My 83 chevy k10 has a dying problem

[GOPAPA]

first time it died was right after I filled it with gas all the way up . I got down the street about a mile and it just died on me.. In about 3-5 minutes I took the gas cap off and replaced it and after a few turn overs it started up and I drove the rest of the way home about another mile and it seemed ok ..

it set for a few weeks and I took it out for a drive after it set warming up some 5 minutes and again after about about 3/4 of a mile it died

Again I took the gas cap off and put it back on and it started up and I drove back home .. I do see that the gas tank guage still reads completely full ..

I have read that a fuse to the sending unit is under the dash to the left of the steering wheel ..pink or red wire .. I will check that out ,,but in the mean time any help or suggestions is welcomed as I never had this exact thing happen with any car or truck I ever had.. thx for

[MySons68C20]

Weak or intermittent fuel pump or clogged filter? I like to check the easy things first

[GOPAPA]

Originally Posted by MySons68C20

Weak or intermittent fuel pump or clogged filter? I like to check the easy things first

thanks

[truckster]

If it's an 83, it would have a mechanical fuel pump. They don't generally have intermittent problems like the electric pumps do. The fuel filter is a definite possibility. So is the sock in the fuel tank. After this many years, they tend to disintegrate and clog the fuel line.

[GOPAPA]

Originally Posted by truckster

If it's an 83, it would have a mechanical fuel pump. They don't generally have intermittent problems like the electric pumps do. The fuel filter is a definite possibility. So is the sock in the fuel tank. After this many years, they tend to disintegrate and clog the fuel line.

I figured that also as the engine is not fuel injection ,, I do have a fuel filter and it looks good ,,it's the glass one you can see the filter inside.. I will replace it anyway ,and go ahead and change the fuel pump .. , .. the truck has a fuel cell Aluminum tank at the rear .. The Engine is 1978- 350 with an over haul with 28,000 mile on it . What are you refering to about a sock.. is that a fuel filter? The truck has a tank at the rear as the saddle tanks have been taken out and the gas doors welded shut and smooth sides now ,

Thx for the advice

[geezer#99]

Could be vapor lock.
Do you have a vented cap?

[cadillac_al]

If you have a clear fuel filter then you can easily see if it is pumping gas.

[RustyPile]

I don't think "fiddling with" the gas cap has anything to do with solving the issue. Also, vapor lock isn't a prime suspect as '83s had a fuel recirculation system as part of the fuel pump.

I'm gonna take you down another path. Sounds typical of early ignition module failure.. Have you checked for ignition spark at a spark plug during the no start condition??

[geezer#99]

Instead of fiddling, you should be reading crustypile!
He’s got a fuel cell out back!

[truckster]

If it's got a fuel cell it might not have a sock. The sock is a flexible strainer that's found on the pickup tube.

I also agree that a bad HEI module can seem like a fuel delivery problem.

[Dead Parrot]

Check the suction fuel lines from the top of the tank to the the frame rail. Out of sight, out of mind. If it is original, probably crumbling away. A hole in that line won't leak much gas out but will let air in. My 75 was behaving similar to yours until I replaced the what looked original rubber line a few years ago.

Mice will sometimes nibble on that hose causing the same problem. Its really irritating to have a fuel starvation problem when you have 2 full 20 gallon tanks. Both fairly new hoses had gnaw holes in them. This happened after the original hose was replaced.

[GOPAPA]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

I don't think "fiddling with" the gas cap has anything to do with solving the issue. Also, vapor lock isn't a prime suspect as '83s had a fuel recirculation system as part of the fuel pump.

I'm gonna take you down another path. Sounds typical of early ignition module failure.. Have you checked for ignition spark at a spark plug during the no start condition??

