Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.

[gerfunken]

Well, I got a little bit of time in the garage yesterday. I finished getting the Lokar shifter installed.

As you'll recall, I needed to fabricate a secondary pivot point in order for the actual articulation to happen. With the Lokar installed in the factory shifter location, it was directly above the pivot point on the transmission pan, and wouldn't move it.

So, a little bit of left over angle iron, some 3/8" bar, and a couple of 1/2" nuts, I was able to come up with this:




Then I put the transmission hump back in place.





And finally, got under the truck to hook up all of the linkages.

[gerfunken]

The other thing I did was to strip out all of the old P/S and H/B lines. Knowing that, and fighting with the pre-made lines, I knew that it would never work. I've decided to go with the AN Power Steering lines for the set up. I've seen simple drawings on how to set everything up, but decided to duplicate it so I could figure out all of the parts that I've needed. Hope that this can be a future reference to other's, so I'm also including the parts list from anplumbing.com. The total cost was under $200. It's a little bit pricey, but I figure that this will save me quite a bit of frustration.

I've kept the Dodge's power steering pump, and am also leveraging the old transmission cooler for the power steering system. That has some challenges since the low pressure lines on the P/S & H/B are 3/8", and the cooler is 1/2", but I've figured that out as well. The H/B and steering box are ordered from an '86 Chevy C/20. The other nice thing i sthat the AN Plumbing site also has the adaptors to go from the metric fittings to the AN specific sizes.

Hope that other's will be able to use this.

[legendman]

Nice vaca, truck is coming together nice too.

[gerfunken]

Originally Posted by legendman

Nice vaca, truck is coming together nice too.

Slowly but surely... it was good to see the video of yours under its own power. I'm hoping that I'll be there before too much longer.

[ryanroo]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm2608/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm2609/overview/

go with steel man. much better.

[gerfunken]

So, apparently I've been a little bit lax in my updates. It seems that summer has come and is now on its way out (except that it was still 107 here yesterday.) I've done a couple of little things, but most of the time has been doing other things on the "to-do" list. Spent a weekend cleaning up the yard, front and back. Hosted a surprise 75th birthday party for my father-in-law. Spent a weekend up at my grandparents, always hoping that this visit isn't the last time I see them. Spent a weekend drinking with my brother when he came down to visit. In all, they've been wonderful weekends, just not truck productive weekends.

So, I ended up pushing the truck out of the garage so I could get my work area cleaned up. With parts lying everywhere on the ground, and tools suddenly misplaced, I figured that it was time to clean up the garage. And, while I was at it, I could take a couple of pictures. While I really wish they were, "look what moved under its own power" shots, they're not. Oh well… anyway, I'd call these beauty shots, but we all know what my truck looks like.

Oh, look, I do have a garage.


My new 'Merican flag flying high.


The Dodge D-80 sitting under the bed. It looks like my axle width has increased by 4-6 inches. I didn't do before and after measurements, but it's got a much wider stance in the rear than it had before.


Smart aleck kids putting stuff where they shouldn't


My son was being a smart arse when he helped me bleed the brakes. We got done, and I came back out to find this new component "installed" on the truck, with the appropriate label. I guess I won't fault him too much.


The bump-stop that was added as part of the conversion.


Hooked up the air filter. Ended up using a propane bottle (top and bottom cut off) to add as the rigid piece inside the hose & filter so that I had something to clamp down on to.


And, a mess of Dodge wiring that is hanging over the side of the truck.


Well, at least I got the garage cleaned up, but oddly enough, there aren't any shots of a clean garage.

[gerfunken]

So, I'll preface this with:

In light of the conversation storm that came up after I'd already ordered (and received) the equipment to do my hydrobost and power steering plumbing, I went ahead with the process, instead of sending all of the parts back and ordering all new steel components. Yes, I know it's aluminum. Yes, I understand that there are those of you that are opposed to the direction I took. Yes, I assume all responsibility for the decisions that I've made.

That being said, I went ahead and did it anyway. Aside from a little bit of trimming of the left inner fender well, and building a bracket to keep one of the lines off of the steering shaft, I think it looks pretty darn good. And, some day soon, when the engine is running again, I'll be able to test it. But, it is currently in place and everything is tightened down to spec, so we won't continue to argue the point. (Or, rather, I won't, but feel free to voice your opinions.)

This was my punch list at the start...


Lots of pretty, new parts.




















And this was my punch list at the end. I got to cross 5 items off, and I'm pretty darn happy about that.

[gerfunken]

Well,
I forgot to report that I had some "slop" issues with my original shifter setup. While it was a solid set-up mechanically, I had not taken the rotational forces into account when shifting. There was a little bit of torque that would come into the shifter as slop.

Old Setup:


New setup includes a second shaft running in parallel to keep the twist out of the system.


And, as you could see in the first picture, after the transmission tunnel was cut up I hadn't had a chance to put the rubberized undercoating on it. So, I took the opportunity to do that since I had it out of the truck.


