Project Vitamin C-10

[Alan's Classic]

I'm also deciding on which brake fluid I should go with. I really don't want to use DOT3. I heard DOT5 is silicone based. It has several improved properties over DOT3. One being it won't eat the paint. What are your thoughts?

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

I'm also deciding on which brake fluid I should go with. I really don't want to use DOT3. I heard DOT5 is silicone based. It has several improved properties over DOT3. One being it won't eat the paint. What are your thoughts?

Yes DOT 5. I'm going to throw out all my DOT 3

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Strodder

I've done a few drive shafts. Have the drive line guy tell you where to measure from. He should have yokes to sell you too. It's easy. Not worth your time to find a used yoke.

Originally Posted by Strodder

Yes DOT 5. I'm going to throw out all my DOT 3

Thanks Dennis

Did a search on how to measure a drive shaft and found this place that I think had a good sheet to use.

dennysdriveshaft.com

[198plus]

Alan I've got a drive shaft complete that came out of my truck with 350 trans, that should be the right length...If you used your rear perch mount holes on engine. Let me know you can have it.

[Strodder]

Thanks Allan.

[chad64chevy]

alan what have you done to your truck lately? any updates????

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Strodder

That's kewl Allan.

Originally Posted by shortbed70

Nice patch!
Posted via Mobile Device

Thanks guys.

Originally Posted by chad64chevy

alan what have you done to your truck lately? any updates????

Thanks for asking. I haven't done a darn thing in over two weeks. There are numerous reasons. The main one I can contribute it too is working in a shop with 100+ degree and 150% humidity all day I'm pretty much spent by the time I get home. I know I'm not the only one affected by the heat. I guess it's a good reason to be lazy.

[Strodder]

Thanks for asking. I haven't done a darn thing in over two weeks. There are numerous reasons. The main one I can contribute it too is working in a shop with 100+ degree and 150% humidity all day I'm pretty much spent by the time I get home. I know I'm not the only one affected by the heat. I guess it's a good reason to be lazy. [/QUOTE]

I don't blame you/ I can't work in the humidity. When it's 110 here with very low humidity I can work in my shop. Lots of fans, and this year I installed a swamp cooler. Works good when it's a dry heat.

[shortbed70]

I've found my time is best used early in the morning when it's only 75 degrees out. This heat is no fun...Work in it all day welding then come home and work when it's 115 in the shop! No thanks.
Posted via Mobile Device

[awbrown]

It has been too hot !! That's my excuse.. and I am waiting on parts...

[Strodder]

It was only 84 here today with low humidity, and a slight breeze. Couldn't ask for any better weather.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Strodder

I don't blame you/ I can't work in the humidity. When it's 110 here with very low humidity I can work in my shop. Lots of fans, and this year I installed a swamp cooler. Works good when it's a dry heat.

How does that swamp cooler work with bare metal present?

Originally Posted by shortbed70

I've found my time is best used early in the morning when it's only 75 degrees out. This heat is no fun...Work in it all day welding then come home and work when it's 115 in the shop! No thanks.
Posted via Mobile Device

Originally Posted by awbrown

It has been too hot !! That's my excuse.. and I am waiting on parts...

Originally Posted by Strodder

It was only 84 here today with low humidity, and a slight breeze. Couldn't ask for any better weather.

Are you bragging?

Thought I would go out to the shop for a little bit to see where I ended. My cab to bed alignment is really confusing me. It's the same cab, bed and frame. The only thing that is different is new cab mounts. They also look to be installed correctly. I looked at a pic before teardown and it looked like it lined up a lot better. Nothing is tight right now, but everything is sitting on the frame. Thinking of shimming up the back of the cab. Both sides are the same.

[shortbed70]

Hey Alan we could swap beds because mine is on the lower side for some reason.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

How does that swamp cooler work with bare metal present?



Are you bragging?

Thought I would go out to the shop for a little bit to see where I ended. My cab to bed alignment is really confusing me. It's the same cab, bed and frame. The only thing that is different is new cab mounts. They also look to be installed correctly. I looked at a pic before teardown and it looked like it lined up a lot better. Nothing is tight right now, but everything is sitting on the frame. Thinking of shimming up the back of the cab. Both sides are the same.

It works great because the shop is fully insulated. An extra $2,200.00, but really worth it. And yes I'm bragging
I have the same problem you have with lining up, but I yet to make cab and bed mounts.

[aggie91]

Your cab/bed alignment looks off by a good 1/2" or more. Are you sure that the bed cross members are in the right locations? If you shim the cab won't that effect the core support/fender alignment too? I'm just guessing on the bed, from the pictures and what you did, I would think it should be off the other direction if any at all.

I know you will figure it out!
Posted via Mobile Device

[Palf70Step]

Maybe the difference in the height of the bed is the bed wood?

