The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1960 - 1966 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board > projects and builds

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-05-2023, 01:08 PM   #1
88Stanger
Registered User
 
88Stanger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

Quote:
Originally Posted by Arne View Post
Still following the steering shaft bit. My POL rack still hasn't arrived as yet, but I have the pump mounted using an Alan Grove bracket kit. It looks fine, but I don't know what the shaft clearance is going to be like.
Sounds good. The main issue with the power steering is how it mounted and hit the universal joint for the rack. I tried a Gen 2 type pump with the reservoir attached and that too hit, so I got this Gen 2 type with remote reservoir. It is alot of hose running but I do not mind that, I just use PFTE hose. The other thing to note is that you must reduce the pressure from the pump. Stock GM is 1200 to 1300 lbs and the typical rack wants 800. They sell what the call a ford pressure pump that is for GM, this has the reduced pressure or you can buy the reducing valve that installs into the pump. In my case though, I need the higher pressure for the Hydroboost, but then need to reduce it, so I had to buy the Heidts valve to be able to adjust he pressure to the rack as I like. It has been an adventure learning all this about the pump, hydorboost and a rack system .
__________________
John 3:16 - Saved me... God Bless
88Stanger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2023, 07:02 PM   #2
Arne
Registered User
 
Arne's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 490
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

Quote:
Originally Posted by 88Stanger View Post
The other thing to note is that you must reduce the pressure from the pump. Stock GM is 1200 to 1300 lbs and the typical rack wants 800. They sell what the call a ford pressure pump that is for GM, this has the reduced pressure or you can buy the reducing valve that installs into the pump. In my case though, I need the higher pressure for the Hydroboost, but then need to reduce it, so I had to buy the Heidts valve to be able to adjust he pressure to the rack as I like. It has been an adventure learning all this about the pump, hydorboost and a rack system .
You may want to look at the pressure info and specs again. The "typical" rack conversion that requires pressure reduction to ~800 psi is the old hot rodder favorite Pinto/Mustang II rack. The POL rack for our trucks is based on a mid-90's Dodge Dakota, and should be fine with the higher pressure. I emailed POL tech support and Erick confirmed that the higher pressure from the Saginaw-type pump was fine with their rack, no pressure reduction needed.
__________________
.
- Arne
Finished Project - 1964 C10 Stepside, mild restomod

覧覧覧覧覧覧
Arne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2023, 01:12 PM   #3
88Stanger
Registered User
 
88Stanger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

Quote:
Originally Posted by Arne View Post
You may want to look at the pressure info and specs again. The "typical" rack conversion that requires pressure reduction to ~800 psi is the old hot rodder favorite Pinto/Mustang II rack. The POL rack for our trucks is based on a mid-90's Dodge Dakota, and should be fine with the higher pressure. I emailed POL tech support and Erick confirmed that the higher pressure from the Saginaw-type pump was fine with their rack, no pressure reduction needed.
Oh damn, nice!! Then I can return the 135.00 valve to speedway!! lol

Again, thanks for the update. That helps too with routing!! You saved my butt Arne!!! thank you

Jeff
__________________
John 3:16 - Saved me... God Bless
88Stanger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2023, 12:21 PM   #4
88Stanger
Registered User
 
88Stanger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

Ok, so I got the steering rods, universal joints and heim joint installed, routed and completed, well for now until I do the tear down for paint. Once I got it worked out, it went together really nicely.
BUT Then I tried to fit the new Radiator support and new fenders onto the new inner fender wells. OH DAMN, the fitment sucked! The Rad support went on fairly easily at first... then after close inspection... ya not so well. There (as expected) alot of adjustments, cleaning burrs, hammer and dolly need, and such to get it to fit, but it really does fit now. The main issue was the damn lower Radiator support bushing! There was 1.5" gap where the two main rad. bolts and bushings sit! I bought the bushing mount kit for this and it was only about 1/2" thick, leaving 1" of open space, UNTIL I tried to install the fenders, and figured out that the inner fenders need some persuading.. But, after test fitting the old fender I found that most of the issue is with the inner fender, not outer fender. Anyways, after some slight adjustments with the inner fender... they all mounted up rather nicely and the Rad support bushing kit worked great... now! LOL
__________________
John 3:16 - Saved me... God Bless
88Stanger is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:49 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com