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Old 01-17-2021, 10:08 PM   #1
dmjlambert
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Re: Carb to Fuel Pump Hard Line [Leak at Fuel Pump]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich72C10 View Post
...I bought a hard line from Summit Racing, actually this is my second one and the best I can get it is perhaps 2~3 drops a second of leakage. I tried the lapping method for over 30 minutes, never got it better than the 2~3 drops a second. Both of the lines I got from Summit Racing acted the same way.
Does this remain the problem? You have a hard line you would like to use and you attach the hard line and snug it up and it leaks? This is my solution, no more leaks. Copper flare gaskets. I'll never install another hard line at the pump, nor re-attach the hard line to the carburetor after changing the filter, without using one. Easy, cheap, pain free. https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=762179

Last edited by dmjlambert; 01-17-2021 at 11:37 PM. Reason: clarity
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Old 01-18-2021, 12:37 AM   #2
Rich72C10
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Talking Re: Carb to Fuel Pump Hard Line [Leak at Fuel Pump]

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmjlambert View Post
Does this remain the problem? You have a hard line you would like to use and you attach the hard line and snug it up and it leaks? This is my solution, no more leaks. Copper flare gaskets. I'll never install another hard line at the pump, nor re-attach the hard line to the carburetor after changing the filter, without using one. Easy, cheap, pain free. https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=762179
It looks like you got these from Grainger PARKER Flare Gasket, Flare Connection Type, 3/8 in Tube Size.

Could you explain how you used them? This sounds like a pretty good idea to me.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Steeveedee View Post
Those are meant for single flare lines, just so you know. But they will conform to the double flare fitting, so it's all good. We used those to seal up single flare fittings on spacecraft fuel systems, which have to not leak for the lifetime of the thing, which might be 30 years or so, like the Hubble (which I did not work on); just pointing out an old system that is still working. If you break the fuel lines open, you should either use new conical washers or anneal the ones you removed in the oven, provided they are not dented. If dented, just toss them. Do know, however, that many millions of vehicles rolled off the assembly without washers in the fittings.
And this single flare washer to the double flare is no issue at all?

Edit
Found this interesting fellow talk about "How to make a flare fitting copper washer to seal a seeping fuel line" on YouTube. I think I get how to use the ones from Grander now...
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'72 Chevy C10 Cheyenne *Super WHT/MED BRONZE/WHT
SBC 350 | TH350 | LWB | AC | Buddy Seats
Upgrades: Tilt | Front Sway Bar | Radio | Sliding Window | Bed Spare w/Lock
Bed Rails | Full LEDs | Courtesy Lights | Tachometer | Glovebox Lock & Light | Head Light Relays | *Upgraded Fully Super Trim

Last edited by Rich72C10; 01-18-2021 at 01:29 AM.
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