Then (without credits) I can practice on a test file from them

Correct, you can download the software and also download any tune file from their repository although I recommend starting by downloading the Stock Tune files meaning some guys post their factory default files on there for others to grab in case they forgot to make a backup of their own tune files. You can search by Vehicle Year Make and Model. Not all years are available, but most are.

Originally Posted by Wgesnerjr

... or can I download a copy of my current tune and practice on it; just not writing it back to the pcm?

You can NOT get your own file because you need their hardware dongle to connect to your PCM in order to read the file from your own PCM, that hardware dongle (little box, see pic below costs $300 bucks no matter who you buy it from) I say buy the dongle without the credits first, just pay $300 and have the hardware. That will allow you to read the data from yours and anyone's PCM in the world just not write changes back to it, but that's ok, baby steps.

Originally Posted by Wgesnerjr

Or do I need credits to copy my current program out to the laptop?

No, you do not need credits to read files, but you do need the hardware to link your laptop to the cars computer aka PCM.

Originally Posted by Wgesnerjr

The reasons I ask: I have an old OBD II cable from my 95 Trans Am Gen II SBC. (95 was a change over year, OBD I PCM with OBD II plug) I used it with Tuner Cat software for that year. Very basic program and not user friendly compared to the HP Tuner; but got the job done. if the cable will work with HP Tuner, my buy in to start this had gone down considerably. No need to buy their Bluetooth hook up, just credits.

Their magic hardware is proprietary and that's how they make their money it will not work with your OBDII cable I wish it did. Below is the pic of the little box, the cable is just a standard generic USB cable as far as I know, it comes with it, but it's just a regular USB cable.

[Gregski]

What guys do, what I've done, and what I suggest you guys give a shot, is go to the junkyard and buy a PCM ie computer off of a 1999-2007 (Silverado, Sierra, Suburban, Tahoe, Yuckon) vehicle it really does not matter which one, but try to match it to your truck a bit, so if you have a 2WD then get one out of a two wheel drive, if you have a 4x4 than grab one out of a four wheel drive, if you plan on doing an automatic get one from a 4L60e transmission car, or 4L80e type of thing, if you want a stick than try and find one out of a NV3500 or NV4500 (good luck finding those) hee hee.

Then keep the blue connector for the PCM and cut about 3 feet of cable with it, you will make your own "Bench Harness" using this. This will allow you to tune this PCM or any other PCM off the car outside of the truck in your living room, your home office, or on the work bench in the garage, ie that's why it's called the Bench Harness, ha ha also get one OBDII port with about a foot of wire with it, you will also need that.

I've included a link to a video on how to make one, this is Matt the Godfather of LS Swaps from Sloppy Mechanics you all should meet ha ha, 8-7-13 Stock computer bench flashing harness there are other videos that will come up so find one that works for you, I think I had to watch like three or four of them to see the different designs and flavors guys like to build / make, that's how all of this HP Tuners stuff works, there is no one 100% complete source you have to hunt and peck, this thread being no exception. frustrating at first, but it does get easier over time

[Kermitt47]

Thank you Gregski for taking the time to break down and document a very complex program into small logical bits that us neophytes can follow along and gain some comfort level without feeling buried and afraid of blowing things up. Your efforts and those of others like ChopperDoc are appreciated.
Have you taken a look at the Gen V LT programming with the HP Tuners and is it similar or very different?

[Wgesnerjr]

Thank you Gregski,
This helps me wrap my head around what it will take to get into tuning.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Wgesnerjr

Thank you Gregski,
This helps me wrap my head around what it will take to get into tuning.