And, everything being put back together in the truck.

[gerfunken]

Since I finished up the PS/HB lines, and gotten the inner fender back in place, I went ahead and put all of the air duct work back in place. The color is what I had available in the house that wasn't balck, white, or primer. It shows a little bit yellow in the photos, but it's really tan.




Then I moved around to the other side, and worked on the radiator lines. Ran the two to the heater box, and bridged the two others that were open for the transmission heat exchanger. It's basically a quick bypass line.


This is the bypass for the heat exchanger, tucked behind the alternator.


Back to the Vintage Air system. I still need to figure out a cover for this. I've got a couple of ideas, but I really don't want to go back to the giant plastic sheet that came with the system.


All tucked under the turbo.

[dieseldude4bt]

I am concerned that with trans shifter mounted on the body and solid linkage to the trans that engine tork, frame twist or cab movement might shift the trans. I had that experience in the past.

[gerfunken]

Originally Posted by dieseldude4bt

I am concerned that with trans shifter mounted on the body and solid linkage to the trans that engine tork, frame twist or cab movement might shift the trans. I had that experience in the past.

That was a slight concern for me as well. I've got a shifter cable on stand-by if I need to go that route. Hopefully in a couple of weeks I'll have the truck running, and will be able to prove that one way or the other.

[Dieselwrencher]

All though I'm not really digging your trans linkage, I think it should be ok. I really think Lokar should have just provided a cable and some other brackets and that would be a sweet set up. Let me save you some time and hassle, GO GET ANOTHER TRANSMISSION COOLER AND INSTALL IT SOMEWHERE. That stock one located in the radiator isn't going to cool for crap and you will have issues. Like fry your trans issues. That yellow burb I did has 2 external coolers on it to keep the fluid below 160 and one cooler has an electric fan on it to be used while towing. Your trans fluid needs to be cooler than your engine coolant temp to operate optimally and the way you have it, it'll always be over 180* at when the engine is warmed up.

[68Cummins]

I second the separate tranny cooler. Build a bracket and mount off your frame and wire an e-fan to it, plumb 2 short lines and be done.

Looking at your To-Do list, you might look at my build if you haven't already.
I used my factory tank. Just had to drill a couple holes (vent and return).
As for wiring, there is not much to it. Hardest part is getting the right field wire combination for hooking up the Chrysler alternator/regulator.
I have done 2 now so it is becoming a walk in the park. Feel free to ask for help if needed.

[gerfunken]

Originally Posted by 68Cummins

I second the separate tranny cooler. Build a bracket and mount off your frame and wire an e-fan to it, plumb 2 short lines and be done.

Looking at your To-Do list, you might look at my build if you haven't already.
I used my factory tank. Just had to drill a couple holes (vent and return).
As for wiring, there is not much to it. Hardest part is getting the right field wire combination for hooking up the Chrysler alternator/regulator.
I have done 2 now so it is becoming a walk in the park. Feel free to ask for help if needed.

I really like how you've set up your fuel tank, it's simple and straight forward.



I was considering doing something similar, and staying with the stock tank, but then I decided I really liked the Dodge's 40-20-40 seat instead of my stock bench. After I put that in place, I realized that I couldn't use the stock fuel tank (evidenced by the second picture in the series below.)





So, after a bit of research, I've found someone using a tank from a square-body suburban. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=551269

I've done some cursory measurements, and also checked online. There are three sized tanks that the Suburbans came with:
25 Gallon: 28-3/4" x 28-18" x 10-3/4"
31 Gallon: 28-3/4" x 28-18" x 12-3/4"
40 Gallon: 35" x 28-3/4" x 13-1/8"
(Sizes verified on LMC Truck, O'Reilly & Napa Auto websites)

I think that the 40 gallon tank will be a bit too long behind the rear axle, but the size of the 25 & 31 should fit between the frame rails nicely. I've been putting this part off since it'll likely require a run to the junk yard to get all of the parts that I want to make this happen. Dragging everything around in a junkyard when it's more than 110 degrees outside didn't sound like fun, so I focused on other things. Now that those are starting to close out, I'm reviewing this option again.

Now, for the conversation around the transmission cooler. I don't disagree with any of the conversations or points that you guys have thrown out. I'm reviewing this option, and looking at a different implementation. While I agree with you on some of the points you've made, I'd like to hear more from you guys on this.

Ryan mentions that he worked to keep his at about 160. I've scoured the websites of transmission shops and ATF companies and seen that the max you should run is about 175. There's one website out there that discusses the temperature as it relates to longevity and provided a chart discussing the temp and how many miles it'll be good for before it breaks down. (Yes, it's the internet, so I know there's about a 50% chance of truth, which is why I'm actually asking for this discussion.)

Degrees F Miles
175 100,000
195 50,000
215 25,000

Basically, a ratio where every 20 degrees = a 50% reduction in the life of the oil.

