Battery and temp gauge INOP

[03BlkZ]

So I just recently completed my restoration on my 70 C10 and now 50 miles in my battery and temp gauge quit working. Everything was working great then I took it in for an alignment. When driving home after the alignment I noticed the gauges were not working. I did a brief look around and didn't see anything obvious but I haven't had time to dig in and take a deeper look. Any ideas to help save me some time? Also here are some pics of my babies!

['68OrangeSunshine]

There are 2 short 4 Amp glass fuses inline with the charging wiring, one in each fender/radiator wall corner. Check them for continuity first.

[03BlkZ]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

There are 2 short 4 Amp glass fuses inline with the charging wiring, one in each fender/radiator wall corner. Check them for continuity first.

I do not have those. I have a completely new American autowire harness installed in the truck.

['68OrangeSunshine]

The other obvious cause of your gripe would be disconnected, open, loose terminals on the back of your dash. Both gauges are next to each other. If some ham fisted-mechanic groped around under the dash fishing for the parking brake release, he may have messed with them. You said you didn't notice a problem til you came back from the alignment shop.
Otherwise, you'll have to find someone who's familar with AAW's system. I used M&H, which is a high grade duplicate of factory stock wiring.

[03BlkZ]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

The other obvious cause of your gripe would be disconnected, open, loose terminals on the back of your dash. Both gauges are next to each other. If some ham fisted-mechanic groped around under the dash fishing for the parking brake release, he may have messed with them. You said you didn't notice a problem til you came back from the alignment shop.
Otherwise, you'll have to find someone who's familar with AAW's system. I used M&H, which is a high grade duplicate of factory stock wiring.

I am the one that did the resto and I installed the wire harnesses. When I swapped my ammeter gauge to a battery voltage gauge there is a wire going from the temp gauge to power the battery. Other than that the back of the instrument cluster is factory original. I haven't had a chance to really look at it. The truck is at my parents house 30 minutes away and with my current work schedule I just haven't had time.

[TBONE1964]

Your gauge cluster looks to have one of the volt gauge conversions I sell.


Does the fuel gauge still work? From the factory, the gauge fuse would supply power from the pink wire on the ign switch to the cluster connector.

Check for power at the pink wire at the cluster connector. From the factory it is the number 3 position in the connector. This should have power (battery voltage) when the key is on. The voltage splits in the circuit board and one leg goes to the temp gauge for power and the other leg goes to the fuel gauge for power.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Hope this helps.


Have you checked the fuse by chance? The volt gauge tags power from the temp gaughe as it is the shortest path to get battery voltage to the volt gauge.

[03BlkZ]

Originally Posted by TBONE1964

Your gauge cluster looks to have one of the volt gauge conversions I sell.


Does the fuel gauge still work? From the factory, the gauge fuse would supply power from the pink wire on the ign switch to the cluster connector.

Check for power at the pink wire at the cluster connector. From the factory it is the number 3 position in the connector. This should have power (battery voltage) when the key is on. The voltage splits in the circuit board and one leg goes to the temp gauge for power and the other leg goes to the fuel gauge for power.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Hope this helps.


Have you checked the fuse by chance? The volt gauge tags power from the temp gaughe as it is the shortest path to get battery voltage to the volt gauge.

I will get my dad to go out and check the fuse. Thanks

[03BlkZ]

So the fuse for the gauges was popped. My American autowire kit was a little confusing on the fuses. My kit schematic showed a 5 Amp fuse in the gauges position but the schematics online show a 10 Amp. The kit came with the 5 amp so that's what I put there. Dad put another 5 Amp in its place and all works but I will contact american autowire and confirm I need to put a 10 Amp there. Thanks for the help!

[TBONE1964]

Originally Posted by 03BlkZ

So the fuse for the gauges was popped. My American autowire kit was a little confusing on the fuses. My kit schematic showed a 5 Amp fuse in the gauges position but the schematics online show a 10 Amp. The kit came with the 5 amp so that's what I put there. Dad put another 5 Amp in its place and all works but I will contact american autowire and confirm I need to put a 10 Amp there. Thanks for the help!

Glad to hear you got it figured out. I know from the factory they are low amp fuses but AAW will point you in the right direction for fuse rating.