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Old 10-23-2021, 10:40 PM   #1
Ziegelsteinfaust
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Temple City
Posts: 3,163
I have decided to go LS, and skip SBC this time around.

Well my 383 is beginning to have blow by issues. Along with tuning issues as it's compression ratio is to high for carb/distributor. This weekend I went through 2 tanks of gas, and 3 carbs trying to get rid of tip in knock at cruising rpm. In a sense I succeeded, but it is still there. So I have time to get a new motor.

1. On the computer side of a LS swap. People say the earlier computer is better since it has only 1 computer vs 2 of the later version. Which I like for cleanliness. So how does the Holley Terminator Maxx system line up against factory? I have read it does a few extra things, and some like that. Others like the factory due it does what they need. I am talking a 425 hopefully 450 hp 4.8 or 5.3, and maybe. Just maybe adding nitrous or going turbo for 1/4 mile track time.

I like the Holley since it seems cheaper as it comes with everything, and I would have to buy all the solutions for the factory computer.

2. Early vs late engine strength. Stuff I am reading says the later engines are slightly stronger. Late engines from my reading today late engines with arp studs are good for 600, and earlier something like 550?. I plan to rev to 6500, but I would like a little head room for safety.

3. Are car manifolds worth the money over a truck manifold? Or even going to a FAST or other comparable intake?

I wouldn't mind one for the visuals when the hood is popped, but I have to be cost conscious to hit my high points on the build.

4. california gas. How much compression is safe for a truck that does get used as a truck occasionally. The 4.8/5.3's compression ratios have ranged from 9.1 to 9.9 to 1 over there generations. Is 10.5 safe on 91 octane only diet. Or even 11-1 or is that getting to much on the edge for these things.

I am talking hauling 1200 pounds or towing 7000 pounds.

5. C10 swap set ups or mounts. Are any of the kits better then others, or ones to stay away from.

6. Cam LSA. With out going into tuning extreme mode. Is a 110 LSA cam easy for a novice to navigate through, or do I need a 112 maybe a 114?

7. Low mileage vs rebuild. Any opinions on this? Take a 4.8 or 5.3 re-ring the engine, studs, and swap in a good cam. Or go for a complete rebuild.

8. Better years or models for accessories to fit a square body C10. Or are they all about the same.

9. I have used ebay, CL, facebook, and car-part.com to look for engines. Is there another source I should know of?

Any thing else I should look at? I am looking to start buying parts, but I need to finish my homework. When the deals pop up.

I am still thinking boring a 4.8 to 5.7 bore size, but it is not a requirement.
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Old 10-24-2021, 05:19 PM   #2
LS short box
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Carlos MN
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Re: I have decided to go LS, and skip SBC this time around.

On my LS swaps I've used mostly 24 tooth reluctor engines which use one computer for engine and trans. On two LS swap projects I used 2010 and 2012 L92 (6.2) engines. One had a manual trans so I only needed the engine computer. My current project is a 6.2/4L60E combo so I need a engine and trans computer. No real down or up side for either. Properly tuned both work well.
1. Used Speartech and Howell for computers and engine/trans wiring harnesses. Both companies turn out a good product.
2. Over LS1tech.com many have been using the the Holley system.
3. I don't think the iron blocks have changed much (gen 3 and 4 ) over the years strength wise. The LS1 blocks are the weakest but still able to handle 500 crank hp with no problem.
4. I like the LS6 intakes or LS3 intakes. Used ones come up on LS1tech and Corvette Forums from time to time.
5.I would stay with 10-1 or so just in case the 91 octane isn't available for some reason.
6. Holley has a complete bolt in system. I haven't used it but it seems to get good reviews. I have always pieced my swaps together to save a few bucks.
7. LSA of 110 will have choppier idle compared to a 114 LSA. I like to run a smaller cam so the tune is easy. I like to build more cubes and small cam in lieu of small cubes and big cam.
8. If you are going to haul or tow I would really consider a 6.0 (4" bore). Seems low mileage stuff is getting harder to find. I would buy something with high miles and rebuild. Stock crank and forged rods and pistons. With a 4" bore you can run L92 heads. Good valve springs and push rods.
9. I like 2000 fbody FEA. Gets the alternator down just for looks.
10. If you bore a 4.8 to 5.7 I believe you can get a stroker kit to 383 cubes.
11. Rearend gears. I had 4:10's in my 68 and they were great.
Just my .02 and I'm always happy to spend other folks money LOL.
Good luck with your swap.
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Old 10-25-2021, 01:03 AM   #3
Ziegelsteinfaust
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Location: Temple City
Posts: 3,163
Re: I have decided to go LS, and skip SBC this time around.

Is LS1 tech a good forum? I have seen them, but I need to line some ducks up before the build starts. Plus I have a good amount of time to get it done. So I am looking for deals, and normal pricing schedules Soni can recognize a deal.

I tow infrequently, and it is rarely farther then 80 miles. So I can live with the smaller engine easily. If it was a dually or burb I would build a 6.0 so it won't be stressed.

Personally I am a big cam in a smaller engine guy. I just like the way they are revvy. Not that a big engine couldn't do it. Just that power levels would get beyond my ability to drive faster. So I am keeping the build on-point so I can actually use it the way I want. I have had a 650hp/625tq 540 all aluminum BBC that was power from idle to 6500 rpm where I ran out of bravery. Fun on a 1/4 track. On the street it was terrifying. Both to drive, and at the pump. The engine was in a 68 Nova when I had it, and I DD for 3 weeks once. 50 miles a day to work, and back. When my real DD was t-boned while parked. So if I do up a stroker. It would be for a crew cab, suburban, or a 1/4 car. It is so easy to build big HP now people forget about the vehicles set up, intended purpose, and their talent. I have seen awesome 400hp cars turn to S with 500. Because the way it was intended to work no longer applied, and it took another $5000 to get it right again.

I never thought of a 110 lsa cam as choppy as I DD 106's for many years, and many cars. Since I wanted fuel injection as a primary item of the build. I need to keep it in mind so it is happy. Which is why I decided on LS vs LT1 350.
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Old 10-25-2021, 04:48 PM   #4
LS short box
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Location: Carlos MN
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Re: I have decided to go LS, and skip SBC this time around.

The largest LS I had built was a LS2 I had sleeved and stroked it to 427 cubes. L92 heads. Manley forged stroker kit. I believe the cam was 230I/235E, .600 lift and 114 LSA. On the chassis dyno it did 495 hp. Was easy to tune. Ran great. I had it in a 67 Nova and it was a blast to drive. If I could keep my foot out of it 20 mpg was typical out on the road.
I've been a member of LS1tech.com for 14 years. Some really good folks over there that are more than happy to help with any questions.

Last edited by LS short box; 10-25-2021 at 08:30 PM.
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Old 10-26-2021, 08:15 AM   #5
Ziegelsteinfaust
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Re: I have decided to go LS, and skip SBC this time around.

Thanks,

I will sign up next time I have more free time.
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