Project 1966 K20 adventure rig

[350TacoZilla]

Good work so far on this thing. I would be tempted to rebuild and update the 327, one way to do it for decent cost would be buy a junkyard vortec with high miles for cheap and swap heads,fuel injection etc over onto freshened up 327 shortblock. I have nothing against a 350 but there is nothing wrong with a good running 327 either lol.

[72cs20]

Good suggestions, thanks. I've given lots of thought to the L31 or keeping the 327. But a tbi 350 with all the front accessories can be had relatively cheaply. Then again, keeping the 327 would be much less overall effort. A compression test came out well, so it seems to be healthy. There is still time to make a decision.

The goal through Sunday is to get the engine/trans out and finish stripping out the cab interior. And more wire wheeling, wire brushing, cleaning and painting. Not the most fun part of a project vehicle.

[350TacoZilla]

Yeah i just meant get a dirt cheap high mile 350 and swap the newer desirable parts and such onto the 327. I once wanted to update to the serpentine belt setup and couldn't find all the brackets\pulleys etc for less than $100 by themselves, looking through CL for awhile I got the idea to look for whole engine and grabbed a running but smoking bad 305 for $50 with everything still attached. Pulled parts I wanted and tossed the longblock into car headed to scrap.

In your shoes I would probably leave the 327 alone myself but if EFI is a feature you really want then you can usually land a complete vortec for less than cost of aftermarket intake\injection alone. Or even an old TBI 305\350 if not going for the vortec heads and more complicated fuel injection. Either way I cant wait to see this thing coming together, love seeing what people end up with after following the builds.

[72cs20]

Time for a quick update on the adventure rig progress.

I've spent the last 6 or so weeks working on the front half of the frame, the newer front axle and the inside of the cab. I spent way too much time on the frame but it did come out pretty nice.


A little rusty metal primer.


Some semi-gloss black.


1977 Dana 44 all ready to go. Cleaned and painted with all new bearings, seals, brakes and Warn hubs. Also had to replace the passenger side axle u-joint.


While getting these things done, my suspension parts came in. New leaf springs, shackle kits, u-bolts and top plates. Truck is finally a roller again.


I'm presently working on the section of frame under the cab and assessing cab condition. Got some rust issues.

Thanks for following.

[jdl71]

Looks great! Thanks for the update

[raylube]

What front springs and SHACKLES are you using ?

[72cs20]

The springs and shackles are stock type replacements. I got the shackle kits from LMC. They only list full shackle kits for the 60-63's, but I bought them anyway to see if they would work. They fit fine but with two differences. The shackles are an inch longer than the ones that came off. And they come with nylock nuts.

[raylube]

Originally Posted by 72cs20

The springs and shackles are stock type replacements. I got the shackle kits from LMC. They only list full shackle kits for the 60-63's, but I bought them anyway to see if they would work. They fit fine but with two differences. The shackles are an inch longer than the ones that came off. And they come with nylock nuts.

I ordered front shackles from LMC and there seems to be a lot of play between the bushing and threaded pin. Was that the case with yours or does the grease take up the slack ?

[72cs20]

Yeah, there was a little bit of movement. Nothing excessive though. The machining on these pins and bushings were never very close. Thanks for reminding me to grease them!

[350TacoZilla]

Man that thing is going to be beautiful when its back together! Nice work on the frame and front axle man. You ended up with a kinda rare D44 (I think 76-77 only) that in weird way also has super easy to get parts (since it uses the same hubs\bearings\seals etc as the later 78-91 10 bolts), I always liked the looks of the old big hub D44 8 lug stuff but the internal hubs and such are supposed to be stronger not to mention that there are tons of aftermarket hubs available even at local auto parts stores in a pinch.

[72cs20]

Thanks for inputs everyone. Been gathering parts and thinking things through about how to proceed.

But since the last post I've gotten a couple of things done. Brake and fuel plumbing is finished and the acquisition of an engine.

Fuel and rear brake lines along the right side frame rail and few pics of the 350 I had built for me. Just a basic stock type truck engine with an rv cam and Edelbrock intake. It will have tbi fuel system by Affordable Fuel Injection.
http://https://67-72chevytrucks.com/...1&d=1568823113

I hope to have the engine in place this weekend. Be back soon.

