Glock's new project: "Fred" w/ 5.3L LS swap info

[djracer]

Originally Posted by fpjr0

Doesn't have a way to change to 4cyl. But from autometer it should work. I read from lt1 that all 2003 and up he had to use the resistor cuz the signal not being strong enough. I just could find a 1/4 watt resistor

Which tach do you have? Part number please? Most autometers have loops that you cut to select 4,6 or 8 cylinders.

As far as the resistor I wouldn't think the resistor being 1/2 watt in stead of 1/4 watt would not matter.

[fpjr0]

Originally Posted by djracer

Which tach do you have? Part number please? Most autometers have loops that you cut to select 4,6 or 8 cylinders.

As far as the resistor I wouldn't think the resistor being 1/2 watt in stead of 1/4 watt would not matter.

I dont know the part # however
just in case some of you run into the same problem when installing a tach. I did the resistor trick, and it works... just the needle kind of vibrates but works good,, here is a pic.... sorry about the constant threadjacking Bob gonna start my own so I can stop jacking threads lol

[nlped]

Hey Bob, question about your 3.42 rear gear. With the 4L60e, are you happy with that gear? I am about to pull the rear out from under the blazer and put a posi & gears in it (it has a 3.07ish in it now) and since the plan now is to put the 5.3 and the 4l60e in it now, so I thought you would be the man to ask . I'll be running a 28" tall tire.

Thanks,

Ed

[glock35ipsc]

Love it! It's the perfect all around gear in my opinion. On the interstate at 80mph the engine is turning just over 2000 RPM. Right when I want it.

** Edit to add - I'm running a 28" tire too.

[nlped]

Thanks for the quick feedback! I will order them right now then .

Is the a/c done yet

[nlped]

And, now there ordered , along with an Auburn posi that I found for a smokin' deal and all the bearings and seals

I'll be askin' you lots of questions now that I have made the decision to put the 5.3 in the Blazer

[bigdnew]

Where did you find the set up.

Originally Posted by nlped

And, now there ordered , along with an Auburn posi that I found for a smokin' deal and all the bearings and seals

I'll be askin' you lots of questions now that I have made the decision to put the 5.3 in the Blazer

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by nlped

Is the a/c done yet

LOL, funny you ask. The parts house just called to say that the condenser I ordered is in. I have all the major parts I need other than o-rings and the manifold seals. I can probably get those tomorrow.

Originally Posted by nlped

And, now there ordered , along with an Auburn posi that I found for a smokin' deal and all the bearings and seals

I'll be askin' you lots of questions now that I have made the decision to put the 5.3 in the Blazer

Ask away!

[nlped]

Hey BigDNew, I shot you a pm so I'm not hijacking Bob's thread...too much

[bigdnew]

Originally Posted by nlped

Hey BigDNew, I shot you a pm so I'm not hijacking Bob's thread...too much

ditto, sorry bob.

[nlped]

Wouldn't the stock condensor work? Or was it "time" for one?

[glock35ipsc]

No problem guys!

I wanted to replace the condenser and the accumulator with new ones, 1] because of switching from R12 to R134A it is easier to just swap them than to clean them both of the old refrigerant and oil, and 2] the OEM condenser was a little ratty looking and was tweaked here and there. The accumulator had already been replace some time ago with a R134A compatible one, but it was only $30-something for a new one so I figured WTH.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

No problem guys!

I wanted to replace the condenser and the accumulator with new ones, 1] because of switching from R12 to R134A it is easier to just swap them than to clean them both of the old refrigerant and oil, and 2] the OEM condenser was a little ratty looking and was tweaked here and there. The accumulator had already been replace some time ago with a R134A compatible one, but it was only $30-something for a new one so I figured WTH.

Bob,
Is it the R12 oil or residue that kills the direct swap out to r134? I think the 86 has been changed to r134 not sure. I know the "descicant dryer" should be changed any time the system is cracked, but not sure about the accumulator.?
I thought about just changing the dryer and orings and doing the r134 conversion, I assume since I don't know what is in there I should just change everything? You know how much that will cost on the oem parts not LS? Remember, this is a super low buck project.here

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

I know the "descicant dryer" should be changed any time the system is cracked, but not sure about the accumulator.?

The receiver drier and accumulator is the same thing basically.

I thought about just changing the dryer and orings and doing the r134 conversion, I assume since I don't know what is in there I should just change everything? You know how much that will cost on the oem parts not LS?

If you blow out the system you should be OK with just the accumulator. A new one was $30-something, and the condenser was $110.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

The receiver drier and accumulator is the same thing basically.


If you blow out the system you should be OK with just the accumulator. A new one was $30-something, and the condenser was $110.

Okay thanks, I was thinking the accumulator is the coil that the fan blows the cold air across. My bad.

[nlped]

Gotcha! And I always replace the accumulator if I open the system...it's will get contaminated with a quickness.

[glock35ipsc]

That one is the evaporator.

[ERASER5]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

No problem guys!

I wanted to replace the condenser and the accumulator with new ones, 1] because of switching from R12 to R134A it is easier to just swap them than to clean them both of the old refrigerant and oil, and 2] the OEM condenser was a little ratty looking and was tweaked here and there. The accumulator had already been replace some time ago with a R134A compatible one, but it was only $30-something for a new one so I figured WTH.

There will be absolutely no R12 left after a proper vacuum. The accumulator does need to be R134A compatible due the desiccant bags. R134A will generally destroy the R12 bags. The old oil (3G mineral oil) does not need to be removed. The old oil will settle in the low points and in the compressor and not affect the system any more. A little 3G oil will keep the compressor a little cooler.

[QUOTE=glock35ipsc;3896883]The receiver drier and accumulator is the same thing basically.

Not even close. The are the opposite of one another. Both do have desiccant bags. The receiver only lets high pressure liquid pass and the accumulator only lets low pressure gas pass. The receiver system uses a TXV system and the accumulator uses an orifice system.

Replacing the desiccant any time you open the system is completely unnecessary unless you leave the system open for many hours, like all night with high humidity. A good vacuum pump will be able to pull out any moisture after a few hours. Vacuum is of utmost importance when servicing a refrigerant system.

[JCampbell]

*Subscribed*

[glock35ipsc]

So where is the receiver on my 85?

[ERASER5]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

So where is the receiver on my 85?

Orifice tube systems do not have receivers. They have accumulators, which you have.

[djracer]

this should be the tach you have but you have to use a paper clip to flip switches.

http://www.autometer.com/productPDF/...sh%20tach).pdf

[menace121978]

[glock35ipsc]

That's kind of what I meant when I said they are basically the same thing. It either has a receiver, or an accumulator. Not both. Yet they both share the same basic functions of filtering debris, storing liquid, and removing moisture.

[Driveway Dreams]

Good progress again! I say A/C is over rated...of course I say otherwise as soon as it hits 80* here. So, real A/C would be nice in the truck. (Instead of the "2-50 air")