Putting new heads on for the first time - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

GreenMystChevy · 06-19-2002, 10:55 AM

I just bought some new heads for my 350 that I am putting in because it was cheaper to buy new ones than to get the old ones redone. I have never replaced the heads before and really know nothing about it.
The engine has never been rebuilt and has a lot of carbon and whatnot sitting on top of the pistons. My question is, what do I do from the very start? How do I torque it, what and how can I clean stuff, how do I put the rocker arms on, what do I need to watch out for. etc.? A step by step analysis would be nice, if that's what it takes. Thanks guys for the help. Hopefully I can get this car running so that I can drive myself to work instead of bumming rides from dad : )

67chevelle · 06-19-2002, 11:59 AM

Go down to one of those large chain book stores and get this book. It's a great step by step how to manual on rebuilding sbc engines.. It'll have a lot of the information you're looking for

67chevelle

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/AS...550161-8062558

Big69C20 Toy · 06-19-2002, 12:32 PM

I agree getting that book would definately be helpful. If you're in a bind for finding the book though i'm sure some fellas on here could explain it as best as possible.

Sinister · 06-20-2002, 12:32 AM

the chilton's manual will help as well...
the biggest pain is adjusting the valves, and that isn't so difficult...
now would be a good time to change out your cam as well...

Scrub · 06-20-2002, 01:13 AM

Are the old heads off yet?

GreenMystChevy · 06-20-2002, 10:05 AM

Just got the old heads off, of course that was the easy part. I can always take things apart, it's getting them back together in good shape that is the tough one.
I found this old Chilton's manual around the house, from back in the mid 70's, that has all of the specs.
Is there anything that I need to be more careful of than anything else? Also, what would be a good way to clean the stuff up around there? All the carbon and little sand stuff. Thanks a lot for the reply guys.

GreenMystChevy · 06-20-2002, 06:04 PM

Can anyone help me out with this last part? I am about to put the heads back on, I just don't want to do it with all of that carbon and crap on top and in the engine. I know enough to know that I don't know enough about the insides of engines to go and play around in there. I just want to get it clean and not screw anything up. Suggestions?

batboy · 06-20-2002, 06:38 PM

Removing the carbon gunk is a delicate and painstaking job. As you are probably aware, you need to clean the parts without crud falling down into the water jacket holes are getting grit down between the pistons and cylinder walls. I usually stuff pieces of rags into any openings you don't want crap falling into. Some heavy duty cord stuffed around the the top piston ring helps too (leave a little bit of the end sticking up so you can easily remove it later). Spraying the piston tops with carb cleaner or engine degreaser might help soften up the carbon deposits and make it easier to remove. I like using little plastic putty knifes as scrappers, don't use metal scrappers or screwdrivers on the soft aluminum piston tops or it'll gouge into the pistons. It don't have to be perfectly clean or spotless, but all the flakey carbon should be removed. I generally have a metal coffee can sitting nearby to put all the scrapped material in. Warning, this will take a long time to do right, but don't be tempted to take any shortcuts. After you're done, a shop vac is handy to suck up any loose debris. Then carefully remove the cord and rags which will have crud on it that will try to fall back down into areas you don't want it to fall into.

That link for the book (posted by 67 Chevelle) is the small block rebuilders bible. You really should buy it. Use good gaskets like Fel-Pro. Pay attention to the proper torquing sequence and use a torque wrench. I like to go over the head bolts 3 or 4 times, progressively tightening more and more until the final torque limit is achieved, and then I go over it one last time to make sure. Make sure you lube the lifters, pushrods, and rockers well with clean engine oil. Before putting the intake manifold on (which also needs cleaned really good), turn the engine over to top dead center on number one cylinder. Both of the number one lifters should be sitting low and both rockers will be up (both number one valves will be closed). Read a manual and understand how to do this.

The intake manifold on a small block needs to be carefully installed, because they are prone to oil leaks in the front and rear if the gaskets shifts during the installation. A little gasket sealer helps a lot to tack the gaskets in place. Do not use gasket sealer on the head gaskets though. Place the manifold straight down without sliding it around. The last tricky part is adjusting the rockers. Too loose and you'll beat the valve train to death. Too tight and the valves won't close completely and you won't have compression. Now you can drop the distributor in. This is where most newbies screw up. Again, read a manual and know what you're doing. I got faith you can do it, but please do it right if you want the motor to last. Good luck.

GreenMystChevy · 06-20-2002, 07:06 PM

Now that's what I'm talkin about! Thanks a lot for that reply, that is exactly what I was looking for. It sounds corny, but I can't wait until I have done enough to have the kind of knowledge that some of you guys do to be able to share it with others that are going in for the first time.

