TA_C10: Stage 1

[Kronald_70GMC]

It looks like you were stacking tack welds as you put that back together. I've heard that you don't want to do that with thicker metal as it has a higher chance of cracking. I could be wrong as I'm not overly experienced at welding myself but you might want to look into that.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Kronald_70GMC

It looks like you were stacking tack welds as you put that back together. I've heard that you don't want to do that with thicker metal as it has a higher chance of cracking. I could be wrong as I'm not overly experienced at welding myself but you might want to look into that.

True. But, his heat affected zone looks decent which is an indicator that things got hot enough for penetration:

[Kronald_70GMC]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

True. But, his heat affected zone looks decent which is an indicator that things got hot enough for penetration:

Very true. Looking good. Keep it up!

[TA_C10]

Crap....

I guess I was so used to welding sheet this way I didn't think about keeping the petal to the metal and dragging/pushing the puddle instead on thicker metal...

This is definitely new ground I'm treading here.

I think I'm going to be ok like SCOTI was saying though. Even though I was overlapping the welds, I spent no time waiting from spot to spot so the puddle stayed cherry red as I stacked the very next spot on top of the other and I did that all the way around without stopping so it was continuous stacking. I also didn't move around at all, I just kept stacking on top the previous keeping it cherry red.

So my penetration to the back side looked really good to me. The pics you see are actually ground with a flap wheel just a tiny bit to clean up the surrounding splatter so the penetration areas look less than what they really are.

If my tranny falls out while , then I will know better next time cuz I already painted the xmember and its going back in



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[TA_C10]

Anybody think me putting a few tack welds in the filter above did any damage to it internally?

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[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

Anybody think me putting a few tack welds in the filter above did any damage to it internally?

.

At first when I saw the picture, I did kind of worry about possible damage... but for some reason I was thinking it was a pump, and thought of the electrical components being burnt. I guess that would be a senior moment? Since it is only a filter with a mechanical regulator, (same set up as mine) I’m gonna bet your just fine. I probably would have done the same thing if mine snapped off. I guess time will tell! Your truck is looking great man.
Brian

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

At first when I saw the picture, I did kind of worry about possible damage... but for some reason I was thinking it was a pump, and thought of the electrical components being burnt. I guess that would be a senior moment? Since it is only a filter with a mechanical regulator, (same set up as mine) I’m gonna bet your just fine. I probably would have done the same thing if mine snapped off. I guess time will tell! Your truck is looking great man.
Brian

Thanks for the compliments, and I'm glad to hear you would do same thing lol. I think the same thing, its just a filter... My main concern was the heat may have melted some glue or burned the filter inside but I just did like 3 tacks real quick and not all at once...

[TA_C10]

This is what I'm doing for the rest of the week....

Wish me luck...

[TA_C10]

Parts are showing up a little at a time over past several weeks










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[TA_C10]

Pop quiz:

In the picture above showing my new brakes and spring kit? What did I forget to install in this pic?

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[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

Pop quiz:

In the picture above showing my new brakes and spring kit? What did I forget to install in this pic?

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E-brake hardware.

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

E-brake hardware.

Now that I see the pic, its a little hard to see what's missing... I forgot the small SA-Return Spring I had to take the wheel and drum back off after all that work...

[1971Stepside]

I need to order my brake line kit. Which part # (s) did you order? You were happy with fit? I've heard the stainless can be a bear. You are making much better progress than I am. Keep it up.

[TA_C10]

Let me gather those up and I will post them for you

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[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

I need to order my brake line kit. Which part # (s) did you order? You were happy with fit? I've heard the stainless can be a bear. You are making much better progress than I am. Keep it up.

Yeah man the fit was pretty darn good. There are a few tweaks that you can make but even if you don't it still fits like factory. I would say the only thing I don't like is how the factory set the rear diff clips on the diff cover side instead of on top or behind the diff. So the new kit of course follows that and puts the rear brake line right in front of the cover in front of the top few bolts so if you need to remove your diff cover its a pain in the neck... So if I had to do it all over again I might have bent the lines different back there and installed new clips.

I got the SS lines from LMCTruck. Good quality.

34-5532 DISC CONVERSION LINE KIT-SS 1 $229.95
30-1724 BRAKE LINE CLIP SET-13PC 1REQ 1 $19.95

And I went to rockauto later when I realized I needed those brake line retainers. But here is the LMCTruck part number:

30-1411 RETAINER-REAR AXLE T - You need 3 of them if you didn't keep your old ones. 2 up front, 1 on the rear axle.

Also, if you didn't retain your old brass T's connectors, you will need the one that came off the front above the K member where the lines T up to the master cylinder. The kit comes with all new ones EXCEPT THAT ONE for some weird reason... Oh and this may be because I converted to front DISC, they were drum before. There is a 3/16 T and 1/4 T. The kit comes with the 1/4 T if I remember correctly.

Hope this helps.

EDIT: I just realized the T you need to retain is the the one on the axle in back. The others come in the kit.

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[TA_C10]

And here are those brake line retainers I was talking about. I just installed them the other day. RockAuto.com, came in a pack of 4, pretty cheap too.







