1989 Suburban "V Rig" Gets Cummins Power

[1985-GMC]

One is left and the other is right hand threads right?
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[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by 1985-GMC

One is left and the other is right hand threads right?
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Yes, but you could use 2 rights or 2 lefts. You can't really turn the bar to adjust where you want it due to the bend in it. You still have to remove a tie rod and adjust it.

[1985-GMC]

Ah, makes sense. I didn't even think of that, durr...
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[v-man]

Help!!!!!!! These pulsating gauges are driving me crazy. I can't believe there's not a fix. I replaced 1 battery and installed new voltage regulator a early dodge 2 wire style. Have combed every ground I could find and cleaned and rehooked up. From my research it sounds like a bad ground can produce these symptoms. When the truck is first started it is fine and then after about 30 seconds everything starts pulsating, Gauges, lights, heater fan, heck even the motor sounds like its chiming in. Everything seems to work and system is charging just very annoying. Wondering if anyone has any ideas for a work around. The guys at the fire station are wondering if the voltage regulator has a weak capacitor. If so would ther be a better way to go. do they make a alternator with a built in regulator that would fit a 1st gen cummins. Any help or ideas would be welcome.

[1985-GMC]

Does it have a lope at idle? And does it do it just at idle or all the way through the rpms too?
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[v-man]

Dosen't seem to lope and pulsates all the through just not as bad at higher rpm's

[1985-GMC]

Sounds like it could be a bad regulator, have you checked what the alternator is putting out with a volt meter?
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[v-man]

autozone ran diagnostic's after i replaced napa's regulator with a new one. Alternator putting out 14.2 batts good alternator good regulator good. I'm in way over my head, but it seems like a regulator problem.

[v-man]

wondering if there's a better set up?

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by v-man

wondering if there's a better set up?

You can try a Ford external regulator. You can get one at any parts store. A 1991 Ford Diesel would have one.

You won't find much else for a First Gen dodge application other than what you have, or using a factory ECM..................

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by v-man

autozone ran diagnostic's after i replaced napa's regulator with a new one. Alternator putting out 14.2 batts good alternator good regulator good. I'm in way over my head, but it seems like a regulator problem.

After some research and talking with some others who run these dodge external regulators, this is just a normal characteristic with these.

[1985-GMC]

I would go and check everything over with a volt meter to see what's going on. What is your grid heater doing? Check your fuseable links too. A Chevy 120 amp v belt 1 wire alt should work, just change out the pulley for yours.
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[6BT 56]

The local Alt and starter guy converted my stock dodge alt to 1 wire. I saw it on the test bench . 14.7 V and 90 amps ? if I recall. I can ask what he did tomorrow.

Its on the truck now and seems to work well. I however have not had a volt meter on it yet. The lights go much brighter when you start the truck tho.

[v-man]

Happy days, Don't have the foggiest idea when it comes to electric. Ryan nailed it with the 91 ford voltage regulator. I just followed his diagram with some positive re enforcement and now the gauges and lights are rock solid no pulsing and the system is charging at 14.4 volts. Thanks Ryan

[mosesburb]

Originally Posted by v-man

Happy days, Don't have the foggiest idea when it comes to electric. Ryan nailed it with the 91 ford voltage regulator. I just followed his diagram with some positive re enforcement and now the gauges and lights are rock solid no pulsing and the system is charging at 14.4 volts. Thanks Ryan

Wow. Who'da thought you could fix a Dodge in a Chevy by installing Ford parts?? Ford electrical parts at that?!? Dogs and cats living together...... Glad you got it figured out. I dealt with a vehicle years ago that had a mild case of the fluctuations and even that was annoying as all hell.
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[ERASER5]

Originally Posted by mosesburb

Wow. Who'da thought you could fix a Dodge in a Chevy by installing Ford parts?? Ford electrical parts at that?!? Dogs and cats living together...... Glad you got it figured out. I dealt with a vehicle years ago that had a mild case of the fluctuations and even that was annoying as all hell.
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And Ducks!

[Indian113]

I love this Frankenstein! If it wasn't a "smoker" I would own one. This is Hot Rodding at it's best. Reminds me of the 60's when we would use ANY motor we could find to make our cars run.

[Ackattack]

I'm having the same issues with my lights pulsing using a 2nd gen dodge alternator and a dodge external regulator. Guess I'll try the f&^d regulator as well.

[v-man]

It's worth a try, my system is still rock solid.

[v-man]

Ok, It's no secret, I'm no mechanic, although i can change my oil, and do lots of misc stuff mostly with my skirt on, like dusting, windows and carpet. But i need some idea's. After driving the V-Rig for awhile now and Vizsla's finally getting used to the Cummins, I'm only getting about 10-11mpg with intown/highway driving and occassionlly pulling my 12ft H&H dump 4000lbs empty. I'll admit the newness hasn't warn off and it's hard for me to keep me foot out of the carpet. ? is this about right or should I be getting better milage.I used to get about 13 with my 7.3 manual f-350 dually towing or not. I read in some of these forums that 17-20 is possible. Also what fluids could i expect to have draining from crankcase vent. Looks to be watery oil, possibly diesel fuel with a little black oil? Some farmers at the cafe said that may I might have a bad injector. Does that sound right? Thanks for any help

[ryanroo]

pull the dipstick and smell the oil. if its runny and has a diesel smell it could be an injector.

[Dieselwrencher]

It could also be the injection pump input shaft seal leaking which can put diesel into the crank case. If it were an injector, it would either smoke horribly, run rough, cough, and the exhaust would smell of diesel fuel bad. In the crankcase vent you can get condensation in the hose and that can make the end look milky. This is also caused by crankcase pressure, sort of aireration.

The mileage being down may be due to the 3:54's and 35's. But, if this is combined with towing, it's hard to say for sure. The auto may eat some of that too with the gears and tires. Mine is a manual and does better than yours, but while towing it does drop down.

[v-man]

Ok, research update. with concensus with my tree buddy-no diesel in the oil, and liquid coming from vent tube could be condensation, watery with no diesel smell. Most likely diesel leak is water/ fuel separator valve on fuel filter. right know the filter is a Napa 3379 and I'm assuming thats a stock valve on the bottom. The only aftermarket filters with built in valve are Napa 3472 gold, A wix 33472, and it looks like fleetgaurd make a similar one but not as easy as the other two. Would either of those other options be good or not.

On another note the V-Rig got a foot peddle mod. I noted about a 3/4 inch amount of play in pedal before throttle engaged. I placed a old split shot line sinker on the throttle cable at the foot feet end and now have no slop and it feels like a additional 60hp. I think this might have been part of my problem. I have so much carpet and pad that I think i was having trouble advancing the throttle. I'll wait for some hopeful responses before changing fuel filter

[v-man]

whoops

[Dieselwrencher]

Tony, I have this Fleetgaurd filter on my truck: FS1251. It has no plastic water drain like the kind on your truck now. It has a metal drain valve in it like what's on a radiator. Napa may be able to cross that to a Wix number too. Yeah, that carpet sure bunched up below the gas pedal. It's probabaly like a new animal now!