No Limit Trailing Arm Rear Suspension

[GEARBOXGARAGE]

Looks great Rob!

[smbrouss70]

Did you get any pictures of the truck once the bed was back on?

[crakarjax]

Rob, first off I should say I love your products, and I apologize for asking so many questions about them

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Sway Bars Rear sway bars are effective suspension tools that can be used to tune and custom tailor the ride to your liking. Our original design idea was to use a 'floating' bar and links, mounted to the chassis (again, reduction of un-sprung weight) and use links to connect to the trailing arms in a leveraged location. This will somewhat reduce to bars effectiveness, and allow the truck to 'settle in' to the corners with more tire grip.

This truck had a bunch of parts all ready on it. One of those items was a Hotchkis Suspension floating sway bar. Not a bad design, and almost exactly where we had planned our bar location. - If you check out our rear bar for OE C10's, it's in the same area. So, for the sake of the customer, we decided to re-use the Hotchkis bar. The links were adjusted and it bolts to the trailing arm in the provided mount lugs. The Hotchkis Bar is 3/4" solid. Our plans call for a 1" x .120 wall bar. The twist rates are almost the same. To us, the larger bushing mount surface of the 1" bar is a plus.

*** We will report back on the driver feeling, bar vs. no bar ***

I think I recall someone saying that it's best for the rear bar to mount on or as close to the axle as possible, but this bar is mounted on the trailing arms. I gather that doing this reduces the effective rate of the bar, by 33% based on the leveraged mounting location. Is there any other benefit to mounting on the axle besides maintaining bar effectiveness/less bar weight?

[dirtyjim]

Rob, can you pm me a shipping estimate to Alvin, tx 77511. residential address.
it will probably be early april before i'm ready to order.
thanks, jimmy

[BAGGEDLB7]

How well would this setup work for 1/4 mile launches?

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by BAGGEDLB7

How well would this setup work for 1/4 mile launches?

Hmm, well, much better than OE or modded OE, due to the increased anti-squat %, and the shock quality and softer spring. But, for hard core drag use, a 4 link would be best.

[70inbville]

Thanks Rob, I want the ride and drop of about 7 in so yes to the blocks. any worries of scrub line with a 16 in wheel with this kit at that drop?

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by 70inbville

Thanks Rob, I want the ride and drop of about 7 in so yes to the blocks. any worries of scrub line with a 16 in wheel with this kit at that drop?

Scrub line would be close. The lowest point of the system (like a stock trailing arm), is the U-bolt and hardware under the axle. With out any blocks, this is 5.75" (measured from the axle CL down to the lowest point) with our trailing arm kit. So, with a 2" block, you will have 7.75" from the axle CL down, and a 16" rim will have a scrub line of appx 8.2". So, it's close with a 16" wheel, but you will have .45" to spare.

[70's luvr]

I'm about to put a c-notch in and am really interested in your version that doesn't hack more than whats needed.

[Skippy77]

What a great new option!

Any plans to make this compatible with your raised rear rail kit? Is the test mule in the photos running your wide ride IFS? And if you have a picture with the bed back on yet I'd love to see it!

-Skippy

[robnolimit]

Did some more testing this weekend. Bed is on, Truck sits perfect, we put 3/4" of rake in it, to make it 'look' flat. At that point, we had 3.875" of 'up' travel avail, and over 4" of 'droop' avail. Ride quality and street handling is excellent! Our low tech testing with a few cones, and the memory of previous handling characteristics, shows the truck to have much more grip through the corner, a quicker corner entry, and a LOT more acceleration grip at corner exit (this is where it would get loose and want to spin before). I'll get picts up later today

[68Stepbed]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Did some more testing this weekend. Bed is on, Truck sits perfect, we put 3/4" of rake in it, to make it 'look' flat. At that point, we had 3.875" of 'up' travel avail, and over 4" of 'droop' avail. Ride quality and street handling is excellent! Our low tech testing with a few cones, and the memory of previous handling characteristics, shows the truck to have much more grip through the corner, a quicker corner entry, and a LOT more acceleration grip at corner exit (this is where it would get loose and want to spin before). I'll get picts up later today

No photos? You need to fire your photographer!! LOL

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

The drop amount is somewhat adjustable, but I would say you will be in the 5" to 7" area. Outside of this range and you start running out of the range in which the panhard rod stays in a range of 0 to 3 degrees from level. So, call it 6" with a little adjustment range.