So, if it's running at 185 degrees, then it "should" be good for about 75,000 miles.

I know that everyone's rig is a custom built application. Most of what I do in mine is camp and 4-wheel (like Mosesburb). At most, I have a 4x7 utility trailer that I pull behind my truck that I load with the stuff I don't want to have in my sleeping quarters when my camper shell is on. Adding to that, in the 14 years I've owned the vehicle, I've never put more than 3k on it in a year, mostly weekend driving for the home-owner duties, and a couple of hunting/camping trips a year.

With a better explanation of what I'm building the truck for, is this still a critical item?

(Again, I'm asking for feedback on the topic, this really isn't a "troll" trying to start a religious battle.)

[gerfunken]

Originally Posted by 68Cummins

As for wiring, there is not much to it. Hardest part is getting the right field wire combination for hooking up the Chrysler alternator/regulator.
I have done 2 now so it is becoming a walk in the park. Feel free to ask for help if needed.

Have you wired them up with the original chevy external voltage regulator?

[68Cummins]

Originally Posted by gerfunken

Have you wired them up with the original chevy external voltage regulator?

I have not done one with a Chevy External VR although if my setup pukes i will fabricate brackets for a GM 1-wire setup.

Past 2 i have done: used factory working dodge alternator. about a external regulator for 92 D250 ($16). I believe it is 4 wires. I could take pictures if you are not good at schematics like me.

Reason I used dodge Alt is because i already had it and was familiar with wiring it up.

Pros for GM 1-wire...
~Obviously 1 wire hookup (clean and simple) VS. Dodge 4 wires and a VR mounted somewhere
~New GM: $54 (Napa - w/o discount) VS. New Dodge $214 (napa - w/o discount)

Cons: Need to build brackets and swap pully

[gerfunken]

Well, I didn't get anything done on the truck this weekend, mainly due to the 1500 mile road trip I took from Phoenix to San Jose and back. But, I finally picked up the 1929 Ford. It took us a whole hour to get it running. New battery, replace some shorted wires, a little bit of starter fluid, and away she went. Here's a couple of pictures. Yes, I know this is a Ford car, not a Chevy truck, but we're all car lovers here, so enjoy.

[Dieselwrencher]

Scott, on the tranny cooler I say put a nice big one on now. If you are out trying to climb a hill and your trans gets hot, now you're against another hill and you need to climb it and the trans fluid boils and fries a clutch pack. Now you just cost your self a rebuild compared to just buying a decent cooler now. For $50 or so you should be able to get a decent one and will be better than what you have now.

[68Cummins]

Car looks beautiful. Coming from a Chevy/GM family, we don't hate on anything pre early 70's.
Myself owns 3, Step-dad owns 4 including 68Camaro and 65Cutlass, Dad owns 2 and in-laws own 3...

[ryanroo]

what a cool little cruiser that will be! swap a 4bt in it?

[gerfunken]

Originally Posted by 68Cummins

Car looks beautiful. Coming from a Chevy/GM family, we don't hate on anything pre early 70's.
Myself owns 3, Step-dad owns 4 including 68Camaro and 65Cutlass, Dad owns 2 and in-laws own 3...

Thanks.. We're all car lovers at heart, or we wouldn't do what we do.

Originally Posted by ryanroo

what a cool little cruiser that will be! swap a 4bt in it?

Not this one. I'm going to leave this one original. The 1930 Chevy, however... dare I say I've had very evil thoughts about a twin turbo cummins. There's something about this forum that contagious. Anyway, the 30 will be more of a hot rod than the 29 Ford. Now, it's just a matter of telling (asking) the wife when I'm allowed to start that one.

[6lcummins]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

what a cool little cruiser that will be! swap a 4bt in it?

Bad Ryan, 4BT would vibrate that thing apart lol

Originally Posted by gerfunken

Thanks.. We're all car lovers at heart, or we wouldn't do what we do.



Not this one. I'm going to leave this one original. The 1930 Chevy, however... dare I say I've had very evil thoughts about a twin turbo cummins. There's something about this forum that contagious. Anyway, the 30 will be more of a hot rod than the 29 Ford. Now, it's just a matter of telling (asking) the wife when I'm allowed to start that one.

Car looks sweet, glad you plan on enjoying it and just leaving it alone. As far as a compound Cummins in the 30, it won't take much to make that 30 scream.

[Dieselwrencher]

Just send me that 30 That enclosed trailer looks pretty nice! The 29 looks even better at your house. That's good it was easy to get going again!

[gerfunken]

Well, not much new to report on the truck. That being said, I did get a couple of pictures that I'll show here from the Good-Guys Southwest Nationals last weekend. I saw Nick's Suburban out in the parking lot, but didn't have my camera with me at the time (or it would have been included here for fun.)

Hope you all enjoy.

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice pics! Thanks for sharing! I really like that 39 Ford Coupe!!