Bullet style starter

[srfinatsunset]

I have a 1968 K10 Suburban. Manual transmission. The starter is bullet style start. It’s a 3 bolt starter. Maybe 55-62 block not real sure. It’s bolts horizontal to the block, Not vertical like the normal small Block would.

I’m looking for an updated style or mini high torque starter that will fit the block.

[RustyPile]

Look closer.. The starter isn't bolted to the block.. It's bolted to the bellhousing.. In the very beginning, Chevrolet designed the starter to mount to the bellhousing.. In 1955, when the first V8 was introduced, this mounting technique was continued for several more years. Judging from the picture, the starter you have is the early design high torque model.. Identified by its overall length.. The field windings are larger and require a longer starter main housing, identified by the copper extension between the solenoid and the winding terminal. I have this same starter on my 454 and it easily cranks the engine.

If the block is drilled for it, you can upgrade to a more modern starter but you may need to grind the bellhousing in that area to gain clearance.

[RustyPile]

I did a little more foot work for you.. According to the Lime Book, engine block is either a 75 - 77 350 or 79 305. Built in Flint, MI on July 1st. Check the casting numbers on the block for clarification and year it was cast.. The smaller stamped numbers to the left is the partial VIN.. If this number matches the VIN on the B pillar, this engine is original to the truck, which I doubt is the case..

According to the stampings, it being a '55 - '62 block does not compute here.

[srfinatsunset]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

I did a little more foot work for you.. According to the Lime Book, engine block is either a 75 - 77 350 or 79 305. Built in Flint, MI on July 1st. Check the casting numbers on the block for clarification and year it was cast.. The smaller stamped numbers to the left is the partial VIN.. If this number matches the VIN on the B pillar, this engine is original to the truck, which I doubt is the case..

According to the stampings, it being a '55 - '62 block does not compute here.

Rusty pile. Yes I see that now. The Bell Housing, I spaced it on that. Everything I’ve work on in the passed, Ford n Chevy modern stuff started bolt to the block. This motor is all over the place.

As for the motor. Nothing matches. The intake, carb, heads and the gloves box sticker.

The posts are loose on the starter that why I’m asking about a new modern style starter.

[RustyPile]

IMHO, that's not a good reason to replace the starter with either a "modern design" or exact replacement.. Those loose terminals and posts can be easily tightened.. So easy you may be able to tighten them with the starter in place.. You can tighten those posts or you can lay on your back grinding away at the bellhousing trying to make a different starter bolt up.. But it's your truck and your money, you call the shots....

In reference to the "hodge podge" of parts that make up your engine.. Throughout the SBC's lifetime (1955 to around 1999), parts have been interchangeable -- heads, intake and exhaust manifolds, valves and springs, blocks, water pumps, fuel pumps, etc... That's the good part about owning and working on an SBC -- parts are available EVERYWHERE..

If you're really concerned about the actual "genealogy" of the block, on the bellhousing flange at the back of the block is where all this information is located.. The date code indicating the year the block was cast is a raised circle much like a sundial. An arrow in the center points to the year. If the engine is in the truck, you'll have a difficult task seeing these numbers. Distributor, valve covers, brake booster, throttle linkage, and firewall are just some of the obstacles blocking your view.

[EDIT]

Upon closer examination of your starter picture.. Referencing the battery cable post. The nut that holds the post is missing. Look at how the other large post hardware is arranged.. Replace that nut, install a lock washer, next is the battery cable, and last to go on is another nut. With the lock washer installed under the cable, the cable won't try to rotate on the post as you tighten the top nut.

[MySons68C20]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

IMHO, that's not a good reason to replace the starter with either a "modern design" or exact replacement.. Those loose terminals and posts can be easily tightened.. So easy you may be able to tighten them with the starter in place.. You can tighten those posts or you can lay on your back grinding away at the bellhousing trying to make a different starter bolt up.. But it's your truck and your money, you call the shots....

In reference to the "hodge podge" of parts that make up your engine.. Throughout the SBC's lifetime (1955 to around 1999), parts have been interchangeable -- heads, intake and exhaust manifolds, valves and springs, blocks, water pumps, fuel pumps, etc... That's the good part about owning and working on an SBC -- parts are available EVERYWHERE..

If you're really concerned about the actual "genealogy" of the block, on the bellhousing flange at the back of the block is where all this information is located.. The date code indicating the year the block was cast is a raised circle much like a sundial. An arrow in the center points to the year. If the engine is in the truck, you'll have a difficult task seeing these numbers. Distributor, valve covers, brake booster, throttle linkage, and firewall are just some of the obstacles blocking your view.

[EDIT]

Upon closer examination of your starter picture.. Referencing the battery cable post. The nut that holds the post is missing. Look at how the other large post hardware is arranged.. Replace that nut, install a lock washer, next is the battery cable, and last to go on is another nut. With the lock washer installed under the cable, the cable won't try to rotate on the post as you tighten the top nut.

Nice catch on the missing nut RP!!!