You're welcome, it is good info even if you are going to send your PCM to some remote tuner to get the VATS disabled, at least now you can maybe give him or her a list of other things to do as well, like:

1. Change my RPM signal to 8 cylinders
2. Set my tire size
3. Here's my rear end gear ratio
4. Please turn off EGR and disable the associated diagnostic codes
5. Please turn off EVAP and disable the associated diagnostic codes
6. Please turn off the CAT heating and protection and disable the associated diagnostic codes
7. Please configure my fuel tank capacity for 16 gallons
8. Please turn off the speed limiter
9. Please enable Power Enrichment
10. etc, etc...

please provide me with a copy of my Stock File before making any changes on a DVD or a USB stick

please provide me with a copy of my New Tune File on a DVD or a USB stick

hope this helps,
G

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Kermitt47

Thank you Gregski for taking the time to break down and document a very complex program into small logical bits that us neophytes can follow along and gain some comfort level without feeling buried and afraid of blowing things up. Your efforts and those of others like ChopperDoc are appreciated.

You're welcome.

Originally Posted by Kermitt47

Have you taken a look at the Gen V LT programming with the HP Tuners and is it similar or very different?

I have not, I am really into older cars A '54 named Busty like the carb world because it takes my mind off the high tech crap I do in my regular day job, but eventually the geek in me comes out and that's why I graduated to the Gen III (1999-2007) engines, and they are a great mechanical design and not just due to the computer control, however not sure I want to take it further and go beyond that, I am not a big fan of all that shut some valves / chambers off to save fuel/economy tech and alternative fuels etc. So just a simple man trying to get by.

[saon]

sub'd

[neal64ss]

Just got caught up and subscribed. You are very good at explaining complicated things in a simple way. I hope you continue on with some info on tuning as this is where I have had trouble understanding the process.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by neal64ss

Just got caught up and subscribed. You are very good at explaining complicated things in a simple way. I hope you continue on with some info on tuning as this is where I have had trouble understanding the process.

*** Please learn to tune a stock engine first before making any mods! ***

Thank you, yes of course, I like interaction so I will sprinkle a little primer here for you. Not sure if you have experience with carburetors but for those of us who do, I sometimes use analogies and comparisons. Point being when I was learning I would look at a carburetor and go "oh carburetor" as in one thing one piece one system. Now when I look at a carburetor I go "hmmm, ok that's the choke, that's the idle circuit, that's the accelerator pump, those are the main jets, those are the secondary jets, that's the power valve circuit, etc" I now see it as a collection of systems.

So what does that have to do with tuning fuel injection. Well we may have traded a flat screw driver for a laptop but the goal is still the same:

Mix the right amount of air with the right amount of fuel, at the right amount of time.

Great, so how do we do it? Well first we don't say I am going to tune my truck, or tune my engine. We must divide and conquer and be more specific. So the circuit names may have changed but the car still goes through the same stages, and so we pick a stage or a phase and tune it, once done we move on to the next phase.

0. start and warm up
1. idle
2. cruising
3. acceleration phase
4. WOT (Wide Open Throttle)
5. deceleration phase

but before we even do that, let's ask ourselves are we about to polish a turd? let's think about it, as great as these little engines are, they are now turning 20 years old and 200,000 miles, do we expect their components to function as accurately as when they rolled off the assembly line, no of course not, so I am not saying let's go out there and replace every sensor on the engine, but let's at least make sure they are within spec first before we take to our laptop keyboards and start clicking and double clicking our mouseses

so let's do some basic checks, I absolutely love the following automotive thread I read about MAF sensor problems and what was done to fix it, please read it here MAF Sensor values on Scanner

Things we should do a basic check on to eliminate glaring problems:

0. are there any engine codes DTCs before we even start, ok let's be honest here you did an engine swap, did you even wire up the MIL light? Did you wire up the OBDII port, not being a wise guy I have spoken to guys who have not. Did you take the time to suppress all the benign codes like secondary O2s, EGR, EVAP, CATs, etc. so that you are not ignoring valid ones thinking it's just those.

