79 Trans Am Subframe Vs Camaro Subframe

[Shanehenrymusic]

Hey Guys - Does anyone know if a 79 Trans subframe is the same as a camaro? I've been looking for one for my 1955 chevy truck project. Here's the link on craigslist. I'd appreciate any feedback -

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/pts/2591031801.html

[Speedbumpauto]

Short answer is yes, they're the same from 70-81 in everything but minor motor mount holes, etc. which usually doesn't concern your swap. The only downside is they are slightly wider than 67-69 and some Novas which can make steering problems in lowered trucks, depending on what wheel style you favor. Hiedts and others make narrower control arms if you want to spring for them.....I did because I like a little offset in wheels. The G body Monte Carlo is narrower and the work is about the same, I hear. I am using a 76 Firebird in mine.

[Shanehenrymusic]

cool thanks for the info - I bought the install video from No Limit Engineering and plan on doing the clip myself. Hopefully, I'm not breaking off more than i can chew! Also my truck is the 55-59 2nd series...

[meter swinger]

I believe the trans-am has a differently geared steering box. Fewer turns to lock. Maybe someone knows how to indentify the clip by the box? Im sure someone will chime in with more info.
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[Red Foreman]

For a start they look like Camaro rims & seconed Trans Am's have front swaybars the size of axle tubes! But in saying that it is the correct sub frame that you need for your conversion.

[mr48chev]

As Red said the Trans Am stubs usually have the good pieces on them including the big sway bars and the quick steering box. they are a great choice for the swap.

Lux Blue posted what has become the definitive Task Force truck subframe swap thread on the HAMB a couple of years ago and it is pretty the go to thread on the net for these swaps. He walks you through it quite well.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...=subframe+swap
You have to weed through a lot of pages of comments by others but you can skip over most of them and just check for his posts with the photos.

I've done a few subframe swaps and here is what I can suggest from experience.
1. Set the truck's frame at the static ride height you want it to sit at when you are done. And set it level----------------- don't put a rake in it at this time.
2. Set the stub on blocks at the height that it sat in in the car it came in. That is usually about 6 to 6-1/2 inches from the bottom of the crossmember to the floor. That way when you are done your truck will sit at the height you want it to without having to change springs or spindles or other mods.
Once you have it fitted and tacked together you can raise it up on stands and do the rest of the welding and putting the filler plates on.

You want both pieces level and level to each other so that when you are done it will work the same way that the original car did. Some guys try to build a rake into the frame thinking that they will have better caster angles with the rake and it doesn't work and the frame usually turns out to be junk.

[Maximus]

As already mentioned, the trans am subframe is identical to that of its camaro counterpart. The only differences, as mentioned, are steering components, the frame itself is the same.

I used a trans-am subframe in my '55 2nd series, but i went as far as using the 6.6L Trans-am engine and 4-speed trans. I was a good mechanic but not a grate fabricator and I got throught the conversion ... main tip... before cutting anything measure everything 5 times, then measure again!

[Wheelie]

Mine is a '79 and is same as camaro. If it has the 455 HD option like mine you will enjoy the huge swaybar, coil springs and I believe it has a better close ratio steering box.

nevermind already mentioned!

[ZR2RICK]

I used a 79 Nova clip in my 57, worked great, followed the LUX BLUE Hamb thread , as mentioned before this IS the definitive how to clip a 55-59 Chevy/GMC TF truck, good luck on yours .

[55metalmonkey]

Originally Posted by Shanehenrymusic

cool thanks for the info - I bought the install video from No Limit Engineering and plan on doing the clip myself. Hopefully, I'm not breaking off more than i can chew! Also my truck is the 55-59 2nd series...

The No Limit plan is pretty good but there are other options on how to do a front subframe and IMO is 100x stronger and 1000x easier. If you do a search on this site there should be more than a few. It's where you use the whole subframe vs cutting it and trying to blend it into the 55 frame, Indian113 did a couple posts on it, also I posted a few pics of mine on here & uploaded a crapy short vid to You Tube if you want to see the semi-finished frame.
The benefit is that if your going with any GM block and trans combo it gives you a factory setup for almost all of your drive train. it took me a little over 6 hours start to finish.

[Maximus]

Originally Posted by 55metalmonkey

The No Limit plan is pretty good but there are other options on how to do a front subframe and IMO is 100x stronger and 1000x easier. If you do a search on this site there should be more than a few. It's where you use the whole subframe vs cutting it and trying to blend it into the 55 frame, Indian113 did a couple posts on it, also I posted a few pics of mine on here & uploaded a crapy short vid to You Tube if you want to see the semi-finished frame.
The benefit is that if your going with any GM block and trans combo it gives you a factory setup for almost all of your drive train. it took me a little over 6 hours start to finish.

I really like how clean the blended sub-frame looks, to me, and this is just my opinion but when the subframe is slid under the frame it looks a little more 'back yard'
to each their own, as it most defiantly looks stronger that way...

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Maximus

As already mentioned, the trans am subframe is identical to that of its camaro counterpart. The only differences, as mentioned, are steering components, the frame itself is the same.