I read this from another site and want your opinion on it ,, asthis guy agrees with you .. he says this below

I'm pretty sure you have an ignition problem. From the sound of things your pick up coil is going bad, and the heat aggrevates the problem, which is a classis symptom. You can force the failure mode by thermal shocking the pick up coil and the module to determine which one is causing the problem, but my money is on the pick up coil. Do this:

1. Let the engine get cold, so tha the problem is not happening.

2. Pull the cap, get a heat gun and heat up the pick up coil. Try to heat the pick up coil and not the module. Put an omh meter across the pick up coil leads and see if the resitance makes a dramatic change while you heat the coil. Copper has a thermal coeffcicent of resistance, but ti is veyr small, so you should see very small changes. If you see changes on the order of 100's of ohms or higher, you have a bad pick up coil.

OR, just change the thing and be done with it. Cams don't get worse as the engine heats up, and you have tried enough good carbs to eleminate that problem. Heat induced probelems are almost always electrical related, and heat induced ignition problems on electronic ignitions are almost always the pick up coil, followed by the module.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Instead of fiddling, you should be reading crustypile!
He’s got a fuel cell out back!

You're little short on perception, don't ya think, greezy69??? I reported your denigrating post to the "officials" over 24 hours ago but haven't heard a word from them about it, so I take that to mean it's now ok to engage in harassment and name calling.. But before I get started with my rebuttal, I feel I must alert you to something.. Your colonoscopy bag needs attention. The smell emanating from it is strong enough to knock a flock of buzzards off a gut wagon..

NOTHING I said (typed) made reference to you... I repeat ---NOTHING!!!.. I didn't "quote" you... I didn't even mention you in my post.. Not only that, nothing I said was intended to insult, harass, nor bully anyone.. At the time of my post, everyone was pointing to a fuel delivery problem. This often leads the OP to needless replacement of parts before conducting a proper diagnosis.. GOPOPPA has already said he'll be replacing the fuel pump, but has said nothing about conducting any troubleshooting..

Before closing, I want to point out this is not the first time you have used this forum to attack me.. it seems if I offer something that opposes your opinion, you jump on me.. In the past, I haven't said anything.. But as of now, I DEMAND THAT YOU CEASE ATTACKING ME!!!!!!

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by GOPAPA

I read this from another site and want your opinion on it ,, asthis guy agrees with you .. he says this below

I'm pretty sure you have an ignition problem. From the sound of things your pick up coil is going bad, and the heat aggrevates the problem, which is a classis symptom. You can force the failure mode by thermal shocking the pick up coil and the module to determine which one is causing the problem, but my money is on the pick up coil. Do this:

1. Let the engine get cold, so tha the problem is not happening.

2. Pull the cap, get a heat gun and heat up the pick up coil. Try to heat the pick up coil and not the module. Put an omh meter across the pick up coil leads and see if the resitance makes a dramatic change while you heat the coil. Copper has a thermal coeffcicent of resistance, but ti is veyr small, so you should see very small changes. If you see changes on the order of 100's of ohms or higher, you have a bad pick up coil.

OR, just change the thing and be done with it. Cams don't get worse as the engine heats up, and you have tried enough good carbs to eleminate that problem. Heat induced probelems are almost always electrical related, and heat induced ignition problems on electronic ignitions are almost always the pick up coil, followed by the module.

GOPPA, I agree with most of what the guy has to say about electronic ignition parts and heat... I'm now retired from the industry, but I have over 30 years experience as an automotive technician. I was "heavily" certified in driveability issues.. This is the area where I disagree with him.. I NEVER just arbitrarily replace a suspected part before conducting a thorough inspection and diagnosis..

The following concerns only GM HEI units. Very, very seldom have I found a failed pickup coil.. And when I do find one that has failed, it's usually because one of the leads has broken.. The vacuum advance is constantly rotating the pickup coil back and forth.. Eventually, a lead will fail from the constant flexing.. The pickup coil is easy enough to check.. Disconnect the power led from the distributor. Remove the cap, rotor, and unplug the pickup coil from the module. Using an analog volt/ohm meter, dial it to the lowest AC voltage setting. A digital meter won't work for this test. Connect the test leads to the pickup coil plug.. Crank the engine over and watch the meter.. The precise voltage reading isn't important for this test, just the presence of a signal.. If the meter's needle doesn't deflect, the pickup coil is bad..

