IFS & body questions for 51 panel

[51panel]

Just got 51 Chevy Panel 1/2 ton. Want to make it my daily driver. Body is in great shape, drive train won't keep up with traffic. Want to install IFS. Looking at TCI IFS. Will look at others just need to know where to go. Also have read here about getting donor 1/2 ton Chevy and use the parts for front end. Would like some input.
One big question is the alignment; if I put in donor front end or aftermarket IFS on, how easy is it to set camber, caster, and toe on initial build? I would take it down to alignment shop to do final setting. I can fabricate up almost anything (have a prototype / fixture CNC machine shop). Link to my shop www.paragonwixom.com .

I also have a donor 1980 El Camino with 305 & auto trans. Plan on using this drive train along with steering column, air cond., and rear end.
Any additional suggestions would be welcome.

One more item. Am thinking about taking body off frame to make it easy to install frontend, engine/trans & rear end. Looked at alot of manuals but can't find all attach points on panel. I know I could figure it out but would go alot quicker if I was pushed in right direction.


This is my 1st time building a ride. Thanks

[Don Meyer]

The 80 El Camino makes a great IFS. I've used it twice. You will need the heavy duty springs.....(f 41 ?). I trailer mine to have it aligned.

Don

[Phat]

Hey 51 panel. I have used TCI stuff and liked it but a word of caution when setting it up....toss the directions on install. Make sure you get the wheels centered in the wheel openings and try to build a bit more caster in when setting it up Something on the area of 5-6 degrees on power and 4-6 degrees on manual steering. I also like Bobs stuff at http://www.progressiveautomotive.com/ take a look he does nice work.
He has done a lot of them and is a preety nice guy to work with. The donor 1/2 ton is too wide. Looks pretty bad when done. You can fix it with cut a-frames or narrowing the crossmember but it screws up all the geometry.
DONT remove the body till you have the suspension peices at least mocked up so you can check the wheel placement nothing like getting a nice fresh truck done with the wheels in the wrong spot. If you have a good angle finder you can do about the same as a alingment shop. I just finished one up and the guy (my brother)laughed at me at the alignment shop. He said what the heck did you bring it here for it dead nuts for the spec you gave me. I like Don still have them checked.
Not much on your 1980 El Camino that would be worth cutting up unless the frame is gone is shot. I would sell it as they seem to bring good money. 305 is a bit small plus they had some cam troubles. Steering column needs a lot of work to clean it up as the swithes and wires are all out in the open and covers make them very bulky. The rear end is a 4 link with coils and if your going to use it like that its ok but its not very strong....It will work but there are better ones out there. Sounds like a nice project

[ccpanel]

check out what i did to mine-its camaro clip and so forth 120(legally in MT in 97, and so forth...
ask me questions...
http://customclassics.org
mark

[BBEEP]

I bought my TCI from Tims Hot Rods in Spokane Valley, WA. Power rack, sway bar, dropped spindles--$1707 shipped! I used to have AMC Pacer, which worked good and was VERY cheap. Until it came time to rebuild it. I plan to add another swaybar (the TCI tucks in from front towards the back under the a-arms so I can add another) I have 15x10's with 295/50's all the way around and a big block. It works very well. I could go underneath and snap a picture of my 48 GMC Panel if you like.
John

[51panel]

Thanks for the reply. You said 305 is not a good choice to drop in. Can you give me a good idea on what to put in it? Just want to make daily driver not fast street rod. Going to use for daily drive in and local deliverys. I don't want to under power it or mileage will be bad. Also what trans/rear end? Like I said the El Camino was just given to me. Will try to sell as it just to make room. Next choice would be to find _____? at junk yard for engine/trans/rear end. If I go this way what would I be looking for? Looked at progressive and will call Monday to talk to them. Thanks agian

[TooMany2count]

1st leave the body on the frame unless there's a REAL reason to remove it. ask Don if he's got pics of his suspension swap & if he says it'll work IT WILL(he's got some nice cars he's built), hell i've seen a few like his done myself w/o any problems & since u have it why not use it unless u got a couple grand to blow on the HIGH $$$$$$ stuff. also look at the other post in this section. one guy did use a late model fullsize truck suspension BUT had the control arms narrowed a tad to bring the tires in.

ain't nothing wrong w/a 305, just replace the cam(they're soft) & u'll be good to go. yes that are a little small, BUT hell i never heard any1 complain (well some folks will complain about ANYTHING) about 283's or 327's & they aint very big either but the can be built to up run. they put 305s in trucks & i have seen a few go over 250,000 w/just changing the cam out.
IF it was me i would use the front suspension, mtr/tranny combo, rearend & anything else off of i could. but then i'm a cheap sob. YES it has to be safe, but u can be CHEAPLY also......joe

[51panel]

