Big Bird - 1972 Longhorn K30

[BlueBullet]

My plan is eventually make it into a dump truck. A few things I have left out on the front conversion is the radiator mount holes line up on a '72 frame. It is a tight fit. I drilled holes out to 7/16 then put ALL the bolts in then tighten it up. If you don't do so the bolt holes don't line up exact. I also went back and looked on the first page and noticed I wasn't very clear on how I drilled the rear holes for the rear hangers of the front springs. I cut out the same location on my donor frame. Then lined the holes for the cab mount and drilled out the 1 7/8 hole for bushing block. Hopefully that makes sense. I will add a few more close up pictures to show what holes I welded up. I welded up the holes before I got far enough in 7dee2's thread and noticed I welded the hole that can be used to put the brake lines through. I will post the route I am going to go now.

[sweetk30]

you MUST get longer grd 8 bolts for the dana 60 spring mount .

you will have to probably cut a few threads off to make them perfect . you want tight but not bottom out .

and nice to see you got NEW u-bolts .

[BlueBullet]

For the bolts that go into the Dana 60 housing I was going to get bolts that are 3/4” longer. With top plate snug that is the gap measurement with a caliper. A little more info I discovered in my research is a standard K20 came with two leafs in front. If your SPID says heavy duty front spring there should be three leaves. Some may already know that but something new I discovered looking between a few different K20’s I have. Also picked up the right ubolts for the rear and new bottom plates.

[Vintage Windmills]

Neat project Nathan. I also fight the antifreeze draining like you mentioned. Maybe I missed it, what are your engine and trans plans?

I came to the same conclusion on the 2 vs 3 leaf front ends on the k20’s

[BlueBullet]

For engine, trans, and transfer case I am going to run the setup out of the K30. 350, TH400 and NP205. Going with the hydro boost and steering box also. Going to convert from TBI to carbureted. Wanted to keep stock look under the hood but with the power steering and hydro boost setup I don't think that is possible. If anybody knows a way to use stock power steering or similar mounting would love to know. I also plan to use the stock trans/transfer case cross member from the K30 and the hanger bearing mount from the Longhorn. Will go with the stock '72 four wheel drive engine cross member. The wheel base on the K30 is 135 so also hoping to use those driveshafts too. We will see how that pans out hopefully soon once paint dries. Been painting axles and miscellaneous pieces. Also cleaning up engine,trans, and transfer case for a quick painting. When the time comes what is the best way to figure out where the hole goes in high hump cover when final location is figured out. Also finding where the holes will be drilled in the frame for engine cross member once that location is figured out. I would assume measure from the topside and drill away just wondering if the is an easier way. High hump definitely has me stumped.

[BlueBullet]

In case anyone is wondering this is what I have used for paint on frame and differentials. If anything is going to put it to the test this project is it.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by BlueBullet

For engine, trans, and transfer case I am going to run the setup out of the K30. 350, TH400 and NP205. Going with the hydro boost and steering box also. Going to convert from TBI to carbureted. Wanted to keep stock look under the hood but with the power steering and hydro boost setup I don't think that is possible. If anybody knows a way to use stock power steering or similar mounting would love to know. I also plan to use the stock trans/transfer case cross member from the K30 and the hanger bearing mount from the Longhorn. Will go with the stock '72 four wheel drive engine cross member. The wheel base on the K30 is 135 so also hoping to use those driveshafts too. We will see how that pans out hopefully soon once paint dries. Been painting axles and miscellaneous pieces. Also cleaning up engine,trans, and transfer case for a quick painting. When the time comes what is the best way to figure out where the hole goes in high hump cover when final location is figured out. Also finding where the holes will be drilled in the frame for engine cross member once that location is figured out. I would assume measure from the topside and drill away just wondering if the is an easier way. High hump definitely has me stumped.

Your truck is really coming along, very nice! Check this page (pages) out from our build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...645614&page=15, pretty sure if you set your motor forward a little in roughly the stock Longhorn 2wd position. You'll clear everything just fine and get really, really close on the drivelines (trans linkage, etc.). Also if you ever decide to go with a big block later on you'll be ready to go for clearance. Since your running the earlier K-member also run the old short water pump setup (shroud and all), that way you can run period correct bracketry including the power steering pump.

Depends on the 205 shifter you are using but we found later that using the earlier shifter wanted the opening in the high hump a little forward from stock. Initially we set ours up with the later square body shifter in the stock location (T400 is longer than T350) and thought we had it. Found later while installing the carpet, boot and ring that it needed to be bumped forward a little. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...postcount=1028

Keep up the good work you are killing it!

[BlueBullet]

Thank you for the links. I must be blind looking and reading through your thread. I see now how you plumbed your hydro boost and we're able to use the stock brackets and pump. Cool because that's what I want to do keep stock appearance under the hood and I am going to use stock TC shifter. For hole drilling and cutting. Once you got location figured out how did you go about drilling holes for engine cross member since it is in between the frame rails. Please excuse me if I am missing it in your thread. Also how did you go about determining hole location in high hump. I see you started out with a auto high hump. Thanks again for your help.