1958 Apache Big Window Loooooong Bed "Lucky"

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by my56chevytruck

you do good work!

Thanks! Once I shot it in a matte primer to keep it from rusting, it definitely looked better

[Rickysnickers]

'20s or not, looks like you did really well!!!

[daveshilling]

'20s or not, looks like you did really well!!!

your doing a fine job. each time you fabricate something you get a little better and gain more experience....as for that shrinking disc....I have one.it works, but the pros make it look easy, its something that takes time to get good at it.like everything else, its also not something you used on everything. but its another tool thats nice to have

Thanks Gents! Learning as I go! I goofed around with a torch and wet rag today... that will take some learning too.

[G&R's57GMC]

Dave you’re doing great fab work keep at it .

BTW Happy New Year !

[dsraven]

if you have an old steam iron that puts out pretty good heat still you can try that like a shrinking disc. the nice thing about the shrinking disc compared to a torch is that it only heats up the high spots and a torch is also easy to overheat. heat and use a wet rag or sponge but only heat enough to make steam when you apply the rag. an iron will likely take longer but probably get the same result. it really comes down to getting the sheet metal work as smooth as possible first. hammer and dolly technique is a good skill to practice on with some old panels. there is a good little read called "the key to metal bumping", it's an old book but teaches some techniques of how to start removing a dent etc. there is an online pdf for free I think.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by dsraven

if you have an old steam iron that puts out pretty good heat still you can try that like a shrinking disc. the nice thing about the shrinking disc compared to a torch is that it only heats up the high spots and a torch is also easy to overheat. heat and use a wet rag or sponge but only heat enough to make steam when you apply the rag. an iron will likely take longer but probably get the same result. it really comes down to getting the sheet metal work as smooth as possible first. hammer and dolly technique is a good skill to practice on with some old panels. there is a good little read called "the key to metal bumping", it's an old book but teaches some techniques of how to start removing a dent etc. there is an online pdf for free I think.

Oh yeah I need to do some reading for sure! Good suggestion

[daveshilling]

Switching gears for a bit just to keep things interesting. Wiring up power, relays, and PCM signal for my '94 T-Bird Junkyard fan.

I've had these bits for awhile but didn't get started on the electric fan wiring until I could decide how I wanted to connect the wires and what type of power/fuse block I could score from the yard. I landed on some delphi style weather pack connectors for the PCM fan control wires and key hot 12v power, with one plug for the low speed and one for the high speed.

I had to add these wires into my LS PCM and did so back when I was reworking my harness. I figured if I DIDN'T use electric fans, then these wires could just be tucked, but I definitely wouldn't want to go back and do this later!

I snagged this power distribution block from a junkyard, and it has 100A and 50A fuses, which is perfect, and if I want to drop the fuse amperage, just file away some metal on the sides! I'll be using this block to provide battery 12v to the fans as well at the headlights, and I'll be controlling the headlights via relay instead of having them pull 12V through the old headlight switch. Once its taped and loomed it should looks decent. I wish they didn't use all these bright primary colors in the relay wiring, but I didn't want to rebuild the whole thing so I'll just hide it.

I'm trying to retain the ability to remove the entire front clip, wiring and all, so I've got some larger connectors on order to create a harness of sorts for the front clip electrical just as they came from the factory.

[daveshilling]

While i wait for more electrical parts to arrive, I returned back to the drivers door area, as there are probably 20 more little jobs waiting for me until I have a functional door that can close securely.

Next up on the list was making a new captive nut so I can get hinges installed, test fit the door, and fine tune the fit the best I can without removing any more factory paint.

I used some mild steel for the nut, drilled and tapped for 7/16 fine thread, then sized it to fit into some square tubing. The tubing makes it easy to capture the nut after some cutting and bending. Then I drilled holes in the pocket face and tacked the nut in, making sure to center it first.

As you can see, precision wasn't really necessary here, as it's all hidden, plus the tubing prevents the twisting force far better than the factory sheet metal cage

[dsraven]

nice job. gotta do that to a few doors i have too.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by dsraven

nice job. gotta do that to a few doors i have too.

Thanks, it's one of those chores that doesn't result in a cool new feature, but it must be done. The tubing made it very simple though! 10/10 would recommend.

[daveshilling]

After searching for YEARS, all around the country, I've finally located a front clip to replace what I have. I got to practice some metal work on mine, but this clip is just in better shape, and more importantly, its an excellent match!!

Even more awesome is that instead of having to ship it here from heaven-knows-where, it was only 2 hours from home.

