HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by Barebones66

Excellent thread

Very helpful

thanks !!!

Originally Posted by kizer

Ok, I'm assuming your using the port on the master farthest towards the grill as your front connection and the one closest to your firewall as your rear wheels right or am I backwards or are you going to tell me it doesn't matter?

Yes...thats correct....I couldn't get it to bleed the other way.

Originally Posted by padresag

It would be benificial to most to show what you used for a plug to plug that fitting in the frt tee. for the uninitiated they would have a problem with that ( knowing what it was, and inding a counterperson that knew)
ron

I plan on a complete listing when I'm done with this...thanks

Originally Posted by padresag

'

you can buy a tube bender(not expensive), sandbag or you can find something which has the curve which you need and place the line on it and just slap the line with a flat piece of wood and form it around it. if you try bending it by hand you usually end up with a kink in it
ron

Sandbag.....thats why he mentioned the belly !!

Originally Posted by slepysal

man I got to get mine done!! Thanks John this will be a great help

You welcome !!!

Originally Posted by ol Curt

Did you have to bench bleed the master or is that just done for power brakes?

Originally Posted by ol Curt

Chief might have got tied up with something or hasn't been on. anybody else know about bleeding the master?

Originally Posted by Captainfab

All master cylinders should be bench bled regardless whether they are a manual or power.

Sorry man...I caught this nasty flu virus (that has gone thru my whole family and then some)...so I haven't been on here for a few days.

Thanks Captain....yes you should bench-bleed them. It amazing how much air is trapped in a new master.

[ljackson]

Here is some info on the MC I think I will use. I think the Pic is at the bottom. The my MC came from orielly;s part number 10-1339 the pic on their site shows a different MC

Fenco Reman / Master Cylinder (Brake System)
For your 1967 Chevrolet Truck C10 1/2 ton P/U 2WD 4.6L 2BL OHV 8cyl PREVIOUS
Price:$14.99

Core*Core value is the used part that manufacturers use for rebuilding. AutoZone charges the core value to customers because manufacturers include it in their prices. When you return your core to AutoZone, we'll refund your core charge.: $9.00

Total:$23.99AVAILABILITY: SEND TO STORE LISTAVAILABLENormally stocked at your local store.
SHIP TO HOMEAVAILABLEShips within 2 business days.

Part Number: M1505
Weight: 8.75 lbs
Warranty: LLT
Application: With front drum brakes

Notes: - installer warning - unit must be bench bled. If you experience any installation problems, call toll free: USA 1-866-787-5132 can 1-800-293-0760

Reservoir: With Reservoir - Built In
Bore Size: 1"
Cylinder Honing: Never Honed
New Sleeved Bore: Yes
Special Installation Notes Included: Yes
Primary - Hole Size and Location: 9/16"-18 Fender Side
Secondary - Hole Size and Location: 1/2"-20 Fender Side


Features & Benefits:

100% : New Sleeved Bore, New Epdm (Ethylene Propylene Diene M) Seals & O Rings, Computerized Multi Stage Tested. Push Rods On All Manual Applications, Includes Part Specific Bleeder Kit

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by joe231

i just wanted to add..................the 67-up truck masters work also, they can be had in drum/drum or disc/drum for under $30 too.

Yeap...that is corrrect. I went with an Impala, only because I had one sitting in the shop at the time for comparison.

Also, a '69 Vette will also be a dirrect bolt-up for a disc/disc !! Funny, how do I know about that ??

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by truckdude239

just a reminder to guys bending there own lines just remember if you have to flare please use double flares. i know its common sense please dont get offend.

Yes....that is important, and thanks for mentioning that if I didn't.

Originally Posted by LILRED66

Good stuff John...thanks for sharing.

Your Welcome !!

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by Chuck78

ditto on the fittings list! I'd like to have it all ready to go so I can put it together in one evening.

No need to do any type of proportioning or metering valve to give the fronts more fluid in a drum/drum setup??????

No need for a prop valve when using a drum/drum....the master takes care of the pressure differences...

Sorry, I'll get the fitting list soon...

Originally Posted by hAetWagon

I bench bleed my MC's by bolting it up, filling the reservoir and running a line from the port to the reservoir and pumping it. I never understood using a vise, etc. Thoughts?

Works the same way....on a vise you can watch it closely thats all.