Body Panel Adhesive - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

bluec10 · 05-12-2002, 02:03 PM

I went to an autobody supply store on Saturday and got great service from one of the "experienced" guys behind the counter. He showed me a body panel adhesive system that would eliminate the need for welding. I'm excited about it because I don't have a welder or the cash to get one. A friend om mine used it on the doors of his '69 Charger and it worked great. Does anyone know about this adhesive stuff? Is it a good option? Any tips?

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Dream: '68 C-10 Custom with a 396 and a 700R4
Current Reality: '68 C-10, 250, 3 speed, parts in two garages, but lots of hope.

tom hand · 05-12-2002, 02:07 PM

The factory has been using that stuff on hoods for years. I have seen many of those hoods come apart. If you weld it right it is there forever.

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72 GMC Sierra SWB almost finished---- 84 Softail
Olive Branch MS

Brian19692 · 05-12-2002, 03:17 PM

I've used alot of it in body shops and I like it. I'd use it in my truck. I've used 3M mostly and never had a problem with it.

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69 short box 4x4
69 long box w/72 grill
69 Camaro 327 4-speed
71 4x4 suburban, soon to be crew cab short box
87 S-10 V-8 FOR SALE
Des Moines, Iowa

chucks70 · 05-12-2002, 06:39 PM

Had a body shop use it on my 91 voyager pass. door about 2 years ago... The skin was loose from the frame and it dropped. The adhesive just let loose last month. Going to weld this time.

69 longhorn · 05-12-2002, 06:58 PM

I guess that Im from the "old school".......I think that steel should be welded!I look at it like this,if the spoodge lets go 2yrs down the road,for what it will cost in repairs& paint........you could buy that welder,& will still have it for future toys.........69

bluec10 · 05-12-2002, 08:22 PM

The guy in the body shop suggested using ss screws around the flange when the adhesive was drying, then grinding off the screw heads. Wouldn't the adhesive be more rust-resistant in that it won't let water into the joint?

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Dream: '68 C-10 Custom with a 396 and a 700R4
Current Reality: '68 C-10, 250, 3 speed, parts in two garages, but lots of hope.

wild@work · 05-13-2002, 09:09 AM

I used this to fill the hole that the previous owner had cut to install a pop up vent in the roof...friggin idiot...anyway, this was recommended by 2 differnt body shops that I frequent. I was taking body shop classes at the local community collage at the time, so I did it myself. 1 of the bodyshops borrowed me the gun to use and I bought the 2 part epoxy. It was way cool! I crimped the border of the hole all the way around so that the new piece sat flush with the rest of the roof, Then I predrilled holes all the way around, applied the product, set it in place and ran sheet metal screws in. I let it dry for 24-48 hours and them ground the screw heads down. Thin layer of fiberglass, sanded and primed, can't hardly tell that there was a 13x13" hole there! I did a lot of research prior to doing this, it actually held up better in crash tests that a standard weld-If porperly applied. I would get professional assistance and/or know what you are doing before tackling it yourself.

Wild

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a.k.a. wild4wheels
'02 Subaru 2.5ts wagon
'67 Panel
'94 Nissan Altima-FS $2500
'88 Isuzu P/U-FS Long Bed-Needs Motor work-$400.
'79 Bonneville-FS w/15" Pontiac Rally II's-$200.
Parting Out:
'72 Burb
'85 BMW 528e
Want to Buy:
Used Car Trailer-Reasonable-in the Midwest
67-72 1 Ton Dually-Reasonable-in the Midwest
BURB QUARTER PANELS!

05-12-2002, 02:03 PM	#1
bluec10 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Manitoba, Canada Posts: 663	Body Panel Adhesive I went to an autobody supply store on Saturday and got great service from one of the "experienced" guys behind the counter. He showed me a body panel adhesive system that would eliminate the need for welding. I'm excited about it because I don't have a welder or the cash to get one. A friend om mine used it on the doors of his '69 Charger and it worked great. Does anyone know about this adhesive stuff? Is it a good option? Any tips? ------------------ Dream: '68 C-10 Custom with a 396 and a 700R4 Current Reality: '68 C-10, 250, 3 speed, parts in two garages, but lots of hope. __________________ Present: 2015 Tacoma. Yeah, not a GM, but I love it. 1969 GMC 32,000 - fix, drive, relax, fix... 2019 BMW R1250 GSA - Yahoooooooo 1979 Honda GL 1000 - retro touring at its best. Past: '05 Sierra 4x4 - Had 270,000 KM and running well when it was written-off by a stop sign runner. '94 F-150 from the "F word" company. I'll admit it...good truck. Sold what was left of it for $800 to a guy who came to pick it up at 11:00 PM with cash in hand. Hmm. '79 Sierra Grande (Black) organ donor - perfect rebuildable 4-bolt 350 and a good TH350. '76 Sierra Grande (Orange) - hate isn't too strong a word. Kid who bought it turned it into a hot rod. '68 C-10 R.I.P. - Dad's old truck...too far gone to resurrect. '59 C-50 - with hoist. Truck is gone, wife isn't. Nuff said.