Before doing any of the above, When the engine dies, immediately pull any one of the sparkplug wires and using a suitable device and method, check for the presence of a spark when cranking over.. If you get a spark, the ignition components are all working as they should.. A possible fuel delivery problem is the culprit..

A quick check for sufficient fuel can be conducted without the need for any tools, nor a need for the engine to be running. Remove the air filter from the carb. While looking down the front throat of the carb, slowly open the throttle. You should see a squirt of fuel from the accelerator pump.. If you see a squirt of fuel, the fuel system is functioning.. This check is NOT all conclusive is that the carburetor can have the proper fuel level, but if the accelerator pump is not working, you won't get that squirt of fuel..

[chevyguyase]

see if you can restart the truck by spraying flammable carb cleaner down the carb throat. If it starts you know it's a fuel problem and not ignition. Be careful not to spray the engine, a bad plug wire or stray spark can ignite the spray.

[GOPAPA]

After reading all the reasons why my truck dies after driving a aproximately a mile both times (which only happened to me twice ) I now see that I needed to explain my truck dying better from reading all these helpful reasons why the motor does what it does.

The Truck did not just up and die ,,it died slowly and therefore allowed me to get some fifty to 100 ft before it quit all together and off the street...

In both cases I sit in the truck questioned my mind about it ! The first time I sit there trying to think what caused it for about 5 minutes or so .. The second time I maybe sit there 30 seconds because the first time I went back and took the gas cap off and put it back on..It gradually started up ..So this time I figured I knew what to do after maybe 30 seconds and took the cap off again and got back in the truck and after turning the key to start it ,, .(maybe 15-20 seconds)It started up,.

[MySons68C20]

Any luck diagnosing your problem?
Oh you got your post in right before me ha!

[GOPAPA]

[QUOTE=GOPAPA;9177463]After reading all the reasons why my truck dies after driving a aproximately a mile both times (which only happened to me twice ) I now see that I needed to explain my truck dying better from reading all these helpful reasons why the motor does what it does.

The Truck did not just up and die ,,it died slowly and therefore allowed me to get some fifty to 100 ft before it quit all together and off the street...

In both cases I sit in the truck questioned my mind about it ! The first time I sit there trying to think what caused it for about 5 minutes or so .. The second time I maybe sit there 30 seconds because the first time I went back and took the gas cap off and put it back on..It gradually started up ..So this time I figured I knew what to do after maybe 30 seconds and took the cap off again and got back in the truck and after turning the key to start it ,, .(maybe 15-20 seconds)It started up,

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by GOPAPA

After reading all the reasons why my truck dies after driving a aproximately a mile both times (which only happened to me twice ) I now see that I needed to explain my truck dying better from reading all these helpful reasons why the motor does what it does.

The Truck did not just up and die ,,it died slowly and therefore allowed me to get some fifty to 100 ft before it quit all together and off the street...

In both cases I sit in the truck questioned my mind about it ! The first time I sit there trying to think what caused it for about 5 minutes or so .. The second time I maybe sit there 30 seconds because the first time I went back and took the gas cap off and put it back on..It gradually started up ..So this time I figured I knew what to do after maybe 30 seconds and took the cap off again and got back in the truck and after turning the key to start it ,, .(maybe 15-20 seconds)It started up,

It takes Fuel, Oxygen (air), and Spark --- all occurring at the precise time, for an engine to run.. Oxygen (air) is introduced through mechanical motion of several internal engine components.. We can safely assume that all these internal parts are working properly because they are either "go" or "no go", not capable of failing and then repairing themselves.. This leaves fuel and spark.. One of these two is failing.. You have to determine which, and you have only a short window of opportunity to do this, as the engine will re-start after only a few minutes. I'm not trying to sound mean or snarky, but you don't have time to sit there contemplating. Jump out and get to checking....

Did this dying problem start immediately after the tank installation, or has the tank had lots of gas run through it and the problem has just arisen?? The tank has to be vented in some fashion. Air has to be able to come in and replace the volume of gasoline being pumped out. Either by plumbing into the factory vent system -- charcoal cannister and related tubing, or through a spill-proof and syphon-proof plumbing arrangement.

