K30 Downgrade to Cummins Project

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by COS399

Just my opinion but I think everybody might have shifted over to a quicker platform. This is kind of like writing a letter and almost everyone wants it now and they don't want to wait. Keep posting and I will keep reading along.

That issue with all the lost photos didn't help either.

I think your right, maybe I can link posting here to a social media site to draw in that crowd

I'll keep posting here regardless.

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Jud, which tow hooks are you looking for? Just the standard ones that came on these 80s square bodys?

I know a lot of the guys that used to post in here just got too busy and don't get on here much, or they moved on to other social media sites. But I feel this is still a better place to get and find info. Especially for your own builds.

I agree, seems easier to compile and search here.
Yep, just a set of standard square body hooks.

[Roaddogg]

I'm watching it. Don't quit posting updates!!

[gmikkels]

Me too, I check the diesel conversion page every day.
Special THANKS to the dieselwrencher for all the good info.
Gene

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by Roaddogg

I'm watching it. Don't quit posting updates!!

Originally Posted by gmikkels

Me too, I check the diesel conversion page every day.
Special THANKS to the dieselwrencher for all the good info.
Gene

Thanks guys, this helps motivate me to post. I've been making progress and will share some info and pics. I agree, Dieselwrencher is a big help for sure!

I'm having a couple other issues with the forum as far as posting goes and maybe that is also driving people away. 1). the forum will not allow me to log in on my phone so its a pain to post pics!! 2.) it keeps rotating my pics when I upload them- ggggrrrrrr! I guess I need to flip them sideways in advance so they are right side up when the forum touches them. It didn't do this in years past.

I cut out the core support down to the frame rails since the big radiator would otherwise hit the hood when the hood was closed. I have been test fitting with the intercooler and leaving enough room for AC condenser. The first pic below shows position mock up with rad sitting on rails and IC in front. It will come back close to an inch from here to allow the condenser to fit and still use the stock dodge fan shroud. I am basically going to have to design and make the whole center section of the core support from scratch and I can't use the stock mounting perches since the rad and IC need to practically touch the frame rails, just leaving enough clearance for vibration through the rubber mounts. I think I will have steel tubing rigidly bolt to the frame rails and then extend out to a relocated rubber bushing that is basically under the headlights. This way I keep the principle of damping the vibration to the fenders and grille but allow the rad/IC/condenser as far forward as possible. I now have a good 2" of clearance to the engine driven fan. I am trying to move the fan shaft up 1 inch or a bit more on the engine to better center the fan in the shroud. There are actually 2 holes 1 inch above the stock holes, but I need to figure out how to get the other 2 bolts tied to something. I don't feel comfortable drilling and tapping the block. I may CAD up a fan shaft/bearing housing and machine it or I may be able to fab up a way of clamping it to the block from neighboring holes on the front of the block. I went ahead and bought a 2nd gen condenser and AC compressor from Rock auto along with a bunch of other parts.

Decided I would rather fabricate the engine accessory mounts than buy something since the costs are adding up quick and I enjoy the fab work.
I was able to make some good progress this weekend on fabricating up a mount for the AC compressor and modifying what was there for a high alternator mount. I am using what used to be the top support for the alternator as the bottom mount for it. I cut the compressor mount off the AC/water inlet and will bolt it to my steel fabricated bracket. I am going to have to relocate the tensioner, and actually toss the 2nd gen one and get one from 3rd gen since it tensions in the opposite direction. Now I am wondering what lengths I can buy the 8 rib belts in. I need to wrap a string around everything and get a measurement.

[Vintage Windmills]

I have more pics and info to share but want to let people digest/respond to the last post first.

[Dieselwrencher]

Back in 2007 or so I built the alt and AC comp brackets for the 12v in my Dad's 91 f350. Have you looked at the industrial 5,9 tensioners to see if they'll work for you? I've had very little luck with the 3rd gen after market ones living short lives. Would an intercooled 1st gen fan hub suite your needs better? They are raised up a little more than the 2nd gen ones. You could make your own mount with DOM, flat plate and gussets. Tony made one for his suburban but I'm not sure he posts on here much anymore. I'll message him and have him put his pics here. I sent you an email with a pic of some hooks too.

[Vintage Windmills]

THis pic flipping is maddening. Even if i preflip it, anticipating a flip, it still effs it up GRRRRR.

[Madkidd007]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

THis pic flipping is maddening. Even if i preflip it, anticipating a flip, it still effs it up GRRRRR.

WHat are you using to take the pictures?

[Vintage Windmills]

iphone then putting them on my laptop since i can't log into the forum on my iphone. Is there a tech support area on the forum?

EDIT: found this https://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vbo...d.php?t=743225

[randy500]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

iphone then putting them on my laptop since i can't log into the forum on my iphone. Is there a tech support area on the forum?

EDIT: found this https://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vbo...d.php?t=743225

I will add that if you post directly to the forum using iPad or iPhone, horizontal works.
If you upload a photo taken with iPad or iPhone it doesn’t matter how the picture was originally taken it will be sideways.
If you edit a picture previously taken to be sideways then post, you will get random results. If using iPad or iPhone the best way is take the pic horizontal via manage attachments.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by randy500

I will add that if you post directly to the forum using iPad or iPhone, horizontal works.
If you upload a photo taken with iPad or iPhone it doesn’t matter how the picture was originally taken it will be sideways.
If you edit a picture previously taken to be sideways then post, you will get random results. If using iPad or iPhone the best way is take the pic horizontal via manage attachments.

How do you login from iphone and ipad? I pull up the site and it never allow the login to complete. Is Safari not compatible?