I used a trans-am subframe in my '55 2nd series, but i went as far as using the 6.6L Trans-am engine and 4-speed trans. I was a good mechanic but not a grate fabricator and I got throught the conversion ... main tip... before cutting anything measure everything 5 times, then measure again!

How do you like the pontaic 400/ 4speed combo?
I am going to use the same set up in my 52.

[ZR2RICK]

I found in trying to decide which way to mount my subframe ,was there are advantages to each method. But for the "I want my truck "IN THE WEEDS" crowd" when you mount the clip under the stock frame there are are no vertical welds (which I try to avoid when welding on old frames",and there is a lot of horizontal support. You get the "Z" effect of about 3" (free lowering without changing suspension geometry) which is very important when trying to make a lowered vehicle safe to drive and avoid tire wear issues. And the squaring of the two frames is very easy vs the butted method, the bottom of the clip sits almost exactly at the lowest point on the cab sheet metal so nothing hangs down below the body,. So all in all the butt weld method definitely looks more stock if that is what your after but as far as lowering goes you get the effect of a pair of dropped spindles for free with the clip mounted under the stock frame. IMHO after over 30 years of building and lowering suspensions ,There is no " backyard" at all about the structural integrity or safety of either method when you do it correctly .

[55metalmonkey]

JMO but I don't think this looks back yard, but to each their own

My 1955 GMC truck... work in progress -...

[Shanehenrymusic]

I think it looks great the way you did it using the entire subframe.. I'm more concerned with strength and ride quality - than looks.. but honestly i think it looks great! thanks so much for sharing.
Thanks!

[55metalmonkey]

the ride quality will be the same as a Camaro since I used all stock parts, no lowering springs or drop spindles. As for strength it's incredibly strong, When I called the safety inspector to come have a look at it he didn't even questing the strength. overall there is 16' (acually 32' since I did a root/cover) of weld holding it together.

Doing it with butt welding the frame to the subframe definately looks more stock than this way but I liked it for the simplicity (near fool proof), strength and extra drop it gave me.

[Red Foreman]

Originally Posted by ZR2RICK

I found in trying to decide which way to mount my subframe ,was there are advantages to each method. But for the "I want my truck "IN THE WEEDS" crowd" when you mount the clip under the stock frame there are are no vertical welds (which I try to avoid when welding on old frames",and there is a lot of horizontal support. You get the "Z" effect of about 3" (free lowering without changing suspension geometry) which is very important when trying to make a lowered vehicle safe to drive and avoid tire wear issues. And the squaring of the two frames is very easy vs the butted method, the bottom of the clip sits almost exactly at the lowest point on the cab sheet metal so nothing hangs down below the body,. So all in all the butt weld method definitely looks more stock if that is what your after but as far as lowering goes you get the effect of a pair of dropped spindles for free with the clip mounted under the stock frame. IMHO after over 30 years of building and lowering suspensions ,There is no " backyard" at all about the structural integrity or safety of either method when you do it correctly .

Originally Posted by 55metalmonkey

JMO but I don't think this looks back yard, but to each their own
My 1955 GMC truck... work in progress - YouTube

Nicely said ZR2RICK & nice job 55metalmonkey, I too had the tormenting decision on which way to do the clip on my 56GMC but I ended up going underderneath the chassis for all the reasons Rick metioned & maybe more.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by 55metalmonkey

JMO but I don't think this looks back yard, but to each their own
My 1955 GMC truck... work in progress - YouTube

nice, but to me it doesn't' look smooth.JMHO that said, really nice work I would proud of it. It wouldn't fun to go to cruse nite or the nats if we all did exactly the same build

[55metalmonkey]

Thanks for the compliments, I cant take too much credit though. This site and a few people on it led me in the direction on which way I wanted to go.

The great thing about these trucks (and this site) is that the only wrong way is making it unsafe or dangerous.

There are 1000's of opinions on which way is best and just as many benefites to each method. What fit's your budget and makes your truck drive the way you want is the difinitive answer on whats best.

[butchp]

Originally Posted by Speedbumpauto

Short answer is yes, they're the same from 70-81 in everything but minor motor mount holes, etc. which usually doesn't concern your swap. The only downside is they are slightly wider than 67-69 and some Novas which can make steering problems in lowered trucks, depending on what wheel style you favor. Hiedts and others make narrower control arms if you want to spring for them.....I did because I like a little offset in wheels. The G body Monte Carlo is narrower and the work is about the same, I hear. I am using a 76 Firebird in mine.

can you send me the front wheel width and backspace thanks.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Red Foreman

For a start they look like Camaro rims & seconed Trans Am's have front swaybars the size of axle tubes! But in saying that it is the correct sub frame that you need for your conversion.

I have one of those swaybars 1 1/4" Dia.

[Speedbumpauto]

Originally Posted by butchp

can you send me the front wheel width and backspace thanks.

Fronts are 17x7 with a 3 1/2 backspace and it's going to be close. You might be safer with a 6" and 3 1/2 backspace, but I'm determined to get this to work and I like the look.