I prefer the 59 emblems too, so that's an added bonus.

[G&R's57GMC]

Nice score Dave !

[dsraven]

looks to be in great shape. did you score the box too?

[dsraven]

was the seller planning a perimiter frame under it and gave up possibly?

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by dsraven

was the seller planning a perimiter frame under it and gave up possibly?

It was a long box with mis-matched fenders, so I left it there. If it were a perfect shortbox, then I'd have brought it home!

Actually, they are using the cab and frame to make a '57 instead so these were just unwanted leftover dropped on a ford car frame. Win/win, as I needed specifically what they did not! I wouldn't have said no to two nice doors though (=

[dsraven]

i'd have taken the box anyway. the fenders look really good. a long box is easily shortened but I would likely just keep the fenders and do an ad for the rest. lots of guys looking for a deal on a tailgate or box sides etc. if I get a deal I usually take what I need and pass along the deal to the next old truck guy. it keeps the old trucks alive and I usually make coffee money too. the box fits up to "66.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by dsraven

i'd have taken the box anyway. the fenders look really good. a long box is easily shortened but I would likely just keep the fenders and do an ad for the rest. lots of guys looking for a deal on a tailgate or box sides etc. if I get a deal I usually take what I need and pass along the deal to the next old truck guy. it keeps the old trucks alive and I usually make coffee money too. the box fits up to "66.

Yeah well you have somewhere to keep it! I don't. He's listed the bed for sale, and an old truck guy will surely buy it, so all is well.

[dsraven]

yep, another old truck guy will be happy for sure.

[daveshilling]

Well I don't have a working Transmission yet, but that wont stop me from making progress.

Time to mock up an exhaust.

I got some downpipes from the junkyard, and had to cut one and re-angle it. I added a little pie-cut pipe slice to the gap and it angled much better underneath the truck

I bought 2.5" kit on ebay and ended up using only the straight pieces, so far.. I may end up needing little else depending on where i route this exhaust to exit.

I read that an H Pipe produced a better sound and I liked that it created a one-piece back half of the exhaust. It came with a spare 24" tube that was the perfect amount to join to the manifold downpipes I made, just using 12" sections for each.

I bought some Magnaflow straight-through mufflers... even on this little 4.8L it sounds awesome. Check out the Amazon Used deals... I got one for $40 and it was damn near new.

I used some clamps to connect it up to the downpipes so it can be removed if needed, and I have the mufflers just up on jackstands for now, while I figure out what I want the hangers to look like. I like the Welder Series hangers, and may go that route.

[OKGMC4]

The h pipe does make it sound a little better. I noticed just a hair more torque down low, too. For me the best part was that it saved my driveshaft…short time after putting it in I lost the front u joint on a 1-2 gear shift. The driveshaft landed on the h pipe instead of the ground and all I needed was a new yoke, u joint, and rebalance.

[dsraven]

looks good. will you also install downturned tips to keep the heat and oxidation from exhaust gasses to a minimum?

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by dsraven

looks good. will you also install downturned tips to keep the heat and oxidation from exhaust gasses to a minimum?

I'm going to let future me worry about that. I've left the tips open like this so that I can figure out what makes the most sense. I've considered dumping out near the steps, but I sort of parked that decision for now as I don't even have a functional, driving truck yet, and it actually sounds like a fun project for future me to look forward too after I get some other stuff accomplished.

But bare minimum, i'd add some tips pointing down, yes.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by OKGMC4

The h pipe does make it sound a little better. I noticed just a hair more torque down low, too. For me the best part was that it saved my driveshaft…short time after putting it in I lost the front u joint on a 1-2 gear shift. The driveshaft landed on the h pipe instead of the ground and all I needed was a new yoke, u joint, and rebalance.

Oh, nice! That's cheap insurance... I wish I'd have though of that, I think mine is JUST before that point... now you have me thinking though, maybe I'll install something else that achieves this. Can't hurt.

[daveshilling]

I also got the mounts for my Champion LS Swap radiator relocated, FINALLY. By removing them and rewelding them here, it creates a mounting point for the 94-96 T-Bird Dual Speed Fan and at the same time, it sets the radiator much closer to the grille and away from the water pump pulley...

I still need to do some final fitment, bolt it on, etc but I'm pretty happy with this little modification...solved two problems at once!

[OKGMC4]

Holy moly! I had to do the exact same thing on my Champion radiator like a decade ago! Thought maybe mine was a fluke but apparently they are all made that way.