1. What are the three key ingredients to great French cooking? ... butter, butter, and butter! Similarly what are the first things you should check and the easiest things to check and eliminate when your engine aint running right? Vacuum leaks, vaccum leaks, and vacuum leaks. Do you know the five areas to check for leaks on your intake manifold? If your engine idles like crap but the problem goes away as you rev it up to say 1500 or 2000 RPM and it seems to drive ok, I bet you have a vacuum leak. Do you know how to find it?

2. battery voltage (because now we are running electronic fuel pumps instead of mechanical and no matter what Walboro million dollar pump you shoved in the gas tank, if it don't get sufficient voltage it aint worth the money you paid for it) so is your battery 6 years old already, ha ha, what voltage does it read sitting still vs under load? what's the voltage at the fuel pump?

3. spark plugs and wires - (see MAF article link above) remove all the plugs label them with a sharpie pen and lay them out in front of you and stare at them, even if you don't know what you are looking for, do they all match, are they all the same coffee color or are the middle four WHITE and the outside four BLACK? type of thing I recommend OEM plugs and wires, let's not try to outsmart the army of GM engineers here, periodic tune up should be a no brainer, plugs and plug wires as well as an oil change should be done before dropping the new engine in the old engine bay, ha ha - or I'm telling gramps!

4. O2 sensor voltage - simple this should read between zero and one volt (.100 - .900) for the stock factory Narrow band O2s)

5. MAP barometric reading - this should match the weather app on your iPhone

6. fuel pressure - is this STILL within spec for your donor engine year make and model or is the fuel filter clogged or the fuel pump under performing, did you cheap out on the wiring and used what ever skinny wire you could find to wire in that new fuel pump? Did you ground it properly with a star washer to your thickly powder coated frame or POR15ed frame rail? Is it getting proper ground all the time?

7. MAF - did you move it from the ugly black plastic snorkle by the passenger side wheel well and mount it directly on the nose of the intake? If you did that did you change HP Tuners to tell it where it's at now? If not then it's probably giving you inaccurate readings, no wonder the MAF gets a bad rap. Also our engines have an Intake Air Temp sensor in the same box as the MAF so when you move the MAF you also relocate the IAT, talk about confusing the PCM!

etc. etc. etc.

I don't mean to preach or sound condescending or like a smart aleck I just want us to be realists and encourage critical thinking so we can analyze and better understand the changes we are making and why we are making them, and not just blindly follow along what some knucklehead is telling us to do on the InterWebs

[Gregski]

HP Tuners - Part VI - Disable the Speed Limiters.

There are settings in the PCM that turn off fuel delivery above a certain speed. In my case it was set to 98 miles per hour, your settings may differ. Now we all know you can't run moonshine at 98 MPH, ha ha, so let's increase that limit, essentially disabling the limiter.

1. On your laptop launch the Editor. Open the file we saved in Step 3 of Section F. (Our last saved file is always our starting point).

2. Make changes in the Editor, this time we will make changes only to the Speed Limiter settings found under the Speedo\Limiter tab. Enter 255 in the box next to Speed Limiter under Limit By Fuel. This means do not turn off fuel delivery to the engine until above 255 MPH. I have a drive by cable throttle, but it don't hurt to do the same under both boxes under the Limit By Airflow heading: ETC Speed Limiter and ETC Speed Limiter 2, I believe those are for Electronic Throttle Controls aka "drive by wire". (Additional instructions with each pic)

3. Save the changes you made to a new file and call it something like "12 - Turn Off Speed Limiter"

4. In your truck, hook up your HP Tuner to the OBDII port and then your USB cable to your laptop, turn the key to the ON position, launch the Editor program, and simply write the new changes to the PCM.

Note: sometimes you have to write the entire tune file to the PCM, sometimes it is perfectly happy with only writing what's changed, more on this later.

More words with each pic below.

[Gregski]

well at least this is above 88 MPH so getting Back To The Future shouldn't be a problem

[Gregski]

... another verse, same as the first, but a whole lot louder, and a whole lot worse, ha ha (who remembers that song?)