[Madkidd007]

Looks like a good solution to your fan problem, I was lucky enough to use a 1st gen setup. Like the idea on the factory air cleaner, but function would be horrible. Remember these things use a ton of air and that’s what keeps it from being Smokey and hot. Just thought I’d show you my setup, eBay pieces together for $55 total and it actually has a fresh air supply under it thanks to a rotted core support

[Vintage Windmills]

Has anyone used one of these kits? How hard is it to swap the gear onto the Chevy pump? I'm fighting getting enough clearance by the motor mount on the driver side with the vacuum pump mounted power steering pump lines touching the mount. Also I have zero need for the vacuum pump unless I use stock squarebody AC components. Even those I'm not sure if they need vacuum or not.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Saginaw-sty...frcectupt=true

Originally Posted by Madkidd007

Like the idea on the factory air cleaner, but function would be horrible. Remember these things use a ton of air and that’s what keeps it from being Smokey and hot. Just thought I’d show you my setup, eBay pieces together for $55 total and it actually has a fresh air supply under it thanks to a rotted core support

haha, yeah its probably not practical but perhaps I could use the bigger later squarebody snorkel and air cleaner setup that runs towards pass fender Maybe it will just be for decoration or to do some other function, like house a under hood work light or wiper fluid or something

[Madkidd007]

I have zero experience with that setup so i can’t say, on my 70 I kept it as to actuate the vacuum doors for the HVAC and the heater control valve. I was able to get away with a tiny notch on my 1st gen dodge mounts but perhaps in your case you could use a stock mid 80s up gm metric line. I’m using the cummins pump with 88-99 lines as they all seem to use the 18mm and 16mm thread connections.

[Vintage Windmills]

Here is the crossmember so far. Got it cut and tacked together last night. I looked into modifying the TH400 Xmember but it always hung lower than I liked and it would have been harder to modify than building this out of 2x2 square tubing, some plate and 3x3x1/4 angle iron. I;ve got new stock rubber mounts for the Getrag application just sitting on there.

[gmikkels]

Looks Awesome!!!

[Vintage Windmills]

Trans Xmember fitting complete. May put some other angle braces on to tie to the side of the frame as well, we'll see. The angle iron that mounts to the frame is 1/4" thick so its pretty strong actually.

Also it doesn't look like progress but it is, got the engine and driveline out for the final frame and crossmember welding and driveline rebuild/resealing. I think I'll make the engine xmember center piece bolt in in case I need to touch the oil pan at some point.

[Vintage Windmills]

The stock 1st gen dodge downpipe wont clear the firewall. Its a pretty large radius. Does anyone know of a good option? My HX35 outlet is only 4.25" from the firewall. Good thing is the industrial manifold keeps it down a bit.

Will these options fit?
https://www.dieselconversion.com/exh...l#!prettyPhoto

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...saAmUJEALw_wcB

[Madkidd007]

All I did on mine was use a piece of mandrel 3.5” pipe and cut it down so part of the bend is actually where I cut it. Then welded it to my flange. Cutting I the bend will give you a little of an oval but easily rounded with a hammer.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by Madkidd007

All I did on mine was use a piece of mandrel 3.5” pipe and cut it down so part of the bend is actually where I cut it. Then welded it to my flange. Cutting I the bend will give you a little of an oval but easily rounded with a hammer.

That looks like a good solution. Is your exhuast 3.5 inch all the way out the back?

[Madkidd007]

No, inches past the frame rail it goes to 4” all the way back. My theory was the outlet in the turbo is smaller than 4” so going this route isn’t a bottle neck. Then as the temp cools the velocity of the gasses slows so I stepped it to 4” to keep back pressure down, with 5x12s and the he351 I’ve yet to get over 1100 degrees trying to make it run hot

[Vintage Windmills]

adding a couple ports to the G360 to accommodate the widely recommended 1 to 1.5 qt overfill procedure.

1st pic is of where the fluid comes up with 1qt overfill relative to right PTO cover bolts. The 2nd holes from the top would be a good check for 1qt over.

Pic of the ruler shows how the 1.5qt overfill is almost 5.25 from the top flange of the main case. The 1.5 qt overfill lines up pretty well with the top PTO cover bolt on the left side of case. Its important to note that the bolt holes on the right side PTO cover are higher than the left side PTO cover.

Regardless of being able to use left PTO cover bolt hole, I still added a 3/8" NPT hole on the left side of my case to put a pipe plug in to make it easier to check the level with a finger or wire. The 3/8" bolt hole is a little small for an easy check.

Also shown is top fill I added which should be easily accessible under the t case shifter boot inside the cab.

[Vintage Windmills]

Attached is a list of all the engine work done as part of the rebuild by Dieselwrencher. Can't remember if I ever posted this. All parts were genuine cummins parts unless noted.

Originally Posted by Madkidd007

No, inches past the frame rail it goes to 4” all the way back. My theory was the outlet in the turbo is smaller than 4” so going this route isn’t a bottle neck. Then as the temp cools the velocity of the gasses slows so I stepped it to 4” to keep back pressure down, with 5x12s and the he351 I’ve yet to get over 1100 degrees trying to make it run hot

Not sure I can fit 4" between the frame and tcase. I'm also running 5x12's but with an HX35W.

[Vintage Windmills]

I think I'm going to rebuild the tranny since its so convenient now and there may be some wear on the synchros. Hopefully I can get the shop to also clean up the bellhousing and adapter plate, they have a lot of crud on them.

[Madkidd007]

Well just how much suspension lift will you have? I think you’re doing a 4wd. My pipe actually goes over the frame between it and the inner fender with some clearancing. And it runs tight against the firewall and under the floor pan all the way back