I love working on cars and everything I have learned just about everything the hard way. I was raised like that, you know how it is, you just can't get out of it no matter how hard you try. When it comes to internal stuff though, I think and take my time. Thanks again

CoryM · 06-20-2002, 08:50 PM

One suggestion Ill add is once you have most of the old gasket off, use a nice flat Whet stone (for sharpening blades) to level the head and block sealing surfaces. Use some wd40 or something to lube it though. Use a shop vac, but be careful not to suck up and gasoline fumes. I blew my shop vac into peices cleaning out an intake that still had the carb on

Also change the oil and FLUSH the coolant after engine is done, take off a heater hose and stick your garden hose into the rad until the water comes out clear, if you have compressed air you can blow through it a little, not alot, just enough to get the rest of crud out. Adjust valves before sticking intake on. I like to use NEW bolts for the intake. I find that intake bolts tend to snap when you try to reuse then so many times. Thats a headache thats worth the whole $3 to avoid. Good Luck and let us know any more Qs.
CoryM

06-19-2002, 10:55 AM	#1
GreenMystChevy Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Woodinville, WA Posts: 513	Putting new heads on for the first time I just bought some new heads for my 350 that I am putting in because it was cheaper to buy new ones than to get the old ones redone. I have never replaced the heads before and really know nothing about it. The engine has never been rebuilt and has a lot of carbon and whatnot sitting on top of the pistons. My question is, what do I do from the very start? How do I torque it, what and how can I clean stuff, how do I put the rocker arms on, what do I need to watch out for. etc.? A step by step analysis would be nice, if that's what it takes. Thanks guys for the help. Hopefully I can get this car running so that I can drive myself to work instead of bumming rides from dad : ) __________________ Jeremy '71 C-10 '72 GMC K2500 '72 Nova (Dad's) '70 Chevelle SS '55 Sedan Delivery Attempting to build up this here 4x4...make her real tall and purty...well, maybe just tall

06-19-2002, 11:59 AM	#2
67chevelle drag racer Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Meridian Idaho Posts: 127	Go down to one of those large chain book stores and get this book. It's a great step by step how to manual on rebuilding sbc engines.. It'll have a lot of the information you're looking for 67chevelle http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/AS...550161-8062558 __________________ Current rides: 01 GMC 2500 SB HD CC 4x4 8.1 allison 67 Chevelle drag car 516 CI BBC,TH400 9.777 @ 138.4 mph 1970 C10 2WD PU being rebuilt 1967 El Camino 502, TH400 ( wife's drag car) Jr. Dragster 5 hp B&S for the kids

06-19-2002, 12:32 PM	#3
Big69C20 Toy Livin' it up. Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Richland, MI Posts: 2,212	I agree getting that book would definately be helpful. If you're in a bind for finding the book though i'm sure some fellas on here could explain it as best as possible. __________________ -Greg; Sold the 69 C20. It's off to a better home with more love! Now onto the 86 CUCV M1009; K5 blazer with 6.2L diesel, corp 10 bolt axles, Detroit locker in the rear, trutrac front, 3.73 gears, 35" tires.

06-20-2002, 12:32 AM	#4
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	the chilton's manual will help as well... the biggest pain is adjusting the valves, and that isn't so difficult... now would be a good time to change out your cam as well... __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match...

06-20-2002, 01:13 AM	#5
Scrub Collector of rusty Items Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Sisters,Oregon USA Posts: 731	Are the old heads off yet? __________________ Scrub Sisters, Oregon - Home of the Sisters Rodeo. 70 GMC 1,000,000 + miles 72 K-20 project, 456 Dana60 front, Corp14 rear w/locker, 265R19.5 tires 20-ply. Warn 12k winches both ends, Cross-over steering with raised tie-rod, Powerbox steering, 4500 watt 120-AC power, Air, Hydraulic aux power, 4 inch lift, 5000 lb air-bags both ends.

06-20-2002, 10:05 AM	#6
GreenMystChevy Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Woodinville, WA Posts: 513	Just got the old heads off, of course that was the easy part. I can always take things apart, it's getting them back together in good shape that is the tough one. I found this old Chilton's manual around the house, from back in the mid 70's, that has all of the specs. Is there anything that I need to be more careful of than anything else? Also, what would be a good way to clean the stuff up around there? All the carbon and little sand stuff. Thanks a lot for the reply guys. __________________ Jeremy '71 C-10 '72 GMC K2500 '72 Nova (Dad's) '70 Chevelle SS '55 Sedan Delivery Attempting to build up this here 4x4...make her real tall and purty...well, maybe just tall

06-20-2002, 06:04 PM	#7
GreenMystChevy Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Woodinville, WA Posts: 513	Can anyone help me out with this last part? I am about to put the heads back on, I just don't want to do it with all of that carbon and crap on top and in the engine. I know enough to know that I don't know enough about the insides of engines to go and play around in there. I just want to get it clean and not screw anything up. Suggestions?