05-12-2002, 02:07 PM	#2
tom hand CCRider Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Olive Branch,MS,USA Posts: 2,232	The factory has been using that stuff on hoods for years. I have seen many of those hoods come apart. If you weld it right it is there forever. ------------------ 72 GMC Sierra SWB almost finished---- 84 Softail Olive Branch MS __________________ 72 GMC Sierra SWB almost finished---- 84 Softail Olive Branch MS

05-12-2002, 03:17 PM	#3
Brian19692 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Des Moines, IA. Posts: 188	I've used alot of it in body shops and I like it. I'd use it in my truck. I've used 3M mostly and never had a problem with it. ------------------ 69 short box 4x4 69 long box w/72 grill 69 Camaro 327 4-speed 71 4x4 suburban, soon to be crew cab short box 87 S-10 V-8 FOR SALE Des Moines, Iowa __________________ 67 short 2wd. FOR SALE 69 long box w/72 grill 69 Camaro 327 4-speed Des Moines, Iowa

05-12-2002, 06:39 PM	#4
chucks70 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Cadiz, OH Posts: 628	Had a body shop use it on my 91 voyager pass. door about 2 years ago... The skin was loose from the frame and it dropped. The adhesive just let loose last month. Going to weld this time. __________________ 68 1 ton dually 292, 2001 Sebring, 2004 Trailblazer, 11 Camaro Convertible.

05-12-2002, 06:58 PM	#5
69 longhorn Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: rock island,il,usa Posts: 5,382	I guess that Im from the "old school".......I think that steel should be welded!I look at it like this,if the spoodge lets go 2yrs down the road,for what it will cost in repairs& paint........you could buy that welder,& will still have it for future toys.........69 __________________ http://community.webshots.com/user/hotrodhorn

05-12-2002, 08:22 PM	#6
bluec10 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Manitoba, Canada Posts: 663	The guy in the body shop suggested using ss screws around the flange when the adhesive was drying, then grinding off the screw heads. Wouldn't the adhesive be more rust-resistant in that it won't let water into the joint? ------------------ Dream: '68 C-10 Custom with a 396 and a 700R4 Current Reality: '68 C-10, 250, 3 speed, parts in two garages, but lots of hope. __________________ Present: 2015 Tacoma. Yeah, not a GM, but I love it. 1969 GMC 32,000 - fix, drive, relax, fix... 2019 BMW R1250 GSA - Yahoooooooo 1979 Honda GL 1000 - retro touring at its best. Past: '05 Sierra 4x4 - Had 270,000 KM and running well when it was written-off by a stop sign runner. '94 F-150 from the "F word" company. I'll admit it...good truck. Sold what was left of it for $800 to a guy who came to pick it up at 11:00 PM with cash in hand. Hmm. '79 Sierra Grande (Black) organ donor - perfect rebuildable 4-bolt 350 and a good TH350. '76 Sierra Grande (Orange) - hate isn't too strong a word. Kid who bought it turned it into a hot rod. '68 C-10 R.I.P. - Dad's old truck...too far gone to resurrect. '59 C-50 - with hoist. Truck is gone, wife isn't. Nuff said.

05-13-2002, 09:09 AM	#7
wild@work Registered User Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Lexington, KY Posts: 220	I used this to fill the hole that the previous owner had cut to install a pop up vent in the roof...friggin idiot...anyway, this was recommended by 2 differnt body shops that I frequent. I was taking body shop classes at the local community collage at the time, so I did it myself. 1 of the bodyshops borrowed me the gun to use and I bought the 2 part epoxy. It was way cool! I crimped the border of the hole all the way around so that the new piece sat flush with the rest of the roof, Then I predrilled holes all the way around, applied the product, set it in place and ran sheet metal screws in. I let it dry for 24-48 hours and them ground the screw heads down. Thin layer of fiberglass, sanded and primed, can't hardly tell that there was a 13x13" hole there! I did a lot of research prior to doing this, it actually held up better in crash tests that a standard weld-If porperly applied. I would get professional assistance and/or know what you are doing before tackling it yourself. Wild ------------------ a.k.a. wild4wheels '02 Subaru 2.5ts wagon '67 Panel '94 Nissan Altima-FS $2500 '88 Isuzu P/U-FS Long Bed-Needs Motor work-$400. '79 Bonneville-FS w/15" Pontiac Rally II's-$200. Parting Out: '72 Burb '85 BMW 528e Want to Buy: Used Car Trailer-Reasonable-in the Midwest 67-72 1 Ton Dually-Reasonable-in the Midwest BURB QUARTER PANELS! __________________ a.k.a. wild4wheels '02 Subaru 2.5ts wagon '67 Chevy C-10 Panel Want to Buy: -Used Car Trailer-Reasonable-in the Midwest -67-72 1 Ton Dually-Reasonable-in the Midwest -BURB QUARTER PANELS!



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