CH465 tranny removal

[kwlskid]

Where can one find detailed instructions for general maintenance and such. I have tinkered with VW's and I have the "How to keep your volkwagen alive" manual. It covers just about everything, with many little tips that one might not think of the first time they do something. Frequently I want to attempt a job, like say, removing my CH465 tranny to replace a noisy throw out bearing and possibly clutch, and see many obstacles that are not noted in my manuals, or seemingly impossible to find detailed info. on the internet.

Thanks!

[bikes&bowties]

I think you mean SM465. with is a 3 speed with granny low. If 4x4 drop a chain through the transfer case shifter hole and use a cherry picker to lower it down... otherwise you need to just use muscle haha

[leegrady]

Just change the gear oil.

Use 1/2 drive impact swivel sockets and long extensions with an impact gun to remove the transmission to engine bolts.

Replace all clutch parts, not just the throwout bearing.

Inspect the snout on the transmission that the throwout bearing slides on. It must not be flawed, so the throwout bearing slides smooth without woobles or hangups.

Trans removed is a good time to remove and renew the rear engine seal.

Machine the flywheel, and check the starter ring gear for defects. Torque flywheel bolts to manufacture spec'.

Make sure you install the new friction disc in the right direction.

Do a close visual inspection of the clutch linkage pivot ball screwed into the side of the engine block. I usually just go ahead and replace these to prevent the old one in service to break, and be a real pain to extract.

Clutch adjustment must be one (1) inch of free play at the pedal so that the throwout bearing comes to a complete stop when the clutch is not being applied.

Once I had this truck, and at idle when I'd apply the clutch the oil pressure light would come on. The cause was worn crankshaft fillet on #1 main. The throwout bearing would push on the back of the crank and because of crankshaft end-play oil would leak by the bearing. Anywho, keep those holeshots below 7k.

[Burlinator]

Originally Posted by bikes&bowties

I think you mean SM465. with is a 3 speed with granny low. If 4x4 drop a chain through the transfer case shifter hole and use a cherry picker to lower it down... otherwise you need to just use muscle haha

It was also known as the CH465. Instead of muscle or a chain I use a motorcycle jack and blocks and I find the easiest way to remove/install is leave the bellhousing on the engine and just take out the 4 bolts holding the trans, then pull the bellhousing and clutch assembly off

As for detailed instructions it is a quite simple fix(just alot of grunting and cussing hahha)

1. Remove driveshaft(s), speedometer cable, shifter(s) and any springs on your clutch linkage and reverse light wires
2. Support rear of engine to avoid damage to dist/firewall
3. Support the transmission with a jack or a strong helper
IF you have a 4x4 it may be easier if you remove the transfercase.
4. Remove crossmember bolts on transmission and frame and slide back out of the way or remove completely
5. Remove the 4 bolts holding the trans to the bellhousing and slide back to disengage the input shaft from the pilot bearing/bushing and clutch disc
6. Remove the 6 bolts holding the bellhousing to the engine
7. Remove the 6 bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel and you are DONE

Install is reverse of steps

I agree with leegrady, replace everything while you have it apart and don't forget to replace the pilot bearing/bushing to. They are cheap I think mine was $11 but when they go bad REALLY bad things happen
removing those babies can be tough but worth it, in the past I have used both a grease gun and a dentpuller to remove them

Good luck with the repairs

[68 TT]

I had to change mine when I first got my 78 and was able to leave the tans and transfer case in the truck and just remove the engine with clutch & bell housing attached. They went back in pretty easily this way too.

My engine leaked badly out the rear main and was soaking the clutch so my engine needed cleaned up and re-sealed in addition to the clutch job so the new clutch would last.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Burlinator

...don't forget to replace the pilot bearing/bushing to. They are cheap I think mine was $11 but when they go bad REALLY bad things happen
removing those babies can be tough but worth it, in the past I have used both a grease gun and a dentpuller to remove them

Good luck with the repairs

I was able to thread a bolt into the pilot bushing on mine and use a slide hammer to yank it out. It was just the right size that a standard size bolt just threaded right into it. I think it was a 1/2" coarse thread bolt but it could have been 5/8" too.

Get the rollerized pilot bushing that came in the diesel square body trucks. It fits right into the small and big block cranks too. Mine was about $15 at autozone.

[leegrady]

Fyi: There is a special tool you can buy that is used to remove pilot bearings. It takes me about 45 seconds to remove the bearing or in some cases bushing with this tool.

But I for one want every single tool ever made... JUst bring a truck load to my house and dump it in my front lawn.

[bikes&bowties]

Another way for removing the pilot bearing/bushing that is cheaper and cleaner than any other method is wet newspaper. Just tear it up really small and get a socket that fits snuggly to slowly press more and more wet paper in. as the pressure builds it'll pop out. then just use a pick or screwdriver and pull the paper out (it falls right out). Clean and simple. Took me about 1 minute yesterday

[kwlskid]

Thanks all for your input, I will take it all into consideration.

I had seen the trans. referred to as SM465 or CH465. One of the best sounding descriptions mad me think mine was a CH. Who knows ......... one of the descriptions also said that there were different gears setups put into these transmissions. Does this sound right to you guys?

At this time I don't have a garage and not all of my tools are easily accessible so I'm afraid to say I'll probably not be removing the bell housing and replacing all the other parts. Although normally I would, it just makes sense.

Some specifics I was hoping might be answered but have yet to be are:
1.Should I remove the fan off the front of the engine so it doesn't get damaged, or damage the plastic shroud behind the radiator?
2.If I remove the tension pin that appears to hold the shifter in the trans. will the stick come right out? and if so do I need to worry about anything in there moving around that might prevent the stick from going right back in?

Thanks Guys!

[leegrady]

Yes, you'll want to support the engine so that there is no interference anywhere. Specifically, the fan to shroud, and your distributor to firewall. I usually support the engine with a bottle jack and some wood block to the sump of the oil pan. Or an engine hoist, or a 4x4 across the engine compartment and some chain.

The bell housing is no problem to remove.

Yes, the shifter will just come right out. The attachment is spring loaded, and I use a big straight shot pry bar or big screw driver to depress the coupler, and remove the snap ring that holds the shifter with a smaller screwdriver to your top loader. Upon instillation if you run into trouble make sure all the shift rods are bunched together. That would be neutral. Inspect the ball at the end of the stick shift for ware and or damage.

Do yourself a favor and buy a complete clutch.

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81 GMC K2500 350/sm465/dana 60/corp 14 bolt