Restoring Rusty

[LT7A]

Im pretty new on here so just came across your build thread and read the whole thing in a few days. I really, really like the idea behind taking a truck that you like as is, with bumps, scrapes, wear and tear, and deciding it's cool already. And then just improving it from there. Bravo! Uh, sorry, I don't think I've ever said that before, but your writing style is fun to read and encourages a little exclamation. Im a fan of wheeler dealers and get a kick out of your wheelerdealerspeak.

One question I had is the effect of muriatic acid or phosphoric acid on painted parts with rust. Some of your time lapse photos make it look as if you could use acid to clear/clean the rust off of some painted parts and if you rinsed the acid off in time that it would leave the paint intact. Would it or do I have that wrong?

Also, I read a bit that a VP at the maker of Chassis Saver (competitor of POR-15) wrote. He explained that neither product adheres well to smooth metal and that both manufacturers count on there being rust texture for the paint to adhere to. And that wire brushing and degreasing are the only needed prep steps. If you choose, you may be able to skip the acid on parts that you are going to POR on, and they may not even need the level of fastidious cleaning, although it's cool to watch.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by LT7A

Im a fan of wheeler dealers and get a kick out of your wheelerdealerspeak.

Finally someone who gets it, it only took 99 pages, thank you, ta da!

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by LT7A

One question I had is the effect of muriatic acid or phosphoric acid on painted parts with rust. Some of your time lapse photos make it look as if you could use acid to clear/clean the rust off of some painted parts and if you rinsed the acid off in time that it would leave the paint intact. Would it or do I have that wrong?

Good question. Please stay away from Muriatic acid, I probably misspoke or gave you some bad information if I brought it up, or maybe even used it and that was wrong and a mistake, I think I may have used it on the hood, and may need to re do it. Muriatic acid removes the rust but invites it right back in. Phosphoric acid removes the rust and keeps it from coming back, so use it.

I tried using Phosphoric acid to clean up my truck bed where the hooks for the ropes used to be, and left behind some rust, and the acid ran down the sides of the truck and ate through and ruined my paint, so I advise against it. I would not use it on painted surfaces, but I'm no expert, and you are reading this on the Internets so double check your facts, ha ha.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by LT7A

Also, I read a bit that a VP at the maker of Chassis Saver (competitor of POR-15) wrote. He explained that neither product adheres well to smooth metal and that both manufacturers count on there being rust texture for the paint to adhere to. And that wire brushing and degreasing are the only needed prep steps. If you choose, you may be able to skip the acid on parts that you are going to POR on, and they may not even need the level of fastidious cleaning, although it's cool to watch.

I believe that is correct (against my inner neat freak, but correct) my Mopar buddy was telling me that for years, but being my close friend naturally I didn't believe him, and dismissed it as Mopar lazyness (oh oh, there go more avid readers) I noticed it when painting my squeaky clean as a whistle Muncie SM465 transmission with POR-15 and the stick-it-to-it-avness just wasn't there, go figure. Wish you told me this earlier, jk!

I do love brush painting car parts though rather than aerosoling it, product goes a long way, and no overspray, and less masking.

[flashed]

I have never seen Wheeler Dealers but Im a fan of Gregski .

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by flashed

I have never seen Wheeler Dealers but Im a fan of Gregski .

You never seen the Best British Car Show on TV, and you call yourself an AMERICAN!? LOL

and thank you for being a fan, that makes two, jk

[green72s]

Originally Posted by Gregski

...

and thank you for being a fan, that makes two, jk

Count me in the fan club too. I look forward to every chronicle on this thread.

[Gregski]

December 22nd, officially first day of Winter (although the last few weeks have been cold as _ell - again by California standards, lol)

So as the Greg heads into self imposed hibernation, here is a thread to keep you going through the Restoring Rusty update withdrawals:

What can be said about the 4-speed New Process NV833 overdrive manual transmission?

It is a sneak peak at what's coming up come Spring time, a worthy read by a brilliant young scribe.

now don't worry we will continue with simple bolt on upgrades throughout the winter (with one nice surprise in January - stay tuned [hint and pun intended])

[flashed]

I have heard of the show but its not available in my current Directv package and I dont want to give them anymore of my truck money.Directv wants me to renew for 2 years and up my price and I wont do it.

[KQQL IT]

Originally Posted by flashed

I have heard of the show but its not available in my current Directv package and I dont want to give them anymore of my truck money.Directv wants me to renew for 2 years and up my price and I wont do it.

You'll have to go HD too. But the velocity channel is way worth it.