Remove the gas cap and drive the truck SEVERAL miles.. If it doesn't quit, you can safely say the tank, for whatever reason, isn't being vented.. If the truck continues to quit occasionally, it's safe to say you're losing ignition spark.. This is why I suggested you check for ignition spark immediately after the engine quits..

[GOPAPA]

[QUOTE=RustyPile;

Did this dying problem start immediately after the tank installation, or has the tank had lots of gas run through it and the problem has just arisen?? The tank has to be vented in some fashion. Air has to be able to come in and replace the volume of gasoline being pumped out. Either by plumbing into the factory vent system -- charcoal cannister and related tubing, or through a spill-proof and syphon-proof plumbing arrangement.

Remove the gas cap and drive the truck SEVERAL miles.. If it doesn't quit, you can safely say the tank, for whatever reason, isn't being vented.. If the truck continues to quit occasionally, it's safe to say you're losing ignition spark.. This is why I suggested you check for ignition spark immediately after the engine quits..[/QUOTE]


I have owned the truck over a year now and the tank came with it , never had this problem before when pulling my camp trailer or driving around places ,I do not want to drive it to test it as towing is around a $100 plus mileage so I will just start it and run it until it quits ( if it will) and have every thing set up with the hood open to do the test of spark off a plug ,, will need a helper maybe which in a week he might be able to help.. You did say pull a plug and test it , I might be able to do that alone ,,depends how much time it can be done in ,, might take me 5 minutes maybe less?? thx again

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by GOPAPA

I have owned the truck over a year now and the tank came with it , never had this problem before when pulling my camp trailer or driving around places ,I do not want to drive it to test it as towing is around a $100 plus mileage so I will just start it and run it until it quits ( if it will) and have every thing set up with the hood open to do the test of spark off a plug ,, will need a helper maybe which in a week he might be able to help.. You did say pull a plug and test it , I might be able to do that alone ,,depends how much time it can be done in ,, might take me 5 minutes maybe less?? thx again

No need to pull the spark plug, just remove the wire from one of the spark plugs. I use a device called a spark tester.. It vaguely resembles a spark plug in that it plugs into the end of the plug wire.. It has an alligator clip that allows attaching to a bracket or bolt head on the engine.. If you temporarily install a remote starter switch, you won't need a helper.. Just be sure the wires of the switch don't come in contact with hot exhaust parts. Towing??? Why would you need a tow?? So far, the engine has restarted after sitting several minutes.. Not only that, when test driving, stay in the neighborhood close to home and you shouldn't need a tow.. Otherwise, just park the truck as it's no longer dependable...

This is what I use. https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6589-Elec...35745454&psc=1

[Wrenchbender Ret]

Try driving with the cap off or loose. The tank vent system may be clogged & creating a vacuum in the tank preventing the pump from pulling the fuel.

George

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by Wrenchbender Ret

Try driving with the cap off or loose. The tank vent system may be clogged & creating a vacuum in the tank preventing the pump from pulling the fuel.

George

Even though the relocated tank was installed prior to him acquiring the truck, the dying issue has just started. Removing the cap and going for a test run is probably the #1 step in solving this, also it's the easiest. No tools or extra help is required.. I suggested he try that in post 19.. Others have also posted the suggestion.. The problem is GOPAPA is afraid of being stranded away from home and faced with a $100 plus towing charge..

[geezer#99]

I tried to get him to check his cap in post 6 just 2 days ago but it seems there are wiser people here than me.
Sorry, gotta go.
Bag draining time!

[GOPAPA]

A new gas cap and spark test plus fuel filter will be some of the ideas from the different posts I have gotten as feed back on here that I will do. I will be waiting for a guy I know to help me with finding what the problem is and what I did to fix it ,, The new Gas Cap that I ordered the 9th got here yesterday .. thank you for all the tips on how to prove out the problem .. I will share what it was that gave me the problem after I find it ,, thanks all