This is the junction in the back where it goes from hardline to softline down to the axle. Because of my new C-Notch, I removed the lower portion of the cross member here which of course had the brake line tab on it so I think I am just going to come up with something else, make a new tab of my own, or perhaps just use a clamp.

[TA_C10]

LS Headers - 1 3/4 long tube Speed Engineering

Little update. I had another thread asking about what to do on this issue. I ended up grinding away some of the motor mount top plate to clear the drivers side header. I was mostly concerned with the nylock nut and it being exposed after grinding back the plate and thinking the heat would melt the nylon in the nut. So I think I am going to get one of those "distorted thread lock nuts" or Fastenal calls them top lock nuts. This should work great.

But anyway, this clearancing worked great and now all I need to do if figure out how to stop the rust on the plate I grinded. They are coated with zinc or whatever and I ground that away.. I don't want to paint them either.... Gotta figure that out.

Header fits great now.








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[1971Stepside]

Thanks for the brake line info. I didn't keep anything from when I tore the truck apart (dumb on my part...I'll call that stupid tax). Plan to order these in July per my budget. Thanks again

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

Thanks for the brake line info. I didn't keep anything from when I tore the truck apart (dumb on my part...I'll call that stupid tax). Plan to order these in July per my budget. Thanks again

I have some pics of my brake lines on page 6 or 7 of thread if you want to see how they route and you can see that rear axle where the line travels in front of the diff cover. Not a huge deal it how it came from factory.

[TA_C10]

Update - E-Brake Cable Assembly

I took a break from troubleshooting my PCM tonight and got my e-brake cables assembled.

Details on PCM troubleshooting in another thread I started here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...23#post8510423


My transmission x-member because I flipped it interferes with the normal space the cables occupy but not by much so I just took fuel line and wrapped the supporting cables/rod where they touch the x-member and I think this will work just fine.

And I must say there isn't too much documentation with pics out there on how to assemble this stuff that I found so maybe these pictures will help someone in the future.

[TA_C10]

Updates

Well I pretty well finished my standalone wire harness. I haven't loomed it yet as I think I may have a bad PCM and i'm doing a lot of troubleshooting right now. My bluetooth adapter with Torque app cannot connect to my PCM sucessfully and my fuel pump is not getting 12v for trigger wire at relay via Green connector pin 9. Here is my troubleshooting thread on this: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...49#post8513149


Here is some picture porn for you guys, I know we all love to see pics


Huge mess of wires I removed from harness. I used lt1swap.com to do my harness and program the PCM/ECM.





Although I used lt1swap I decided to upgrade my fuse box to a six fuse/six relay box. Everything else I pretty much did what Brendan did in his videos.






For now I simply washed and cleaned up the truck intake for mockup. I also replaced the knock sensors while I was in there along with new valley pan and intake gaskets. The cam shaft lobes looked pretty good from what I could see. The timing chain seemed to be a bit loose but too hard to really tell from inside the valley pan so I am going to leave it alone for now. Engine upgrades coming in Phase II of this build later down the road.












I plan on making a mount for the PCM and fuse box on the rad support. Looks like I will have plenty of length to make this happen. The wire harness seems to fit pretty good as well after redoing harness. Once I get the PCM issue resolved I will loom the harness and complete it. Dual FAN relays are going in this fuse box. I think the headlight relays I may mount separate.

[TA_C10]

The LS LIVES!!!

C10 First Start - YouTube

[Scurry67]

Nice job man! You're kicking a** on progress!

[1971Stepside]

That's a great feeling!! Congrats

[TA_C10]

Update - PAINT!!

It's on like donkey kong





I have never done body work nor have I ever painted a vehicle before. Shoot the closest thing I have come to painting is with my Wagner Flexio 9_something lol.

I bought a starter set of 2 guns from Eastwood, Devilbliss brand. I also went all out and grabbed their starter setup of the DeKups system and I gotta say I had no idea what this really was but now that I have used it twice it's AWESOME! Disposable and reusable stuff. I can see how much time this saves.

I washed the cab with soap and water last Wednesday, it was raining outside so it was perfect time to wash it. Pulled it in the garage and dried it off with my leaf blower and towels. It sat in the garage like that until Sunday when I finally got around to it which was a mistake. It started surface rusting on me. Really it wasn't too bad but I was paranoid so I sanded almost the whole cab. Then I used some self etch from eastwood for rust inhibitor. Should be good

Then I got to spraying. Epoxy primer 1:1 from summit. Sprayed two coats and realized I didn't wipe off all the self etch. So I had so sand a lot of the epoxy back off again as you could see the runs behind the epoxy.


I should have known better but I got in a little bit of a hurry and this is what everyone tells you NOT to do... So from now on I will plan my time appropriately and go slow.

The picture above is how it sits now, all the bad spots sanded back down and re-coated with another layer of primer. This thing isn't going to be perfect, its going to be my DD. But it should look nice when I get done. Next steps are seam sealer, 2k primer, body filler, chit load of sanding, then finally some color.