06-20-2002, 06:38 PM	#8
batboy Registered User Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Kansas, USA Posts: 175	Removing the carbon gunk is a delicate and painstaking job. As you are probably aware, you need to clean the parts without crud falling down into the water jacket holes are getting grit down between the pistons and cylinder walls. I usually stuff pieces of rags into any openings you don't want crap falling into. Some heavy duty cord stuffed around the the top piston ring helps too (leave a little bit of the end sticking up so you can easily remove it later). Spraying the piston tops with carb cleaner or engine degreaser might help soften up the carbon deposits and make it easier to remove. I like using little plastic putty knifes as scrappers, don't use metal scrappers or screwdrivers on the soft aluminum piston tops or it'll gouge into the pistons. It don't have to be perfectly clean or spotless, but all the flakey carbon should be removed. I generally have a metal coffee can sitting nearby to put all the scrapped material in. Warning, this will take a long time to do right, but don't be tempted to take any shortcuts. After you're done, a shop vac is handy to suck up any loose debris. Then carefully remove the cord and rags which will have crud on it that will try to fall back down into areas you don't want it to fall into. That link for the book (posted by 67 Chevelle) is the small block rebuilders bible. You really should buy it. Use good gaskets like Fel-Pro. Pay attention to the proper torquing sequence and use a torque wrench. I like to go over the head bolts 3 or 4 times, progressively tightening more and more until the final torque limit is achieved, and then I go over it one last time to make sure. Make sure you lube the lifters, pushrods, and rockers well with clean engine oil. Before putting the intake manifold on (which also needs cleaned really good), turn the engine over to top dead center on number one cylinder. Both of the number one lifters should be sitting low and both rockers will be up (both number one valves will be closed). Read a manual and understand how to do this. The intake manifold on a small block needs to be carefully installed, because they are prone to oil leaks in the front and rear if the gaskets shifts during the installation. A little gasket sealer helps a lot to tack the gaskets in place. Do not use gasket sealer on the head gaskets though. Place the manifold straight down without sliding it around. The last tricky part is adjusting the rockers. Too loose and you'll beat the valve train to death. Too tight and the valves won't close completely and you won't have compression. Now you can drop the distributor in. This is where most newbies screw up. Again, read a manual and know what you're doing. I got faith you can do it, but please do it right if you want the motor to last. Good luck. __________________ 1972 Chevy 3/4 ton Camper Special 1970 Chevy big block parts truck 1989 Chevy Blazer Silverado 4X4 Last edited by batboy; 06-20-2002 at 06:44 PM.

06-20-2002, 07:06 PM	#9
GreenMystChevy Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Woodinville, WA Posts: 513	Now that's what I'm talkin about! Thanks a lot for that reply, that is exactly what I was looking for. It sounds corny, but I can't wait until I have done enough to have the kind of knowledge that some of you guys do to be able to share it with others that are going in for the first time. I love working on cars and everything I have learned just about everything the hard way. I was raised like that, you know how it is, you just can't get out of it no matter how hard you try. When it comes to internal stuff though, I think and take my time. Thanks again

06-20-2002, 08:50 PM	#10
CoryM Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Surrey, B.C. , Canada Posts: 874	One suggestion Ill add is once you have most of the old gasket off, use a nice flat Whet stone (for sharpening blades) to level the head and block sealing surfaces. Use some wd40 or something to lube it though. Use a shop vac, but be careful not to suck up and gasoline fumes. I blew my shop vac into peices cleaning out an intake that still had the carb on Also change the oil and FLUSH the coolant after engine is done, take off a heater hose and stick your garden hose into the rad until the water comes out clear, if you have compressed air you can blow through it a little, not alot, just enough to get the rest of crud out. Adjust valves before sticking intake on. I like to use NEW bolts for the intake. I find that intake bolts tend to snap when you try to reuse then so many times. Thats a headache thats worth the whole $3 to avoid. Good Luck and let us know any more Qs. CoryM __________________ 1970 heavy duty C-10 fleetside sport truck. Vancouver B.C. Canada http://www.geocities.com/chevroletc1070 "Take up our quarrel with the foe: To you from failing hands we throw The torch; be yours to hold it high." Lieutenant Colonel John McCrae, Canadian Army



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