rough country dual steering stabilizer problem.

[dbmx66]

okay so, for the 73-87 trucks i mounted the main bracket right next to the diff like its says in the instructions. then extended both shocks 4.5 inches out and thats where you put the little brackets with the little u bolts. passenger side was fine, but drivers side didnt work right. with the shock extended 4.5 inches it brought me right to the big hex part of the bar and the tie rod nut (which wont work). i cant move the main bracket over because its already against the diff. if i move it to the drivers side more then it puts the end of the shock right in between the big nut for the tierod and the hole in the bar for the stock stabilizer... theres not enough room there. where do i put the bracket? and how do i mount it? the only way i can put the bracket on is right beside the hex at the end of the bar and when i do that the shock bottoms out before i can turn right all the way. and if i put it in the hole for the stock stabilizer it maxes the shock out before i turn left all the way.

please help me, i know alot of you have dual stabilizers tell me what you did, pictures would be nice as well. thanks

[special-K]

I think I need a picture. I'm not sure what the hex your saying (lol?)

[vectorit]

Here are the set ups I have.
The single is on my burb, and the dual is on my '70 K10 pick up.

[splehigh]

Mine is mounted like this with the large bracket near the differential and each shock pointing towards a wheel.

[USNavyTexan]

Does this help with death wobble? I did an ls swap and replaced the shocks with Rancho 9000xls. I've tried adjusting between 5-9 but with no luck. This all started after the swap. Any help appreciated.

[burnin oil]

Steering stabilizers have no effect on death wobble, they control bump steer. If there is truly death wobble I would redo the wheel bearings ad that is the most likely cause. If that isn't the problem I would check the tierods, ball joints and leaf spring bushings and hangers. These parts can cause loose steering but generally not death wobble. While repacking the wheel bearings also check the axle shaft u joints. I have seen those freeze up but the drive characteristic was a quick dart in one direction regardless of steering input.

[LONGHAIR]

Originally Posted by USNavyTexan

Does this help with death wobble? I did an ls swap and replaced the shocks with Rancho 9000xls. I've tried adjusting between 5-9 but with no luck. This all started after the swap. Any help appreciated.

Assuming that everything is properly maintained (wheel bearings, tie-rod ends)
death wobble is usually a caster issue, especially with lift springs. Many of them have wedges that tilt the pinion upward to help with the driveline angle, but this is goes against proper steering geometry.

Although there will undoubtedly be some push-back on this statement, "There is no such thing as bumpsteer in a straight axle, single tie-rod vehicle". Hitting something, like a rock or root while off-roading, with a front wheel, even if it affects the steering, is not bumpsteer. When this occurs, the steering wheel is forced from your hands, because it is all solidly connected.
Bump steer occurs when the suspension travel of the wheels causes the geometry to change. The relationship of one wheel to the other or to the steering wheel itself, is changed by the vertical travel. Most of the time it is a "toe" change and the vehicle decides to follow the wheel that has the greatest load. If this changes unexpectedly, bad things can happen. Caster and camber changes during suspension travel can be quite dramatic too. This all has a dynamic effect that changes while you are moving and can be quite unsettling, even dangerous.
Obviously, this cannot happen with a solid axle/single tie-rod. The wheels are locked to each other and cannot change.
That crazy "inverted Y" set-up under that era of Ford trucks did this regularly. As the suspension compressed, the toe would go out, and return on rebound. In a straight line, like hitting a speedbump, the effect has minimal effect. At higher speed or while turning it matters more, but pickup trucks are not known for their handling, especially these old ones.

The easiest way to see this for yourself is by watching drag racing. The classes below the "pro" level, generally have fairly stock front suspension, (A arms and coils) If you watch the ones who are fast enough to wheelie on the launch, you will see the wheels do the crazy wobble when they compress. It is especially visible in slo-mo video. The driver is holding the steering wheel straight, the wheels are moving around based on the amount of bumpsteer that the particular set-up has built into it. There isn't much that can be done about it.
Later model cars, with McPherson Strut style front ends, don't do it as much because the suspension travel is more linear, the toe can still change, but it is not as dramatic looking.

Ok, flame on

[burnin oil]

No flame from me and I think you did a good touch on the lift springs. Usually what is considered bump steer on these trucks is not having enough dampening effect when one tire hits a pot hole. The effect is just the nature of the beast. Personally I love a straight axle on leafs. They act the same every time so of you pay attention you know what's gonna happen, just like a detroit locker.

[BASE]

Front driveline geometry is a compromise on these trucks for sure. Short of cutting the knuckles off and rewelding them, you just have to live with some of that on larger lifts.

I've always considered "bump steering" to be the change in geometry of the steering components as the suspension moves. In the context of a straight axle that would be the shortened distance between the steering arm and pitman arm as the axle moves up, causing a corresponding unwanted input in steering. Toe won't change, but the steering angle sure does. The short drag link on a K series can be pretty bad, especially on large lifts, hence the crossover steering conversions.