1950 Build

[russ3825]

I purchased this 1950 Five window last week and can't wait to get started. The Build threads and posts have already been a big help. I will post pictures and comments on my progress, below is a list of what I already have planned and purchased. Any tips, tricks, or advice is appreciated. Thanks for taking a look.

Speedway MII IFS with drop spindles
TCI rear leaf kit
383 SBC
Muncie 4 Speed
99 Blazer 4x4 rear end with 3:73 (Not the ZR2)

Next will be AR Torque Thrust II's 18x8" with 245/45's all the way around. Does anyone see any issues with this set up? I can go up or down in tire size if needed.

[rnrdthefox]

Welcome. Looks like a good canvas to start with. Only tip I can suggest is to take your time. If things aren't going right, walk away and come back the next day. I find that when I force things, I usually create more work for myself.

[youngrodder]

Looks like a great start. As for suggestions, just build it that way YOU want.
That is the only opinion that counts.

Looking forward to following along.

Marc

[russ3825]

This should keep me busy for awhile!

[russ3825]

Any ideas on getting this old lettering to show. I don’t wanna ruin the current look. Just want to be able to make out what the top says so I can have it touched up.

[NorCalGal]

Might help just to get it wet.

[6DoF]

i keep seeing amazing results with CLR taking the rust out of the paint, then that patina sauce stuff.

[gsinon]

Looks like a solid truck. Great plan, gonna be a nice one!!!

[russ3825]

Finally got started this evening. So far so good.

[russ3825]

A little more progress this evening.

[Tempest67]

count me in on this build.

reminds me of what I started with

[joedoh]

great truck to start with! cant wait to see it done!


if you know someone with a high quality hdr camera and some photo editing software, have them take a super high resolution picture of the door then play around in the color and tint settings, the old sinage may still be readable in the right combination.

[russ3825]

Not much tonight but it needed done. Got the front of the frame stripped the rest of the way down. Tried a new sandblaster, it was a mess. I’ll have to wait till it warms up to get it outside. Next step is to get the front cross member fit up.

[8man]

Moving along there. In for the build.

[Nima]

Solid looking truck and great speed on your restoration.

[russ3825]

Not a lot of time tonight. I got the front crossmember out and the frame trimmed up a little.

[dsraven]

quick work so far. whats the plan up front, MII cross member? I would say maybe run a brace across the frame horns so things don't move on you. also, maybe do the frame checks before you commit to welding something new in. check corner to corner for square. I think the assembly manual says those dimensions can be out an eighth inch, check fore to aft for straight using a string line or a laser. I usually just mark the cross members at their mid point and then run a string or laser down the middle to see if it lands on the midpoint of each cross member. also check for fore to aft sag. better safe than sorry. those sandblasters are for sure an outside deal or else tarp off a "booth" for yourself and wear some respiratory system because the sand aint good for you. I have used those 3m strip it dpads and they work well. or a knotted wire cup wheel on a disc grinder but make sure to wear some good gloves and coveralls because they shed wire which are like little needles.
keep posting up your progress, looks like a fun time. do you have a plan for the end result?

[dsraven]

thats quite a stack of new parts, you're gonna be busy for awhile. are you new to this type of project or have you done one before?

[dsraven]

sorry, I just went back and checked the first post where you tell your plans. I must have been just looking at the pics and missed the writing part.
if you havent done a MII before my tips would be to decide on the stance you want first so you an get the rake angle of the frame and get the frame set up on some sturdy stands and dialed in for level side to side and rake angle fore to aft. try to position the stands so they will support the frame well and not allow movement but also so they will not be in the way when doing the work. I use a cheap digital torpedo level sitting on top of a 4 ft level when needed for extra length. I know some will say thats not required and a bubble level is all you need. true likely but I tried both ways just to see how accurate a bubble level can be so I levelled it up with the bubble then used the digital and it was out a few degrees. if you are ok with that then go for it. the front end alignment guy uses digital tools so he may not be your friend when the time comes, haha. do the frame starightness, squareness and sag checks and then whatever work is needed to get things right before moving forward from there. I suggest to do a quick read on the heidts tech site where there is an article on understanding IFS just so you know and understand how it all works together and should look when done. the article is found in their online caalogue in the tech section I believe. cant hurt to check it out. when you are done the cross member and suspension mock up your lower control arms should be level with the ground side to side and for to aft when at ride height. ride height can be "kept" using some threaded rod to span where the shocks bolt on. tis is a great time to use that digital level on the control arm and also the brake rotor for adjusting the upper control arm in order to ensure there is ample adjustment available for alignment later. I usually tack the cross member in, mock up all the parts and then assemble the front clip to ensure the axle center line is where you like it with the correct diameter of tire set on to show how it fits in the wheel opening of the fender.
just some ideas if you haven't done this sort of thing before. take it or leave it. like someone said above, build it like you want it not how everybody else likes. just build it safe. take pics as you take things apart so later you can reference them. just in case you end up having to leave the project for a bit and then time goes by. in the end, have fun with it.

[oldman3]

Have a question and a statement.

Question, do you plan on reinstalling the front crossmember? Reason I ask, is it is the main location of the front radiator support, both up and down, right and left measurements, that all the front sheetmetal attaches too.

Statement, the rear portion of the crossmember can be removed, all it did was hold the original engine (inline six) mount. If it were me (and it's not) I would cut out part not needed and reinstall the front portion.

No trying to be a smart a$$, just from experience on working with these trucks...Jim

[russ3825]

I got the crossmember close tonight. I have to run to town for some more supplies. Should be able to finish it all up tomorrow hopefully.

[russ3825]

Thanks for all the replies, some very useful information that is much appreciated.
This is my first AD truck as well as my first MII install. I haven't worked on anything older in about 10 years, I have a 68 and 69 C10 that I have done a lot of work on but nothing lately. I grew up in my grandpa's bodyshop (which I now own) so I have been into this stuff for years. The shop is not open anymore, but I finally have the space and some tools to get into this stuff like I want too. I was also a pipefitter so I have some hours behind a grinder.

[oldman3]

If I had waited a day, I would have seen your plan. Nice job...Jim

[dsraven]

one little tidbit, maybe you use it or maybe not thats up to you, when levelling the cross member use the lower control arm pivot bolts installed into their bores but leave enough sticking out so a long level can be placed across them side to side. that is better than assuming they are in line with the outside formed metal of the cross member. same for the fore to aft levelling, use a shorter level on the pivot bolt and have it sticking out enough to allow the level to sit on the shaft of the pivoy bolt. my cross member was not really flat on top and also was not completely true to the pivot centerline.

[russ3825]

Not much over the weekend unfortunately. I did get the C-notches for the rack roughed in tonight. Would like to get the front cleaned up and primed before I install everything. Should have some days in the 40’s this week so shouldn’t be a problem.