In the picts you can see that the truck has some rake, but the bed is not on. As soon as this is done, like this weekend, I'll get some picts and some finished ride height measurements. We should have done this on the other test trucks but things happen so fast as soon as they get to driving, and we missed the chance.

Originally Posted by 68Stepbed

No photos? You need to fire your photographer!! LOL

Would still like to see some pictures with the bed on.

[robnolimit]

OK OK. Here are some picts. The truck sits good now with the bed on, but no floor in it yet. The truck has appx 1" rake. One of the things that slowed picts down is that the truck was apart again for a cam swap and a tune. The owner reports that the torque and throttle response is WAY better, and even with the increased power, the truck hooks and leaves with a lot less wheel spin. He also reports that mid corner grip and corner exit grip/acceleration inspires a LOT of confidence. (maybe too much) - But that it really stays connected to the road. The current spring is a 14" 225 lb. We are going to try a 12" 250lb spring to get a little bit more drop, more adjustment on the spring collar, and a bit firmer - about 10% is all. One pict shows the clearance in the notch at Ride Height.

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Oops, it is a 5/8" drill bit. You will need three bits in total. 1/4", 3/8", and 5/8".

Thanks for the order, - no notch yet, appx 60 days

Originally Posted by robnolimit

OK OK. Here are some picts. The truck sits good now with the bed on, but no floor in it yet. The truck has appx 1" rake. One of the things that slowed picts down is that the truck was apart again for a cam swap and a tune. The owner reports that the torque and throttle response is WAY better, and even with the increased power, the truck hooks and leaves with a lot less wheel spin. He also reports that mid corner grip and corner exit grip/acceleration inspires a LOT of confidence. (maybe too much) - But that it really stays connected to the road. The current spring is a 14" 225 lb. We are going to try a 12" 250lb spring to get a little bit more drop, more adjustment on the spring collar, and a bit firmer - about 10% is all. One pict shows the clearance in the notch at Ride Height.

Rob,

When you guys went to the 12" 250lb spring did you change the shock? Or did he stick with the C213-W shock (7.00" shock stroke)?

[68Stepbed]

That has a great stance! Thanks for the updated photos, Rob! Now time to start saving my pocket change!! lol

[robnolimit]

Thanks. I have some news coming soon. For the last few years I have been working on a purchasing plan for our customers. This could be huge for the consumer/builder, in the 'time-line' and 'financial planning' areas. It has never been done in Hot-Rodding before (and I understand why). We are very close to an announcement and testing. I'll keep you posted.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Thanks. I have some news coming soon. For the last few years I have been working on a purchasing plan for our customers. This could be huge for the consumer/builder, in the 'time-line' and 'financial planning' areas. It has never been done in Hot-Rodding before (and I understand why). We are very close to an announcement and testing. I'll keep you posted.

Interested in learning more about this.

[duallyjams]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Thanks. I have some news coming soon. For the last few years I have been working on a purchasing plan for our customers. This could be huge for the consumer/builder, in the 'time-line' and 'financial planning' areas. It has never been done in Hot-Rodding before (and I understand why). We are very close to an announcement and testing. I'll keep you posted.

awesome

[68Stepbed]

Oh really? I may have to swing by one day this week and see about the inside scoop on this!

[smbrouss70]

Wish I lived that close... I'd have one of just about everything that No Limit makes... and I'd be single again...

[Skippy77]

Is this truck running your wide ride IFS?
Posted via Mobile Device

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by Skippy77

Is this truck running your wide ride IFS?
Posted via Mobile Device

The truck currently has the front Hotchkis TVS system on it, with drop spindles.

[SierraMtns]

Hey Rob,

I have a couple questions before I place my order.

1. Could we order the kit with 12" 250lb spring?

2. Would this kit work with your guys rear sway bar?

http://www.nolimitengineering.com/pr...tegory=6157532

3. Would the kit work with this c-notch? It looks like it would but I am hoping you could tell from the pictures if it would or not.



4. Is the pinion angle built into the trailing arms or would I need to run shims?

5. Whats the lead time on one of these kits?

Thanks

[SierraMtns]

Worked with Jessica at No Limit this morning and got this kit order. Went with 12" 250 lbs springs and 2" blocks. It sounds like they don't have a c-notch built for this kit yet. I'll mount the kit and see how much of a notch will be needed. Would like to keep as much of the frame a possible. I have looked at a couple pipe notches. I'll keep you guys posted.