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Old 12-31-2002, 04:06 PM   #1
chaptr2
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72 Blazer camber adjustment?

I was looking at the front of my blazer and noticed that the bottom part of the tire on the passenger side was pointing out. Is there a way to fix this? Does this mean I need an alignment or do I need to replaced my ball joints and if so is there a spacific type of ball joint that I would need?

I need help, but would like it from people who have had experiance in this area, not just an opinion on it.

Thanks for the help.

Chaptr2
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Last edited by chaptr2; 01-02-2003 at 11:09 AM.
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Old 12-31-2002, 06:15 PM   #2
Tuffold72
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Either your ball joints are really shot, or the adjusting sleeve the the ball stud fits into is turned out of whack. When you by a new ball joint there is a little sleave with threads on the outside of it. This piece twists into the housing ends. Its hole is offset so turning it one way or the other adjusts the camber. But this is also just my opinion. personaly I dont like to mess with critical parts like this and will bone up for the pros to fix/align it. They have really cool tools for this.
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Old 12-31-2002, 09:40 PM   #3
JIMs70GMC
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2 things to check: Ball joints and wheel bearings. I just replaced the ball joints on my 70 no problems real straight forward, You'll need to buy a special socket to remove a threaded sleeve for the upper ball joint and rent in my opinion a ball joint press, rented mine from auto zone(it's free but you have to leave a deposit) took less than a morning. Since the hub and spindle will be removed replace your front bearings and seal at the same time. I'm not sure about an adjustment for camber. The top sleeve has to be torqued down prior to installing the lower ball joint nut and lastly the upper ball joint nut.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs
1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX
1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears
1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now.....
1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone.
1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed.

1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm
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Old 01-02-2003, 04:44 PM   #4
chaptr2
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Can I take the tire off and adjust the ball joint for camber or do i have to take the whole hub off?

So I guess the question is, Can I adjust the ball joints for camber or do they need to be replaced. Has anyone adjusted camber on a 4 wheel drive before?


Jim, I have already replaced all the bearings and seals and I know they are in good shape. If for some reason they are bad, then I have a spare set in the glove box along with a seal. So there is a special tool for ball joints I need besides a press?
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Old 01-02-2003, 08:10 PM   #5
JIMs70GMC
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It's a socket about as big as a 7/8 with 4 evenly spaced prongs sticking off the end that fit into 4 slots on the threaded sleeve. You can not adjust the camber. You probably have a bad ball joint. Though I knew a guy with a 65 ford 4x4 that had a bent spindle that caused his front driver side tire to stick out at the bottom.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs
1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX
1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears
1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now.....
1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone.
1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed.

1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm
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Old 01-02-2003, 10:11 PM   #6
chaptr2
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That is all possible Jim. I could have a bad ball joint or a bent spindle. I would bet on the ball jointbeing bad. I do have the same tool you're talking about.

Thanks Jim you have been helpful!

Chaptr2
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Old 01-03-2003, 02:23 AM   #7
DaHateTank
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Exclamation

I believe they adjust camber, on straight axle front ends, by shimming the spindle.

Its not really worth it, IMO. (Ive gotten 40K miles from Swampers, w/o doing it) If your tire sticks out, at the bottom, and you're killling tires, then something is wrong -- either a bad ball joint, or a bent axle housing, spindle, etc...

Have fun getting the spindle off, if they've haven't been off before.

-M
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Old 01-04-2003, 09:56 PM   #8
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Thanks Guys for all your opinions. I would think my blazer doesn't have a bent axle tube since it has only 100,000 miles on it, plus hasn't seen any real off roading.

This seems to me like a bad ball joint problem to me. I will dig in and find out the problem next weekend.
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Old 01-05-2003, 04:10 PM   #9
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Lightbulb

Jack the front end up from under the springs and wiggle the tire both up and down and side to side and have someone look under the vehicle for any movement in any of the suspension parts and replace as needed then take it and have an alignment done on it or just better yet you could take it to have the front end checked where they do alignments done but a thing to remember is that positive caster and negative camber will make the vehicle pull the opposite way, for instance if you have negative camber or positive caster on the right tire it will want to pull to the left depending on how far out the measurements are out of specs. hope that story will help in any way
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Old 01-06-2003, 01:17 AM   #10
1976K5CHALET
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There are two ways to adjust camber on the dana 44's-10bolts.

1)Moog makes degree'd shims that go in between the spindle and the knuckle.

2) The pre load section of the upper balljoint that requires a special socket to torque to 50Lbs......you can buy them as an ecentric in various degree's....i believe i still have a 1/2-3/4-1 egree units.

Azblazer
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Old 01-06-2003, 11:47 AM   #11
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Thanks guys for all the info. I hate to say this because I like to do all my work, but I am taking it in to be inspected by some professionals. My father had to sit and convince me just to take it in and get it inspected before I tear it down. I finally gave in and am calling for an appointment. So when it comes time to change the ball joints I be back here for the tips and tricks of a 4x4 ball joint change.
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Old 01-07-2003, 10:50 PM   #12
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I dont know about WA , but in PA if you have a bad ball joint it wont pass inspection. If your doing ball joints, check the axle u-joint while you have it apart.
Randy
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Old 01-08-2003, 12:56 AM   #13
DaHateTank
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Thumbs up

Id definitely CHANGE the axle U joint, while its apart.

Too much of a PITA not to...

-Marty
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Old 01-08-2003, 02:41 PM   #14
chaptr2
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We don't have to have our ball joints inspected to sell a vehicle.

Thanks for the tip on axle joints. I thought about changing them when I get that far in. The joints are the original so it is time for them too.
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70 GMC Short box stepside Blown 388 Stroker
72 K/5 Blazer 350/SM465/205
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