[1966chevytrucks]

Just a question Is the back of the bed sitting right it kinda looks like bed to cab gap is angled?

[daverod]

Kinda what I was thinking too.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by shortbed70

Hey Alan we could swap beds because mine is on the lower side for some reason.
Posted via Mobile Device

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

Maybe the difference in the height of the bed is the bed wood?

Thanks for the suggestion Bill. The wood spacers I have in there right now are 3/4" oak hardwood floor. That's the same thickness of the replacememnt floor, right?.

Originally Posted by Strodder

It works great because the shop is fully insulated. An extra $2,200.00, but really worth it. And yes I'm bragging
I have the same problem you have with lining up, but I yet to make cab and bed mounts.

At your alignment problems.

They offered to get us a swamp cooler at work, but thought it wouldn't be a good idea around bare metal and filler.

Originally Posted by aggie91

Your cab/bed alignment looks off by a good 1/2" or more. Are you sure that the bed cross members are in the right locations? If you shim the cab won't that effect the core support/fender alignment too? I'm just guessing on the bed, from the pictures and what you did, I would think it should be off the other direction if any at all.

I know you will figure it out!
Posted via Mobile Device

Thanks Karl, you are right about affecting other things. I took some pics posted below of all the mounting areas. I'm sure it's something simple that I over looked, I hope.

Originally Posted by 1966chevytrucks

Just a question Is the back of the bed sitting right it kinda looks like bed to cab gap is angled?

I agree with you. It looks like the bed is down in the rear or up in the front.

Originally Posted by daverod

Kinda what I was thinking too.

Here are some pics of all the bed and cab mounts. I got the cab bushings from a guy on ebay that said he didn't like them. The other thing I thought about is the cab bolts are not tight. Do y'all think the bushings will compress that much? They are poly bushings and I don't think they will. One the bed I installed the 1/4" rubber blocks that are repops form some supplier.



The two top cab bushings look differrent. I thought they should be the same. I just noticed that while reviewing the pics. I don't know if there is a thickness difference yet.









Radiator support

[Strodder]

Swamp coolers do not work in humidity. Air conditioning dries the air, swamp coolers add moister to the air. They work great in a dry climate like here in the high desert.

[CVA59]

Alan, Is that a spacer i see between the cross sill and the frame pedestals? If so, that is your problem. Take it out, the cross sills sit down flat on the pedestals.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by CVA59

Alan, Is that a spacer i see between the cross sill and the frame pedestals? If so, that is your problem. Take it out, the cross sills sit down flat on the pedestals.

It's a 1/4" rubber shim. I put it in there because they are sold to replace the old ones. I talked to 198Plus and he said he runs a thin piece of rubber. It will definately help by it not being there. The next time I go out to the shop I will remove them.

Here are the rubber blocks that I am referring to. By the discription it says "bed wood mounting pads." Does that mean they go between the wood and the crossmembers? That still doesn't make sense.

Pic Courtesy of truckandcarshop

[CVA59]

That is interesting Alan. I have never seen any such thing on any of these trucks originally. I would leave them out and see how the bed sits. A 1/4 inch there might make a big difference on the exterior body lines. My 61, 64, & 66 beds did not have these when i torn it down from their original condition. If i used anything at all i would not use anything thicker than a bicycle tube. There is really no need for it anyway. Once the bed is pulled down tight it should not be moving on the pedestal. Let me know if taking them out helps.

[Vernski]

When I disassembled my bed there were no pads present and I was wondering why Mar-K had included them. Now I know I'm not the only one that didn't have the rubber spacers between the cross sills....Vernski

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by CVA59

That is interesting Alan. I have never seen any such thing on any of these trucks originally. I would leave them out and see how the bed sits. A 1/4 inch there might make a big difference on the exterior body lines. My 61, 64, & 66 beds did not have these when i torn it down from their original condition. If i used anything at all i would not use anything thicker than a bicycle tube. There is really no need for it anyway. Once the bed is pulled down tight it should not be moving on the pedestal. Let me know if taking them out helps.

Thanks for the help and info. I removed the rubber pads tonight pics below. I still don't know where they are supposed to go.

Originally Posted by Vernski

When I disassembled my bed there were no pads present and I was wondering why Mar-K had included them. Now I know I'm not the only one that didn't have the rubber spacers between the cross sills....Vernski

Thanks Vern, just for clarification Mar-k didn't include them in my order. I got them some where else.

Removed the rubber pads. It is better, but not there yet. the passenger side is actually really close to where it needs to be. I looked at the passenger side rear cab mount and it has an extra washer just under the cab. There is one that stayed on the cab during the repair process. It looks like a permenant piece. Could it have been added at the factory? More than likely it was added during it's life. The driver side is still 3/8" off. I'm going to install a spacer under the drivers side rear cab mount to see if it will match the other side.