[LT7A]

Originally Posted by flashed

I have heard of the show but its not available in my current Directv package and I dont want to give them anymore of my truck money.Directv wants me to renew for 2 years and up my price and I wont do it.

I'm with you on keeping the cable/satellite companies from getting too far into my checkbook. I watch the bootleg copies on youtube. The quality is sometimes iffy but the accents and enthusiasm come through.

[flashed]

What is winter like there where you are ? Its unseasonably warm here this year but Im not complaining ,I hate cold weather.

[enaberif]

Rusty is getting Wideband.

[Gregski]

anybody know what this piece is? where it goes? where it lives? what it do? HINT: it may have a twin brother?

[Gregski]

after a little wire wheel love we can make out LTC, which I believe stood for Loves To Corrode

[Gregski]

well I just had to know why the driver side mirror holder fell down when the passenger side did not, so I removed the passenger side one too

and sure enuff there is a rather long thin screw that holds the mirror bracket to the triangle corner vent mirror area bracket, guess we will have to go buy one of them long skinny screws

note how rusty this guys little cousin is, nothing a bit of acid can't curb, we'll soak him in the Phosphoric acid and check on him tomorrow

[Gregski]

well since we had the door card off already on the passenger side, I decided I was a bit tired of my son not being able to roll down the passenger side window easily, as if he needed yet another reason not to go riding in daddys car, know what I'm saying fellers?

so first we took some pics of all the screws that may be responsible for holding the window rectifier on the inside of the door, and maybe a few innocent by standers

[Gregski]

and a few cuts and bruisers on the ol' forearms and the door window and regulator were on the garage floor

now I may not be the saltiest fry in the bunch but I believe the black plasticie roller wheel thingies ought to spin and turn freely, it appears as only one spins, another sorta wobbles and the third refuses all together

[Gregski]

oh Rust, oh Rust, you're no friend of mine

LMC Truck wants $50 bones per window regular, that's actually not bad, but I'm not sure if they come with the rollers already rivitted in, maybe if one of youz who have purchased one before from them could comment

also, did GM seriously reinvent the window regulator THREE TIMES, 1973, 1974-76, and again for 1977-87

I can see it now, Jimmy it says here you graduated magna cum laude from Cal Poly, boy do we have a project for you, you see these window regulators we have now in 1973, well they're all wrong, can you figure out a completely different way to make this here winder go up and down??? ha ha

[Gregski]

dance of the wire wheel

I also gave some love to the rusty sections of the window regulator before brushing it with some Phosphoric Acid, maybe I can save it, maybe all it needs is The Three roller Amigos (maybe I can get them at the local parts house)

[73kay]

Originally Posted by Gregski

dance of the wire wheel

I also gave some love to the rusty sections of the window regulator before brushing it with some Phosphoric Acid, maybe I can save it, maybe all it needs is The Three roller Amigos (maybe I can get them at the local parts house)

I just broke 2 of my wheels (got a little impatient with them)
And I'm curious if you can get new wheels otherwise time to hit the junkyard.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 73kay

I just broke 2 of my wheels (got a little impatient with them)
And I'm curious if you can get new wheels otherwise time to hit the junkyard.

Andrew we know you can get the rollers from online catalog places like LMC Truck, for $5 bucks a piece. Tomorrow I will check if places like AutoZone or NAPA have them locally.

I would advise against replacing a used piece such as the regulator with another used piece as it is a moving part and those rollers wear out. Chances are you will be replacing a broken part with another broken part.

[moody38]

Gregski and 73Kay--

As an alternative to the regulator sliders, you might consider something like this--

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Prime-Lin...-100183882-_-N

I found them when I ran into the same problem with the back window on a Bronco. I did have to grind down the roller pedistals and drill a hole in the regulator arm, but that was no big deal. They've held up fine for 10 years now and are available locally at most hardware stores. If they can handle that back window, I'm sure door windows would be no problem.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by moody38

Gregski and 73Kay--

As an alternative to the regulator sliders, you might consider something like this--

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Prime-Lin...-100183882-_-N

I found them when I ran into the same problem with the back window on a Bronco. I did have to grind down the roller pedistals and drill a hole in the regulator arm, but that was no big deal. They've held up fine for 10 years now and are available locally at most hardware stores. If they can handle that back window, I'm sure door windows would be no problem.

well dingle dangle bud, I may just could try them today - this could be the Redneck Fix of the year, and I mean that as a complement

[Gregski]

ok am I the only one who looks at the Window Regulator and thinks of the Executioner and his Axe?