5.3 4L60 swap into a 1962 c10 first drive...

[suburban99]

Originally Posted by faribran

Any updates? Just curious.

Drove to work this AM 22KM (13.75 miles) and no issues. Lots of snap. Got a little sideways once...

[suburban99]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Still sounds like a fuel issue....maybe injectors? Filter? Regulator?pump?maybe..

Sounds like a fuel issue to me as well. I can easily hear pump running (loud).
Bought a new gauge and will test pressure again....this gauge mounts permanently to the -04AN fuel pressure port. The other one was a Harbor Freight one I used on my diesel trucks...

Fuel regulator has no fuel coming from the vacuum line when running with vacuum line disconnected..we will see...

[suburban99]

Put a new gauge on it tonight. 47PSI at idle at the rail. Used a #4 JIC x 1/4 NPT connector and a 1/4" street 90...We will see on next drive, hopefully tomorrow.
As soon as it starts to hesitate i will pull over and check the pressure...a remote gauge will be coming now that I have the place to hook it up.

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by suburban99

As soon as it starts to hesitate i will pull over and check the pressure...a remote gauge will be coming now that I have the place to hook it up.

You won't be able to do this. You will need a remote guage and be able to look at it while driving. Stopping when it acts up usually makes it go back to normal so you wont see anything.

[suburban99]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

You won't be able to do this. You will need a remote guage and be able to look at it while driving. Stopping when it acts up usually makes it go back to normal so you wont see anything.

Ok, I will get a remote gauge...now that I have a place to attach it. Does 47 PSI at idle seem low?

[XwalkerX]

yeah im right around 56 at idle

[roundhouse]

use a remote gauge, or a flex hose and duct tape it to the windshield so you can see it while youre driving, but its not inside the cab.

also, try driving it with the O2 sensors unplugged, so it will stay in open loop,

it will throw a code but give it a try,

I have a 91 Mustang EFI in my 73 Bronco, and I somehow got the O2 sensors cross wired. and it would do exactly what youre describing.
I drove it with them unplugged for months because It never occured to me that they were crossed.
and it drove fine with them unplugged and staying in open loop

I had the left o2 wire plugged into the right side sensor and the right side plugged into the left sensor.

and that makes the computer go crazy trying to keep adding more and more fuel and then less and less fuel
in a normal vehicle this is not possible since the wires wont reach, however in a transplant it is easy to do.

[69short]

Are you using a stock tank? Or one with baffles? Does it only happen when you have less than half a tank or so? Maybe when you get on it the fuel is moving around and starving your pump (if you aren't baffled)

[suburban99]

Originally Posted by roundhouse

use a remote gauge, or a flex hose and duct tape it to the windshield so you can see it while youre driving, but its not inside the cab.

also, try driving it with the O2 sensors unplugged, so it will stay in open loop,

it will throw a code but give it a try,

I have a 91 Mustang EFI in my 73 Bronco, and I somehow got the O2 sensors cross wired. and it would do exactly what youre describing.
I drove it with them unplugged for months because It never occured to me that they were crossed.
and it drove fine with them unplugged and staying in open loop

I had the left o2 wire plugged into the right side sensor and the right side plugged into the left sensor.

and that makes the computer go crazy trying to keep adding more and more fuel and then less and less fuel
in a normal vehicle this is not possible since the wires wont reach, however in a transplant it is easy to do.

Yeah that would be easy to do... since I repinned my own harness...but I had a bank 1 Sensor 1 error...changed that O2 sensor and code went away.

[suburban99]

Ok back at home...a couple of things I checked today.
-Fuel line is 3/8" suction to the pump on frame rail then adapted to the stock line right after the edelbrock filter...
-Return line is 5/16" to bung on top of stock tank.
-Fuel pressure is 47 psi until I punch it then it goes to 58 psi and if I keep my foot in it it drops to 24 or so then comes back up...
I have the fuel gauge zip tied to the wiper arm as some have suggested and will drive it tomorrow to see what else I can glean...

[ls1nova71]

I have a feeling your pump isnt pulling fuel as quickly as it needs to be. 24 is way too low.

[XwalkerX]

yeah man new pump asap!

