1972 Chevy 4wd Longhorn Project: Never Ending Changes

[rkn463]

I just found this part of the board recently and spent the last few days reading over this thread. A few thoughts:

1) Bad ass!
2) at times I'm lost (I don't know all the lingo)
3) and to quote Jase from Duck Dynasty: "the suspense is killing me!"

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[ryanroo]

More suspense. Ryan is trying to let me get done first. he sidelined the longhorn for a little bit to work on some car...

[6BT 56]

Ryan I need your help.

I got the eng in my 56 all hooked up and good to go. Im having trouble with air in the system. Im using a raycor filter that has 2 inlets and one outlet. running my return line right back into the filter housing mounted on my firewall. Juist have one line from my tank into this filter . this sound ok to you? what does dodge do with there Returnline ? Does it need any kind of a restriction ? or maby 1 way check valve ?

Any help would be appreciated.

[skchevota]

Originally Posted by 6BT 56

Ryan I need your help.

I got the eng in my 56 all hooked up and good to go. Im having trouble with air in the system. Im using a raycor filter that has 2 inlets and one outlet. running my return line right back into the filter housing mounted on my firewall. Juist have one line from my tank into this filter . this sound ok to you? what does dodge do with there Returnline ? Does it need any kind of a restriction ? or maby 1 way check valve ?

Any help would be appreciated.

The way you have your fuel plumbed will work once all the air is removed. Dodge runs there return back to the tank. The way you have yours will have the air running an endless loop. It would work much better to run your return back to the tank. The added Benifit is a supply of "cool" fuel coming from the tank not preheated in a constant loop untill burned .
Hope that helps
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[6BT 56]

Yep endles air was my problem. I got it running thismorn. Was cranky but Im going now. I have ditched the return to the filter and just have the return going into a bucket at the moment . Jusy thinking how I want to tap another line into my tank.

Thanks chevotia. You have a thread for your truck ? Sounds nice !

[skchevota]

Originally Posted by 6BT 56

Yep endles air was my problem. I got it running thismorn. Was cranky but Im going now. I have ditched the return to the filter and just have the return going into a bucket at the moment . Jusy thinking how I want to tap another line into my tank.

Thanks chevotia. You have a thread for your truck ? Sounds nice !

Your welcome! Glad you got it running. I had an old build thread on mine when I had it on the original frame and running a 12 valve. It's been parked for about 5 years since I started my shop. Haven't had the time or $$ to move forward with it. I will have to get a new thread going on it one of these days . I need a shop build ! Lol
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[watahyahknow]

doesnt the tank have a ventline in the top of the filleropening ? you might be able to put the returnline in there and use a tiny hole in the gascap for a vent another option would be to brace an extra tube intoo the fuelsender , you can remove that away from the tank and the diesel in it

[ryanroo]

on my jeep i plumbed the return into the filler neck.

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

on my jeep i plumbed the return into the filler neck.

Keep in mind, for a diesel, you don't want the return line just dumping into the top of the tank, you want to run a hose down into the existing fuel to avoid aeration.

[6lcummins]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

Keep in mind, for a diesel, you don't want the return line just dumping into the top of the tank, you want to run a hose down into the existing fuel to avoid aeration.

Unless you have a good fuel system that traps and removes the entrained air in the fuel as sloshing entrains oxygen/air in the fuel so either way the oxygen/air is in the fuel.

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

Keep in mind, for a diesel, you don't want the return line just dumping into the top of the tank, you want to run a hose down into the existing fuel to avoid aeration.

I've had it this exact way on my 95 F-350 for 2 1/2 years with no problem. It runs down a tube and into the tank from the very top. Factory ford engineered tank too.

[Mustard72]

So do you Ryans end up with the tops of the GN hitches about 1" above the tops of the frames? I did a quick measurement on Old Mustard tonight and it looks like it would need to be 1" to be flush with the top of the bed floor. Just wanted to see if that's what you guys used, too. Looks like right around 1" from your pics. Mine's going in a wood bed C20.

[wutnxt]

Hey...

Your working on some car?.....
I can't wait much longer for you to finish this truck......so i can borrow it and tow one of my slammers with it.....lol. You might have convinced me to revisit my CC big block dually after all.

[6BT 56]

Hey Ryan . What trans mount have you been using on your swaps. Im at that stage now . Not too sur if I want to use the 93 dodge style mount on mine or not .

[1985-GMC]

Check out ryanroo's mount, that's what I would do.

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by 6BT 56

Hey Ryan . What trans mount have you been using on your swaps. Im at that stage now . Not too sur if I want to use the 93 dodge style mount on mine or not .

Originally Posted by 1985-GMC

Check out ryanroo's mount, that's what I would do.

Yes, I'd do a mount like his if you can. On this truck right now I have 2 poly bushings under the trans and the cross member is bolted to the cross member through the bushings. But I'll be redoing the trans cross member due to boxing the frame there. You could use the stock dodge trans mount and make a new lower plate to weld to your cross member. That way you can walk into a parts store and buy the mount and build it today and move on.

[ryanroo]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

You could use the stock dodge trans mount and make a new lower plate to weld to your cross member. That way you can walk into a parts store and buy the mount and build it today and move on.

That was my original plan. parts store availability. but with a poly bushing, the odds of it going south are pretty low. so its a build it once and never think about it type thing as well. the reason i went poly was to match the material the engine mount was made of. and the stockers have a bad reputation.

also, i think its bad business to mount the crossmember to bushings at the frame. it gives the drivetrain a lot of leverage on the bushing and therefore will move more than it would if the bushing is centered

Ryan

[mosesburb]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

also, i think its bad business to mount the crossmember to bushings at the frame. it gives the drivetrain a lot of leverage on the bushing and therefore will move more than it would if the bushing is centered

Ryan

I agree. A couple people I know did this and it did not end well for either of them. Now, that being said, they were not street-only vehicles, but I used their R&D to decide I wasn't going to copy them.

[watahyahknow]

there might be some leaking happening with the return so high up in the tank and the lack of a breatinghole might put the tank under vacuum as the diesel gets used , the second idea about the return intoo the fuelsender might be a better idea

[Dieselwrencher]

I had Ryan measure his for me and he said 3/4". That is the distance from the short bed supports to the frame on steel bed trucks. I measured a half ton steel bed truck I have here and the floor is 1", and the support does hang down 1/4". Hope this helps.

[ryanroo]

the hat channels that run under the steel floor on both the beds i measured were 3/4" and the bed floor ribs are ~1/4" so from the top of the floor ribs to the frame is about 1 inch. for me to make the hitch work, so the top of the plate was at the bottom of the floor ribs it was spaced up 3/4" and the center circle where the ball is is set up the 1/4" so it sits even with the top of the ribs. since the wood on a wood bed is sitting on the frame, you will have to cut several of the boards in half at the hitch and you will be able to see the entire hitch plate.
Ryan

[Mustard72]

Cool. Thanks. Yeah, I figured I'd have to support the boards where they need to be cut for the hitch.

Thanks again. I'm done pirating the thread now.

[Dieselwrencher]

Nick, it isn't an issue.

[Dieselwrencher]

I doubt I could afford the air in the tires on that beast!

[jbclassix]

Yours and Ryan's goose neck builds could handle the stress I am sure.