Order of rebuild? Thanks for all the input. I am going to keep the 305 and rebuild with a new cam. Found a GM rear end with disc brakes that will slip under panel truck just right. Will use leaf springs in rear for now. Also talked with folks at progressive about IFS. The seem to be a great help, He did NOT try to sell me anything just wanted to answere my questions. I think they are my front end supplier. Nowthe big question.
What to do 1st? Do I fit motor & trans ready, put in rear end, put in IFS, ?? After reading replys I think body will stay on until front end is done (progressive confirmed TooMany2counts reply) on this item. Engine mounts are high on list also. So being a 1951 will a v8 slide in easy or will I need to rework firewall/floor? I know there will be some cutting but seems to me 305 is shorter than old 6. Is there a market for the old drivetrain? Thanks again for the replys. Better than thumbing thru a book

[TooMany2count]

suspension first (progressive is a great company) & then the mtr/trans, u may have to put a trans hump in the floor & yes there is a demand for those parts. its just they may sit 4 a while b4 ya sell them
my advice is to put them on The Stovebolt Page also cause there's a bunch of die-hard stock truck owners over there also.....joe

[Phat]

Bob at proggresive is a real nice guy .He will help with about any problem that shows up. I would start with the frontend after you decide wide height and tire size. Than hang the rear loose with out welding the perches till you get the weight in the truck for pinion angle(last thing to do before the test ride).After the motor and trans are hung you can now remove the body and flip the frame to finish weld if its easer for you....i know my back likes it a little better LOL. Hang on to your stock parts for about 6 months than toss em. I know i have a small pile of stuff thats been laying around to long. Most times i just end up giving it awayor tossing it in the scrap pile
Now are you talking just change the cam in the 305 or are you going to rebuild it? If its needs a rebuild ..forget it and go buy a nice brand new 350 crate from GM.I have used maybe 10-12 of them and they are cheap 350 long blocks and for 1275. and a 2 or 3 year warranty they cant be beat. I know the engine shop will quote you a price on machine work and than parts ...it looks like you can save maybe 500 bucks...dont be fooled when your done with pullin the motor out,tearing it apart. Than cleaning up the mess it just does not make cents or dollars
Now i would rebuild most any other motor except the 305 350 as they sell them just too cheap and they are very good now. Plus they are brandnew. The 283 307 and 327 were much better motors than the 305.
If your a good fab guy you can make all the mounts yourself in about 2 hours.(i have pixs if you need)
You will have plenty of room after you install a stang II to install about any motor you could want. i have used caddy olds pont BBC SBC i dont think there are many motors out there that you would have to cut the firewall. No cutting on anything body wise. maybe a hole for the shifter if you go floor shift.
Now go get er done

[51panel]

Yes, I was going to rebuild it. I thought about a crate motor but then add the heads(short block) /intake/exhaust/carb/brackets/ and that adds up to alot of time to find-buy-or fab up. Unless you are saying that I can get a complete motor rebuilt ready to run for $1200?

[Phat]

1275. is brandnew everthing NOT rebuilt Yep that includes heads to oil pan. You could use some of the 305 parts like the hei and brackets but i would use a new dampner and fuel pump. Ex manifolds will work. About anything off the 305 is a bolt on to the 350. Pretty good deal for new. Most times the crate motors are a 1 day deal to bolt assy on and install running the next day. Hey maybe sell the 305 running for 250 bucks or? and buy yourself a nice new intake and carb. Intakes are so cheap now its unreal. I bought a new performer last week for 89 bucks(new)
Good Luck

[51panel]

Ok, Where do I find something like this ? Located in Wixom, Michigan (current home of Ford-Lincoln til the move to Mexico) a 45 min drive to:
Detroit, Ponitiac,Lansing, Flint. I also use UFS freight lines and have a good discount program set up with them. Can unload from truck , I have a fork lift .

This sounds easier & less $$ .

[TooMany2count]

just call any Chevy dealer & ask the price of a 350 crate motor bout $1200 & up around here depending on how much HP u want...joe

[51panel]

Called 3 chevy dealers and got cost of $1900 for long block 350 with 290hp. Then went looking on google and did not find one under $1600. Can you send me dealer name or web address. Thanks

[Phat]

You cant call unless its one of the guys that advertize in the rod books (they protect there wholesale accounts unless you know them)the motor you got the price on is there performance 2 peice rear main new style motor # 12499529 i pay 1480 for those but sell them for 1850. You need #10067353 that one has the old style heads and made for 85 back.You will find them from 1250- 1375 depending on how many the dealer buys at a time.I see your in mich,thats were most of my motors come from. I will see if i have any names as mine come from a local dealer.
Unless you do bussiness with a dealer your not going to get the best price.
Online my friend in PA just bought one at www.applecheverolet.com He lives about 5 miles from them and he got his out the door for 1325. but does not buy much from them. I could have saved him 50 bucks but it would have been and 8 hour drive for him...not worth the trouble.

[51panel]

Leaded or Unleaded fuel ? Some of the crate motors I have seen are not to clear on this.

[51panel]

Found dealer with good $$$ on crate motor. Next big ? It seems to me that the smaller HP motor the better mileage. More HP without a lead foot would still suck down the gas. Is this true?

[Don Meyer]

Jegs is about as cheap as anyone for a 250 hp SBC.

Don