[suburban99]

Ok I am convinced the pressure is the problem. Thanks for the help!
Now the question is do a change from in cab to a rear tank while I am at it? My better half hates the smell of fuel...and although I do not smell any in the cab it is only a matter of time. Removing the stock tank would allow me to install a seat from a 99 or so silverado that has shoulder straps...(another of her peeves)..

[mongocanfly]

Ha..better keep momma happy.. sounds like the perfect time to move the tank and pump. I don't like the thought of having all that gas behind me either.

[faribran]

Sounds like you have narrowed it down to the fuel pump. I know you are excited to make the changes and test again.
Will be watching.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by suburban99

Ok I am convinced the pressure is the problem. Thanks for the help!
Now the question is do a change from in cab to a rear tank while I am at it? My better half hates the smell of fuel...and although I do not smell any in the cab it is only a matter of time. Removing the stock tank would allow me to install a seat from a 99 or so silverado that has shoulder straps...(another of her peeves)..

yes

[suburban99]

Bought a 15.5 Gallon fuel cell from the auction site and will be installing with the Existing Wabro to see what happens. If it does not work I will go with an in tank pump. When I was driving it yesterday, the pressure went to 10 psi...I didn't plumb the return line to the bottom of the tank but just added a bung on the existing tank. I think as I drive the fuel get air bubbles from the return as it is not below the fuel. That and I an using the stock fuel connection to the pump which means the fuel has to travel up 24 or so inches...also bought a -6AN fuel line kit.
Trying to keep costs down with the Canadian dollar worth .75 USD...

[et cetera]

I just purchased a 62' and I'm looking to do the same swap. I've been finding it difficult to get parts for swapping the 60-62 models.

Do you have a parts list and a rundown of any gotchas to installing? I just want to make sure I have everything I need before jumping in. Thanks.

[suburban99]

Originally Posted by et cetera

I just purchased a 62' and I'm looking to do the same swap. I've been finding it difficult to get parts for swapping the 60-62 models.

Do you have a parts list and a rundown of any gotchas to installing? I just want to make sure I have everything I need before jumping in. Thanks.

I don't have a list but the thing I had trouble with was where to place the motor in the frame (front to back). Mine has a 78 disc brake front end and I drilled the holes for my mounts after I decided where the engine/tranny would work best. The exhaust is a challenge with 62 frame as it is not the ladder style frame that the newer ones had. The manifolds on mine are less than 1/4" from the frame rails, frame is not notched. I repinned my own harness using info from LT 1 swap.com...2010 Camaro exhaust manifolds work.

I bought the whole truck and removed engine and tranny and sold the leftovers. I would do it again the same way. Lots of help on here from others as well..

[72MARIO]

Originally Posted by suburban99

Trying to keep costs down with the Canadian dollar worth .75 USD...

I hear ya

The ECE stainless 27 gallons fuel injection pump ready tank looks great but at nearly $1000 US its hardly a option.


I am doing my swap the same as you as far as getting a parts truck and selling off the left over parts to cover the purchase price. It was also a great was to learn how these trucks were put together wiring fuel etc,

[suburban99]

Originally Posted by 72MARIO

I hear ya

The ECE stainless 27 gallons fuel injection pump ready tank looks great but at nearly $1000 US its hardly a option.


I am doing my swap the same as you as far as getting a parts truck and selling off the left over parts to cover the purchase price. It was also a great was to learn how these trucks were put together wiring fuel etc,

I work in the USA almost every week (in Albuquerque right now) and always bring parts back Way cheaper down here even with the exchange rate...the tank i bought on the auction site is 15.5 gallons but only 19.75" (L) x 18" (W) x 8-3/4" (H)...under $200USD with the -6AN hose kit....free shipping to the border.

[suburban99]

An update:
15 gallon fuel cell installed in back of truck. Existing Walbro relocated to rear of truck on left side frame rail. Filter clean when removed, pump was clean as well. Pressure now is around 60PSI and truck has awesome power. Pump is now very quiet. The fuel tank can't be seen hanging down in the rear, looks great. The kids were bugging me to race tonight at the local drag strip street legals