[raylube]

Nice work.I am in the process of swapping my axles and springs like yours.What did you end up doing with your e brake cables? Did you buy prebent brake lines or did you plumb them yourself? What's your plans for rear shocks and shock mounting tabs on the 14 bolt? Did you have to install pinion shims?

[72cs20]

Thanks. I had Control Cables Inc make new parking brake cables for me. I sent my old cables along with the brake drum end from the 14 bolt and they built new ones based on the examples.

All of the brake plumbing was made by me except for the piece along the rear axle. I bought that part from In-Line Tube. The brake hoses are from Off Road Design.

The rear shock set up will be factory style and new mounts will need to be made for the 14 bolt.

There are 4 degree shims under the springs.

[raylube]

Appreciate the info
Great truck you have there

[69CST4x4SWB]

Nice project... I'll be doin a ride along!

[72cs20]

Update. Got the engine pretty much buttoned up. I left the distributor out in order to pre-lube. Got the overdrive attached and then dropped the whole thing in.

Things are moving now.

[raylube]

Interesting overdrive. I always thought they went after the trans. Does that put your shifter in the seat?

[72cs20]

Originally Posted by raylube

Interesting overdrive. I always thought they went after the trans. Does that put your shifter in the seat?

Not quite. The trans shifter will come up 7.5 inches behind the factory location. Still within the hump cover.

[RDrancher]

Good info on this build. I'm in.

[raylube]

Thank you for answering my questions. I like what your doing and there's not to many of the 60 to 66 4wd drive info or builds. Are you going to use any type of bump stops? Is that capt fabs brake master plate? What master cyl ,booster , prop valve are you using?

[72cs20]

Originally Posted by raylube

Thank you for answering my questions. I like what your doing and there's not to many of the 60 to 66 4wd drive info or builds. Are you going to use any type of bump stops? Is that capt fabs brake master plate? What master cyl ,booster , prop valve are you using?

No problem, thanks for following.

I'll be doing new bump stops after the truck is loaded and sitting at it's final ride height.

Yes, that is Captfab's brake booster w/hydraulic clutch bracket.

The brake booster is an 11 inch unit for a 95 Chevy pickup. Master cylinder is one for a mid seventies Chevy pickup and the prop valve is after market from Right Stuff specialties.

Progress update for today is the installation of the sm465 transmission. I put this thing in by myself and it was a real wrestling match. I highly recommend a helper for this job. It bolts to the back of the overdrive just like it would to the bellhousing.


Then I did some shifter mockup just to get idea of how they would look. The tranny shifter is one that can be shortened and bent as needed. Also, this sm465 trans is a very late model version with very short throw, which is nice.

[raylube]

I hear you about the wrestling match when I removed sm420 on my 63 2wd it would fall off the jack. Going back in i used my cherry picker thru the top it was super easy but I didnt have to fight the added length of the od unit.i would not bend the trans shifter until you add the transfer case shifter. By the way what are going to do there as far as I know the divorced t221 are all on the drivers side.

[72cs20]

There is no more T-221. I'm using a married NP-205 with a twin stick cable shifter setup.

[69CST4x4SWB]

Originally Posted by 72cs20

No problem, thanks for following.

I'll be doing new bump stops after the truck is loaded and sitting at it's final ride height.

Yes, that is Captfab's brake booster w/hydraulic clutch bracket.

The brake booster is an 11 inch unit for a 95 Chevy pickup. Master cylinder is one for a mid seventies Chevy pickup and the prop valve is after market from Right Stuff specialties.

Progress update for today is the installation of the sm465 transmission. I put this thing in by myself and it was a real wrestling match. I highly recommend a helper for this job. It bolts to the back of the overdrive just like it would to the bellhousing.
Attachment 1943634

Then I did some shifter mockup just to get idea of how they would look. The tranny shifter is one that can be shortened and bent as needed. Also, this sm465 trans is a very late model version with very short throw, which is nice.
Attachment 1943635
Attachment 1943636
Attachment 1943637

Looks like a nice fit!

[72cs20]

Quick update today.

Got the t-case to trans adapter and the main cross-member fitted up this week. There is also a secondary cross-member that mounts to the rear of this one which then a t-case skid plate bolts on between the two. This cross-member set-up came out of a 74 K10.



The NP-205 got a coat of paint also while waiting for the twin stick shifter kit to arrive. Part of the shifter kit involves changing out the shift rails in order to realize all of the functions of twin sticks. The rails arrive next week.